DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

    Hedgerows divide land right across Britain, including many back gardens, and they're home to a wide variety of wildlife making them a perfect place for outdoor photographers. A hedgerow will give you a huge shot collection of flowers, plants, insects, small mammals and birds from just one location. You just need to know where to look and when.   What Gear Should I Take? 

 

If you're on the hunt for insects and flowers take your macro lens along but if you want to photograph the many birds and small mammals that live in the hedgerow you'll need a telephoto or zoom lens so you can observe and take your photographs from a distance that won't scare them off.

A tripod or even a beanbag will give your arms a rest and stop you shaking the camera when you're working on those frame-filling shots. Use a remote release or if you don't have one make use of the self-timer as this will give you enough time to press the shutter and move away so your movement won't blur your shot. As it's dark and shadowy inside a hedgerow take a reflector out with you to add and direct light into the shot.

If you're going to be working on the ground it's worth taking a gardener's kneeling pad with you to keep your knees dry and a little comfier.

 

Capturing Shots Of Flowers

 

Whatever time of year you do your hedgerow flower photography, if you use your lens' minimum aperture to give your flower shots greater depth of field, remember this will slow your shutter speed down so watch out for camera shake.

 

Top Tips On Bird Photography 

 

If it's birds you're searching for wrens and thrushes are just two of the species you'll find nesting in the dense cover. This can make them hard to spot, but most birds prefer taller, mature hedges where there are plenty of trees around they can perch on so keep an eye out for areas like this. Also, spend enough time around these older, well-developed areas and you may even spot shy blue tits, owls and even bats if you're out late enough. Keep your ears open for bird song too as this will give away even the smallest of birds locations.

If your focus is a particular branch have your lens focused and exposure locked in place so when the bird lands you can quickly snap your shot. You may find continuous shooting's useful and keep an eye on your exposure as a bright sky and a dark subject can confuse the camera into thinking it needs to underexpose the shot.

Make sure you don't disturb any nests and don't trespass! Stick to public paths or better still, your own garden.

 

Shoot From A Bird's Eye View

If you live near a hill or can get to higher ground try photographing a group of fields. The patchwork of colour, particularly towards the summer with rapeseed, separated by rows of hedges makes a great looking photograph. Try doing a year-long hedgerow safari too as the flora and wildlife will continuously change so there'll be ample to photograph.

 

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Evoto has released an updated ecosystem brief presenting its products as a connected shoot-to-delivery workflow rather than separate editing apps. The structure links capture, culling, retouching, cloud sync, and publishing across multiple devices and product surfaces.

 

Key Takeaways

• Evoto’s ecosystem includes Desktop, Instant, Mobile, iPad, and Video products with role-based workflow handoff.
• Evoto Desktop v7.1.0 extends AI Lab (Smart Removal, People Removal, AI Scene) alongside Personalized AI Looks and Perfect Shot.
• The system is designed for photography teams that need repeatable editing quality across high-volume projects.
• Product messaging emphasizes automation for repetitive tasks while keeping final creative control with photographers and editors.

 

All-in-One AI Photo Editing Platform for 2026 Workflows

In the current positioning, Evoto Desktop remains the main post-production environment for large projects, while Evoto Instant is the delivery endpoint for online galleries and access-controlled sharing. Evoto Mobile and Evoto iPad support on-site and in-transit workflows, and Evoto Video extends finishing work into motion deliverables.

This ecosystem framing follows a pattern seen in current media coverage of imaging software: clear role assignment by device and stage, with less emphasis on broad AI claims and more emphasis on production continuity.

 

 

Seamless Workflow for Professional AI Photography

Evoto describes a five-stage operating flow:

1. Capture and ingest

Images enter through tethered shooting or import pathways, then are assigned to project-level structures.

2. Selection and grouping

AI-assisted culling helps flag technical rejects and organize similar frames for faster review.

3. Editing and consistency

Teams apply shared portrait and color logic in batch, while keeping the option for manual adjustments on individual frames.

4. Delivery and access

Approved outputs are routed into sharing workflows, including gallery-based distribution through Evoto Instant where enabled.

5. Video extension

Projects that require motion output can continue through Evoto Video for visual alignment with photo deliverables.

This sequence is aimed at reducing workflow breaks between tools, especially in event and school scenarios where deadlines are tight and image volume is high.

 

 

AI Culling and Retouching Tools for Pro Photographers

Across the suite, Evoto emphasizes AI as an assistant layer for repetitive operations:

• automated pre-sorting to reduce manual culling load
• batch-oriented portrait retouching and color handling
• consistency controls across multi-image sets
• optional cross-device continuation when projects move from desktop to delivery channels

Evoto also references recent Desktop-side feature evolution in v7.1.0 as part of the wider ecosystem value rather than isolated features. The Desktop draft aligns three feature groups:

1. AI Lab

A creative module for AI-assisted cleanup and scene composition workflows. The current AI Lab scope in this draft includes:

• Smart Removal: removes selected distractions with subject protection options in supported scenes.
• People Removal: detects and removes passersby or extra people in eligible images.
• AI Scene: supports subject cutout, background replacement, and layered foreground setup for controlled visual staging.

2. Personalized AI Looks

A style-training workflow that allows users to build reusable looks from their own edited image sets, then apply those looks across future      projects.

3. Perfect Shot

A group-photo workflow that helps replace expressions from adjacent images when subjects blink or miss gaze direction.

 

 

Real-Time Tethered Shooting and Delivery for Events

For event and location work, Evoto positions Mobile and iPad as practical companions to Desktop rather than replacements. The workflow message is: capture and review in the field, then consolidate in Desktop for volume editing, then publish through Instant for client-facing access.

The Instant layer is presented as a delivery workflow rather than only a gallery viewer, including project sharing paths, branding controls, and participant-oriented access options depending on setup.

This cross-product chain is particularly relevant for:

• school portrait operations
• event photographers handling rapid turnaround
• studio teams requiring collaborative post pipelines
• hybrid teams delivering both photo and short-form video outputs

 

Professional Photo Editing Ecosystem With Cloud Sync Features

Evoto describes cloud sync as the connective mechanism across products. In operational terms, this means teams can maintain a central project logic while switching execution context by device and task.

The company notes that not every feature is universally available in every context. Plan tier, region, hardware support, image format, and release channel can all affect capability access.

 

Who This Workflow Is For

Based on current product documentation and positioning language, the ecosystem is primarily targeted at:

• portrait professionals handling repeatable edits at scale
• studios with multi-editor throughput requirements
• photographers who need on-site review plus later desktop finishing
• teams that want a single ecosystem across capture, edit, and delivery

 

Availability

Official product channels:

• https://www.evoto.ai/ai-photo-editor
• https://instant.evoto.ai/
• https://www.evoto.ai/ipad
• https://www.evoto.ai/evoto-mobile
• https://video.evoto.ai/

 

About Evoto

Evoto is a software company that builds AI-assisted imaging tools for professional photographers, retouchers, and visual production teams. Its product line spans desktop editing, cloud gallery and delivery (Evoto Instant), mobile and tablet apps, and video finishing—designed so studios can move from capture through batch retouching to client delivery in one connected workflow. The team focuses on high-volume portrait and event use cases, with an emphasis on workflow speed, repeatable quality, and user-controlled creative decisions.

In 2026, user-review platforms Capterra and Software Advice recognized Evoto AI across multiple photo-editing and AI software categories, including ease of use, value, recommendation, and customer support. Profiles: https://www.capterra.com/p/10015499/Evoto-AI/ and https://www.softwareadvice.com/product/515822-Evoto-AI/.

More information is available at https://www.evoto.ai/

 

 

If you're a fan of black & white photography, with a twist of fine art and macro flower photography thrown in, you've come to the right article as we're teaching you how to get all Mapplethorpe at home with one flower and a few photography tools. 

  Light & Equipment 

The location for this shoot was a living room, making most of the light pouring through the window. Direct sunlight is too harsh for this work so the set up was placed away from the window. A macro lens is ideal for this subject and it's always a good idea to mount your camera on a tripod for stability. Use a remote release, if you have one, to fire the shutter and if your camera has it, the mirror lock-up facility can also help minimise any risk of camera shake.

 

Backgrounds

The background needs to be plain and a piece of black material will work fine. The examples shown here were shot against a black fleece draped over the back of a chair and some on black slate slabs which goes to show you really can use anything! 
 

Exposure & Focusing 

Focusing was done manually, which is always best for macro work when the lens can search for focus and aperture-priority was used, along with the exposure compensation facility to fine-tune the result. With a white lily against a black backdrop, the risk of poor exposure is quite high, so you may need to make minor adjustments as you go along. 
 

 

For the above shot, the lens was set to its smallest aperture (f/36) for maximum depth-of-field which gave a shutter speed of 2secs. All the pictures here were done at ISO200.

Next, the flowers were moved closer to the camera and the lens was opened to its maximum aperture to throw the closer flower out of focus.

 

Closer still, these shots focus on the flower's stamen, with the shot to the right excluding the black backdrop completely. Depth-of-field, when you’re this close to the subject, is minimal even at a small aperture, as the images to the right shot at f/36 shows.

 

 

Quite a few cameras have a multiple exposure feature which will allow two or more exposures to be captured on the same frame. To create the effect shown in the following shot you need to capture one exposure sharp and one totally defocused.

 

If photographing the flower straight-on doesn't produce the look you're trying to create, try laying it down on a plain surface. The flower in the following shot had to be held in place with a piece of tape to open up the petal.

Black & White

Most digital cameras, even modest compacts, have a monochrome mode, which offers a quick way to enjoy black & white photography. However, convenient though this mode is, the image file straight out of the camera can lack contrast and may need some work in your editing software if you’re going to get the most from it.

The shot on the left is the JPEG monochrome file straight out of the camera and it looks a little flat. The right image is the same shot but the Levels were tweaked in Photoshop which gives more intense blacks and brighter whites.

 

It’s worth remembering that if you’re shooting in JPEG format, images shot in the monochrome setting will record in black & white only and you can’t produce a colour image should you change your mind later. Shoot Raw and even though the camera monitor might show the mono result you have the full-colour file at your disposal. The best option, if your camera has it, is to shoot in Raw and fine quality JPEG at the same time. 
 

In-Camera Edits 

Many cameras have the option of letting you modify your shots using contrast filters (yellow, orange and red are the most popular), toning effects and Art Filters. Some of which can work well with this type of photography so it's worth experimenting with.

Used sparingly, toning monochrome images is a very effective technique and if your camera doesn't allow you to apply effects while shooting, you can always adjust your shots in image editing software.
 

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When you first think of transport photography you probably think of cars but trains, boats and planes are just as interesting and with the right planning, can be photographed. In this article, we list popular transport photography tutorials and offer a few tips on the gear you may want to consider using.

 

Photographing Cars - Gear Choices & Our Top Tutorials 

 

A standard lens is fine as you can move around the car to alter the angle and position. You'll also want to use a polarising filter to reduce reflections just remember shutter speeds will be slower so you may want to use a tripod.

• Five Ways To Take More Creative Shots Of Cars 
• How To Photograph Your Car Successfully 
• Tim Wallace's To Car Photography Tips

  Photographing Boats - Gear Choices & Our Top Tutorials 

 

A standard zoom of the 35-80mm range is fine, although you may prefer a longer lens 80-200mm if the boat is further away. Make sure you use a polarising filter to reduce reflections/deepen blue skies and pack a tripod but if you plan on taking your shots at the coast or will be walking along a canal for a lengthy period of time, a light-weight tripod that still offers good rigidity will be easier to carry, particularly after you've been walking for a while. 

• Everything You Need To Know About Boat Photography
• How To Take Good photos From A Boat
• More Boat Photography Tips 
   

Photographing Trains  - Gear Choices & Our Top Tutorials 

 

A lens with a focal length between 50mm and 100mm is ideal. Better still, use a zoom lens with a range that covers 28-105mm so you don't have to waste time changing lenses. For shots away from stations, use a tripod with a pan head to follow the train and on the platform use a monopod as they can get busy and you don't want to get in anyone's way.

• Steam Railway Photography Guide 

  Even More Top Transport Photography Tips 

 

If you want even more transport themed photography advice, we have 10 more top tips to help you take better photos of trains, planes, cars and other modes of transport.
 

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When you accidentally remove the RAW photos, they're not totally lost but still on your camera's SD card, not showing themselves. With the right RAW image recovery tools and a little patience, you can get them back.

Here's what you need to know: how RAW photo recovery actually works, what causes files to disappear, and the smartest ways to bring those photos back - no matter what camera or storage device you're using.

 

 

Can You Recover RAW Photos from a Camera

 

Yes. Most times, it is possible to retrieve RAW images from a camera - if the files have not been replaced by newer recordings. Recovery depends on whether fresh media has written over the original data.

Deleting a RAW image or wiping a memory card entirely does not erase it instantly. That space gets flagged as "available" - yet the photograph remains hidden underneath. Only once new data moves in does it truly disappear.

Data recovery software like EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard takes advantage of this. It scans your camera memory card (whether it's an SD card, CF card, whatever), then looks for the unique signatures of RAW files like CR2, NEF, or ARW. With some luck, it can pull those deleted photo pieces back together and let you recover them entirely.

 

Common Reasons People Lose RAW Photos

 

Knowing how you lost your photos makes recovery a lot easier. Here's what usually happens:

• Accidentally delete files sometimes right from the camera or on your computer.
• Formatting the memory card wipes out everything fast, whether it's a quick format or a full one. 
• If the SD card or its file system gets corrupted, it often becomes unreadable, appears as "RAW," and locks you out. 
• If you remove the camera card without safely ejecting it on a computer, it can easily mess things up.
• Cameras show errors like "Card not formatted" or "Cannot read card," and that's never a good sign. 
• Viruses or malware sometimes sneak in when you use the card on different devices.
• Suddenly powering down while taking or saving RAW photos just leaves you with incomplete files.

 

Common RAW Photo Format by Camera Brands

 

Different camera manufacturers use proprietary RAW formats. A reliable recovery method must support all major types.

Popular Camera Brands & Their RAW Formats

• Canon: CR2 / CR3
• Nikon: NEF
• Sony: ARW
• Fujifilm: RAF
• Panasonic: RW2
• Olympus: ORF
• Leica: DNG
• GoPro: GPR

Camera Types Covered

• DSLR cameras
• Mirrorless cameras
• Compact digital cameras
• Action cameras

RAW files are slightly more complex to recover, but modern tools can handle them effectively.

 

How to Recover RAW Images from Digital Cameras

 

When you accidentally lose RAW photos from your camera, don't panic. The best way to get them back is with a reliable data recovery program, and EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard is one of the top choices.

This professional RAW image recovery tool handles almost all RAW formats like CR2, NEF, ARW, RAF, and DNG. Whether you're using an SD card, microSD, or CF card, the software works across the board. It recovers files from formatted cards and even from corrupted (RAW) SD cards.

Follow these steps to recover deleted RAW photos from the camera:

Step 1. Open the camera, remove the memory card gently. Connect it to the computer using a compatible reader device. Wait for the system to recognize the storage unit before proceeding.

Step 2. Begin by opening the EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard. Once active, locate the storage device from the available drives. Choose the memory card shown in the menu. Proceed with initiating a scan. The process begins after selection is confirmed.

Step 3. As the scan runs - or once it finishes - narrow outcomes using file categories to locate your CR2, NEF, ARW, or any required RAW format. Focus shifts here naturally when sorting begins.

Step 4. Now preview the available files, picking only those pictures you need before starting recovery. To avoid complications, store them on a different drive instead of using the initial memory card again. A new location reduces risk - simple choice, a better outcome.

 

 

 

Alternative Ways to Restore Missing RAW Photos from Cameras

 

You don't always need professional camera recovery software to restore missing RAW photos from camera SD cards. Here are a few other options that sometimes do the trick:

 

Restore from Backup

If you're good about backing up your photos, you're in luck. Just check wherever you usually store your backups, maybe it's Google Drive, Google Photos, iCloud, Dropbox, an external drive, or a NAS. Restoring from a backup is by far the easiest way, as long as you actually made one before your photos disappeared.

 

Try Built-in Backup & Recovery Tools

Windows has File History, and Macs have Time Machine. If you set them up beforehand, you can pull lost files right from there. Just remember, these tools won't help if you never turn them on.

 

 

Deal with a RAW SD Card (After Recovery)

If your SD card suddenly shows up as RAW, save your files first. Use recovery software to grab your data, then go ahead and repair the SD card; something like CHKDSK can help on Windows.

 

Conclusion

 

Most photo recovery works best when you move fast, especially with RAW images straight from your camera. EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard handles such RAW formats well, making restoration smoother if you move fast after data loss.

To improve your chances of recovering lost RAW images:

• Immediately cease operation of the memory card or storage device.
• Use trusted recovery software.
• Keep regular backups.

If you follow these tips, you'll protect your photos and spend less time stressing over lost RAW images.

 

Camera RAW Photo Recovery FAQs

 

1. Can I recover RAW photos after formatting an SD card?

Recovered RAW images remain possible after formatting if new information has not overwritten the old ones. File structure links vanish during formatting; however, underlying data often stays intact initially. Tools that support deep scan may detect and rebuild lost photographs. Acting quickly increases the chances significantly.

 

2. Why does my SD card show as RAW?

A RAW SD card means the file system is corrupted or unrecognized by the operating system. This can happen due to improper ejection, a virus attack, or a sudden power failure. In this state, the card becomes inaccessible, but the data may still be recoverable. You should recover files first before attempting any repairs.

 

3. Can permanently deleted RAW photos be recovered?

Yes, even permanently deleted RAW photos can often be recovered using advanced data recovery software. These tools scan the storage device for leftover file signatures and reconstruct the files. However, if new data has overwritten the original files, recovery may not be possible. That's why immediate action is critical.

The AI platform trusted by over 100,000 photographers now delivers professional, style-consistent color grading across every clip - directly inside Adobe Premiere Pro or DaVinci Resolve.

 

Today, Imagen Video officially launches out of beta. Imagen, the AI-driven editing platform that has transformed post-production for photographers globally, announced the official launch of Imagen Video at NAB Show 2026. After exiting beta, Imagen Video now offers advanced AI color grading seamlessly integrated into Adobe Premiere Pro or DaVinci Resolve, enabling video editors to enjoy automated efficiency while maintaining full creative control. Attendees can experience Imagen Video live at Imagen's NAB booth, April 18-22.

Color grading has long been one of the most technically demanding and time-consuming stages of video post-production. For editors working across multiple cameras, varied lighting conditions, and tight delivery deadlines, achieving a consistent, professional look can consume hours of manual work per project. Imagen Video eliminates that grind.

By combining AI Profiles trained on professional color styles with full support for custom LUTs, Imagen Video analyzes each clip individually, adjusting for lighting shifts, white balance inconsistencies, skin tones, and camera sensor differences, delivering a consistent, polished baseline grade up to 10 times faster than manual correction, helping editors meet tight deadlines with ease.

 

 

Unlike generic color correction tools, Imagen Video adapts to each editor's individual creative signature. Editors can apply their own LUTs or choose from professionally designed AI Profiles, and Imagen's AI handles the clip-by-clip adjustments needed to keep that look consistent across an entire sequence, empowering editors to stay true to their vision regardless of camera or lighting changes.

"Color grading is where a project either comes together or falls apart. And for most editors, it's also where hours disappear. We didn't build Imagen Video to replace the editor's eye. We built it to handle everything that doesn't require one: the technical corrections, the clip-by-clip adjustments, the camera matching. Imagen Video is the co-pilot every editor deserves; it handles the technical work, so you can stay focused on the creative," said Yotam Gil, co-founder and CEO of Imagen. 

The results are already speaking for themselves. Tyler Hergott, an interior design videographer, put Imagen Video to a direct test against his own manual grade: 

"I sent the client three versions: one converted through Adobe, one with my own manual color grade, and one color-graded by Imagen. I didn't tell her which was which. The designer selected the Imagen-graded version," says Tyler, interior design videographer.

One of the most common and costly pain points for event, wedding, and documentary videographers is matching footage across multiple camera bodies. Even cameras from the same manufacturer can produce shots that look noticeably different when cut together. Imagen Video's AI automatically harmonizes footage across sensors, lenses, and ISO settings - delivering a unified sequence without requiring editors to leave Premiere Pro or DaVinci Resolve.

"I'll shoot interviews with two or three cameras - all Sony, using Sony glass - but they never match perfectly. It's really hard to get them to match when cutting back and forth. Imagen does it flawlessly. I can't see going back to my old way of doing things," says Joe, a non-profit and event videographer.

 

 

Imagen Video runs natively in Adobe Premiere Pro and DaVinci Resolve, so editors can stay in their existing workflow from first cut to final grade. There is no round-tripping, no file export, and no separate application to manage, ensuring a smooth transition that respects their established process and expertise.

Within Premiere Pro or DaVinci Resolve, editors can apply their own LUTs or select from AI Profiles trained on professional color styles. From there, Imagen handles the technical layer automatically: correcting white balance and matching footage across different camera sensors and lenses so that editors can focus on the creative grade rather than the corrective one.

Imagen Video is available now as a full release, with comprehensive support and training resources to help users maximize its features. Detailed pricing and plan information are available at imagen-ai.com. 

 

About Imagen

Imagen is the personal AI platform for professional photographers and videographers. The pioneer in AI-powered photo editing since 2020, Imagen helps over 100,000 photographers worldwide save time on editing, reduce costs, and deliver consistent, professional results at any scale. During beta, thousands of video editors graded hundreds of projects on Imagen Video, validating its performance across real-world workflows before today's full release. The platform serves studios, agencies, and independent professionals across weddings, events, schools, sports, and commercial photography and videography. For more information, visit imagen-ai.com.

If you want an interesting challenge, head out with your camera and search for numbers and letters or better still, objects that look like numbers and letters. You'll be impressed with how many you'll actually find and when they're put together they can make an interesting panel to hang on your wall. All you need is your camera, a good imagination and some decent weather!

 

What Can I Photograph?

If you're looking for ideas, a lighthouse can be used as a number one, chimneys can look like a number 11 and a traffic light can be a 3 or and E depending on the direction they're facing.

When we say photograph numbers/letters, you can take this literally or you could put your imagination to the test and look for them in places other people wouldn't think to look.

If you have a door number start with that then take a walk up your street and into your town snapping shop signs, adverts and road signs. Make sure you fill the frame with what you find and watch out for reflections and glare bouncing off shiny door numbers.

 

More Ideas 

When you're ready to give your grey cells a bit of a work out start looking for objects that look like numbers and letters. You may need to stand and imagine what the object looks like flipped the other way or crop into a part of it to get the number you're looking for but with a little work with your imagination, you'll soon be on your way. Make sure you take a quick look at what's surrounding your subject as a busy background won't make the number jump out of the frame. Try using a large aperture to throw the background out of focus leaving all attention on your object.

 

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A wonderful candid monochrome portrait, Two Old Boys from Daisymaye, is one that is well worth a closer look.

The image features two older gentlemen, both wearing caps and sunglasses, looking off into the distance in what feels like a quiet and natural moment between friends. The subject nearest to the camera is sharp and detailed, while his companion softens gently out of focus behind him, producing a fine sense of depth within the frame.

The monochrome treatment is a very fitting choice, removing all distraction and letting the mood, the detail, and the character of the scene come through with great clarity. It is a fine and thoughtful piece of candid photography.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

1. Gear Suggestions

Your normal kit is fine for many shots, but if you can't get close you will find that the telezoom might be worked harder than your wide-angle or standard zoom. Because the sky will almost certainly feature in your compositions, you should find room in the camera bag for a polariser. A warm-up would be handy too.

If you're taking shots inside a lighthouse there may not be room for a tripod, however, there should be plenty of room for a support outside it. Something light-weight will be easier to manage than a heavier model, especially when walking upstairs with it in or fastened to your bag. Talking of bags, as space could be tight, you want a bag that's easy to access and doesn't take up too much room. 

 

2. What Time Of Day Is Best? 

At this time of year, the light can be quite harsh and as most lighthouses are white (and red or black) the high contrast can be a real nightmare. On really bright sunny days, you might be best advised not to waste your time until the sun is shielded by some cloud or just waiting until later in the day. Obviously, much depends on how much time you have to hang around.

Lower, warmer light will undoubtedly give a more attractive end result and you and enhance that warmth with a warm-up filter while a polariser will enrich a blue sky. Late in the day and exposing for a brightly lit structure you might find that a saturated sky will result anyway so keep an eye on the preview image.

 

 

3. What Detail Will I Find? 

Zooming in with a telephoto and picking on detail is fun to do, although if you shooting externally you might find that there is precious little detail to enjoy apart from a few windows. If you are on a tour visit you have more opportunities – except that you might not have that much time and space because of being in a group. Shoot quickly in this instance and do your best to crop out fellow visitors.

Other techniques to try might be to shoot sections of the lighthouse for a 'joiner' image when you get home to the computer. You could also shoot a vertical panorama and merge the images during post-production. For a vertical stitch, you probably need to be further back with the telephoto to get a straight-on perspective rather than angling the camera upwards.
 

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The UK's coastline has many lighthouses which are worth a visit with your camera. Some are open to the public and are definitely worth exploring, but here we discuss using lighthouses within the wider landscape.

 

1. What Kit? 

Take your camera and all your usual lenses and you will not go far wrong. You may find a camera with a smaller body more useful as they can be often fit in jacket pockets or if you prefer to carry your gear in a bag, it'll take up less room leaving space for a flask of tea and your packed lunch! 

A tripod is needed if you intend getting there early or staying in late. Other than that, it is perfectly fine to shoot handheld. Filters are also definitely worth packing, especially the polariser that can be used to cut-down glare to enrich colours and saturate blue skies.

In terms of lenses, wide-angle and telephotos are equally valid. Wides let you use more of the foreground while telephotos let you pull in detail and are also excellent at putting the lighthouse within its environmental context.

 

 

2. Do Your Research 

If you're looking for lighthouses have a look at the Trinity House website for more information and locations close to you. Have a look at where other photographers have visited too, plus a quick online search will find you visitor information as well as GPS coordinates and directions quickly.

Use your feet! Walking around your subject is always advised and is especially effective with using lighthouses. That way you can put your subject into context of the beach or town that the lighthouse is situated.

 

 

3. Time Of Day & Weather

Many lighthouses are still in use so a good time to shoot them is at dawn or at dusk when there is colour in the sky and the lighthouse's lamp is on. Do remember the lamp will be considerably brighter than the whole scene and you can end up with a light that's overexposed if you don't meter correctly. 

At this time of day, there's not much light around so you will need the tripod and a remote release. If you set a sufficiently slow enough shutter speed you will get a complete rotation of the lamp.

Low light and stormy skies shouldn't be overlooked either, particularly if you can capture the waves crashing against the lighthouse or rocks nearby. 

Lighthouses look photogenic in most lighting situations, but bright sun can be tricky because of high contrast problems – white is a popular lighthouse colour. Bland white skies are also an issue for the same reason. Other than that, get shooting.

 

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Before you dig up the humble dandelion, have you ever thought about photographing it? If you haven't, here's a straightforward guide on how you can capture a rather fun and creative image of one without too much effort on your part. You can also create your own backdrops and swap them in and out for an extra level of creativity, too. 

All the photos show above are of the same dandelion taken from the same standing position with the stalk held at arm's length. The starting point was facing down with a green grass background and I then raised my arm towards the sky and took pictures at several positions on its journey.

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The Set-Up 

1. Pick a dandelion that has a full seed head.
2. Hold it at arm's length in your non-camera hand with it positioned in front of grass (you can use a tripod as this will free both hands, making adjustments easier).
3. With your camera manually set to close focus and held to your eye,  move the dandelion closer to the camera until it fills the frame and is in focus, then take a photo.
4. Adjust the exposure if the dandelion is too bright or too dark. If your camera is automatic take the photo when it's focused.

 

Experiment With Backgrounds

You can repeat the process but positioning the dandelion against different backgrounds. Each shot will look different and no doubt one will be preferred.

Here are just a few of the backgrounds you could use:

• Trees
• Blue sky
• Cloudy sky
• Coloured paper
• Textured walls
• Carpets
• Silhouetted against the sun

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

The right light is an interesting concept. I am a firm believer that there is no such thing as bad weather – only different types of lighting. I get annoyed at the number of articles that say you can only take creative landscape photographs in the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset. To me, that leaves a whole chunk of the day with a camera sitting unused in a bag!

 

It's Wet Out!

Certainly, though, certain subjects work better in particular lighting conditions and when the rain is hammering on my office window I'm fairly happy to be sitting in front of the computer rather than trying to capture landscape photographs! That said, I have been at the side of Buttermere in torrential rain and high winds and still managed to work with the conditions.

Mist and fog also create ideal light for pastel, almost painterly pictures, easily isolating foreground elements from the background; and while these conditions are certainly more prevalent early morning, they can happen at other times. Heavy snowfalls can also create monotoned, isolated elements, even resulting in pen-and-ink style pictures that are perfect for black and white.

 

 

The Sun's Out

When the sun does shine through, make the most of the textures, shadows and lighting angles; and even that doesn't always mean early or late in the day, I have a number of Lake District locations where the sun offers excellent graze lighting, really bringing out the textures of barn walls or dry-stone walls even in the middle of the day.

The best way to know where the sun works best in any location is to know the location well, and photograph it regularly; ideally even knowing which month offers the best elevation as well as the angle of the sun. If you're new to a location check on a map – remembering that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. Even Google maps can provide some help if there is a road anywhere near your chosen location. Computer-based maps can give a good idea of the terrain and are sometimes easier to realise the contours than a traditional map.

Certainly early and late in the day offers low lighting angles which can naturally create longer shadows, but to truly reap the benefits, you need to either have side-lighting or even be shooting into the sun.

By all means, plan some of your shots before you go out, but always be ready to adapt to the conditions - don't come back without any photos because the light wasn't exactly what you had planned, but adapt to the lighting that's there. Only by doing that will you train your eyes to see opportunities that otherwise would be so easy to miss.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Arkwright (Day 30- 'Frames').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 24

Watersports

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Day 25

'Mood' Theme

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Day 26

Interesting Horizons Theme

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Day 27

Public Gardens

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  Day 28

'Home' Theme

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Day 29

Bluebells

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

When it comes to picking a bag to carry your camera and other bits of kit around in, it can take a while to come to a final decision as there's plenty of top brands and styles to choose from. Some photographers will have a go-to bag for all occasions while others will choose to have a few different designs that have different uses.

To help you decide what camera bag is perfect for you, we've put together a few tips on what to look out for and we'll also be asking questions you'll probably be thinking about next time you're shopping for a camera bag.
 

1. What Type Of Photography Do You Enjoy?

By thinking about the above question, you should be able to narrow down your choices. For example, a landscape photographer will find a backpack style more appropriate than a shoulder bag but someone who travels on planes a lot may want a roller case they can use as hand luggage but will pack a smaller bag inside it which they can use when they arrive at their destination. 

  2. What Will You Be Carrying?

For the majority of shooters, it's important to keep the weight of your bag to a minimum, even more so if you're heading off on a long walk in a National Park. A Body and two or three good all-around lenses should be fine for most but if you do need to carry more, make sure there's plenty of dividers in your bag to keep your gear snug and safe. Look for pockets that are easy to access so you can quickly grab memory cards, spare batteries etc. and a tablet/laptop pocket is a feature more and more of us are needing in our camera bags, too. 

 

 

 

3. How Quickly Will You Need To Access Gear? 

A good camera bag will allow you to access your camera gear quickly and easily. If you're shooting in busy locations where you don't want to have your camera out around your neck constantly, such as in popular tourist locations or in towns and cities, a sling design may be better than a rucksack as they're easier to swing around to your front so you can access equipment without removing your bag. Shoulder bags can also be accessed easily while on the move but do take care not to overload this style of bag if carrying it on one shoulder.

 

 

 

4. What Features Should You Look Out For?

 

1. Comfort

No matter what your planned shoot for the day is, be it a long photo walk or a short trip to the local park, your camera bag needs to be comfortable as you don't want to injure yourself and if something's annoying you, it can distract you from your photography as well as irritate you. If possible, try your bag out before you buy it to test where straps sit etc. 

 

2. Material 

You want your bag to last so look for models made from hard-wearing fabrics and pay attention to how the bag is sealed. Waterproof covers can be very useful and many bags now come with them built-in. It's also important to pay attention to small details such as zippers as plastic ones can be less durable than those made from metal.

 

 

3. Internal Dividers 

Having a bag that allows you to customise the interior will give you more flexibility when it comes to the gear you carry and how you carry it. Some bags feature inserts that can be removed when not needed, giving the user a bag that reverts to everyday use which is useful when travelling on planes when weight is limited so taking two bags may not be an option. 

 

4. Protection

Your bag doesn't want too much padding so it's bulky but you do want to make sure there's enough to provide protection for your gear in the right places. Make sure you pay attention to the bottom of the bag to see if feet or a protective layer are provided. 

For more information on camera bags, take a look at ePHOTOzine's guide to camera bag types. 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to James124 (Day 16- Bridges).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 9

Stone Circles

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Day 10

Woodland

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Day 11

Creative Flare

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Day 12

Full-Length Portraits

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  Day 13

Stained Glass Windows

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Day 14

Garden Landscapes

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Day 15

Flowers

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

    Next time you're at a popular tourist spot, don't get annoyed by people in your landscape shot as when captured the right way, they can actually add interest, create a story and, more importantly, add a sense of scale to an image that will make the person viewing it go 'o, wow!'    1. Landscape With People Vs A Portrait Outdoors Bring a person or a group of people into your landscape shots and they suddenly get a different feel/look about them. But you have to be careful that it doesn't turn into an outdoor portrait where the person is the main focus of the image rather than part of the overall scene.   As you're not shooting an outdoor portrait you don't want to pose your subjects or better still, let them know you're taking their photograph at all. Make sure they're not bothered by you or your camera and are focused on whatever they're doing before you take your shot. For more tips on shooting candidly take a look at our article: Candid photography.

 

 

2. Create A Connection 

An empty shot of a forest or a mountainous landscape may be inspiring and pleasant to look at but if you add people to the shot the viewer can become more connected with the image as the person/people can help create more of a story. A sunset shot with a couple sat to one side of it will feel romantic while a rock climber scaling a cliff wall that's sat in your wide, landscape shot will create a totally different feeling.

 

 

3. Add Scale 

People can also help create a sense of scale within an image, for example, a backdrop of mountains suddenly turn into dominating structures that tower above two walkers or a lake stretches out for miles past a single man out fishing for the day.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

  A city or town offers a photographer a plethora of potential photographic subjects, making them a great location for an afternoon, morning or even a whole weekend of photography.

To give you some inspiration next time you're out in a city with your camera, we've put together a list of 16 top photographic subjects you can find in a city / town, plus links to top tutorials that'll help you perfect your shots of them. But first, let's take a look at some of the kit you may want to consider taking next time you're off for a photography walk around a city's streets.      What Gear Will I Need?

Of course, you're going to need a camera and this can be anything from a DSLR to a smaller compact. If you're planning on taking some shots after the sun has set you may want to consider carrying a support, particularly if you're going to be capturing light streaks. Do remember that some locations, such as cathedrals and stations, won't allow you to use a support so do take this into consideration when planning your day.

ND and polarising filters don't take up too much room and could come in useful as too would a variety of lenses if you're not planning on using a compact camera. Consider taking a wide, tele-zoom and macro lens along if you have room in your camera bag for them. When it comes to bag choices, everyone is different so the best advice we can give you is take a bag that's comfortable, will hold all the kit you'll need easily and that's easy to access. Sling style bags are popular in city locations due to how easy it is to access kit without having to remove the bag but an everyday backpack will be just as fine. 

What Should I Photograph? 

 

1. You Can't Ignore Architecture

Buildings, old and new, surround our streets so you can't really visit a city and not shoot some building-themed images. Click the link above for more tips on photographing architecture or visit the technique section to see the full list of architecture photography techniques we have on site. 

  2. Have A Go At Street Photography

A busy city can be the perfect location to experiment with street portraits, particularly as you can blend into the crowds and shoot from the hip to capture some interesting candids.

 

3. Photograph A Landmark 

Famous landmarks have just one problem – they're famous which means finding a shot of them which isn't already on a thousand other cameras can be difficult but that doesn't mean it's impossible. 

 

4. Get Up High 

One of the simplest ways to change the way your city image looks is to get up high. So climb a mountain, stand on some steps or use a lift to get to the top of a tower to give your images a different perspective. 

 

 

5. Capture Shots Of Traffic & Transport 

City streets are busy places with buses, cars, cyclists and more getting from A-to-B giving you ample opportunity to get creative with your transport shots. 

 

6. Get Creative And Add Some Light Trails To Your City Shots 

Did you wonder how people get car lights to streak through their images? Well click the above link to find the answers. 

 

7. Photograph A Church, Cathedral Or Other Place of Worship

These structures make great subjects for architectural shots but if the weather turns or you want a break from walking along the streets with your camera gear, the inside of these buildings is well worth capturing, too. 

 

8. Visit A Museum

Museums are not only educational and interesting, but they offer plenty of photographic opportunities. Plus, many are free to enter which is always a bonus! Have a look around the outside of the museums too for interesting architectural shots worth capturing. 

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9. Search For Interesting Architectural Patterns

Stop looking at buildings as whole structures and focus on the small pockets of interesting patterns and shapes they're made up of.

 

10. Capture Reflections In Buildings 

Thanks to modern architecture that favours glass and steel over bricks and mortar cities are full of reflections which give us an alternative way to photograph the places we live in.

 

11. Photograph A Station

There are few towns and cities that do not have a station and they are fantastic places to take pictures. Interesting architecture, people to capture candids of and close-ups of interesting detail are just some of the shots you can capture around these locations.

 

12. Look For Stairs And Steps 

Stairs may sound a little boring but if you start thinking about the materials they're made from and the shapes and styles that exist, you'll soon realise there's plenty of steps to keep you and your camera occupied.

 

13. Photograph A Bridge

Bridges come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, plus you can capture them from all angles making them a subject you can spend quite a while on. 

 

 

14. Spend Some Time By A Canal

Canals were once used to transport goods to towns and cities right across the UK and as a result, there are still plenty of waterways running through our city streets. The long canals, bridges and lock gates that once supplied goods now supply ample photography opportunities and as they all have public walkways, you're not going to upset anyone if you spend an hour two with your camera at the side of one.

 

15. Go For A Walk In A Town / City Park 

The green spaces found in towns and cities are a haven for many and are a great place to take your camera when you want a break from the busy streets. 

 

16. Capture Shots Of Shop Windows & Signs

Spend some time in your town and capture some interesting images of displays and signs. They'll be plenty of interesting signs, plus head back out at night and the shop fronts will have a completely different look to them. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Westcott has introduced the S18 Mini Flash, a compact and accessible flash for shooters at every level. Weighing just 100 grams, it packs 18Ws of output, a tilting head for bounce flash, and a built-in USB-C rechargeable battery into a pocket-sized package. Small enough to fit in your pocket but powerful enough to get the shot, the S18 is built for photographers who want better light without the hassle.

 

From Lumesca Group:

Westcott, a leading manufacturer of professional photography lighting equipment, announced the launch of the S18 Mini Flash, a compact flash designed to give photographers of all skill levels a simple, affordable way to take better photos when natural light isn’t enough.

The S18 combines a tilting flash head, 19-step manual power control, and a built-in USB-C rechargeable battery into a package that weighs just 100 g and measures 2.4 x 2.1 x 0.9 inches.

The S18 is designed to remove every barrier that keeps photographers from trying flash for the first time. The price, the size, the simplicity — all of it is intentional. We wanted to create something that delivers real results from the very first shot. –  Brandon Heiss, President of Westcott

 

More Light Where You Need It

The S18 delivers 18Ws of flash output with a Guide Number of 16 (ISO 100), producing significantly more light than the built-in flash found on most cameras. Paired with a native sync speed of 1/250s and recycle times ranging from 0.01 to 2.5 seconds, the S18 is ready for indoor portraits, street photography, events, and low-light scenes where available light falls short.

 

Bounce Flash or Direct Flash

The S18’s tilting flash head adjusts from -3° to 72°, giving photographers the option to bounce light off ceilings and walls for softer, more flattering results rather than pointing the flash directly at a subject. Multiple optical slave modes support multi-flash configurations for photographers ready to explore more advanced setups.

 

 

Built-In Battery with USB-C Charging

The S18 features an internal 3.7V 1250mAh lithium battery that delivers up to 500 full-power flashes per charge and recharges via USB-C in approximately 2.5 hours. The S18 also supports charging while in use, eliminating the need for disposable batteries and keeping photographers shooting through long events and sessions.

 

Easy to Control

Simple onboard manual controls and a clear display screen provide quick access to all flash settings. Power adjusts across 19 steps in a 7-stop range (3.0–9.0) with 0.3-stop increments, making it straightforward for beginners to learn flash fundamentals while giving more experienced photographers the precision they expect.

Ready to Shoot, Right Out of the Box

The S18 mounts to most Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fujifilm, Panasonic Lumix, Olympus, and Leica cameras via a universal single-pin hot shoe. The kit includes five colour gels (Diffusion, CTO, 1/2-CTO, Yellow, and Red), a travel case, and a USB charging cable.

 

Availability

The Westcott S18 Mini Flash is available through authorised Westcott retailers and at fjwestcott.com.

    1. What Time Of Day Is Best? 

Early morning or late evening light will highlight textures and warmth to the scene but don't overlook bright days either as strong shadows will make statues and other detail stand out from the walls.

If you wait for the sun to go down have a play around with long exposures and capture the light trails created by traffic as it passes you by. Most DSLRs will happily create shutter speeds of 30 seconds but if you want something a little longer you'll need to switch to the B (bulb) setting. 

If you do use Bulb mode, keep an eye on your battery life as you don't want it to drain before you've captured your shot. Do remember you'll need your tripod and a remote release is handy if you have one.

 

 

2. Should I Use A Wide-Angle Lens? 

If you're shooting on the bridge a wide-angle lens is great for getting interesting foreground detail in the shot. Just remember to use a small aperture so everything in the scene is in focus. A wide is also handy for when you what to shoot the bridge in its surroundings and don't have the space to move back with a telephoto lens. If you can get down to the base of the bridge a wide-angle lens will exaggerate the size of the part closest to you while the distant point of it will look like it's shrinking towards the vanishing point.

If you find you have too much sky and land dominating the landscape shots of your bridges crop in and create a panorama.

 

 

3. When Will A Telephoto Lens Be Useful? 

When you want to isolate detail pick up your telephoto lens. It's also useful for when you have strong lines to work with such as bridge supports.

 

4. What Else Can I Photograph On A Bridge? 

Bridges, particularly old ones, have interesting detail that's worth a shot or two. Signs, supports, nuts, bolts and even rust can make good images.

 

 

5. How Can I Use Bridges Creatively In My Shots? 

You can use the bridges that stretch over roads, canals and rivers to frame whatever landscape sits behind it. Just watch your exposure if you do this as it'll be darker under the bridge than it is on either side so bracket if you need to.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

1. Why Use A Frame? 

Frames are a great tool for drawing attention to an image. Be it a frame we hang on the wall, one we create on the computer, in-camera or with the elements in the scene we are photographing, frames are a very effective tool that all photographers can use.

 

2. Adding A Frame In-Camera 

Frames created while taking your shots will help lead the eye through the shot, add depth to images and help give a photo context. There's also the added bonus of using frames to hide objects you don't want to appear in the shot and they can make your images generally more interesting. They can also be used to give the viewer more information on the location you've taken the shot in. 

 

 

3. What Can Be Used As Frames? 

Windows and archways are obvious choices for frames but tree branches and leaves can also work well. Frames don't have to cover four sides either - one or two branches curving around part of the image can work just as well. It's also worth considering if you want the frame to be in focus or not. If you're at a party, why not use people as your frame to draw attention to a particular person or group? You can also use frames which are positioned towards the back of the shot to frame foreground interest, too. 
 

4. Frames Don't Always Work

There are times when creating a frame within your image won't add anything to the shot so do think about your composition and if you really do need a frame before hitting the shutter button. You don't want the frame to pull attention away from your main subject either so do make sure it's not too distracting. 

 

 

5. Creating A More Traditional Frame

More traditional style frames can be added during Post Production and ePHOTOzine has various tutorials on adding a variety of frame styles to shots in the technique section of the site.

There's also a third option and that's to add a frame to your image in-camera from one of the various creative filter options cameras offer. Apply built-in frames, use vignettes or why not combine multiple shots in one frame? 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition