Photography News

There is no shortage of talented photographers. Every year, more people buy a camera, launch a website, announce their new business, and genuinely believe they are about to build something sustainable. Many of them never do. 

That's not because photography is impossible to make money from, or because the market is completely saturated, or because only a lucky few can succeed. Most photography businesses fail for much simpler reasons: weak foundations, poor pricing, inconsistent marketing, avoidable burnout, and a misunderstanding of what clients are actually paying for.

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Most photographers hit a wall where their shots feel technically fine but visually flat. Knowing why that happens is the first step to fixing it, and a handful of specific, repeatable mistakes are almost always responsible. 

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Infrared photography turns familiar landscapes into something almost otherworldly, with blown-out white foliage, dark skies, and a contrast you simply can't replicate in post.  

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Fujifilm's GFX system produces some of the most detailed, tonally rich files available to working photographers today, and the lens lineup is both the system's greatest strength and its most significant financial commitment. After six years of building out a GFX kit, Samuel Elkins has opinions on what actually earns its place in the bag and what doesn't. 

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The Fujifilm X-E5 is a compact, rangefinder-style APS-C camera with a 40-megapixel sensor, in-body stabilization, and a $1,700 body-only price tag. That combination sounds compelling on paper, but the real question is whether the image quality holds up when you push past the base ISO. 

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Is the old way of retouching dead? With various AI plugins, the world of classical retouching is definitely changing. Recently, I tried out Retouch4Me and some of their plugins, and these are my thoughts as a working pro on whether it is something that would fit into my workflow or not, as well as where it excels and where I find it to struggle more. Retouch4Me has a suite of different plugins across frequency separation, dodging, burning, healing, cloning, fabric removal, dust removal on a backdrop, and many more. 

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Have you ever dreamed of stumbling across a Rolleiflex for $180, or a Widelux for $1,400? 

 

These are exactly the kind of deals waiting for you at Karachi's Hakeem Centre in Pakistan, as captured by Karl Rock in this incredible video.

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As we dream of jetting off to warmer climates in search of sea, sun and some scenic shots to photograph, we thought we'd put together a collection of top travel tutorials you really should have a look at before you head off with your case packed and photographic gear ready.

 

1. How To Improve Your Travel Photography Portraits Instantly

We share our tips on how to successfully photograph the people who live in the place you're travelling to with kit advice, tips on framing and more. 

  2. Six Awesome Travel Food Photography Tips For That Perfect Instagram Shot

As well as portraits and shots of beaches why not take a few photos of the plates of food you purchase? After all, getting your smartphone out before you chow down is the normal thing to do nowadays, isn't it?

 

3. How To Photograph Ruins in 5 Easy Steps

Historical ruins such as churches, castles and abbeys decorate our countryside and seaside towns but you'll also find a few smaller, but still impressive ruins closer to home. Walls, arches and columns are still dotted around a few towns and villages which are still photogenic even if there's not much of the structure left to photograph. If you're off on your travels, have a look online and at local tourism centres to find out what ruins are near to where you're staying.

 

 

 

4. How To Keep Shooting During Those Hot, Sunny Days

If you're heading off on holiday here are a few tips to help you keep taking photos when it's hot outside. Plus, as well as looking after your gear, don't forget to look after yourself. It may seem obvious now, but it's easy to get away with taking photos and the small things such as reapplying sunscreen and having a drink of water can be forgotten.

 

5. Ten Safety Tips For When Traveling With A Camera 

Here's a quick list of quick but essential tips to help you keep your camera safe while on holiday. 

 

6. Learn To Convey A Sense Of Place And Culture With Your Travel Shots

When shooting travel images, as well as showing people back home that you had a really great time and that it was sunny every day, try capturing shots that convey a sense of place and culture as well. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

In most cases, when manufacturers moved from DSLRs to mirrorless cameras, this also meant a new mount to accommodate the reduced back focus distance. No longer did lenses have to be designed with the DSLR mirror box in mind. The main consequence is that we might be left with an impressive collection of fine DSLR lenses with a dwindling supply of new bodies to use them with. As technology developed further, we would need new lenses along with the resulting expense. The answer is, of course, a lens adapter, enabling the old lenses to be used on the new cameras. Ideally, that would include transmission of data and full operation of AF and exposure information.

The Canon solution is the EF-EOS R AF Mount Adapter, at a price as we might expect. Enter Meike, with their own version of the adapter range, plus quite a few additional filters of their own. The Meike adapter range is much more affordable, and Meike has a growing and impressive reputation for efficient, well made kit, so this makes a very interesting proposition.

Armed with the 26MP Canon EOS RP body plus the very fine Canon EOS EF 50mm f/1.8 lens, let's see how the Meike adapter brings these two together.

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Handling and Features

The version of the adapter provided for review is the MK-EFTR-C, with a drop-in filter facility and two drop-in filters provided. These are the V-ND, a variable neutral density filter, plus a clear filter. Including the V-ND, the adapter weighs in at a featherweight 136.8g. Dimensions are a trim 73.0mm x 24.7mm. 

There are electronic connections and AF is fully supported. It is quite clear that the adapter is very well made, from the look and feel of the components to the smooth action when bayoneting either lens to the adapter or the adapter to the R body. Although tempting perhaps to think an adapter contributes little of its own and is just an interface, in fact, there is much more to it than that. Apart from the need for precision in manufacture, of which more in a moment, there is the need for rapid AF performance and correct transmission of EXIF and other data.

 

 

To ensure absolute precision in the connection of the lenses, a couple of shims are provided and these can be used if the tolerances should happen to be slightly out. There was no evidence of that, so they were not needed, but it's good to know that should it be necessary, the point is well covered.

There are several versions of the Meike adapter. The one provided for the review is the MK-EFTR-C, which includes a drop-in filter V-ND plus a clear filter. V-ND is a variable neutral density filter ND-3 to ND-500 mounted in a beautifully designed drop-in system that is compatible with the original Canon version. There is also available an MK-EFTR-B, which is a version with the control ring. A third option is MK-EFTR-CPL, with a drop in polarising filter. The plastic case for the storage of filters not in use is another design gem. This all adds up to a very efficient way of storing and changing filters. This is so much easier than using screw in front filters and, of course, also means just one set of filters regardless of the lens in use. 

 

 

Rotating filters are especially easy to use, as a small wheel is provided that enables adjustment. The obvious application would be the polariser, or as in the case of the version provided, a variable ND. This also extends to a whole series of filters from Meike and the leaflet provided in the box lists some 22 options. Admittedly, these are mostly various ND filters, plus the variable ND, the clear filter and the C-PL. The “Creative filters” include various star, streak and rainbow effects.

However, the basic application is, of course, the ability to use Canon EF and EF-S lenses on the new Canon R bodies, specifically EOS-R, RP, R5, R6, R7, R10, C70 and Red Komodo. Let's now have a look at how the adapter performs in use and see whether we have a viable and reliable alternative to the Canon original product.

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Performance

First job is to align the correct colour of dot with the EF (red) or EFR-S (white) index on the mount, and the lens smoothly clicks into place. The fitting end of the adapter, with its generous seal, offers a moisture and dust resistant interface with the camera body. After that, we can use our EF or EF-S lenses as they were intended, and of course, there are many fine lenses that have long working lives ahead of them yet.

The drop-in filter system is magnificent, so easy to use and such an excellent idea. The filters themselves do not seem to create any CA effects, perhaps the very slightest sign of an increase in fringing at the mid point of the V-ND, but even then very difficult to induce. As we rotate the V-ND, the colour balance does not seem to be severely affected, certainly not in any way that is obvious to the eye, although a slight shift might be expected at high values approaching the maximum.

AF operation is also unimpaired and the camera operates just as it would normally be expected to.

The instructions suggest that the filter should be removed before installing on the camera, something that might easily be forgotten. The idea that a filter should always be installed is a more obvious one. Failing to do this would result in light leaking in to the side of the lens, running the risk of creating flare effects.

 

MEIKE Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Sample Photos Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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  Value For Money

The kit as provided, the [AMUK]Meike MK-EFTR-C Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter|Meike+MK-EFTR-C+Drop-in+Filter+Mount+Adapter[/AMUK] with V-ND and Clear filters, is priced at £135.99.

There are other kit versions:

• [AMUK]MK-EFTR-B with Control Ring|Meike+MK-EFTR-B[/AMUK], £79.99
• [AMUK]MK-EFTR-CPL Circular Polarising Filter for MK-EFTR-C|Meike+MK-EFTR-CPL[/AMUK], £55.99
• [AMUK]MK-EFTR-VND Variable ND filter|Meike+MK-EFTR-VND[/AMUK], £55.99

To put this in perspective, some Canon original options:

• Canon mount adapter with control ring, £239
• Canon drop-in filter mount adapter with C-PL filter A, £359
• Canon drop-in filter mount adapter with V-ND filter A, £499

Those figures are pretty dramatic and in terms of pricing the Meike looks very attractive indeed.

 

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Verdict

Meike is pitching in here with an excellent product at a very attractive price point compared to the OEM version from Canon. There may be those who, regardless, will always opt for the manufacturer's original version for any and all accessories, and that's fair enough, although we know it comes at a price. Manufacturers such as Meike compete with keen pricing, but at a quality level that does the job and does it well. The irony is that often the after market items have features that extend and even improve on the original. Meike is a manufacturer that does this very well, and this latest adapter is a great example of a really well designed and manufactured item that can hold its head high, at a price level that brings it into range for many more photographers.

The Meike adapter is Highly Recommended.

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Pros

• Very well designed and made
• Efficient and reliable operation
• Keenly priced
• Enables full use of DSLR lenses on mirrorless bodies
• Moisture and dust resistance

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Cons

• Some slightly fiddly instructions re shims, should they be needed

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=4.5|R_performance=5|R_value=5|R_overall=4.5|A_level=4.5|A_text=Highly Recommended – A well priced alternative to the OEM version, enabling continued use of DSLR lenses on mirrorless cameras.|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

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Photography publications, this one included, spend a lot of time telling you why a dedicated camera is worth buying. And it is. The sensor is bigger, the lenses are interchangeable, the depth of field is real rather than simulated, and the raw files give you editing latitude that phone JPEGs cannot touch.  

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    It's coming up to that time of year when many families start to think about jetting off to warmer climates or simply heading to the Britsh coast to escape reality for a while. An accessory that's guaranteed to be packed is a camera but instead of just capturing shots of family members in pools and on the beach, why not turn your attention to food photography and capture some mouth-watering images of the plates you're served and stalls you pass on trips. 

 

1. Where Will You Be Taking Your Photos? 

Where you're working can sometimes determine what equipment you can use. If you're in a busy restaurant there's probably not room for a tripod so you'll have to work hand-held or use a smaller support that can fit on the table. But if you're out in the street photographing food stalls and the people who run them, they'll be more room to use a tripod, although if you plan on moving around a lot, you'll probably better taking a monopod with you as they're easier to walk with and take up less room.
 

2. Think About Presentation 

Restaurants want to impress you so food is, generally, presented and displayed well already which means you don't have to play the role of the designer. Do look out for attractive produce though, particularly if you're at a hotel where you can serve yourself. Make sure fruit isn't bruised and colours are vibrant. If you're photographing meat make sure it's not overcooked and lookout for herbs and pepper grinders as a sprinkling of pepper or a few green leaves can make your photograph looking more appetising. Also, look out for crumbs and sauce that may be sat on the side of the plate as this can distract the viewer.

 

 

3. Consider Using Repetition 

If you can pick your own food, repetition works well and three items on a plate will often look better than two. Don't think you always have to centre your subject and if you're working with tall items such as ice creams and coffees in glasses, switch your orientation to portrait.

  4. Backgrounds Shouldn't Distract

Try and keep your background uncluttered but if you're in a busy restaurant where this isn't possible, just use a wide aperture to throw the background out of focus or you could try placing a plain jacket/cloth over a chair and positioning so it sits in the background of your shot. If the chairs are too low use the back of a menu, so long as it's plain, as your background, placing it behind your plate. If it's coloured make sure there's no colour cast on your food/plate, particularly if the crockery is white and a shallow depth of field will help keep all attention on the food in the foreground of your shot.

Don't forget to take some wider shots of the serving area too. In hotels particularly you'll find several buffet carts, chefs preparing food and guests deciding what to eat which can make interesting shots. 

 

 

5. Stick To Natural Light

Use natural light where possible so if you can pick where you sit, choose a window seat or better still, sit outside. You need to avoid using direct flash as your food won't look very appetising so make sure you've switched it off, particularly in low light situations where some flashes will automatically fire.

 

6. Get Out On The Street 

Away from restaurants, you can find small stalls, especially in markets, that make and sell food. If you want to snap a few shots of the stallholder it can help if you actually show some interest in the food they are producing. It's not always advised to eat the food they're cooking but you can ask them questions and spend some time actually appreciating their skill. If you're working close up never shoot without asking permission first and if they say no, just move on to another stall instead of arguing with them. For those who do agree, fill the frame with their face as you'll find they'll create plenty of interesting expressions when concentrating on getting their creation perfect.

If your subject is working under a canopy your camera can get confused by the brighter space that surrounds them and your shot can end up a little dark. If this is the case, just lock your exposure and recompose the shot.

 

If the weather's not playing ball or you're on a street that's shaded from the sun don't be tempted to use your flash as this can destroy the feeling/atmosphere you're trying to create. Just try using a wider aperture or a higher ISO and if you find the higher ISOs make your shot a little grainy, try turning the shot black and white as it can work rather well.

Another option is to use a tripod and slower shutter speeds which will blur the movement of anyone who passes through your shot, however, if you're focusing on someone who is moving between a chopping board and a stove, the blur can emphasise the speed they're working at. The slower shutter speeds can also be used to capture a few closer shots of flames, just make sure you don't burn yourself and don't catch any hot plates and pans by mistake.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

You feel it, or you don't. There's no middle ground.  

I didn't become a football photographer by chasing the perfect action shot. I became one by putting myself where things are unstable, emotional, unpredictable—where football stops being a sport and turns into something else entirely. Something human. Something where the emotions are the real goal for a photographer like me.

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Photoshop's latest update quietly added two masking features to Adobe Camera Raw that most people haven't noticed yet. If you shoot anything with a complex edge, like trees against a bright sky, these tools change how you handle exposure and color adjustments. 

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Street photography is one of the hardest genres to stay sharp at if you only do it occasionally. Rust sets in fast, and when you're dropped into a busy city with a camera, the gap between what you see and what you capture can feel enormous. 

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Broadcasting an NBA game takes more gear than you'd probably guess, and the skill required to operate it is even more surprising. The broadcast setup for a single playoff game involves dozens of cameras, miles of cable, and a live production that makes Hollywood look slow. 

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Choosing between a budget telephoto zoom and a pro-grade lens isn't always obvious, and the answer depends on more than just image quality. This video makes the case that spending four times more doesn't automatically mean getting four times more usefulness, especially when your shooting style may not demand what the expensive glass actually offers. 

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Tadpoles tend to be more prevalent at this time of year and, as they take about 12 weeks or so to become froglets, it's a good time to take some photographs.

 

1. What Gear Do I Need? 

A macro lens of 90 to 100mm is perfect, providing you have access to get close to the surface of the water. If not you will need a longer lens with a close focus facility. A tripod is handy to keep the camera steady as you take the photo, but you'll need one that has legs that splay out so you can get the camera closer to the pond's surface when using a macro lens. It's also better if the centre column swivels over 90-degrees to act as a macro arm so you can position the camera over the water's edge and not at an angle. It may be easier to lay down on the floor (use a waterproof sheet to keep you dry) and use your arms as support. A polarising filter will reduce any surface reflections allowing you to see more clearly under the water.

 

2. Follow One Tadpole

Tadpoles tend to be quite active but move around in spurts. One minute they stop to presumably rest and then swim off to another spot. When they're active you need to hone in on one and follow it around, taking shots as it rests. Use a fast shutter speed to prevent tail blur, and increase the ISO if you need a smaller aperture.

Also, watch for tadpoles taking in air - they swim quickly to the surface and gulp air in. At this point, you can get a head-on shot with mouth wide open, but you often have to be quick as it's fast action.

 

3. Make It Easy For Yourself

Look around the edges of the pond for the easiest shots. It's here where the tadpoles will be feeding off vegetation around the side of the pond, especially when they have no legs as they are not yet meat-eaters.  In the shot above the tadpole was slowly pecking away at the edge of the pond causing debris to burst back. This microscopic activity comes to life when a macro lens is at its extended range.

If the sun is out, make sure you don't get the distracting rim where the water touches the side. This will appear as a white burnt out outline. Take the shots slightly away from the edge pointing inwards to conceal this outline. Shoot when the tadpoles are nearer to the surface to prevent the cloudy water making the image look dark.

4. Older Tadpoles

When the tadpoles have legs they become carnivorous (meat-eaters) so you can pop the odd worm, snail or piece of chicken in and watch them gather around in a feeding frenzy.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Tamron are producing some very different and exciting lenses, primarily zooms, that do not necessarily follow the norm for focal length ranges. However, they all make sense when the intended applications are defined. This new 35-100mm optic is indeed an unusual choice of range, however, for arts, sports, people and travel photography, it could just be the compact, fast and efficient companion that is needed. Less expensive and more compact than the well liked 35-150mm, there is considerable potential for especially travel and general photography. There is much to be said for travelling light. Let's couple the new lens up with the 42MP Sony A7R III body and see how it fares across various Yorkshire locations, including Whitby, Pickering and Hutton-le-Hole, both in rain and sun.

 

Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD Handling and Features

First, our tour of the lens, starting with the provided petal lens hood. This bayonets cleanly into place and remains firmly attached even without any locking catch. Within the bayonet fit for the hood is a standard 67mm filter thread, a size that many Tamron zooms have in common. The front element is treated with a Fluorine coating to help repel dust, grease and moisture. The lens is weather sealed and it stood up well to the usual Whitby rain.

This Sony FE full frame version weighs in at a modest 565g. The Nikon Z version weighs slightly more, at 575g. Dimensions are 80.6mm x 119.2mm (FE) and 80.6mm x 121.5mm (Z). 

 

 

The manual focusing ring has just the right amount of resistance, electronic in operation and so, as might be expected, utterly smooth. Behind this is the focus set button and also a three position switch to allocate three custom settings. Closest focus is 0.22m at 35mm, for a maximum magnification of 1:3.3, and 0.65m at 100mm, for a maximum magnification of 1:5.9. AF is driven via Tamron's VXD motor, which stands for Voice coil eXtreme torque Drive. This is virtually silent and locks on with speed and accuracy.

The zoom ring does extend the lens, but is still impressively smooth and does not upset the balance of the camera/lens combination. There are clear and accurate markings at 35mm, 50mm, 70mm, 85mm and 100mm. Whilst it is no doubt true that the range is somewhat narrower than many options, we gain close focusing, a compact form factor and a fast and constant f/2.8 maximum aperture. If the need was felt, then a small prime wide angle could be the most obvious choice for a companion lens. In use, the need for this was not felt and choosing the shooting position appropriately seemed more than satisfactory.

 

 

Optical construction is 15 elements in 13 groups, including 1 XLD (Extra Low Dispersion), 2 LD (Low Dispersion) and 3 GM (glass moulded aspheric). There are 9 blades to the diaphragm and the result is a very well rounded aperture, even when closed down. Tamron's excellent and well proven BBAR-G2 multi-coating is utilised.

There is also a USB-C connection, and as is increasingly the case, this allows the lens to be customised and operated via the Tamron Utility App, for iOS, Android and PC. The PC version allows firmware updates. As well as a cable connection, the new Bluetooth device TAMRON-LINK can be used to connect remotely. This is unobtrusive and may be a more convenient way to connect.

Although designed for Sony or Nikon full frame mirrorless cameras, the lens can also be used on the crop sensor bodies. The “35mm equivalent” would then be 52.5-150mm. This is arguably not as useful a range, but it is technically possible. As it is, the balance of the lens on the Sony A7R III is excellent and the operation is smooth and faultless. For general shooting, it works well and produces some gorgeously crisp, colourful images. 

Now on to the technical tests to see how the lens performs.

 

 

Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD Performance

At 35mm, central sharpness is excellent from f/2.8 right through to f/11 and remains very good at f/16 and f/22. The edges are excellent from f/2.8 to f/8, very good at f/11 and f/16 and fair at f/22.

At 70mm, central sharpness is excellent from f/2.8 to f/5.6, very good from f/8 to f/16 and still good at f/22. The edges are likewise excellent from f/2.8 to f/5.6, very good from f/8 to f/16 and good at f/22.

At 100mm, central sharpness is very good at f/2.8, excellent from f/2.8 to f/8, very good at f/11 and f/16 and fair at f/22. The edges are very good from f/2.8 to f/8 and fair from f/11 to f/22.

This is a superb performance that is also well maintained even close up. Kudos to Tamron for producing such a well balanced and high quality optic.

 

Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is very impressively under control throughout the range and further correction in software is unlikely to be necessary. There is virtually no sign of colour fringing.

Distortion is very close to zero. Some barrelling can be measured, but the figures are very low, -0.24% at 35mm, -0.09% at 70mm and -0.06% at 100mm.

 

Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is the smoothness of gradation in the out of focus areas in an image. This is an aesthetic judgement rather than a measurement, but we know attractive bokeh when we see it. Here we find really very beautiful, smooth out of focus backgrounds, relaxed and natural with not a trace of raggedness. To combine this smoothness alongside the very high degree of sharpness at the focused plane is a skilled trick to carry off, and Tamron's designers seem to be able to hit the spot with consummate ease.

The flare performance is also excellent, clearly the design, internal baffling and coatings are all combining to do an excellent job of suppressing internal reflections. 

Vignetting is very well controlled.

 

Aperture 35mm 70mm 100mm f/2.8 -1.6 -1.3 -1.3 f/4 -1.3 -1.2 -1.1 f/5.6 -1.3 -1.1 -1.1 f/8 -1.2 -1 -0.9 f/11 -1.2 -1 -0.9 f/16 -1.1 -1 -0.9 f/22 -1.1 -1 -0.9

 

Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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  Value For Money

The [AMUK]Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD|Tamron+35-100mm+f/2.8+Di+III+VXD[/AMUK] lens is priced at £799.

A few possible alternatives, but with a variety of different specifications. FE lenses are for Sony full frame and Z lenses are for Nikon Z full frame. 

• [AMUK]Samyang FE 35-150mm f/2-2.8|Samyang+FE+35-150mm+f/2-2.8[/AMUK], £854
• [AMUK]Sigma 28-105mm f/2.8 DG DN Art|Sigma+28-105mm+f/2.8+DG+DN+Art[/AMUK], £1399
• [AMUK]Sony FE 50-150mm f/2 GM|Sony+FE+50-150mm+f/2+GM[/AMUK], £3699
• [AMUK]Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS|Sony+FE+24-105mm+f/4+G+OSS[/AMUK], £899
• [AMUK]Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM II|Sony+FE+24-70mm+f/2.8+GM+II[/AMUK], £1899
• [AMUK]Tamron 35-150mm f/2-2.8 Di III VXD|Tamron+35-150mm+f/2-2.8+Di+III+VXD[/AMUK], £1599
• [AMUK]Tamron 20-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DG Contemporary|Tamron+20-200mm+f/3.5-6.3+DG+Contemporary[/AMUK], £799
• [AMUK]Nikkor Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II|Nikkor+Z+24-70mm+f/2.8+S+II[/AMUK], £2299
• [AMUK]Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S|Nikkor+Z+24-120mm+f/4+S[/AMUK], £849

VFM does include price, performance, handling and is not just a question of one of these. Overall, the new Tamron lens looks excellent VFM in all of these different respects.

 

 

Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD Verdict

The lens acquits itself extremely well as a travel companion and general purpose optic. It can cover events, portraits, small groups, close ups and even maintains its performance when shooting flat text or documents. The offset is, of course, a relatively restricted focal length range, taking us back to the long gone days when 35mm was considered the standard wide angle lens. Wide angle photographers might just look for a different lens, or carry a small, wider prime lens to cover situations where 35mm is just not wide enough. Likewise, at the telephoto end, if it isn't long enough, then perhaps a different choice.

Having said that, as a travel companion that delivers superb quality in a compact package, these things may not in reality be much of an obstacle. This reviewer found the lens to be a very likeable companion and not at all restrictive in terms of focal length. The results were beautiful and obtained without carrying around a mass of kit.

Combining ease of use, value for money, a compact form factor and superb results, the lens has to be an Editor's Choice.

 

Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD Pros

• Excellent sharpness
• Minimal distortion
• Fast, accurate and virtually silent AF
• Excellent flare resistance
• CA well controlled
• Moisture and dust sealing
• Magnification 1:3.3 at 35mm
• Modest vignetting
• Beautiful bokeh
• Affordable pricing

 

Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD Cons

• Modest focal length range

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=5|R_performance=5|R_value=5|R_overall=5|A_level=5|A_text=Editor's Choice – A high class performance from this versatile, compact and fast zoom lens, perfect for travel, sports and people.|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

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Public gardens are bursting at the seams with blooms of colour and as most are free it means you can spend a few hours taking great floral photographs with no extra cost.

Public gardens vary in size and some even attract photographers because they are home to a particular species of flower. When's the best time to visit will depend on what flowers you're trying to capture in your images but generally there's something to capture all year round. Don't overlook photographing topiary, water features, ponds and streams too. 

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What Camera Gear Will I Need? 

When you're heading out the door, make sure you have your camera bag because as well your sandwiches and a flask of tea, you'll also need a few lenses. As you could find yourself changing lenses frequently a sling bag with side access could make it easier and quicker to reach for a particular piece of kit but a camera backpack that's designed to carry several lenses, camera body and accessories will also be fine. 

When it comes to lenses, a wide-angle lens will give you sweeping shots of the colourful gardens while your telephoto will get you close and your macro lens even closer still.

Pack a polariser to stop glare and help enhance the colourful blooms and a reflector will bounce light where it's needed. If it's shade you need your own shadow will work perfectly well but a piece of plain card will also do the trick.

Take a notebook and pen along too as once you're back home all those Latin names will be long forgotten and you'll need to know them so you can title your images correctly.

 

Make Sure You Contact The Garden Staff

If you give the public garden a quick call you'll be able to find out what's blooming and when. You'll also be able to check if there are any restrictions such as: do you need to always stick to the path? Or, can you get close to take a shot of a flower head that completely fills the frame? And, are tripods allowed? If not, you'll need a sturdy hand and very still air to stop blur spoiling your shot. You could also pack a beanbag or use a wall, bench or another type of support that you'll find in the garden.

 

 

What's The Best Time Of Day?

Make sure you arrive early as the light's better, there's less chance of breeze and there will be fewer people to get in the way of your shot.
 

What Type Of Images Can I Take? 

It's very easy to be lazy in a public garden and stay in one place but there's lots of space and plenty to see so make sure you take advantage of that.

Change your focal length, create a different angle and move your point of view. Use a wide-angle to establish where you are but then move in closer for frame-filling shots that burst with colour and detail. Think out of the box a little and be different if you can. Set your camera up on a tripod (if allowed) and shoot a time-lapse series of a bud opening or find some plants which are dying to give your flower photography a different slant.

Look for paths that will draw the eye in and gateways that will frame your shot. These patterns and props are fun to look for but if you ask the garden's staff or do a quick search online you'll soon find a few tips that point you in the right direction as well.

 

 

How To Deal With Wind & Shake

As with all types of flower photography, the wind is your enemy (that's unless you want to create blur of course). A tripod will help reduce camera shake when the wind's blowing and a cable release or the camera's self-timer will also help you take a steady shot. If tripods aren't allowed you'll just have to sit and admire the garden until the wind stops blowing. You could hold the flower steady with a piece of wire but this might be frowned upon so check first.

 

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The humble "Nifty Fifty." Many of us own a fast 50mm. However, for some reason, we almost always reach for the ultra-wide angle lens for night photography. And for good reason. They capture much of the night sky. But there are strong reasons why you should consider the "Nifty Fifty" instead, and it could improve your photography! 

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