Photography News

 

Lambs are not only cute, but they're also a sign Spring is well-and-truely on its way so they make us doubly happy. Cuteness and happiness aside, they're great subjects for outdoor photos as not only do they make people go 'ahh' they're also pretty active so you can capture some great action shots as well as images that are a little calmer. 

To set you up for your lamb-themed photography shoot, we've got 5 essential tips to share with you. 

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1. Don't Trespass

Shooting from a roadside, lay bay or on a public path that has right of way through a field is fine but don't venture on to someone's land without asking permission first.

2. When To Photograph Them?

In some places, lambs are starting to appear in fields now and if the farmer started lambing early, some start in December, they should be starting to become more active which will give you the chance to capture more interesting shots.

Dull days might not be your favourite time to head out into the countryside, however, days like this can give the best sort of light which makes grass appear saturated and you'll be able to see plenty of detail in the lamb's coat.

 

3. Wrap Up Warm

Even though we do get sunny days, it's still rather cool out there and when you're standing around for lambs to move a little closer to you, you'll soon start to feel the cold if you're not dressed correctly. Sheep are generally very wary of people so once they've done a runner, it can take them quite some time to build up the confidence to come and graze near you again.

 

 

4. Find One Subject

If possible, zoom in and focus on just one lamb. Not only will this give you the 'ahh' factor but it'll also give your shot more impact. Your shot must be sharp and exposed well and if you can, use a wide aperture to throw the background out of focus so nothing distracts the eye away from the lamb.

Getting down to the lamb's level can give a more interesting viewpoint, however, you need to pay more attention to the background – posts growing out of heads is never a good look and other items can just be distracting.

If you're subject's slightly older, they'll have more energy and will be braver so are more likely to be jumping around. Adding a small amount of blur to your action shots with slower shutter speeds can work well but don't go too slow as you still need to be able to see what your subject is.

 

5. Group Shots

Singling out one lamb can be tricky in a field full of sheep so if you struggle, go for the group shot instead. Look for interesting patterns and formations the sheep create and if get a small cluster of sheep together, wait until they're all looking your way and snap the shot.
 

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Photography once had clearer purposes. Everyday images were made for practical or personal reasons, while others sought to express meaning. Technical prowess was the hallmark of professionals. Now the lines are blurred, and the resulting confusion may be reshaping how we understand photographs. 

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If you're a photographer long enough, eventually you will be robbed. Today, with the help of Apple AirTags, you might be able to get your gear back.  

I didn't think it would ever happen to me, until it did, and I happened to be filming. 

https://youtu.be/YSnkqyLCZko?si=N2cu5inn_PymKLgO

Yes, you could simply throw an AirTag in your camera bag and hope for the best, but the thief can easily find it, or the thief might just steal a camera. To be fully protected, we heed to mask our AirTags, and attach them to each camera as well. 

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Somewhere in Sigma's factory complex in Aizu, Japan, the company's sole manufacturing facility, where every Sigma lens and camera is built, there is an engineering team that has been working on a single image sensor for nearly a decade. They have built prototypes, found flaws, gone back to the drawing board, lost their manufacturing partner, and started over.

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Film photography is expensive, slow, and often inconvenient, yet more people keep picking it up. You’ve likely wondered whether it’s nostalgia, trend chasing, or something digital simply can’t replace. 

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Using white balance as a color grading tool can shift the entire mood of a landscape in minutes. When you stop treating white balance as a simple correction and start using it with masks, you gain precise control over how color moves across the frame. 

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The Ricoh GR IV is a rare camera that actually fits in a pocket and still gives you an APS-C sensor. If you care about image quality but refuse to carry a heavy kit, this one forces a serious conversation. 

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This video argues that the purpose of photography is simple: to notice and defend beauty. That idea can feel almost too soft in a world that rewards grit, edge, and shock value, but it's worth examining. 

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  Macro and close-up photography allows us to see the world from a different viewpoint and sometimes, shots can be almost magical with what they unveil. Plus, with so many subjects waiting to be captured, you really can put your macro photography skills to the test and, you don't have to venture much further than your own garden either.    To get you started, here are our 10 top tips on capturing images with close-up/macro lenses.  [HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]  1. Make Sure Your Subject Is Perfect

 

When you're working at such close focusing distances any imperfections become more noticeable and they can end up distracting the viewer or spoiling what could be an excellent shot. However, taking the time to look at your subject, making sure the butterfly you're photographing doesn't have a damaged wing or your fungi specimen isn't dirty or had a bite taken out of it, will mean you won't be disappointed when you review your shots on your computer once home.

2. Get Up Early

 

Not everyone's a fan of early starts but if you want to shoot macro photography out in the field, it's something you should get used to doing. Some subjects tend to be less active in the morning, especially when it's still a little chilly, making them easier to photograph and plants, flowers and other foliage are less likely to have had a bite taken out of them early on, too. Mornings can bring a sprinkling of dew which adds another level of interest to your shots and morning light is softer and warmer too.
 

3. Try Backlighting

 

Low, morning light makes it easier to backlight your subjects which can give your macro shots an interesting twist. Objects which are slightly translucent such as leaves, flower petals and butterfly wings look really good when light shines through them from the back. Keep a close eye on your shots though as the light levels can fool your camera into thinking the scene's too bright and it will underexpose the shot. If you do have problems just use exposure compensation to fix it.
 

4. Switch To Manual Focus

 

When working close to a subject, autofocus tends to end up searching backwards and forwards for something to focus on. Eventually, it may focus on the right point but it's much quicker to switch over to manual where you'll be able to focus more precisely. If you're not used to using manual focus it can take a little bit of practice but if you try shooting flowers, fungi and other objects which are less likely to fly or runoff, you don't have to rush so can take your time in getting your focusing spot-on. Then, once you're used to working manually, move on to more tricky subjects such as insects and other wildlife.
 

5. Try Pre-Focusing

 

Some macro subjects such as insects move fast and scare easily so pre-focusing your lens before they come into frame can increase your chances of capturing a good shot. Find something that's of a similar size of your subject and position it the same distance away as your subject will be when it lands.

 

6. Pack A Polarising Filter

 

A polarising filter can be fitted to a lens to ensure the colours captured are the same as the real thing, giving your shots more punch in the process. Attaching a polarising filter to your lens will slow your shutter speeds down, however, so make sure you're using a tripod to stop shake which can spoil your shot when working hand-held.
 

7. Avoid Shake

 

Camera shake is more noticeable when working close to your subject so always use a tripod. If you have one, use a remote release to fire the shutter button so you don't have to touch the camera or if you don't have one, use the camera's self-timer or your Smart Device if you have a camera that'll allow you to control it this way. Making sure your image stabilisation is on and using quicker shutter speeds, which you can get by switching to a higher ISO if you're working in low light, will help keep movement to a minimum but it's still best to fasten your camera to a tripod.
 

8. Windy Days Are Your Enemy

 

As already mentioned, any movement in the frame is exaggerated when working at such close focusing distances so what may seem like a small breeze to you can look like a strong, winter gale blowing through your image.

You can hold your subject in place with plamps etc. or if you're patient, just wait for the wind to stop blowing. You can also try and shelter the plant you're photographing with a make-shift shield. Card works well but if you're out in the field try using your camera bag or even your own body to shield your subject from the wind. Also, using a slightly quicker shutter speed will freeze motion but this isn't always possible, especially when working in darker locations such as woods.
 

9. Get In Close Then Add Some Space

 

By isolating part of a flower, insect or leaf you can create strong, abstract shots. So find detail that interests you and really zoom in close, filling the frame with striking shapes and interesting patterns.

Don't forget to try the opposite too so your subject has some space to 'breath'. Why? Well, it can help give your image context as well as create a sense of scale in your shot. Do keep your background simple if you do this though as you don't want it to distract from your main subject.
 

10. Light Your Shot Well

 

Where possible, try to use natural light, however, there are times when this isn't possible such as working in the woods where light levels are lower or when you're working with subjects that move quickly.

Rather than using your camera's built-in flash which is harsh and often too direct, try using a ring flash which can give a more even spread of light. Watch out for overexposed 'hotspots' appearing on your subject and when using natural light, make sure your own shadow isn't caught in-frame. You may also need to use a reflector to bounce much-needed light into dark areas of the shot. You can buy reflectors, but one made from a piece of card and silver foil can work just as well.
 

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Street photography is a deeply personal pursuit that somehow produces a shocking number of identical results. If you’ve ever wondered how so many photographers end up making the same choices, here are twelve easy steps to help you join them. 

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Manfrotto ONE Photo is a premium, hybrid support system designed to bridge the gap between photography and videography for modern content creators. The original ONE Hybrid features a quick-release system for swapping heads in seconds, a versatile column that can shift between vertical and horizontal positions (Q90), and a built-in leveling base, making it a robust solution for both photo stills and cinematic video. 

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Cameras can identify human eyes at 30 meters. AI retouching erases decades from a face in seconds. Color grading that required a professional colorist and a full day of work in 2010 now runs automatically on your phone. By every measurable standard, we are living in the most technically perfect era photography has ever produced. 

And the market is actively walking away from all of it.

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Architectural and design photography pays more than standard MLS listing work and runs on a completely different mindset. If you are tired of tight timelines, volume pricing, and rushing from house to house, this shift changes who hires you and how you get paid. 

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Dynamic range gets tossed around every time a new camera launches, usually framed as a make-or-break spec. You’re told more stops equal better images, but that claim deserves a harder look. 

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Choosing a camera system in 2026 feels harder than ever because the differences are smaller than they’ve ever been. You can get strong results from almost any brand, so the real question is what keeps pulling someone back to one system over time. 

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The Fujifilm GFX100RF is a 100 megapixel medium format camera built for detail, depth, and serious files. Is it right for you?  

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With good cameras becoming more reasonably priced and nearly all phones having one built-in, photography's something that most people can now easily dabble in. Even though this is true, there are still people out there, kids for example, who haven't picked up a camera before and need a little guidance. So, that brings us on to our ten basic photography tips to teach someone new to photography.

1. Hold The Camera Correctly

This may seem like a really obvious thing to be telling someone, but camera shake, which can occur when you're not holding the camera correctly, is a problem those who are new to photography face. In fact, those who use mobile phones to take photos and hold one hand out while trying to press the shutter button will know all too well how it can result in blurry, wonky shots. To stop this, hold your camera/smartphone with two hands, quite close to your body, position your feet shoulder-width apart to give yourself a more stable base to shoot from.
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If you're using the LCD to compose your shot don't stick your arms out too far in front of you and keep your arms/elbows tucked in when possible.

Before you take your shot, make sure your fingers aren't over the flash (if using it) or blocking the lens and keep a firm grip of your camera but don't squeeze too tightly as you can cause the camera to move, resulting in shake.
 

2. Support

Having your arms tucked close to your sides and standing as still as possible will stop any blur caused by movement from spoiling your shot. Don't move your camera/phone away as soon as you've clicked your shutter button either as shutter lag can mean your camera's still processing the shot so you'll end up with a blurry photo of another part of the scene rather than the person or object you want a photo of.

Using a tripod will keep the camera still and help keep shake to a minimum. There are various light-weight, easy to use models which are designed to be used with smaller cameras.

If you don't have a tripod, use a nearby solid object as a support or lean against a wall, tree or whatever object you can find that won't move. 
 

3. Breathing

Being conscious of your breathing can further minimise shake. Some suggest taking a deep breath, holding it, taking your shot and exhaling while others prefer to do it the other way around. It's not something that's recommended for very long exposures though!

4. Hold The Camera Straight

Check the framing of your shot before hitting the shutter button as having a photo where it looks like everything's about to slide out of frame's easily done. Having said that, there are times when shooting on an angle can work really well but most of the time, you'll want your horizons to be straight. Using a tripod can help as some models have built-in spirit levels which can tell you when the tripod's not straight. There are the occasions where the spirit level will tell you the shot's wonky but your eye will know different so trust your instincts on these occasions.

 

5. Different Modes

Camera modes are there to help you capture the best possible images you can so learn what they're for and switch to them when needed. There's also aperture and shutter priority which give you more control over how your camera takes photos and are a great way to start your journey into the manual world. For more tips take a look at these tutorials:

• Camera Modes
• Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority

As well as using different modes for different situations, have a go at shooting from different angles and positions too.

 

 

6. Shutter Button

Don't be too heavy-handed with the shutter button as this can cause the camera to move which can mean you end up with a slightly blurred shot.

Another important thing to learn about the shutter button is that it can be pressed halfway to focus your shot. This can be used in all shooting situations but is particularly important for shots where your camera doesn't know what your main focus point is and as a result, you end up with blur in the wrong part of the shot. An example of this would be when you position your subject to the left or right of the shot, leaving more space towards the centre and opposite side. As your subject is off-centre your camera may not think they're what you want to focus on and as a result, they'll be blurry while you'll have a background that's nicely in focus. However, using focus lock (half-pressing the shutter) will stop this from happening. Have a look at our previous tutorial for more tips on how to use this: Focus Lock.

7. Backgrounds

Check the background for unsightly items and objects sticking out of your subject's head. If you're not planning on throwing your background out of focus (some drive modes do this automatically) so it's blurred, make sure it's not too distracting or cluttered.

 

8. Fill The Frame

Use the optical zoom on your camera to bring your subject closer, filling the frame and creating more interest. A person can look dwarfed in a wide landscape or surrounded by buildings so use your zoom so you don't lose them in the frame. If you're using a camera phone which doesn't have an optical zoom use your feet to move you closer to your subject rather than using the digital zoom which can lower the quality of the shot. 

 

9. Focus Point

A shot needs a focal point otherwise your eyes will be left searching the image and they won't find anywhere to settle. You can have more than one focal point but make sure the point that's secondary doesn't fight your main focal point to be the centre of attention. Once you know what your main focal point is there are various compositional tricks you can perform which includes using various elements within the frame to draw the eye to one focus point, you can adjust your framing to make a more pleasing composition or zoom in to really focus on your subject, eliminating other items in the process.

 

10. Shoot Different Subjects

Many professional photographers focus on one type of photography, but this isn't something you need to do straight away. Experiment with various subjects, learning how each needs to be approached differently in the process. It'll also give you the chance to find out which you enjoy shooting the most so if you do want to start shooting more regularly, you'll have a particular subject you can work on perfecting.

Don't be afraid to take lots of shots either as getting out there and actually pressing the shutter button is the best way to learn. Do take the time to evaluate your work too so you know what needs to be improved and just as importantly, know what techniques work successfully. You can also ask other photographers, family members and friends for their feedback too as sometimes they'll see things you've missed. Finally, make sure you have fun and enjoy taking photos! 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

The M5 MacBook Pro represents a fundamental shift in how Apple builds its pro-level chips, and the results are nothing short of impressive. I've been putting it through its paces over the past few days, and here are my thoughts. 

I've been testing the 16-inch model equipped with the M5 Pro (18-core CPU, 20-core GPU, 64 GB RAM, 4 TB SSD, Nano-Texture Display, Space Black), pushing it through creative, computational, and everyday workflows to see how it stacks up against its predecessor, the M4 MacBook Pro. Here's what I found.

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I know exactly where this starts: standing in front of the fridge, door open, chilly air spilling out, pretending I’m just “checking what I have” when I already know every box and canister by heart. 

On the outside, it’s just a normal family fridge: milk, leftovers, a suspicious jar of pickles. But crack open the deli drawer and you hit the real nerve center of my photography: a chaotic, overstuffed archive of hope, anxiety, nostalgia, and way too many “special occasion” rolls that never seem to meet a special-enough occasion.

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You close the car door, and then it hits you like a stealthy ton of bricks: silence. I don't know about you, but for me, when I am in the throes of such profound silence, an unacknowledged sense of anxiety starts to creep in. It is the undeniable truth that, even with a camera in hand, I am alone. 

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