Photography News

If you've ever felt stuck repeating the same techniques, Adam Gibbs is working through exactly that in his latest video, shot across the Canadian Rockies and Waterton National Park. He's been leaning into multiple exposure photography with a deliberate, controlled method that produces something closer to a painted landscape than a straight photograph. 

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I am a fashion photographer by profession. Is AI going to take my job immediately? Should I quit now, hang up my camera, and forget it all? I decided to put multiple AI image generators to the test to see how quickly I'm going to be out of a job. After doing so, I feel safer in my current position, and here's why. 

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When the sun's out us Brits pack the car up with buckets, spades, the dog and family members and head to the beach. But as well as eating ice cream and playing the odd game of cricket or rounders take some time out to take a few beach photos. It doesn't even have to be a gloriously sunny day for photography either as waves crashing against the sea wall will look just as good as a family snap on the front.

  1. Gear Suggestions

You won't need a huge bag full of your fancy gear - you'll have enough to carry with all of the cool boxes and beach gear anyway! Your interchangeable lens camera and a zoom lens are fine or even a point-and-shoot camera will be enough if you're really lacking on space. Make space in your bag for a hotshoe flash for when the sun begins to set and if you're worried about saltwater or sand getting into your camera put it in waterproof housing or if you're using a point-and-shoot make it a waterproof one. Pack a blower to gently remove grains of sand that will land on your lens and have a microfibre cloth ready to wipe away sea spray.

 

2. Capturing Portraits

It's most likely that your number one subject at the beach will be your family but you don't always have to take shots of them grinning like Cheshire cats at you. Candids of them resting, playing in the sand, swimming or eating ice cream will work just as well, if not better than a posed, family portrait.

 

3. Lighting Tips 

Make sure you pay attention to where the sun is. It may work well for the sun to be behind you but this will only make your subject squint. Instead, move your subject into the shade of a brolly or have the sun behind them and use flash to fill in the shadows. Also, if you can, avoid taking photos at midday as the light's harsh and causes long shadows.

 

 

4. Check Your Backgrounds

Keep away from distracting backgrounds and make sure you take a good look around the viewfinder before you take your shot as the odd bit of rubbish, which can spoil a shot, is easy to miss when you're surrounded by so many interesting things. Make sure your subject fills the frame to stop attention going elsewhere and even though it may sound a little clichéd, silhouette shots of people do work well. Try using a telephoto lens to help you compose tightly and have your tripod to hand for those longer, evening exposures.

 

5. Don't Forget Your Basic Beach Shots 

As well as people shots try a sweeping shot of the sea and beach, stretching out for miles. Early morning or later in the evening after all the tourists have gone will give you an empty beach to work with. However, not everyone has kids who will get out of bed early so if the only shot you can take is full of brollies and windbreakers in the afternoon do it. A busy beach, particularly if there's not even standing room left, will always get a smile or you could try to clone them all out if you prefer a more natural shot.

 

6. Capturing Sunset Scenes 

Sunsets are, of course, a holiday snapshot favourite but as the sun's not setting until late on you may want to head off for some food then return to the beach later once your stomach's full.

If you do plan on photographing the sun as it sets DO NOT look at it through the camera lens and wait until it's very low in the sky and diffused by the haze caused by pollution or clouds. If the sun's your main focus, have it slightly off centre to make your final image more compositionally pleasing and don't forget that having foreground as well as background interest works well in sunset shots.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Kev8990 (Day 13- 'Birds Of Prey').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 9

Rust Close-Ups

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Day 10

Sunny Days

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Day 11

Silhouettes

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Day 12

Diagonal Lines

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  Day 14

Fountains

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Day 15

Desserts

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Day 16

Sunsets

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

I know the first thing some people will ask: 'why?' Well, to be fair, that is a perfectly sound question and yes, why bother standing in a stream and shoot water bubbles. To me, it is because you can and with digital there is no cost. It is also a nice break from the usual blurred water shots that many of us love. So, while you are out there doing waterfalls, spend a few minutes afterwards trying this subject.
 

"It is fun, challenging and you may even like the results. In fact, if you want some abstracts to hang up, this technique is worth trying", ePHOTOzine.

Of course, you can shoot water bubbles in the bath, should you feel that way inclined. However, this idea is water bubbles in a babbling brook or at the foot of a waterfall. Health and safety point here: Please take care on slippery rocks and obviously take care of your kit.

  1. Take A Support

You could, of course, use a tripod and position the camera so it is pointing down. Tripods that have a centre column that can be swung round to horizontal make it easier to shoot down onto the water's surface as well as offering more support than working hand-held will. Do make sure your tripod is secure and balanced so it won't fall over, camera first into the stream or river you're photographing.
 

2. Pick The Right Lenses

Lens-wise, try your lens's macro feature or use a macro lens. A macro lens used close up is perfect, but there won't be a great deal of depth-of-field at such fast shutter speeds. Setting a high ISO is an option, but that depends on the noise performance of your camera.

3. Dress Appropriately

Wear sturdy boots, making sure they are waterproof if you're planning on standing in a stream. Wellies or waders mean that you have more freedom regarding camera position but you can just find a suitable spot by keeping your feet dry and standing on a rock or something. You'll also need a warm, waterproof jacket, particularly at this time of year when a rain shower is a common thing. Various jackets and photographer's vests are available on the market.
 

4. Choose The Right Shutter Speeds

Find yourself a good spot in the stream. This can be in a sunbeam or it can be in the shade. However, very fast shutter speeds are the order of the day, so check the lighting and if you are getting 1/1000sec or more, great. It is an opportunity to explore those speeds of 1/2000sec and 1/4000sec. As with blurring flowing water, try different shutter speeds. Flash is worth a try too.

  

5. Let's Talk About Focus And Exposure

Exposure and focusing are technical challenges. Your camera is not going to manage to autofocus – water bubbles do not hang around waiting for your AF to kick in. The best thing is to focus manually and then change the camera position to get sharp focus. The reject rate will be high.

Exposure can be tricky because you have a bright, sunlit bubble against a dark background, and the scene is constantly changing. Like focusing, taking the manual option is worth serious thought. Meter manually, shoot some frames and make adjustments. Once you have metered for a particular lighting situation, it is time to start shooting.
 

6. Don't Stop Shooting

Shoot lots. You are not going to get the perfect picture in a couple of frames. You will find that the micro landscape in front of you is never the same twice – miss a shot and you are not going to get another identical shot. Put in a positive way, every shot you take will be unique – no question. You can also play around with your images in Photoshop, flipping images to create interesting patterns etc. 

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Many of today's advanced AI software features require extra subscriptions. This is also true for Photoshop's premium AI models in Generative Fill. But what if you could access the powerful Nano Banana AI for retouching without committing to another subscription? In this article, I reveal a pay-as-you-go method for using cutting-edge AI in Photoshop.

 

A few months ago, I wrote an article showcasing the power of Google’s Nano Banana AI when used for retouching in Photoshop. In the same article, I also complained that using it would require yet another subscription.

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The Fstoppers community is brimming with creative vision and talent. Every day, we comb through your work, looking for images to feature as the Photo of the Day or simply to admire your creativity and technical prowess. In 2026, we're featuring a new photographer every month, whose portfolio represents both stellar photographic achievement and a high level of involvement within the Fstoppers community. 

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Nobody buys a Leica because of its autofocus. Nobody chooses a Leica M11-P over a Sony a7R V because the spec sheet wins. The M11-P uses a manual rangefinder mechanism that was functionally mature by the 1960s. In any feature comparison against a modern mirrorless camera, the Leica loses on nearly every measurable axis: autofocus speed, burst rate, video capability, lens versatility, weather-sealing, and especially price-to-specification ratio. 

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Printing from an 11-megapixel file in 2025 sounds like a recipe for soft, pixelated results, but modern AI upscaling has changed what's actually possible. The gap between what a low-resolution file contains and what you can put on a large print is now much smaller than it used to be. 

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The iPad Pro has tempted photographers for years with its portability and touchscreen display, but most people who try it for serious editing eventually drift back to their laptops. Evan Ranft spent six months with the M5 iPad Pro figuring out exactly why that happens and what to do instead. 

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Minimalist photography sounds simple, but the harder you chase it, the more it slips away. The moment you name your style, you've already done what you were trying to avoid: labeled it, boxed it, explained it away. 

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Street photography sits at an uncomfortable intersection for many people: is it documentation or intrusion? The answer shapes not just how you approach it, but whether you approach it at all. 

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  Natural light is often the only light available to us when we are out shooting. But far from being an untameable beast, there are several ways that you can control it to achieve your desired photo.   1. Pay Attention To How It 'Looks'

A scene can look very different depending on what time of day you're looking at it. For this reason, when possible, it's worth visiting a location at various points a day or so before you want to take your photos as this will give you the opportunity to judge when it looks at its best. Of course, this isn't always possible but a little research on the internet may uncover some information on your chosen location you can use to your advantage.

Don't always think you have to shoot in the 'golden hours' either as you some subjects, such as close-up work for creating textures, look better when photographed at other points during the day. Having said that, early morning or late sun can transform a scene which appears flat and not very inspiring during the middle of the day. 
 

2. Light Direction

By changing your shooting position or moving your subject (if possible) you can alter the direction the light falls. The relationship between the direction of light and your subject is important as it can change your image from a good shot to a great one. Think about light direction when setting up and decide if front, side or backlight is perfect for the scene. Side lighting often produces the best highlights and shadows which is key for giving shots a dimensional feel. 

 

 

3. Reflect Light

Reflectors come in many shapes, sizes and colours. Predominantly though they are white, silver or gold and each type of colour will reflect light slightly differently. White reflectors are a safe bet but if you want a brighter light, use a silver reflector, while gold ones produce a warmer light. 

Why do you need to use a reflector? Well, it's a simple and reasonably inexpensive way to bounce light where it's needed. Try not to hold the reflector too low and remember that light will bounce back off a reflector at the same angle it hit it at. Also, the closer the reflector is to your subject, the stronger the light reflecting off it will be. 
 

4. Diffuse Light 

When working indoors with window light, curtains can be used as barn doors or flags to control the 'spill' of the light and a net or something similar can be used to diffuse and soften the light.  

If you're working outdoors ask your subject to move into a shaded area where the light will be more even and as a result, your portrait will be more flattering. 

 

 

 

5. Post Processing

Even though we strive to get everything right in camera, often shots need a slight tweak during post-production to balance the tonal range. We know this isn't about working with natural light when out in the field but it's about making the natural light balance correctly throughout the image. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

A day out at the coast gives you a good excuse to get your camera out of its bag. It doesn't matter if you're going on a family day-trip or with a group of fellow photographers as you'll be able to capture a decent amount of imagery with whoever you go with, although your family probably won't want to see you looking down your view-finder all of the time!

In this article, we list 10 popular photography tutorials which are all about taking photos at the coast as well as offer some advice on what gear you might want to consider packing next time you head for the beach.

 

1. Beach Photography Tips - 5 Top Ways To Shoot Beach-Themed Images

 

2. Photography Tips For Shooting At The Coast  As And After The Sun Has Set 

 

  3. Tips And Kit Suggestions For Photographing Piers At The Coast 

 

4. Edwin Brosens Shares His Top Tips On Capturing Seascapes

 

 

5. Coastal Compact Camera Close-Up Photography Tips

 

6. Step Down Onto The Sand And Under The Pier For A Spot Of Pier Photography

 

7. How To Capture Lighthouse Landscape Shots On Your Coast Visit

    8. Top Flotsam Photography Tips For You To Read

  9. Five Tips To Improve Your Coastal Landscape Shots

 

10. Ten Top Tips To Help You Improve Your Seaside Photography

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Somewhere in every beginner photography forum, someone posts their first edited photo and asks for feedback. And somewhere in the replies, someone says: "You should really learn Photoshop." The implication is that Lightroom is training wheels, that serious photographers use Photoshop, and that the beginner will not produce professional-quality work until they learn layers, masks, blend modes, and frequency separation. 

That advice made sense in 2012. In 2026, it is actively counterproductive for most photographers.

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There is no shortage of talented photographers. Every year, more people buy a camera, launch a website, announce their new business, and genuinely believe they are about to build something sustainable. Many of them never do. 

That's not because photography is impossible to make money from, or because the market is completely saturated, or because only a lucky few can succeed. Most photography businesses fail for much simpler reasons: weak foundations, poor pricing, inconsistent marketing, avoidable burnout, and a misunderstanding of what clients are actually paying for.

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Most photographers hit a wall where their shots feel technically fine but visually flat. Knowing why that happens is the first step to fixing it, and a handful of specific, repeatable mistakes are almost always responsible. 

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Infrared photography turns familiar landscapes into something almost otherworldly, with blown-out white foliage, dark skies, and a contrast you simply can't replicate in post.  

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Fujifilm's GFX system produces some of the most detailed, tonally rich files available to working photographers today, and the lens lineup is both the system's greatest strength and its most significant financial commitment. After six years of building out a GFX kit, Samuel Elkins has opinions on what actually earns its place in the bag and what doesn't. 

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The Fujifilm X-E5 is a compact, rangefinder-style APS-C camera with a 40-megapixel sensor, in-body stabilization, and a $1,700 body-only price tag. That combination sounds compelling on paper, but the real question is whether the image quality holds up when you push past the base ISO. 

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