Photography News

 

1. Where To Go? 

Meadows with wildflowers growing in abundance are great places for photographing butterflies but please don't trespass on other people's property. You could also visit one of the many nature reserves or public gardens found right across the UK.

If you can't get out and about to photograph butterflies it's worth growing plants in your garden or window boxes etc. that will attract butterflies. These include Aubrieta, Buddleia, Primrose, Honeysuckle, Lavender, Lilac, Marigold, Phlox, Mint, and Thyme. Get to know which plants caterpillars feed upon, too, as you can plant them in your garden or look out for them on your travels.
 

2. Buy A Guide

A butterfly guide book can be very useful in identifying the species whilst out in the field. Occasionally, you may come across a species which is rare or not even native to the UK, it’s handy to know if you have spotted a rare species or even one in decline so you can report your sighting. Of course, you can also use the internet once back home for your research. 

 

 

3. Time Of Day

The best time of day to maximise your chances of photographing butterflies will be early morning or in the evening as they don't move around as quickly. At these times, you may even be lucky enough to see one emerging or covered in dew which can make for that extra special photograph. 

Try to stand/approach them so your shadow doesn't cover them as they'll tend to fly off in search of a sunnier spot. 

If you start out early and temperatures are relatively cool then you may get lucky and find a few sleeping. By approaching slowly and quietly you may be able to move distracting stems etc. out of the way without disturbing your subject, to help with a more pleasing composition. Do take care not to destroy their habitat as many species are declining in numbers.
 

4. Shutter Speeds & Set-Up

Another way to increase your chances of capturing a good shot is by switching to burst mode / continuous shooting. By doing so your camera will rapidly take a series of shots.

Instead of chasing a butterfly around your garden, it can be easier to find a plant you know they like and set up nearby. Then you just have to wait patiently for your subject to land on the part of the plant you're framed upon. It can be a little hit and miss and you will, more than likely, end up waiting a while but on a warm summer's day, having to sit out in your garden isn't really a bad way to pass a few hours!

 

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In February 1996, five of the biggest names in photography, companies that spent the rest of the century trying to bury each other, walked onto one stage in Las Vegas and formally launched a film format they had built together in secret. The five of them had already sunk around $500 million into it between them and expected to spend roughly that much again. Fifteen years later almost nobody remembered it existed.

 

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© EISA

 

Nikon's on a roll at the 2026 EISA Awards, landing four accolades that span both camera and lens categories. The recognition covers a solid range of gear, from the specialist ZR video camera to everyday workhorse lenses. The judges clearly valued Nikon's approach to building a complete, capable system. From solo videographers to working photographers, there's something in this award haul worth considering.

 

From Nikon:

Nikon proudly announces its success at the 2026–2027 Expert Imaging and Sound Association (EISA) Awards, receiving four accolades across a range of product categories.

The accolades include:

• The Nikon ZR awarded “Photo/Video Camera 2026-2027"
• The NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II lens awarded “Lens of the Year”
• The NIKKOR Z DX MC 35mm f/1.7 lens taking home “Standard Lens” award
• The NIKKOR Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II lens receiving the “Telephoto Zoom Lens” award

Nikon's cutting-edge dedicated video camera, the ZR, impressed the judges with its advanced subject-tracking autofocus, built-in 7.5-stop image stabilisation, impressive video quality, excellent audio, and large, bright 4-inch screen. Incorporating advanced video codecs and colour technology from Nikon-owned RED, while providing access to the expansive Nikon Z system, the ZR was praised as a unique tool for ambitious videographers.

Nikon's next-gen NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II lens was lauded in its category for its lighter design, enhanced optical performance, and video-friendly internal zoom construction. The lens stood out for its more lightweight design, faster autofocus and improved sharpness at close distances, with the judges describing the lens as a “top-class professional lens without any weaknesses”.

Judges were also impressed by Nikon’s compact NIKKOR Z DX MC 35mm f/1.7 lens, citing its versatile macro capabilities, bright f/1.7 aperture, and excellent optical performance in their acclaim. Judges praised it as the perfect second lens for Nikon DX users, offering the versatility of both a standard and macro lens in a lightweight, compact design.

Nikon’s second-generation NIKKOR Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II lens was recognised for its impressive range of improvements, including a lighter design, faster autofocus, and enhanced optical performance. Featuring improved coatings, an 11-blade aperture for beautifully smooth bokeh, and up to 6 stops of image stabilisation when paired with compatible Nikon cameras, the lens delivers outstanding results for both stills and video.

The four awards showcase Nikon’s continued commitment to world-class design and engineering excellence, empowering photographers and videographers with pioneering equipment that allow them to push the boundaries of creativity and achieve exceptional results.

 

© EISA

 

EISA comments for “Photo/Video Camera 2026-2027" award

With the ZR, Nikon has created a dedicated video camera packed with attractive features at a reasonable price. Incorporating advanced video codecs and colour technology from Nikon-owned RED, videographers get a unique tool with access to the expansive Nikon Z system. Impressive video quality, excellent audio, built-in 7.5-stop image stabilisation, Nikon’s advanced subject-tracking autofocus, and a huge, bright 4” screen provide solo creators and ambitious videographers with a complete, highly capable tool with extensive production potential.

 

© EISA

 

EISA comments for the NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II ”Lens of the Year 2026-2027" award

Nikon has improved its fast standard zoom lens in a number of impressive ways. The Nikon NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II is 130 grams lighter than its predecessor, and it’s better suited for video thanks to internal zoom construction, which makes it easier to operate on a gimbal. Focusing has become even faster with minimal breathing, while sharpness has been improved at shorter distances. The anti-reflective coating is improved and is now class leading. Overall, this results in a top-class professional lens without any weaknesses. It’s true workhorse for professionals and a real investment in image quality for photo enthusiasts.

 

© EISA

 

EISA comments for the NIKKOR Z DX MC 35mm f/1.7 “Standard Lens” award 2026-2027

The NIKKOR Z DX MC 35mm f/1.7 is a real jewel in Nikon’s lens range. The optical construction is designed for DX (APS-C) sensors, and it functions as both a macro lens for close-ups, and a standard lens with relatively high brightness. Compact size, low weight and great sharpness are among its many attractive features. Linear distortion is almost unnoticeable and there’s little vignetting either. Other practical features are weather sealing and inner focusing. The lens covers the same subject area as a 1:1 macro lens for full frame. It’s the perfect second lens for owners of DX-format mirrorless Nikon cameras.

 

© EISA

 

EISA comments for the NIKKOR Z 70-200mm F2.8 VR S II “Telephoto Zoom Lens”award 2025-2026

This second-generation professional telephoto zoom boasts an impressive array of improvements over its already excellent predecessor. The NIKKOR Z 70-200mm F2.8 VR S II is significantly lighter, focuses faster and closer, is perfectly balanced and ideal for both video and stills. With the uncompromising quality of Nikon’s S series, improved coating and 11 aperture blades, this zoom delivers superb image quality and strikingly fine bokeh, whether you’re shooting portraits or following fast athletes. The detachable tripod foot is now Arca-Swiss compatible, while the optical image stabiliser provides 6 stops shake compensation while working together with the camera’s in-body stabilisation. It’s Nikon’s best zoom yet.

Every year, the EISA Awards celebrate those new products that combine the most advanced technology and desirable features with class-leading performance. The EISA Awards extend from the most affordable, high-value products to the most aspirational expressions of modern consumer electronics. Award categories change from year to year, reflecting the evolution of product design and connectivity, but every EISA Award winner remains the very best in its class. 

For more information, please visit the EISA website.

  If used correctly, the empty space you leave in your shots (negative space) can make your photograph more interesting and easier to focus on rather than trying to fill every inch of the frame with interest. Negative space can play several important compositional roles so here are a few tips to help you think more about making the most of what's not in your scene:  

 

1. Reinforce What's Important

The obvious role of negative space is to show the viewer of your image what is and what isn't important in your shot. If there's nothing else fighting for focus, their eyes will be able to settle on your main subject without searching the rest of the shot first.

2. Balance Your Shot

Negative space can make a shot appear more balanced and as a general rule, you need twice as much negative space to the area taken up by your subject. For example, if you shot a close-up portrait and your subject fills the right third of the frame, you'd want the two thirds to the left to be negative space.
 

3. Give Your Shot Context

Of course, there are times, such as when you're shooting environmental portraits where you want to make the most of the size of the place you're taking photos in, when the above rule won't apply.

With environmental portraits, it's often what's around your subject that gives the shot more interest so filling your frame with your subject would mean the context would be lost.

 

 

4. Space For Your Subject

If you do place your subject to one side of your frame make sure they're looking towards the area of negative space. The same goes for action shots where they're running through the frame as generally, your shot will be more compositionally pleasing if they have space to move into. Of course, if you're wanting them to increase the sense of speed or want to make people wonder what they're looking at, position the negative space behind them, almost pushing them out of the frame.

5. Negative Space Doesn't Have To Be 'Empty'

By using one colour in your background when shooting indoors or by throwing it out of focus if you're shooting outdoors, it won't become a point of focus for your viewer so all attention will fall on your main subject. However, sometimes adding blur to your backgrounds will leave your shot with less impact. For example, if you're out shooting portraits and behind your subject is a mountain scene, shooting with a smaller aperture so you get front to back sharpness will exaggerate the amount of negative space around them, giving the shot more meaning and impact as a result.

6. Exaggerate The Negative Space

Take the idea one step further and strip all the colour out of your shot, leaving just the shapes and space around them to tell your story. You could also remove all the textures from the shot by shooting silhouettes.

 

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Apple has announced updated versions of the Mac mini with M6 and Mac mini with M5 Pro, bringing faster CPU, GPU, storage, and AI performance to the compact desktop while adding Wi-Fi 7, Bluetooth 6, faster Ethernet, and genlock support. Preorders open August 25, 2026, with the computers scheduled to begin shipping on September 22, 2026. 

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Apple has announced a new generation of Mac Studio, bringing its M5 Max and M5 Ultra processors to the compact desktop along with faster storage, Thunderbolt 5, Wi-Fi 7, Bluetooth 6, and significantly expanded unified memory options. 

The new Mac Studio with M5 Max starts at $2,499, while the Mac Studio with M5 Ultra starts at $5,499. Preorders opened August 25, 2026, with general availability scheduled for September 22. Configurations with 512 GB of unified memory are expected in late October.

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Apple has announced two new Apple silicon chips aimed at very different levels of desktop computing: M6 for the new Mac mini and M5 Ultra for the new Mac Studio. M6 introduces Apple’s first 2 nm chip design, while M5 Ultra uses a new quad-die architecture to push CPU, GPU, memory, media, and AI performance further at the high end. 

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Two centuries of photography prove some pictures are timeless, but today photographers are forced to pick a lane. Or are we? 

Johannes Brahms’ Sonata No. 1 vibrates from the speakers. Opus 38. I’m told it’s in E minor. Any unsuspecting passersby down below can surely hear it leaching out from these open windows.

His genre may have been classical, but that style sure as hell is Brahms.

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One Adobe employee compared a Creative Cloud to heroin for the business. The subscription you rely on to do your job is also the one built hardest to leave.

 

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Flash portraiture stops most people cold at the same spot: too much gear, too many settings, and no clear order to put it all together. The fix turns out to be a single light, a handful of budget parts, and a repeatable routine you run the same way every session.

 

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A moderately wide prime with an f/1.7 aperture that costs around $176 sounds like a corner-cutting exercise, yet this one holds up on real cameras. Budget glass gives beginners a way into fast primes without draining a bank account, and the tradeoffs decide whether that's a bargain or a regret.

 

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Nikon now sells a full-frame camera under $2,000 that focuses in the dark better than the pricier bodies above it. That claim sounds backward, since the entry-level model is supposed to inherit leftover parts, not outperform the flagship.

 

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Head to the coast on a sunny day or even to your local reservoir and you'll probably find someone skimming along the water, holding onto a sail fasted to a windsurf board or getting pulled along by a boat on a board. The pros make it look easy and their jumps, turns and sheer speed make water sports a great photographic subject.

  1. Kit Choices If you're not up for getting your feet wet you'll need a long telephoto to bring the action to you. A monopod or tripod can also be handy, but not everyone finds them useful, especially when you're panning at quite fast speeds.

For those of you who don't mind braving cold, British water get your wetsuit on to get right in among the action. Here, you can use a slightly shorter lens or even a fisheye to capture some unusual action shots. However, if you're new to this type of photography it's worth sticking with a slightly longer focal length, around 100mm, to keep a safe amount of distance between you and the action. Wides also work well when you want to give your shots context but your subject may look a little small in the frame if you use them on-shore so do check your frame and switch lenses if this is the case.

If you do want to head out into the waves please always think about safety and make sure you can be clearly seen by those on land as well as the sailors around you. Don't get in anyone's way and always be aware of your surroundings.

You'll also need a waterproof camera or waterproof housing for your camera that doesn't like getting wet. If you plan on leaving your camera bag near the shore make sure it's fastened up and if you have one, put a waterproof cover on it to stop spray and water that comes off the windsurfers as they exit the water getting on your not so water-friendly kit. Remember to test your waterproof housing without your kit in it to start to make sure there are no leaks and when you do put your camera inside it, place it in shallow water first before heading out deeper just to double-check the seals etc. are working correctly.

If you're heading to the beach to capture shots of surfers rather than spending some time by your local reservoir, try not to change lenses on the sand as you don't want grains getting inside your kit.

 

2. Speed & Action

Windsurfing and other water sports tend to have quite a lot of pace and action which does mean there's plenty to photograph but as bad light, bad weather and the speed at which they move at makes life difficult, it can be tricky to get a perfect shot.

If you've not photographed this kind of subject before try to find a reservoir where beginners practise as these will be moving at a slower pace so will be easier to keep up with. It's also worth focusing and tracking one individual rather than moving your focus from one person to another and while doing so, try not to get others in-frame who may full attention from your main subject.

If you do want to go after the pros you'll need to crank your shutter speeds up to freeze their movement and have your panning perfected before you arrive so you can keep them in shot. Shutter speeds of 1/100 and above are often needed to capture action in your frame and it's worth switching to continuous shooting mode to increase your chances of capturing that perfect action shot. Auto-focus can work so long as it's continuously tracking your subject and try to leave room for your subject to ride into.

If you want to add an extra sense of pace to your photos try selecting a slightly slower shutter speed (half a second should be enough) and pan at the same speed your subject is moving at to blur the background. You could combine the slower shutter speed panning technique with a pop of flash to freeze your subject against a nicely out of focus, blurred background that will enhance the feeling of speed in your shot.

 

Photo by Josh Waller 

 

3. Framing Advice

Always make sure you've filled the frame as unless there's something interesting such as a giant wave they're jumping, a tiny person in the middle of a mass of water's not really interesting and they'll be completely lost in the image. Watch out for wonky horizons too, although these are quite easily corrected in post-production once you're back home and consider shooting in a vertical as well as a horizontal format when the scene suits it.

  4. Metering Tips

Keep an eye on your metering when you're on the edge or out in the water as a bright sky and reflections off the water can confuse the camera into thinking it's brighter than it is and you'll end up with an underexposed image. It's worth checking your histogram and using the highlight clipping feature on your camera to ensure your shot isn't overexposed. You may also want to consider using exposure compensation and dialling down to a negative figure to balance the exposure correctly.

If you happen to be out on a day when the light's really bad your images can look flat and lose impact. However, if you focus your attention more on showing the big waves and cropping in close to show the huge amounts of spray coming off the boards you can still get some decent images.

  5. On Shore

Not everyone will have the kit needed to capture action shots and if this is the case for you, just re-think the shots you're taking and focus your attention onshore. People entering/exiting the water, riders getting kit ready and putting wetsuits on are just a few of the things you can capture without the need for a long lens or getting your feet wet and they can be just as interesting as the shots of the water.

 

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Two photographs can be equally strong in composition, light, and technique, yet only one continues to unfold after the first impression. The difference often lies in what the elements of the frame are actually doing.

 

To make that difference easier to see, I separate four functions: subject, attribute, relation, and inflection. They are not stages of artistic development or measures of merit. They show what a photograph rests on and whether that matches its author’s intention.

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In 2005, if you asked a working photographer to name a Sony stills camera, you would get a shrug and maybe a Cyber-shot pointed at you. Sony had no professional lens line, no professional autofocus heritage, and no seat at a table Canon and Nikon had set for themselves decades earlier. A little over ten years later, Sony was selling the most talked-about full-frame mirrorless cameras on the market, and both of its rivals were scrambling to answer.

 

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Shedding a few pounds of camera gear changes how far you actually hike, and it decides which moments you catch and which ones you miss. Bird photography rewards patience and mobility in equal measure, so the size and feel of the camera in your hand can matter as much as its sensor.

 

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A perfectly sharp photo of something nobody wants to look at twice loses to a slightly soft photo of something interesting. That single trade-off runs underneath a whole approach to shooting that treats technical skill as the least of your worries.

 

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Who doesn't love a good theme park ride photo? Faces contorted in delicious mixes of fear, anticipation, and fun make for interesting photos. And while it's easier than ever to buy the photos, sometimes all you get is crushing disappointment in the form of thumbnail-sized photos that look like they were taken with a potato. 

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Creases across the front of a t-shirt sit exactly where the eye lands. Clothing wrinkles and backdrop fold lines are the kind of problem you can't always control on the day, and fixing them by hand eats hours you'd rather spend somewhere else.

 

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Once you have your tourist, postcard style shots, spend a few hours of your vacation time thinking about how you can do things a little bit differently. (Yes, we know we are talking about not doing this but the reason everyone takes these shots is that they do actually look good, most of the time. Just remember to get up early or stay out late to miss the rush of tourists so you stand a better chance of capturing people-free shots.)
 

1. Use It As A Secondary Point Of Interest

Instead of making the landmark your main point of focus, place another object in the foreground and use the landmark as background detail for your shot. You could use a larger aperture to throw it slightly out of focus but don't go too wide as you still want the landmark to be recognisable. For shots with plenty of depth of field, think like a landscape photographer, standing further back from your landmark so you can add interest in the foreground as well as the middle and background of the shot.

 

2. Find A New Angle

This is an obvious point that's also easier said than done sometimes but even the smallest change in composition can make a big difference to the shot. Try blurring foliage into an out of focus frame, shoot through a window or arch or look for objects your landmark can be reflected in. Shooting down into a puddle of water, particularly on a moody, wet day will give any landmark photo an interesting twist while switching from a wide lens to telephoto so you can crop in will give you a shot that's ever so subtly different but yet, still recognisable to those back home.

Watch for where the crowds go and head off in a different direction, looking for new vantage points to shoot from. This could mean climbing to get above it or trying to get lower to shoot from nearer the ground. We can't guarantee you won't get any funny looks but you should walk away with a set of unique shots. 

 

 

3. Get In Close

As landmarks are well known you don't have to get the whole structure in the frame for people to know what it is. The blue/green shade of the Statue of Liberty will be recognisable no matter how close you zoom in. In fact, the shapes created to form drapes in the statue's clothing could create an interesting abstract shot if you have a lens that can get you close enough.

 

4. Head Out When Other's Don't

A cloudy, rainy day will put most sight-seers off and you should take advantage of this. They'll be less bad weather shots than there are scenes with blue sky and sun. Rainy days also mean you can shoot reflections (as mentioned above). Just remember to protect your equipment as unless it's waterproof, it won't like the rain.

 

 

5. Human Interest

We said above to head out early/late to avoid crowds but including one or two people can give your landmark shot a new angle. By adding people, street vendors setting up near the landmark or people sweeping away rubbish, you add a new level of interest to what would be 'just another tourist shot'. As people have a habit of stopping what they're doing and either grinning or frowning when they see a camera pointed at them you may need to work more like a street photographer to get shots where your subject isn't posed. 

   

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