DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

 

This step-by-step guide will give you a great basic introduction to the world of still life photography so if you're new to the subject, or are short on time, this could be the perfect place to start. 

 

1. Backgrounds

Keep it simple! Plain, crease-free backgrounds are a good place to start then you can always add a few extra bits of fabric or scarves, draping them over the background or table if necessary. White or coloured card/paper make good backgrounds or you could even use a plain wall. 
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2. Composition

Don't rush setting the scene, take your time to make sure it looks right, moving objects around until you can get the best composition you can. Think about it in terms of a triangle that are higher at one end and taper off. Use items that differ in size, colour and add different textures to your shot. Try moving your camera around too as just moving it a few inches to either side might make all the difference to the shot. Don't forget the photographic basics such as the rule of thirds, using negative space and guiding the eye.

You may find it easier to start out photographing just one object and avoid shiny items such as glass and metal to start as these can be trickier to capture. After a while, try introducing more items and as mentioned above, play around with different textures, colours and items to see what interesting set-ups you can create. Don't be afraid to experiment; just because plenty of other people photograph flowers etc. doesn't necessarily mean you have to.  
 

3. Support

A tripod is good - especially if you're using slower shutter speeds, however, it's not always an essential piece of kit. Having said that, putting a camera on a tripod does keep your hands free to adjust your set-up and to also control the light with a reflector. If you do use a tripod, don't forget to adjust its position from time-to-time. Lower it, raise it up and move it to one side just to see if you can capture a better shot. 

 

4. Lighting

If you want to keep things simple, just use one light. A studio light is fine but a high-powered standard energy-saving bulb in a lamp is great too as it produces a soft light.  Experiment with the position of your light as moving it just a little can add extra depth and interest to your shots. 

A tip that came from an ePHOTOzine member is to 'remove the lampshade, cut a hole in the side of a Pringles tube - imagine you're cutting doors in the tube – cut a T-shape and then fold back the 'doors' which help direct the light. Pop that over the top and you get nice directional light (cut a hole in the Pringles tube lid and attach that to the light fitting)'.

You can use a reflector (try making one out of foil if you don't own one) to bounce extra light into the shot if needs be.

If you don't want to use artificial light just set-up near a window and use a reflector to light the side of your subject the natural light doesn't reach. If you find the light's a little too strong you can use blinds as diffusers (so long as they're not coloured at this will create a colour cast) or simply pin a sheet up. 

  5. Focus

Stopping down the lens will increase the depth of field in your shot to get everything in focus but this may result in slower shutter speeds so have your tripod to hand. Take a few images with different focus points too. Invariably just one shot is fine but it's handy to have the others in case you want to combine the best bits from each. Ensure your images are sharp and as your subjects won't be moving or get bored, there's no real excuse for capturing blurry images. Take your time, check the set-up, check the frame and always check your shot on screen after you've captured it.    

 

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Lens manufacturer Meike has announced the release of the SE Series 85mm f/1.8 Mark II full-frame autofocus STM lens for Canon EF mount, priced at $229.99 USD.

The new lens improves on the earlier Mark I version with reduced chromatic aberration, faster autofocus, enhanced image quality, and a closer minimum focusing distance of 0.65m.

 

Meike SE Series 85mm f/1.8 Mark II Specs:

• Model: EF 85mmF1.8 STM SE II
• Focal Length: 85mm
• Format: Full Frame
• Aperture Range: F1.8–F16
• Filter Thread: 62mm
• Diaphragm Blades: 11
• Minimum Focus Distance: 0.65m
• Lens Construction: 11 elements in 7 groups
• Angle of View (Full Frame): Diagonal 27.8°, Horizontal 23.4°, Vertical 10.8°
• Angle of View (APS-C): Diagonal 18.67°, Horizontal 15.53°, Vertical 10.38°
• Weight: about 346g

For more information, visit the Meike website where the lens is now available to purchase.

 

  1. Do Your Research

Knowing what wildlife will appear where and when will save you time and stop you walking around for a shot you may never find. Knowing what they eat is also important as, for example, it can mean you end up capturing a shot of a Blackbird rather than a Blue Tit in your garden.

 

Make sure you know how your camera and any other gear you have out with you works before you're outside in your hide. It may sound like a daft statement but knowing how to quickly adjust a setting can make all the difference when you only have a few seconds to take a shot.

2. Feed The Birds

Winter can be hard work for wildlife as they have to work harder to find food sources, but this can make them slightly easier to track down. In nature reserves, look for places you can set up near hedgerows used for feeding and back home you can set up your own feeders to attract birds who are still around for the winter months. Don't just suddenly start feeding them then stop once you have your images though.

Shots of birds on feeders are good but for more natural-looking images try placing perches such as branches or even a spade near the feeder which they can land on before going for the food. You can also put nuts, berries, seeds and fat balls in holes and cracks in trees to attract them to land.
 

3. Be Patient And Ready

Animals and birds scare easy so don't think you can just head outside, get your camera out and start shooting. Nature reserves usually have hides dotted around you can use and when you're out in the field or in your own garden, set up a portable hide. Once your hide is up, be prepared to wait a while before any wildlife comes your way as it'll take them some time to realise you're not a threat. Although in nature reserves and parks where wildlife is more used to human contact you probably won't have to wait quite as long. Don't make any sudden movements and take some time to just look at the scene around you instead of getting your camera out straight away. By doing so your subject is more likely to return and you don't have to spend as much time out in the cold.

If you're working at home and have a window you can shoot from, set up inside and either shoot through the glass (make sure you're close up to the windowpane to cut down on reflections) or open up the window if you can. You can then stay warm with the heating on and still get the wildlife shots you're looking for.
 

4. Gear Choices 

Longer lenses (400mm is a good place to start) are generally a must, however, you can use slightly shorter lenses it just means you have to work harder at getting closer to your subject. When using longer lenses and sitting, waiting for long periods of time you don't want to be holding your camera so take your tripod out with you. If you're out walking a monopod is a worthwhile consideration as they're easier to manoeuvre, however, a tripod will work just fine if you don't own one. Of course, if you can remotely trigger your camera via your Smart Phone or other trigger devices, you won't need a lens that's quite as long. 

 

5. Be Quick

Wildlife doesn't hang around for long and some, such as hares, move quickly so quick shutter speeds are needed to freeze movement and to capture skittish behaviour. If your shutter speed is too low there's a chance your shot will have blur in it as they move quicker than you think, especially birds who quickly turn their heads into different positions. To get the quicker shutter speeds you'll most likely need to crank up the ISO but as most digital cameras now cope with ISOs up and beyond 800 without noise becoming too much of an issue, you shouldn't have any problems with doing that.

6. Backgrounds And Composition

No matter where you're shooting your wildlife shots you need to have a good look around the viewfinder to make sure there's nothing in the background that will distract the viewer. Throwing the background out of focus can look great, however, this can cause parts of your subject, particularly when working with small subjects such as birds, to also go out of focus. If this happens try using a slightly smaller aperture as getting the subject sharp is what's more important.

You may have to work quickly but this doesn't mean you should forget about composition altogether. Do give your subject space and try not to capture them when looking out of frame as your viewer will follow their gaze and move their eyes out of shot. Do shoot while they're in different positions too as you may find a side profile shot works much better than one where they are head-on, for example.
 

7. Be At Their Angle

A low position gets you down to the animal's level and can help avoid messy backgrounds. Out in the field, this could mean laying on the ground to get a shot of a squirrel foresting for food and in your garden, you could end up placing feeders lower than you first thought so your lens lines up with them more easily.
 

 

 

8. Shoot When It Snow

Not that many places in the UK have had much snow as of yet but when a bit of the white stuff does fall it gives photographers the chance to shoot against clutter-free backgrounds that really create the essence of winter. Snow also gives you the chance to find tracks wildlife have left so find a well-trodden path and set up nearby. Dawn and dusk are good times to be out but do wrap up warm and take a head torch with you so you can see what you're doing. Pay attention to where the wind is blowing too as wildlife are good at picking up scents.

Do be aware that snow can confuse your camera and you can end up with shots that are underexposed. Keep checking your histogram to make sure the exposure's OK and use exposure compensation if needs be to brighten your shot.

9. Popular Areas

There are places in the UK and right around the world that are more popular than others for wildlife photography. There's nothing wrong with visiting these popular places but please respect the wildlife and don't overcrowd them. You may also want to spend some time finding places you can shoot in closer to home as not only do they stand the chance of not being as popular, you don't have as far to travel which means you can spend longer brushing up on your technique rather than travelling.

 

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Photo by Joshua Waller

 

The nights are still rather long at the moment in the UK and with the sun setting so early, now's the perfect time to try your hand at night photography as you don't have to be out that late to capture some cracking images. Plus, if you time it with rush-hour, you can use long exposures to shoot some cracking light trails. 

 

1. Get The Right Accessories

As we are dealing with longer shutter speeds, a tripod is an essential piece of equipment if we want our images to be sharp. Do remember that traffic can cause a small amount of movement and don't forget to turn off the image stabilisation function as when using longer exposure times and a tripod, this function can actually cause shake which will result in a blurry image. A cable or wireless (IR) remote is useful but you can also use your camera's self-timer to start the exposure to reduce shake.
 

2. Camera & Lens Options 

The type of camera you use isn't all that important as it's your own creativity that'll create a good image. However, a DSLR or other type of camera that offers manual control will make the task easier. The type of lenses you use for night photography will change depending on what you want to capture. If you like pictures of street views, use a wide-angle lens, however, if you want to focus on just parts/details of the street use a zoom lens between 28 - 200mm. Having said that, you'll probably find a wide-angle lens to be most useful. 
 

3. Metering & Exposure Time Tips 

Exposure times aren't set in stone and it's worth trying different shutters speeds. Shooting with spot metering can help exposure levels and I find working in manual tends to produce better results. If you have the time, photograph the same scene with various exposure times and look through them to see which has produced the best results. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

4. Composition Is Key

Consider changing to a portrait orientation to help exaggerate the height of buildings and do take your time when composing your shots at night as it can be harder to see small details through the viewfinder due to the lower light levels. 

 

5. Panning With Traffic 

Traffic is a popular subject at night as it gives photographers the chance to be particularly creative when combined with a bit of panning. When panning, try to follow the subject with your camera/eye then hit the shutter button in the middle of the pan and continue the smooth movement through to the other side. It's similar to swinging a baseball bat, hitting the ball at the middle of the swing and following through.

Although you can pan hand-held a tripod can be very useful when panning at night as the low light levels mean you can experiment with slower shutter speeds. If you want a little more of the shot to be sharp you can add a 'pop' of flash to freeze the movement of your subject.

   

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Top Gear and Preparation Tips for Starting Out in Travel Photography

 

 

Embarking on a journey into travel photography is more than just taking pictures in exotic locations—it's about capturing stories, understanding cultures, and being equipped with the right tools and mindset. When exploring vibrant markets, remote landscapes, and bustling cities, having the best gear for travel photography and being well-prepared can significantly impact your results.

In this guide, we'll cover essential travel photography gear, practical tips for beginners, and tricks to maintain your equipment while on the move.

 

 

Explore DepositPhotos for licensed travel photos for your creative projects

 

How to prepare for a travel photography job as a beginner creator

 

Landing your first travel photography job can be both exciting and overwhelming. The key lies in preparation, consistency, and adaptability.

 

Research your destination

Before heading to popular travel photography hotspots, learn about the local culture, climate, and accessibility. Understand the best times for natural lighting and golden hour shots, and what locations might be sensitive to photography.

Consider these aspects:

• Seasonal light patterns' impact on landscapes;
• Local festivals showcasing vibrant traditions;
• Off-the-beaten-path locations for authentic storytelling;
• Cultural taboos to respect while photographing people;
• Optimal times for capturing iconic landmarks;
• Local markets and their unique visual elements.

 

Build a shot list

A shot list will guide your creative process and show professionalism, especially if you're handling commissioned travel photography jobs. Consider these categories to enhance your visual storytelling:

• Dawn patrol. Early morning cityscapes;
• Local artisans. Traditional craftsmanship;
• Hidden gems. Lesser-known locations;
• Night scenes. Vibrant after-dark moments;
• Architectural contrasts. Old meets new;
• Cultural rituals. Unique local traditions;
• Street food. Culinary experiences.

A well-planned list serves as your visual roadmap, ensuring you capture key moments while allocating time for spontaneity.

 

Check your legal and logistical needs

Ensure you have travel documents, photography permits, and insurance coverage for health and travel photography gear. Investigate permit requirements for protected areas and landmarks. Secure necessary visas, especially for commercial work. Familiarize yourself with local photography laws and cultural sensitivities. Consider these crucial aspects:

• Research drone regulations and no-fly zones;
• Obtain model releases for portrait subjects;
• Respect copyright laws for artwork and performances;
• Review customs regulations for equipment transport;
• Understand privacy laws in public spaces;
• Check restrictions on tripod use in crowded areas;
• Be aware of photography bans in religious sites.

 

 

The best gear for travel photography

 

Choosing the best gear for travel photography means balancing performance, durability, and portability. Here's a breakdown of what you should consider packing as a beginner:

 

Best cameras for travel photography

Compact mirrorless cameras are now a top choice among professional and beginner photographers. They offer compact size without sacrificing professional features. Here are a few standout options:

1. Fujifilm X-T5. Lightweight with excellent image quality and film simulation features.
2. Sony Alpha a7 IV. A full-frame powerhouse with advanced autofocus and video capabilities.
3. Canon EOS R8. A strong entry-level full-frame option for high-resolution travel shots.

These are among the best cameras for travel photography because they offer superior image quality while remaining compact enough for daily travel.

 

Versatile lenses

For beginners, a versatile 24–70 mm f/2.8 zoom covers everything from wide-angle vistas to portraits, while a fast 35 mm f/1.8 prime excels in low-light and street scenes. As your skills (and itinerary) expand, build a travel-ready lens kit that balances scope and portability: a 16–35 mm wide-angle for landscapes and architecture, the trusty 24–70 mm for everyday flexibility, and a 70–200 mm telephoto zoom to bring distant wildlife or compressed cityscapes closer.

To round out your creative arsenal, you might also pack:

• Ultra-wide fisheye—dramatic, curving distortions for unique perspectives;
• Macro lens—crisp, close-up detail of flora, food, or textures;
• Tilt-shift lens—perspective correction and miniature effects in urban settings;
• Fast prime—wide aperture for atmospheric, low-light street shots;
• All-in-one zoom (18–300 mm)—space-saving versatility when you can carry only one lens.

 

Accessories to enhance workflow

Enhance your travel photography workflow with these essential accessories:

• Versatile camera bag. Protect gear and organize efficiently;
• Lightweight tripod. Ensure stability for sharp images;
• High-capacity memory cards. Capture more without interruption;
• Spare batteries. Extend shooting time in remote locations;
• Portable hard drive. Backup photos securely on-the-go;
• Remote shutter release. Minimize camera shake for crisp shots;
• Polarizing filter. Reduce glare and enhance colors;
• Cleaning kit. Maintain equipment for optimal performance.

 

 

How to take care of your travel photography gear during trips

 

Protecting your investment in travel photography gear is essential, especially when facing varied climates and rugged terrains.

 

Weatherproof your equipment

Protect your gear from the elements with quality rain covers and dust-proof cases. While weather-sealed cameras like the Canon 5D Mark IV offer protection, caution is still necessary. Consider these tips:

• Use silica gel packets to combat humidity;
• Wrap gear in microfiber cloths for added protection;
• Acclimate equipment gradually in temperature extremes;
• Keep spare dry bags for sudden weather changes;
• Invest in waterproof camera straps for added security.

 

Routine cleaning

Maintaining your travel photography gear requires a consistent cleaning routine. Implement these techniques for optimal performance:

• Use microfiber cloths to gently remove smudges from lenses;
• Dislodge dust from sensors with a rocket blower;
• Clean camera bodies carefully, avoiding buttons;
• Apply lens cleaner sparingly for stubborn marks;
• Inspect and clean lens contacts for reliable connections.

 

Smart packing and transport

Invest in a padded camera bag to shield your gear from impacts. Always carry essential equipment as hand luggage when flying. Avoid exposing gear to extreme temperatures and use hotel safes for secure storage during exploration.

 

Conclusion

Starting a career or hobby in travel photography demands more than a love for travel and visuals—it requires the right gear, thoughtful preparation, and ongoing care. From choosing the best cameras for travel photography to discovering new travel photography hotspots, every step of your journey adds to your visual storytelling toolbox. As you land more travel photography jobs, this article's foundational habits will continue to support your success.

 

 

The low position of the sun in winter makes it a perfect time to shoot silhouettes. You just need to find a bright background (the sky's perfect) and the right subject to give you a shot with series impact.

 

1. Pick A Subject

As there are no textures or tones to grab people's attention strong subjects that are instantly recognisable work the best. In winter, wildlife (deer in particular) work well. Even more so if you're shooting on a cold morning when the breath can be seen in the air. The bare, skeletal-like trees that cover our landscape at this time of year also work well as subjects for winter silhouettes. Higher up, turn rolling hillsides into dark shapes that curve across your shot. Fog can help add interest and contrast to the shot and exposing for the lighter, foggy parts of the shot will give you the silhouetted hillsides you're looking for.
 

2. Adjust Your Exposure

You need a bright background for this technique to work and the sky, particularly when there's a colourful sunrise, works particularly well. You can also use a large expanse of water if you live near a lake or the coast too.

To create a silhouette, expose for the brighter background rather than your subject as by doing so your subject will underexpose, appearing very dark if not fully black. Using the spot or centre-weight light measurement modes on your camera should give you the results you're looking for or you can use exposure compensation and select -1 or -2 to deliberately underexpose your shot.

If you're using a compact camera simply point the camera at the brightest part of the scene you're photographing, press the shutter half way down and don't let go of it. Next, re-frame the shot then press the shutter button the rest of the way to take your shot. This should fool the camera into giving you the exposure you want, but you may have to try exposing from different parts of the image to create the silhouette you're looking for.

3. Focusing Tips

You might want to meter from your background, but you don't want this to be your main point of focus. So, to ensure your main subject is sharp, use a smaller aperture to maximise depth of field. You can also try pre-focusing your shot before you set your exposure or switch to manual focus. If you're using a compact camera try using Landscape mode as this will let the camera know you want to use a small aperture so your shot has front to back sharpness.

 

4. The Sun's Position

Try to position your subject in front of the sun when you're framing up as you should never look through the camera directly at the sun as you can permanently damage your eyes. If you want the sun to be in frame, use the Live View feature so you can frame up safely.

  5. Turn Flash Off

If your flash is set to go off automatically make sure you switch it off otherwise it'll light up your subject and you won't get the silhouette you're looking for.

 

6. Framing Advice 

Don't think you have to fill your frame with your subject as a little space around them will leave room for the brighter, colourful background to show, giving your shot more interest and impact. This is where a wider lens comes in handy as you'll be able to get more of your background in shot. Of course, getting close to a shy animal with a wide-angle lens is easier said than done but you could try putting your camera on a tripod and use a remote release to fire the shutter button. Just remember to focus the camera on a fixed spot before you go into hiding. Having said that, if you're using a long telephoto lens to capture your winter wildlife from a distance you should still have plenty of room around your subject for the lighter background anyway.

If you were given a camera as a gift at Christmas or have just decided to treat yourself so you can learn a new skill, you're probably wondering where to start with your new kit. One of the best ways to improve and learn how to use your new camera is to actually get out and use it but we thought it would also be helpful to have a page where photography beginners can find all of our introductory tutorials in one place. So, below you'll find all our beginner photography tutorials written to-date but do also keep an eye on our techniques and features sections as new tutorials are added regularly. 

 

Learn what basic camera settings can help you freeze movement. 

  Digital Camera Settings 

• The Absolute Beginner Guide To Camera Preset Shooting Modes
• What Are Drive Modes?
• Beginner's Guide To Geotagging
• Beginner's Guide To White Balance Mode
• Introduction To Metering Modes
• Quick Beginner Tips About Focus Lock
• Digital Zoom: A Beginner's Guide

 

Learn the basics of aperture. 

  Understanding Exposure

• Creative Aperture / Depth Of Field
• Beginner's Tips: How To Make A Manual Exposure
• Beginner's Introduction To Depth Of Field
• Beginner's Tips: Shutters and Apertures Anyone?
• Beginner's Tips: How To Use ISO
• Beginner's Guide To DSLR Photography: Creative Apertures

 

 

  Taking The Shot

• Essential Beginner Photography Tips: Think About Your Focus
• Creative Children Portraits On A Budget
• Panoramas For Beginners
• Beginner's Tips - How To Capture Motion In Your Images
• How To Make Sure Your Subject Is The Main Point Of Interest
• 5 Tips For Someone New To Portrait Photography
• Beginner's Guide To Sunrise Photography
• Ten Top Tips To Teach Photography Newbies
• Beginner Wildlife Photography Tips
• Beginner Street Photography Tips
• Beginner's Guide On Photographing Children
• Beginner's Guide To Photo Composition
• Understanding Lenses And Focal Lengths

 

 

Seasonal Tutorials 

• Snow Photography Tips For Beginners
• Beginner's Tips For Christmas Photography
• Tips On Using Your Compact Camera At Christmas

 

Learn the basics of lighting objects.

Basic Lighting Tips

• Beginner's Guide to Light Part One
• Beginner's Guide To Light - Part Two
• Beginner's Introduction To Built-In Flash

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

ePHOTOzine is delighted to confirm that Samsung will once again support the much-loved Photo of the Week award, celebrating an impressive 11th year of this successful partnership.

Thanks to Samsung’s ongoing commitment, this long-standing collaboration continues to recognise outstanding photography, shining a light on creativity, technical excellence and artistic flair across our community. We’re excited to welcome another year filled with inspiring images.

Samsung continues to inspire the world and shape the future through innovative ideas and cutting-edge technology, and ePHOTOzine is proud to welcome the global electronics brand back as supporter of our prestigious Photo of the Week accolade for the eleventh consecutive year.

We’re pleased to announce that throughout 2026, Samsung will once again reward our Photo of the Week (POTW) winners with its reliable, high-performance memory products. Each weekly winner will receive a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD Adapter, providing fast, dependable storage suitable for a wide range of devices.

The Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card, complete with a full-size SD adapter, is ideal for use with cameras, laptops and more. Compatible with Android smartphones, tablets, action cameras, drones and gaming consoles, PRO Plus is designed to help you capture more, faster and without compromise. With impressive U3, Class 10 read/write speeds of up to 180/130MB/s, transferring and storing large volumes of images is seamless. UHS-I, V30 support ensures smooth 4K video recording, while six-proof protection guards against water, extreme temperatures, X-rays, magnets, drops and wear. The card is backed by a 10-year limited warranty. Further details are available on the Samsung website.

Photo of the Week is selected every week by the ePHOTOzine team. To be in with a chance of winning, simply upload your images to the Gallery.

All 52 weekly winners will then have their images showcased in our POTW forum. In January 2027, the community will be invited to vote by hitting the ‘like’ button on their favourite shots. The ePHOTOzine team will tally the votes and crown the overall Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the top prize: a rugged, ultra-fast 1TB Samsung Portable SSD T7 Shield.

Best of luck to everyone taking part, we look forward to seeing the diverse and inspiring images submitted by our community of photographers each week. Our sincere thanks go to Samsung for its continued and valued support.

 

 

“Photo North festival has something magical - this may sound like a cliche but it's different to other photography festivals. There is an atmosphere of equality, informality and mutual support and of course, a great programme of exhibitions and talks.” Visitor

 

Credit: Anne Worthington/Photo North Festival

From the series, Young Skins

 

Photo North Festival is back.

 

World renowned and emerging artists prepare to exhibit at Photo North Festival #7 13-15 March 2026 The Carriageworks Theatre, Millennium Square, Leeds UK.

 

As the winter ebbs away, the photography industry prepares to shine on the historically proud and culturally vibrant city of Leeds for the seventh edition of Photo North Festival.

Exhibitions by legends of the profession will be on display alongside up and coming photographers against a backdrop of talks, competitions, portfolio reviews, workshops, networking, screenings, book singings, food & drink and more…

 

EXHIBITIONS AND ARTISTS HIGHLIGHTS

 

The Leeds International African Arts Festival (LIAAF)

Guest curators LIAAF are bringing their vibrant celebration of African photography to the festival with an exhibition themed Earthwise- An Exhibition of Creativity, Community Reflections and Renewal, featuring multiple photographic artists including Arteh Odjidja, Tobi Dosumu and Ruth Agbolade.

 

Credit: Soulla Petrou/Photo North Festival

Sophie Ellis-Bextor

 

REWIND by Soulla Petrou

Rewind is a photobook by award-winning photographer Soulla Petrou, showcasing 15 years of work in the UK music scene from 1994 to 2009. Shot mainly on film, it captures the raw energy of a defining era in club and youth culture. ?? images will be exhibited from the book including a pre-famous Gerri Halliwel, Sophie Ellis-Bextor and Damon Albarn.

 

Jaywick Sands Happy Club by David J Shaw

Jaywick, Essex, is a village that sits within the constituency of the leader of Reform UK MP Nigel Farage, and will be heavily affected by climate change-related sea level rise. The village has an infamous reputation as ‘Britain’s most deprived area’ with many journalists and YouTuber content creators regularly coming to the village to continue this portrayal.  Made closely with the people the images represent, Jaywick Sands Happy Club aims to reframe the narrative of the village by providing a balanced view of a community in the UK that faces challenges that are echoed internationally.

 

This is Also Motherhood by Carolyn Mendelsohn and the Maternal Mental Health Alliance

Portraits of Mental Health, Strength and Survival. This exhibition reveals the often-hidden realities of motherhood and maternal mental health through portrait photography, still life, and audio. Created by artist Carolyn Mendelsohn in collaboration with 10 women with lived experience. It invites us to look, listen and understand.

 

Credit: Joanne Coates/Photo North Festival

From the series, Greenvoe and the Anti-Idyll

 

Greenvoe and the Anti-Idyll by Joanne Coates

This body of work draws deeply from the poetic vision of George Mackay Brown, particularly his novel Greenvoe, exploring the enduring tensions between progress and preservation in rural island life. Through photography, Coates explores the changing landscapes of Orkney—both physical and cultural—by leaning into the notion of the anti-idyll: the disruption of the pastoral dream and the confrontation with modernity on the margins.

Gurushots global community will host their Art of Photography and Street Photographer of the Year photo-challenge winners. 

 

Smoke and Mirrors by Seamus Murphy

Smoke and Mirrors is a powerful photographic exhibition by award-winning photojournalist Seamus Murphy, featuring an extended photo essay centred on the West Bank city of Nablus. Captured over two periods of time, the first in 2004 during the second intifada while working on the acclaimed Palestinian feature film Paradise Now. This commission allowed Murphy to explore how the carefully staged scenes on the film set often echoed the real-life drama and rituals playing out on the streets of Nablus. The second are photographs from spring 2025, connected by stories from 2004  which reflect on the ongoing realities of occupation and the strength and endurance of the Palestinian people. 

 

Credit: Mike Goldwater/Photo North festival

Tombstoning from Ramsgate east pier. From the series, ISLAND

 

ISLAND by Mike Goldwater

ISLAND is a documentary project about the Isle of Thanet, at the eastern tip of Kent. Thanet, once an island cut off from the mainland by the River Wantsum, is a place of deep history, rich ecologies and shifting human tides. The photographs pay tribute to the beauty, challenge and unique character of this special place. The photographs for ISLAND were taken between 2019 and 2024.

 

Ian Parry Photojournalism Grant

A presentation of work by the 2025 recipient of the Ian Parry Grant, Omar Ashtawy, who is living and working in Gaza. The Ian Parry Photojournalism Grant supports young and emerging photographers as they embark on their career.

 

FOUNDERS

 

Festival co-founder & curator, Peter Dench, says: ‘We recognise people are passionate about photography. Photo North Festival aims to introduce or advance understanding of the medium through our programme of exhibitions - to inspire and engage debate. We have one perfect venue, with headline events and renowned photographers confirmed and the list is growing. The creativity in planning the festival format, talks and screenings is something unique to offer people in the north of England and beyond.’

Sharon Price, co-founder & curator, says: ‘We’ve chosen thought-provoking works that provide relevant social commentary on some quite hard-hitting issues. We also have the beautiful and the poignant, that will appeal not only to enthusiasts seeking to be challenged, but also to those seeking a feast for the senses.’ 

Sharon and Peter have secured the sensational line up to deliver a thought-provoking, lively and inclusive festival that will appeal to the professional photographer, photo-enthusiast, keen amateur and anyone who wishes to engage with the timeless appeal of the medium.

Once again, Photo North Festival promises to be one of the most exciting and engaging European photo events.

13-15 March 2026 -  The Carriageworks Theatre, Millennium Square, Leeds UK.

 For more information about the Photo North Festival, please visit the event website.

    During the winter months, the sun's low and the sunrise isn't quite as early so you can venture out a little later if you wish. Your local news channel or a quick search online will give you the time of the sunrise. You can just stay in one place, shooting a particular view or scene but taking the time to walk a few steps to find the best angle of your subject is always advised. If you're feeling a little more adventurous plan yourself a route that circles back to where you park your car.

 

1. Kit Requirements

When it comes to kit, a tripod is essential when working with low light levels and make sure you pack the wide-angle lens for capturing sweeping shots of the landscape. A longer zoom won't be out of place either, plus pack a range of filters including grads and a polariser. A graduated neutral density filter would be useful in case you find the sky's a lot lighter than the ground. While a polarising filter will reduce glare and deepen blue skies

If you want to shoot wide vistas with foreground detail use your wide-angle lens while telephotos let you pull in detail and are also excellent at putting objects within their environmental context.

 

 

2. Adapt To Your Conditions

Morning light can be cool sometimes so try using the cloudy or shade white-balance settings on your camera to give the shot a little more warmth. You'll also need longer exposures and this is where your tripod will be useful as you don't want shake spoiling your shots. It will also slow you down, making you stand back and evaluate the scene in front of you.

While you're out early, try capturing a sunrise shot. If the sky was clear the night before there's a good chance you'll be able to capture a cracking sunrise but if a little bit of cloud starts to appear don't worry; it will help diffuse the light. As the sky's bright and the ground's dark your camera may struggle to expose correctly but bracketing can solve this or if you just want to focus on the sun try spot metering. Never look at the sun through the lens, though as there is the risk of eye damage. Instead, make good use of your camera's LiveView feature or just compose with the sun shielded behind something solid.

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

1. Look At The Small Details 

The key to this type of photography is to stop looking at buildings as whole structures and focus on the small pockets of interesting patterns and shapes they're made up of. Don't overlook the ugly looking buildings either as most of the time, once you're zoomed in and focused on one part, you'll find they're perfect subjects when you're on the hunt for architectural patterns. If you can't zoom in or use your feet to help you get a frame-filling shot, capture the image anyway as you may be able to crop out the distractions in your editing software once back home. 

 

2. Look Up 

If you find people or clutter are getting in your way move your feet to find a clearer angle or try taking your eyes away from street level altogether – you'll be surprised at what you see. Just watch your shutter speeds if you're working hand-held and make sure you're focusing accurately as you don't want a blurry shot.

 

 

3. Grey Days Can Be Good Days
 

Don't be afraid of cloudy, damp days as these can give your shots a moody feel while a bright blue sky will contrast well against a strong metal frame.

4. Top Ideas Worth Trying 

• Old vs new – Find points where old architecture meets and merges with the new
• Broken/cracked windows – The shapes formed in the glass make interesting patterns
• Metal structures – Fantastic strong, bold and often symmetrical shapes
• Brickwork – Look for strong colours   

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to richmowil (Day 13 - Garden Birds)

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 10

Natural Light Portrait

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Day 11

Creative Focus

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Day 12

Outdoor Paths

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  Day 14

Indoor Flower

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Day 15

'One'

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Day 16

Black & White Architecture

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Day 17

Snow

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

- Partner Content - 

 

 

From Luminar Neo to the Ecosystem

Luminar Neo has long been loved by photographers for making complex edits simple. Its AI-powered tools, starting with the legendary Sky Replacement, let you bring your vision to life with ease, turning ordinary shots into something extraordinary. And now, the all-new Luminar Ecosystem takes it even further, connecting mobile and desktop editing, streamlining your workflow, and opening up new creative possibilities. With this major upgrade, reviving memories, enhancing flat lighting, and sharing your work has never been easier or more inspiring.

 

Keep Your Creative Flow Going, Anytime Anywhere

The Luminar Ecosystem isn’t just powerful, it’s flexible. With cross-device editing, you can start a project on your phone and finish it on your desktop without any interruptions. Every adjustment, from sliders to masks, syncs automatically across devices, ensuring your work is always up to date.

This workflow is perfect for photographers who are on the move. Capture a stunning scene while travelling, start your edits on your tablet or mobile, and finalise them at your desk, without losing a single tweak.

 

Share Your Stories with Friends and Clients Instantly

Once your photos are edited to perfection, the Spaces feature allows you to turn them into beautiful, shareable web galleries. In a few clicks, curated photo collections can be published online, creating a personal showcase for friends, family, clients, or fans.

Spaces isn’t just a gallery, it’s a storytelling tool. It gives your work context, emotion, and impact, helping you share memories, projects, or professional portfolios without needing design skills or a website. Transform your photos into immersive experiences, making it easier than ever to connect with your audience through the power of imagery.

 

 

Bring Old Photos Back to Life 

One of the standout features of the new Luminar Ecosystem upgrade is Restoration, a tool that makes bringing old or damaged photos back to life completely effortless. In just one click, Restoration can remove deep scratches, restore faded colour, or do both at once.

With Restoration, all you need to do is upload your image, select the type of restoration, and let AI handle the rest. The results are natural, polished, and packed with emotion, turning old snapshots into vibrant, memory-filled images you’ll be proud to share.

You can easily enhance an old family heirloom, a scanned black-and-white image, or a damaged print with Restoration that ensures every photo feels brand new again.

 

 

Add Dimension and Drama with Light 

Another major highlight is Light Depth, a smart enhancement tool designed to give your photos professional-level depth and contrast. Light Depth automatically identifies where your image needs highlights and shadows, sculpting a more dimensional, visually striking result.

It’s especially useful for images that appear flat or under-lit. Instead of manually dodging and burning, which can take 10–15 minutes per photo, Light Depth achieves sculpted lighting in a single click. It draws attention to key subjects, enhances natural contrast, and helps your images truly pop, making it ideal for portraits, landscapes, and fast-paced workflows where time is precious.

 

 

Edit Smarter and Faster with AI suggestions

The Luminar Ecosystem will also introduce AI Assistant soon, an intelligent built-in guide that will help you edit photos with confidence and efficiency. By analysing each image, it will suggest optimal adjustments, from fine-tuning colour and contrast to improving overall balance, allowing you to apply one-click enhancements or use its recommendations as a creative starting point. AI Assistant will also simplify navigation, helping you quickly locate tools such as Develop / Develop Raw, Curves, Colour, and Colour Harmony, making even advanced features more accessible. It will be ideal for speeding up your workflow, understanding the product faster, and unlocking the full potential of every image.

 

Get More Editing Power at Your Fingertips

As mentioned, the Luminar Ecosystem includes a mobile app that brings powerful editing tools directly to your device. With features like Enhance AI, Structure, Sky AI, and advanced portrait tools, you can edit with precision anytime, anywhere. Full RAW support, crop, erase, and curves adjustments give you complete creative control on the move. 

For its convenience and versatility, it was recognised as Best Multi-Device App of 2025 by Google Play. Luminar Mobile is available for iPhone, iPad, Android devices, and ChromeOS, allowing you to edit wherever you are on your preferred device.

 

Seamlessly Integrate Luminar into Your Existing Workflow

Beyond the powerful new features, the Luminar Ecosystem is built to fit effortlessly into the editing setup you already rely on. 

It can function as a standalone editor or as a plugin for Photoshop or Lightroom, allowing you to incorporate its AI tools into your existing workflow without disruption.

Preset collections, advanced masking, and layer support give you creative control, while AI-driven enhancements save time and maintain quality. Whether you’re working on portraits, landscapes, or creative composites, Luminar Ecosystem adapts to your needs—streamlining the editing process while giving you powerful tools to explore new styles and techniques.

  A Few Final Words

The Luminar Ecosystem is more than just an editing suite, it’s a full creative platform. From restoring old memories to sculpting light, editing across devices, and sharing work in beautiful web galleries, these tools help both beginners and professionals simplify complex processes and achieve polished results with ease.

Discover the power of AI-driven editing and transform your workflow today. Your memories, stories, and images deserve it.

Click the link below and use code EPHOTOZINE at checkout for 10% off and experience the full power of Luminar Ecosystem today.

Get Luminar Neo

 

Taken during an early morning visit to Hartlepool Headland, Rolling In by DaveRyder shows the sea pushing towards the shore. The headland sets the location, while the main focus is the movement of the water.

A longer exposure smooths the waves into flowing lines across the scene. Dark clouds sit above softer light in the sky, adding contrast, while wind turbines on the horizon give the image a modern touch. Together, these elements create a strong coastal photograph that reflects the conditions well.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

Shooting successful landscapes in black and white is not quite as easy as it might seem. I have to admit that when I first started photographing landscapes with black and white film, I was so disappointed with the results that I gave up for several years. What I didn’t realise is that I was breaking one simple rule that if I had understood it, would have made life much simpler. Basically, my images lacked separation.

 

 

The Fundamental Rule Of Black And White

To achieve a good black and white image you need to have separation between the elements in the frame. If you can’t distinguish or find it difficult to distinguish between the elements the image will lack impact and the viewer will struggle to understand it. The problem I had and one that many people trying to shoot black and white landscapes have is that whilst in colour the different elements are easy to see. Once converted to black and white, many of the tones of the landscape blend together.

 

What’s needed are ways to separate the elements for the viewer. Here are some ideas to help you.

  1. Conversion

The tools we now have available in the digital darkroom make life much easier. Ideally, you need a conversion technique that allows you to target different colours so they appear as different tones in the final image. For example, you might darken a blue sky whilst lightening grass and foliage. If you were using black and white film you would use a Green or Yellow filter to achieve this effect but tools such as Photoshop and Lightroom make this easy to achieve.

A further tip you might like to try is selectively changing the colour for some areas of your image. This will make them respond differently during the conversion to Black and White and help provide separation.

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2. Composition

Strong composition can also help in separating the elements of the image even where they might have similar tones. One good way to ensure a good composition for black and white is to include a strong foreground interest. Seek out strong shapes in the landscape such as walls and trees that might provide a leading line into the landscape. Strong distinctive shapes are easier for the eye to pick out and understand even when the tones are similar.

In this example, I have used the strong shape of the rocks to provide bold foreground interest. I have also used other techniques discussed below to enhance the separation of objects in the scene.
 

3. Contrast

This can be a problem with many black and white landscape images. I find the elements within the frame will become much more distinct when the contrast-enhanced. In the film world, we would use a coloured filter such as a Yellow, Orange or Red placed in front of the lens to help boost contrast. We might also use exposure techniques and higher contrast papers when printing in the darkroom.

In the digital age, the easiest way to add contrast is by applying an S-Curve in your editing package. Also, don’t overlook Midtone contrast as this can really add to the monochrome landscape image. The easiest way to add Midtone contrast is in RAW conversion software that has a Clarity slider, which is essentially the same thing. In the following image of the Polish Tetras, I have significantly boosted the Midtone contrast to help provide some separation between the trees which would otherwise blend into a solid grey tone.
 

4. Dodge & Burn

The technique of dodging and burning an image has been around from the early days of photography and was used extensively by masters such as Ansel Adams. In this image, I have created a conversion that deliberately darkened the ground to create a contrast with the waterfall. I then used the dodge and burn tools in Photoshop to emphasise this as well as lightening selected areas of grass. When you dodge and burn an image it helps to create the feeling of interest in the scene for the viewer.
 

So remember the rule; if you want to capture strong black and white landscapes you need to separate the elements in the frame.

Words and images by Robin Whalley   

 

A bold black and white portrait that plays with hiding and showing has earned our 'Photo of the Week' (POTW).

Hudson_Swan's 'Zipper...' is a creative take on portrait photography that caught the team's attention in the Gallery. We like the clever use of a leather jacket zipper as both frame and idea, with just one eye peering through the opening. The crisp monochrome processing shows the rich texture of the leather and the metallic detail of the zipper teeth, while the eye stays sharp and engaging. The lighting works well. It’s a simple idea done really well, with a mysterious feel that makes it POTW worthy.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

 

Take a walk around your town or local park and you'll soon find a statue or monument. They don't move, or complain so are a perfect subject for a photographer and most are so well sculptured that you have the opportunity to shoot several varied photographs of them.

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1. Gear Suggestions

Unless you're a particular fan of the carvings that decorate the tops of churches you'll only need a standard zoom lens which means this is a project you can do with your DSLR or compact camera. If you want a little bit more stability take a tripod along but you can quite happily work hand-held.

 

2 The Statue's Position

When you come across a statue the first thing you should do is take a walk around it to look at the angle. As most statues have a dominating position raised up on plinths, shots of statues can often end up looking a little distorted due to the low angle you shoot from. To combat this just stand further back and use a longer focal length to fill the frame. To improve your shot further, if there are steps or a wall nearby stand on them to give you more height or if you don't mind the trial and error approach you could always put your camera up above your head and take your photo - you may get some surprisingly good results.

 

 

3. Think About Backgrounds

As well as looking for the right angle to photograph the statue pay attention to the background as this can change the overall look of the image. A messy background's distracting while a bright sky can affect the meter reading and leave you with a silhouetted statue. Metering from a darker part of the scene can wash the sky out completely so try using exposure compensation if you find metering to be a problem. If you've found an angle you just have to photograph but the background's spoiling the shot, use a wider aperture to throw the background out of focus.

 

4. Working In Shade

If your statue's in a shaded area, such as under trees, make sure your flash is off as this will blast light into the scene and all the shadows which emphasis the statue's shape will be lost. You may need to use a slightly longer shutter speed so make sure you hold your camera steady or pop it on a tripod to prevent camera shake.

 

5. Other Locations

When you've walked the length of your town searching for statues there are plenty of sculpture parks across the UK that give you the opportunity to capture several interesting pieces of art in one location.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

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Fast aperture prime lenses have always been in fashion, sought after by photographers keen to enjoy the photo opportunities they bring. They are exciting optics, but they come with baggage. Depending on the format, they are often big and hefty and then there’s the price which can be considerable. Comparing like-for-like focal lengths, a lens that is just a fraction of an f/stop faster can mean a big enough price difference to make the hardened photographer weep. 

Are fast primes worth the cash? Well, that’s only a question you can answer but if you like the idea of shallow depth-of-field, shooting in poor light and using low ISOs, then a fast lens or two in the kit bag is a compelling option. Of course, the other thing with primes is that they demand a more disciplined photographic approach and that’s a good thing too. 

So, if a fast prime is on your wish list it makes sense to check out used gear specialist MPB first. With great service, competitive prices and expert-checked stock, MPB will help you make the most of your budget, and the camera kit is covered by a warranty too.

In this shopping trip, we have assumed a £3000 spend with the aim of equipping ourselves with a three fast prime lens outfit together with a high resolution, full-frame camera.

As for which brand, it was a choice between Nikon, Panasonic and Sony, with Canon sidelined being limited to its own AF lenses. Panasonic full-frame cameras use the L-Mount, which is well supported. The Nikon Z mount is gaining ground among independent lens makers, but we plumped for Sony. Its E-mount currently has the broadest choice of its own and third-party optics.

For the body, the Sony Alpha A7RIV appealed. Its AF might not be quite up to the level of its newer brothers but it’s still very capable and it has 61 megapixels under its bonnet to enjoy. High resolution is a big attraction, but this classy camera also has 10fps continuous shooting with AF tracking, weather-sealing, impressive video capability and plenty of customisation potential.

Typically Sony, the top plate controls are nicely placed and there’s plenty of customisation potential with camera set-up.

 

A quick search on MPB’s website showed A7RIV body options from £1239, which was in good condition but with a shutter count of over 150,000. Committing a further £200 of our budget to the body gave the option of an A7RIV in excellent condition and a shutter count of just over 14,000. It’s a good choice for £1439.

Onto lenses, choosing which three focal lengths to go for was a challenge because obviously, much depends on what you like to photograph. After a little internal deliberation, the idea of a wide-angle, a standard and a short telephoto seemed a great outfit capable of dealing with a wide breadth of subject matter.

 

Wide-angle lenses mean you can include plenty of environment to give pictures context. Image credit: Will Cheung.

 

For the wide, the 24mm focal length had the greatest all-round appeal, with the 20mm perhaps too wide for general shooting and the 28mm not quite wide enough. Anyway, at the time of our stock search, MPB didn’t have any stock of the 20mm or 28mm lenses from Sigma, but in this situation what you can do is create a stock alert - it can be cancelled at any time - by supplying an email address and as soon as the relevant item comes into stock, you’ll receive notification. 

 

The 24mm focal length means foreground can be exploited in landscape pictures. To blur the water in this scene, the exposure used was 2 secs at f/11 and ISO 100. Image credit: Will Cheung.

 

MPB had a couple of Sigma 24mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art lenses in excellent condition at £354. It’s not quite as good as the current 24mm f/1.4 DG DN Art, but it’s not far behind and the attractive price meant we had more budget to complete our outfit. 

Sigma Art lenses have a great reputation, and we stayed with Sigma for the 50mm lens. MPB had two 50mm f/1.4 DG DN Art in stock, both in ‘Like new’ condition at £674 and £699. We went for the cheaper option which took our spend so far to £2467, which leaves £533 for a short 85mm telephoto, a focal length that would suit portraits, street and scenes.

 

A fast 50mm lens is just the ticket for available light portraits and means high quality shots are possible without having to push ISO too far. This portrait was exposed at ISO 1600. Image credit: Will Cheung.

 

Having £533 to spend on a high spec short telephoto doesn’t give much room for manoeuvre. More recent 85mm lenses f/1.4 from Samyang and Viltrox were not in stock from MPB at the time, while f/1.4 alternatives from Sigma and Sony bust the budget. One 85mm f/1.4 option was the Sirui Aurora with a single sample priced at £394.

Zooms dominate the lens market but there’s a very healthy interest in primes, especially high spec models with fast apertures.

 

Another route was to go for an 85mm f/1.8 which brought quite a few options into play. The difference between f/1.8 and f/1.4 is a little over half-a-stop so significant but not huge. In practice, having to use a marginally higher ISO would have minimal negative impact on the Sony A7RIV, especially with the possibility of noise reduction in editing. Pictorially, an f/1.8 lens used wide open will still give a nicely blurred background and be very slightly less critical when it comes to focus.

 

The 85mm focal length is extremely versatile and having a fast maximum aperture is a big advantage too. This was shot at f/3.5 and the background is still nicely blurred. Image credit: Will Cheung.

 

MPB had an excellent condition Zeiss Batis 85mm f/1.8 at £514. Taking the route of a Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 at £289 for an excellent condition model would save money, and that could be used for protection filters for the three lenses. In the end, though, the thought of having a Zeiss lens in the bag makes the option more compelling.

So, with MPB’s help, we have a solid, general purpose three prime lens outfit comprising a 24mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8 together with a recent Sony 61 megapixel full-frame camera. That sounds good and a fabulous way to kick off 2026.

 

  News from MPB

Keep right up to date with the latest camera techniques and buying advice with MPB. Two In the Field shooting guides were recently posted, using Canon EF lenses for Astrophotography and the Nikon Z8 for Landscape Photography. For hardware buying tips, check out MPB’s Selects guides. A recent story was Top Camera Gear for Wildlife Photography.

Click here to take you to the Photo and video kit guides web page.

  MPB Explained

You need kit to take photographs and produce videos, and taking the used route is a cost-effective way of making the most of your budget and keeping up with the latest developments in imaging technology.

MPB is one of the biggest used retailers with bases in the UK, Germany and the USA.

Trading with MPB the process is fair, safe, painless and incredibly easy.

Whether you have kit to sell, want to make a purchase or part exchange, start by going to the MPB website which is intuitive and straightforward to use.

If you have kit to trade, just start typing the name in and a list of suggestions from MPB’s huge database will appear. If a name on that list matches your product click on it and add its condition; if not, continue typing in the whole name and condition.

It’s worth bearing in mind that MPB’s database covers much more than cameras and lenses so if you have, for example, a photo backpack, tripod or filters to sell these can be shown as you type in their name too.

With all your kit listed, add contact details and a quote will appear in your inbox soon afterwards, although manually entered items will take one working day.

If you are happy with the quote, accept it and follow the instructions to get the kit ready for courier collection on a day to suit you. For higher-value deals, an MPB account manager will also be in touch, so you have a personal point of contact if you have any queries.

Once received by MPB, you will get a notification and after checking by its product specialists you will receive a final quote. This can vary from the original quote if there is a missing item —like a battery not being supplied—or your assessed condition differs from the actual condition.

A quote can go down, but it can also increase if the kit’s condition is better than your assessment.

The whole process doesn’t take long and MPB are in touch by e-mail at every step so you’re never in the dark, and only when you are totally happy with the deal, pass on your payment details or pay the balance in the case of part-exchange. Either way, the money or your new kit will be with you soon after.

Get A Quote From MPB Today

 

About MPB

• MPB is the largest global platform to buy, sell and trade used photo and video kit.
• MPB is the simple, safe and circular way to trade, upgrade and get paid.
• MPB is not a marketplace, instead buying directly from visual storytellers and evaluating all items before reselling MPB-approved kit.
• MPB's dynamic pricing engine provides the right price upfront for all items.
• Circularity is at the centre of MPB, promoting sustainability, diversity and inclusion in everything they do.
• MPB prioritises inclusive recruitment and supports employees with extensive training and development. They promote inclusive visual storytelling and an inclusive circular economy.
• MPB's business model is 100% circular. All packaging is 100% plastic-free. Their cloud-based platform uses 100% renewable electricity.
• MPB recirculates more than 570,000 products annually
• MPB provides first-class customer service. Customers can receive support through their Help Centre or by speaking directly with a kit expert.
• MPB's product specialists are trusted by thousands of visual storytellers in the UK.
• MPB is rated ‘Excellent’ on Trustpilot with over 37,000 reviews.

Visit The MPB Website

When you're new to photography and are not quite ready to venture into the manual world, the basic shooting modes available on your camera's dial can help you get a better photo, in certain situations. These are pre-programmed modes which can be used to shoot a particular subject or scene.

Almost all digital cameras these days will have at least macro, sport, landscape, night, movie and portrait modes. Plus, there are a few modes/features that are individual to each camera.

These scene modes are usually easy to find on your camera. They will either be found on the wheel which sits on the top of your camera or they will be clearly marked on the camera's menu system.

Your camera's manual will give you more details on specific modes but to get you started, here's a quick rundown of what popular modes are available and when you'd use them:

 

Portrait Mode

Portrait mode's obviously for portraits and it tells your camera you're photographing a subject where you want the background to be blurred so all attention falls on them. By selecting this mode, the camera picks a larger aperture (smaller f-number) to throw the background out of focus.

 

 

Sports Mode (Action)

This tells the camera to use a quicker shutter speed so you can freeze the action/movement in front of you. It's designed to be used with moving subjects so try it out when you're by the football pitch or capturing cars at the go-kart track. Having a camera with fast AF, such as those available in the NX series, will also increase your chances of capturing a sharp action shot.

 

 

Beach/Snow Mode

Beach scene shooting mode is as the name suggests a mode to use when shooting pictures on a beach. Sand reflects a lot of light and fools cameras into underexposing so the shot comes out dark. When sand is recorded dark it looks muddy and not the lovely golden yellow depending on the time of day and weather conditions. The Beach scene mode increases the exposure slightly to compensate but also adjusts the white balance to make the sand look more natural. This mode is sometimes combined with a Snow scene mode which causes similar exposure problems for a camera. It's great for quick snaps on the beach when you're out on day trips or on holiday with your family.

 

 

Landscape Mode

This tells the camera you want front-to-back sharpness so it will select a smaller aperture (larger f-number) to give you this. This mode sometimes boosts the greens in an image as you'll tend to be shooting scenes that have more of this shade in it with this mode. Be careful if it's a little dull though as the camera may use a slower shutter speed due to the smaller aperture size which can result in shake if you're not using a tripod.

 

 

Macro Mode (Close Up)

When shooting insects, flowers, coins and other small objects, this is the mode you want. Different cameras will have a different macro focusing distance but all of them do let your camera know you'll be shooting something that's small and fairly close to your lens, with a narrow depth of field. A tripod will be a big help when working in this mode as the tiniest of movements can cause your shot to go out of focus.

 

 

Movie Mode

This mode lets you shoot short videos with sound. Some cameras also capture HD movies. 
 

Other Modes that feature on some cameras include:

• Panoramic – Create wide-screen shots by simply choosing the Panorama Mode while moving the camera in the direction you want. 
• Kids/Pets Mode – This is similar to Action/Sport Mode as it is designed to help you capture fast-moving objects by quickening the shutter speed.
• Fireworks Mode – Obviously, it's for photographing fireworks but it can also be used for light painting too.
• Sunset – to help you capture the colours of a sunset in all its glory
• Dawn – for those photographers who get up early to shoot their landscapes
• Text - photograph text in documents clearly and easily with this mode.

 

1. Know What You'll Be Using It For

Before you make your purchase, make sure you think about where and what you'll be using your tripod for. For example, you don't want to set out walking through the countryside to find the tripod you've purchased is heavy or impractical.
 

2. What Type Of Tripod?

A full-sized tripod extends to eye level, offer rigid support and tend to stay standing when used on windy days. Some models can be a little bulky and heavy but some companies have tripods which are made out of aluminium alloy making them light and easy to transport.

A compact tripod is similar to the full-size version except it but collapses to a very small size making it easier to carry around. There are also mini pods and tabletop tripods available. For times when a tripod would get in the way, such as when shooting in a crowd, the next best thing that gives you the same height but without the bulky splayed legs is a monopod.
 

3. Check The Height Of The Legs

If you're buying the tripod from a shop on the high street, make sure you extend the legs fully so you can check to see if they go to the height you need. Obviously, you can't do this online but most sites have a section where more details such as height, weight etc. of the product you're interested in can be found.
 

 

 

4. Have A Look At The Head

Most tripods do come with a head but tripod manufacturers do stock heads which you can buy separately. Most tripod heads will shoot in a vertical format as well as horizontal. If you're going to be shooting panoramas, move the head so you can see how freely/smoothly it'll pan. If you're buying online just have a read of the tripod's features for more information on how well the model pans and moves.
 

5. How Quick Is The Quick Release System?

Many tripods now feature a quick release system which uses a plate that can be permanently fastened to your camera to lock it in position on your tripod. Check how easy it is to fasten and remove your camera to the tripod as you don't want to be fighting with your equipment when out in the field.

 

6. Legs And Locks

Make sure the legs are fully out before you put your camera on the tripod and always extend the thickest part of the legs first before moving on to adjust the smaller parts as this will give you a more rigid support. Before extending the height of the centre column do check the legs are at their maximum height because even though it's quick and easy to adjust the centre column, it's not a good habit to get into and you'll have a much more sturdy base to work with if you adjust the legs first.

As well as securing your tripod, locks should be quick to adjust and easy to use. Locks are either levers or twist grips. Twist grip locks are very secure while the lever lock option is faster to use but do make sure they are locked tight before taking your shot as you don't want the tripod to slip mid-exposure.

 

 

7. The Feet

Most tripods have rubber feet which absorb shock and offer good grip on most terrain. Some models feature spiked feet which are useful in situations where you need to sink your tripod into the ground such as at the beach or on a windy, wet hillside.

 

8. Clean Your Tripod

You want to make sure your gear is always ready to go and in a good condition so keep it clean and free of rust. This is even more important when you've spent the day at the coast as saltwater will corrode tripod legs and feet so always rinse them off in fresh water once home.

   

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