Photography News

The difference between a forgettable walk and a productive shoot often comes down to how closely you're paying attention, not how far you've traveled.Simon  Booth makes exactly that case in this video, shot entirely along roadsides and footpaths in the Cairngorms National Park, and the results are hard to argue with. 

[Read More]

Film photography has a way of humbling you fast. You shoot a roll, wait days to see the results, and get back something flat, muddy, or just... off. This helpful video lays out three specific reasons this keeps happening and what to fix, and none of them require spending more money on gear. 

[Read More]

 

1. Pick A Strong Subject

As silhouettes don't have any detail and are, essentially, just an outline, picking a subject that has a recognisable shape and strong detail around the edge will produce shots that are more interesting. Possible subject choices include:

• Big wheels at fairgrounds or those found in cities.
• Statues which can be found in most parks and gardens.
• Trees, particularly on misty mornings.
• Tunnels or bridges make great frames for subjects when silhouetted.
• People but remember that shooting them side on will show more shape when still. 
• People in action - if they're jumping or forming an interesting frame with their legs and arms, shooting straight on can work well.

  2. Choose A Light Source 

Any subject that is surrounded by bright tones can easily appear as a silhouette. The most obvious light source to use is the sun as you can use it at the beach, in town, in your garden or even inside as long as you're working near a large window or close to a set of patio doors. But really you can use any light source, you just need to make sure it sits behind your subject.

 

3. Switch The Flash Off

When you take your camera out of its bag and use auto mode to take a shot of your subject sat against a bright background, generally the flash will fire to lighten the foreground and even out the exposure. This is usually fine but as we want to deliberately underexpose our subject, you need to make sure the flash is turned off.

 

 

4. Underexpose Your Shot When working in auto mode, most point and shoot cameras will work out the exposure and where it needs to focus when you press the shutter button halfway. So to trick it into creating a silhouette, simply point the camera at the brightest part of the scene you're photographing, press the shutter halfway down and don't let go of it. Re-frame the shot then press the shutter button the rest of the way to take your shot. This should fool the camera into giving you the exposure you want but you may have to try exposing from different parts of the image to create the silhouette you're looking for. Try using the Sunset Mode too to further enhance the silhouette you're trying to create.
  5. Check The Shot's Focus

The problem with half-pressing the shutter button to get the exposure you need is that the camera will also focus on that spot too which can mean your silhouette can lack crispness. If this happens and you can adjust the focus manually, pre-focus before you take your meter reading. You could try using Landscape mode as this will let the camera know you want to use a small aperture so your shot has front to back sharpness. If your camera features exposure compensation you'll be able to select -1 or -2 to deliberately underexpose your shot. This means you shouldn't have any problems with focusing either as you won't have to move the camera.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

A stunning photo of Bamburgh Blues by pink has been chosen as our latest 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) winner.

This panoramic capture of Bamburgh Castle, taken in the early hours of the morning, is wrapped in cool blue tones. The warm lights from the castle give a nice contrast against the moody sky above.

The wet sand at the bottom of the frame acts as a mirror, showing the reflection of the castle lights and adding depth to the scene. The layers of sand and coastal grasses on the right-hand side give a strong sense of place within the Northumberland coastline. The dramatic cloudscape overhead, with its heavy, textured forms, completes this wonderfully moody early morning capture.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

Shooting minimalist photography with long exposures is harder than it looks, especially when the tide is actively trying to trap you. Gary Gough takes that challenge head-on at Happisburgh Beach in Norfolk, working a low tide window to pull compositions out of groynes, sunken structures, and a half-buried tide bell before the sea forces a retreat. 

[Read More]

ON1 Photo Raw 2026.4 just landed, and the headline feature is Restore AI, a tool that can repair damaged prints, colorize old black-and-white images, and clean up degraded film scans. If you have a box of old family photos sitting around, this update is worth your attention. 

[Read More]

 

For good garden photos your garden needs to be looking at its best and the light has to be right. But as you look out of the window at it every day, you'll see when your plants and flowers look their best and you can easily be out there with your camera in minutes snapping that perfect garden shot.

  1. What Gear Do I Need? 

Your standard zoom is fine but if you want to get closer to the flowers to hide the weeds you need a macro lens. If it's very bright attach a polariser to your lens to reduce glare and consider using a tripod that has a centre column that can be used in a horizontal position to get closer to flowerheads. A small reflector will help direct light to where it's needed and you don't even have to purchase one as you can create your own from foil and card. 
 

2. Avoid Bright, Sunny Days 

To be honest, bright days when the sun is high in the sky can be awkward as the colours will be too harsh and you'll have deep, dark shadows. A lot of flower photographers prefer early mornings, but a still evening's just as good. In fact, why not get outside after work and enjoy the warmth of the evening while you take your photographs? Hazy days when it's a little cloudy but the sun's still shining are perfect, though, as the clouds act as a giant softbox, diffusing the light.
 

3. Dealing With Windy Days 

If there's a gentle breeze in the air crank up the shutter speed or stick your camera on a tripod and slow the speed right down if you fancy taking some experimental shots.

 

4. How Green Is Your Garden? 

If your garden's too green you may need to narrow your focus as even though your eyes can see the spots of colour your camera might not. Getting in closer will also hide the weeds and broken shed windows you want to disguise or you could use them as subject as weeds can be just as photogenic as roses.

 

 

5. Create Paths And Frames 

If you have a path use it to guide the viewer's eye from the front to the back of the image, creating depth. A small aperture will give plenty of depth-of-field. Give your garden a 'frame' too as with portraits, they can be improved with one. Entrances, arches, gates, hedges and overhanging trees all work well. Also, look beyond your garden hedge and fence to see if you have a view that can add to your garden landscape.

 

6. Shoot Some Macro Work 

If you do get your macro lens out make sure you fill the frame and blur the background with a larger aperture. Flowers are nice but look for interesting leaves too as these often have textures flowers don't have. Keep your eye out for insects such as butterflies who can be found on a cool morning with their wings open warming up too.

 

7. Make The Most Of Showers 

If a gentle shower's fallen get outside as you can get great images. Close-ups of water droplets on blooms can look great. Of course, if you haven't had any rain for a while, fill a water spray or even a watering can and provide your own 'dew' or 'rain'.

 

8. Take Garden Photos All Year Round 

Don't think this is just a one evening project either as different seasons, mood and light give you endless photographic opportunities right on your doorstep.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Buying your first serious camera in 2026 means walking into one of the noisiest markets in recent memory. Compact cameras are surging. Retro-styled bodies are outselling flagships. YouTube reviewers are pushing full frame. Reddit says Fujifilm. The camera store wants to sell you whatever kit is sitting on the shelf. And every recommendation answers the same question: "What camera should I buy?" 

That is the wrong question. The better one is: "What camera will help me learn and keep shooting?"

[Read More]

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|11324|3897740[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to pink (Day 21- 'The Sea').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 17

Abstract

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|340221|3905716[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 18

Running

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|158535|3929407[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 19

Animals & Wildlife

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|326582|3932164[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 20

Landmarks

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|89636|3453100[/COMMENT_IMG]

  Day 22

Leaves & Tree

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|320788|320788_1779432964.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 23

Swans

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|161002|3850444[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

With warmer weather finally arriving, it's a good time to take your camera on a planned photo walk. This, of course, could be on a paid-for type of course but you can also design your own. Staying as close or venturing as far as you like from your home.

 

1. Check The Weather

Have a look online and on the TV the night before you leave and on the morning of your walk. If you're off hill walking low cloud's not good news if you want to walk higher up and blistering, bright sunshine isn't a photographer's friend no matter where you walk. There's more chance of you dehydrating too on a warmer day so either wait for cooler temperatures or pack plenty of water if you're still going to head out in it.
 

2. Dress For The Weather

Stick your head out of the door and see what the weather's like and if it is sunny do still pack a waterproof just in case.
 

3. Tell People You're Going 

Make sure someone at home knows where you're going and give them an estimated time of when you'll be back so if you do get lost, they'll know to come and find you. Take your mobile with you so they can contact you but do remember you can't get a signal in some remote locations.
 

4. Plan A Route

Don't be over adventurous as you, plus kit and stopping to take photos means, generally, you won't have the time to walk very far. A quick, short route that circles back on itself will be fine, in fact, a one/two-hour walk that takes you into a town/village or just around the area you live in would be perfectly good if you've not tried a photography walk before. If you do want to venture into the countryside you might not want to climb up to many steep hills on your first walk but you don't have to get too high to shoot interesting sweeping vistas. Try walking along the side of a river or through the woods instead.
 

5. Capture A Variety Of Imagery 

Of course, there will be plenty of wide landscapes to capture out of the city but don't overlook shooting a few close up shots too. Look out for flowers, interesting patterns in bark and insects on your trail. If you see something in the distance, a waterfall for example, but don't have the time or energy to get closer to it use the pulling power of a longer focal length to bring it to you. This will help isolate it from the wider scene and also bring detail into the shot that may not have been seen if you shot it with a wide lens. Closer to home get up higher to stop problems with converging verticals and this will also give you the chance to capture some cityscapes. In between the buildings look for reflections and interesting detail/patterns roof tiles, brickwork, fences and other objects create.

 

 

6. Pack The Right Lenses

Wide-angle zooms are good for capturing sweeping landscapes with interesting foregrounds while telephoto zoom lenses are good for picking out detail and compressing perspective. To save on weight pack just one zoom lens that covers all the focal points you need. For close up work, pack a macro lens.

7. A Tripod Is A Must 

It's always a good idea to take a tripod along, particularly for landscapes, where the built-in spirit level will help you ensure your horizons are straight. You'll also need one if you're planning on stopping to shoot some slow shutter speed shots of lakes, rivers and waterfalls. If you're planning a long-ish walk you'll need a light-weight model. Pack your remote shutter release with your tripod too for those slow shutter speed shots where shake will really be noticed.
 

8. You'll Need A Good Pair Of Shoes

You need a pair of shoes/boots that are comfy, it's a good idea to make sure they're waterproof and you'll thank them at the end of your walk if they support your ankles. Having a good sole which gives good traction is also a must if you're heading off the pavement.
 

9. Remember The Filters

Find the room in your camera bag for a polarising filter and an ND filter as they don't take up too much space but are very helpful tools on sunny days when you need to use slower shutter speeds or when reflections are a problem. An ND Grad filter can be useful too for balancing out the exposure of the sky and ground.
 

10. Pick The Right Camera Bag 

If you're off on a long walk, as well as having space for your camera and lenses make sure there's room for spare clothing, water, food and a compass.  But don't carry a bag that's too big, though, as walking is tiring enough on its own without having to carry a large bag that's half empty.

 

 

11. Always Carry Spare Batteries And Memory

You don't want to run out of power or space to store your photos when you're only halfway through your walk so always pack extra.

 

12. Don't Forget The Torch

If you're planning on photographing sunrises you'll be setting your kit up and walking while it's still dark and without a torch, this can be a little tricky. So your hands are free, take a head torch with you to light the way. Of course, if you're staying closer to home you'll have street lights so this item's not something you'll need in your bag.

 

13. Other Essential Accessories You Will Need 

Take a lens cloth to wipe dust and moister off your lens, a lens hood will help stop glare, a compass will guide you along your chosen route and a map will stop you getting lost. If you're heading out for quite a few hours make sure you take food, water and plenty of snacks with you. Make sure the clothing you're wearing is lightweight and it's often better to layer up rather than heading out in just one coat. If it's a sunny day pack your sun cream as even if there's a slight covering of cloud, the sun will still get you if you're out in it all day.

 

14. Find A Friend To Walk With You 

Taking a short walk on your own is fine but if you're going on a four-mile hike take someone else with you so if you do get lost or worse still injured, you won't just have yourself to rely on. If you're going with a none-photographer they may also help you carry your equipment and hold your bag while you're taking your shots. Do go with someone who has a slight interest in photography though as they can help you look for good locations to shoot in/of and if they don't have an interest in photography at all they'll just get bored of stopping and waiting for you to take your photos.
 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|241969|241969_1777882292.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to p1yu5h (Day 3- 'Dandelions').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

City Shoot

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|119459|119459_1777641540.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 2

'Quick' Theme

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|89636|3879103[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 4

Lighthouse In The Landscape

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|11912|11912_1777890098.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 5

Trains

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|158870|158870_1777971441.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

  Day 6

Hedgerows

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|345095|345095_1778062670.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 7

Seaside Captures

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|85831|85831_1778143598.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 8

'Old vs New' Theme

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|344332|3744643[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

There are some pieces of gear you expect to be good, and then there are the rare ones that change your expectations altogether. I recently tested the 31L version of the new Wandrd Prvke Pocket Bag, which is an item you don't fully appreciate until you're halfway through a trip, standing in the rain, juggling passports, tech, and camera gear. This article discusses my experience with the bag, traveling long-haul. 

[Read More]

Shooting film in the snowiest city on Earth is not a casual undertaking. Aomori, Japan, sits at the top of the global rankings for annual snowfall, and photographing it on film, in blizzard conditions, with a scanning workflow you've built from scratch, demands a level of commitment that either produces something special or teaches you something hard. 

[Read More]

Handmade film from a single person's garage in Ukraine, made in batches of exactly 20 rolls a month, sounds like a niche curiosity. But the results from this orthochromatic, high-silver emulsion are turning heads even among the most experienced people in the analog film world. 

[Read More]

The 7Artisans 135mm f/1.8 is a fast telephoto prime available for Nikon Z, Sony E, and L mount systems at around $650. At that price, a lens with this spec sheet raises an obvious question: what's the catch? 

[Read More]

Shooting wildlife in a national park means making fast decisions about exposure, composition, and focus while the subject moves, light changes, and opportunities close in seconds. Malawi's Liwonde National Park, with its mix of woodland and open terrain, puts every one of those decisions under pressure. 

[Read More]

 

Holiday season is approaching again and the time of year when you'll no doubt be dusting off your old camera or considering buying a new one. This article will help you take better pictures, avoid disasters and maybe make you think a bit more before you press the shutter.

 

1. Individuality

You only have to go to any popular tourist spot to see camera-clutching individuals out in their droves, each clambering to the same old spots to take the same old pictures. I wouldn't be surprised if the ground is eroded in certain places as certain spots have provided support for thousands upon thousands of people pointing their cameras to take pictures. Now here's an idea, how about some tripod manufacturer concreting one of their best selling models into place so you can get exactly the same picture! What I'm eluding to is it's better if you can get off the beaten track to take your pictures. If you're in a coach party and the coach stops, walk up the road and see if there's a better viewpoint. Coaches have to stop in lay-bys and that's not always the ideal vantage point. Often shrubs or trees block the view, and there's likely to be rubbish strewn all over the place. But the main thing is you won't have the same picture that everyone else has. You can usually buy those at the postcard shop.

 

 

2. Look For Ideas

Talking of which, postcards, taken by the professionals, often give you ideas and point out not only the obvious beauty spots but also the less ventured locations. When you stop in an unfamiliar village or town, it's always worth checking out the local postcards to see what previous photographers have discovered, and then plan your trip to include that location and take your own versions of the postcard shots. Use their ideas as inspiration for your own pictures, and use these in other locations. Of course with the internet available almost anywhere you can also do your research online, either before you go or at your hotel before you head off for a day of exploration. 

 

 

3. Wonky Won't Work

There are several simple tips to help you take better pictures with your camera. The main thing is to check the viewfinder just before you take the shot. Look for obvious problems such as trees or lampposts growing out of heads, horizons at an angle and fingers straying over the lens. Also, avoid covering the flash when taking pictures indoors. Using a tripod will help ensure the horizons straight and you can also buy Hot Shoe Bubble mounts that can be placed onto the hot shoe of a camera to help ensure your camera is level.

 

 

4. In The Sun

If you're lucky you'll have good weather, lucky for your tan, but maybe not for your picture taking. The sun when high in the sky casts hard shadows and bright highlights that create too much contrast making detail in shadow areas become black and highlights washed out. Here's where your built-in flash will help. No, it's not just for parties and indoor frolics, the flash can be used to put detail back into shadow areas and also adds a sparkle to eyes (known as a catch-light). Use it when you can see a harsh dark shadow under the nose and chin. 

 

  5. On The Beach

If you're a sun worshiper and head for the beach watch your camera. Cameras don't like salt water or sand and if either element comes into contact it's a recipe for disaster. You can buy a special waterproof pack that houses the camera and lets you take pictures with it in place, or you could buy a waterproof camera or a single-use splashproof camera if you prefer. Of course, keeping your camera and lenses in a camera bag when not in use will reduce the amount of sand and sea-spray that gets into contact with it. An everyday backpack will have more than enough room for camera gear plus other accessories you may need for a day at the beach. 

 

 

6. Photos Of People

When you go abroad you're likely to see interesting characters and will be eager to snap these locals in their natural environment. While some will be happy to pose, you must remember you are invading their privacy so don't go prodding your lens here, there and everywhere without understanding the culture of the locals. You can often go on tourist trips to villages that have been set up to show what life is like in the real villages and, as you've paid to go, there's no harm taking pictures. If you want to tread further afield do some research before you go.

 

 

 

7. Insured?

Lastly, if you have an expensive camera make sure your insurance covers it. You don't want to damage your camera or have it stolen before you find you're not covered for damage or theft.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Low-light photography always comes with a tradeoff: raise the ISO, and you get the shot, but also noise. In fleeting moments, whether shooting wildlife, handheld street scenes, or live events, there’s no second chance to adjust settings or reshoot. Capturing the moment comes first, and improving image quality happens later in post-processing.

While AI image denoisers are designed to reduce image noise while preserving natural texture, different tools strike this balance in various ways. To help you find the best fit for your workflow, I’ve tested several leading photo denoising software across common real-world scenarios, comparing how each handles the delicate line between noise removal and detail retention.

 

How AI Denoising Restores Images with Natural Details

Traditional noise reduction often removed grain through heavy smoothing, which could leave images looking soft and lose important texture, especially in low-light photos. Instead of simply blurring noise, modern AI tools like Aiarty Image Enhancer intelligently separate noise from real detail to preserve edges, texture, and structural integrity. It is designed for real-world photography workflows, helping recover clean image quality from high-ISO, low-light, or compressed photos.

 

Test methodology:

To ensure a practical comparison, all images were captured in real-world low-light conditions rather than a controlled studio:

• ISO range: 3200–12800 
• Formats: Mix of RAW and JPEG 
• Shooting conditions: Handheld, low ambient light, no additional lighting
• Aiarty is used as the starting reference in this testing. You can get a free trial to test it on your own files, with several other leading tools compared below to show how different approaches handle real-world denoising.

 

Case Study 1: Wildlife (Fur Detail Under Low Light)

Wildlife photography often requires high ISO settings during the "golden hours" of dawn or dusk. The challenge lies in separating fine fur or feather textures from noise, especially in underexposed areas. Traditional tools often smudge these textures, leaving backgrounds blotchy and subjects soft.

Using a squirrel image as an example, where noise appears in both the background and fur, Aiarty Image Enhancer maintains natural and detailed look of the squirrel’s fur, with clear texture instead of being turned into flat areas.

 

Testing Aiarty Image Enhancer: More-Detail GAN v3 model, x2 upscaled, 0.95 Strength

 

You can also control how strong the denoising is with the Strength option. By adjusting the Strength slider, photographers can retain a hint of organic grain for a more "atmospheric" shot or opt for a 100% clean, clinical output for high-end prints.

 

Testing Aiarty Image Enhancer: denoise strength 50% vs 100% 

 

Case Study 2: Low-light Indoor Photography

Indoor scenes with mixed artificial lighting, such as portraits or interior shots, frequently suffer from grain across smooth surfaces like skin, walls, and furniture. Aggressive image noise reduction often results in a "plastic" look where skin textures are over-smoothed and fabric details disappear. 

Aiarty Image Enhancer effectively reduces image noise while preserving subject detail and natural texture. It cleans up grain in low-light interiors without sacrificing the natural micro-textures of skin or wood, ensuring that lighting transitions remain smooth and balanced.

 

Testing Aiarty Image Enhancer: Real-Photo v3, slightly color corrected

 

Case Study 3: Night Photography (Gradient Noise and Color Artifacts)

Night photography presents a unique challenge: managing noise in vast, smooth areas like dark skies and deep shadows. High ISOs often introduce chroma noise (color speckling), which can cause banding in gradients and a loss of depth in the shadows.

While many photo denoising tools struggle with shadow depth, Aiarty Image Enhancer eliminates color artifacts while keeping gradients fluid. Skies remain clean and even, and shadows retain their tonal depth, preventing the "flat" look common in over-processed night shots.

 

Testing Aiarty Image Enhancer: More-Detail GAN v3, slightly color corrected

 

2026 Best AI Photo Denoisers Compared

Aiarty Image Enhancer is a powerful AI denoise and upscale tool. Designed for real-world photos, it effectively removes noise while preserving fine details and natural textures. 

That said, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution for image denoising. Different image denoising tools are optimized for different needs—whether it’s RAW photo processing, fast batch cleanup, or advanced AI-driven enhancement workflows.

 

Tool Primary Focus Denoise Approach Price Aiarty Image Enhancer AI-based enhancement Noise reduction + detail reconstruction Lifetime license (with free trial) Adobe Lightroom RAW workflow Sensor-level AI denoise Creative Cloud subscription only DaVinci Resolve Signal processing Temporal + spatial noise reduction Lifetime license (Studio version) Topaz Photo AI Intelligent Automation Denoise + sharpen pipeline Subscription DxO PureRAW Camera calibration Camera-profile-based denoise Lifetime license + upgrade fee ON1 NoNoise AI General-purpose AI Adjustable AI denoise for RAW/JPEG Lifetime/subscription

 

Tips: To get the best results, match the AI image denoiser to your editing habits. If you want to avoid the "subscription trap" and prioritize long-term value, Aiarty Image Enhancer currently offers a 49% off lifetime license ($79, originally $155), available for 3 machines (PC/Mac), includes free lifetime updates, and is backed by a 30-day money-back guarantee.

 

Adobe Lightroom

For those already within the Adobe ecosystem, Lightroom offers a seamless experience by integrating its AI Denoise tool directly into the familiar Detail panel. The workflow is impressively straightforward: a single slider adjustment generates a new, enhanced DNG file, allowing you to continue your RAW editing without interruption.

Under the hood, Lightroom performs sophisticated RAW-level processing that balances image noise reduction with color and tonal consistency. The results are highly predictable and professional, prioritizing a stable, clean output over aggressive texture reconstruction.

 

 

DaVinci Resolve (UltraNR / Neural Noise Reduction)

If you already use DaVinci Resolve for video, you’ll be pleased to know its new Photo Page brings that same Hollywood-grade photo denoising to your still images. It’s a fantastic "two-for-one" tool that lets you clean up noisy photos using the UltraNR engine without ever leaving your project timeline.

Rather than trying to "invent" new textures, the DaVinci Neural Engine focuses on high-end signal cleanup. It uses a mix of spatial and temporal analysis to remove noise from photos, effectively scrubbing away that gritty luminance and "rainbow" chroma noise while keeping edges like hair and eyes sharp. It’s particularly impressive in deep shadows or underexposed night shots, providing a clean, cinematic look that feels like a natural photograph rather than a digital reconstruction.

 

 

Topaz Photo 

Built around an all-in-one enhancement pipeline, Topaz Photo applies AI models to denoise, sharpen, and upscale images with minimal manual adjustment, focusing on fast automated results. The idea is straightforward: load a noisy image, let the model decide, and get a clean result quickly. Different AI models handle RAW and non-RAW images separately.

When applied to real images, it removes noise from images and produces clean results with minimal manual input. Because AI image denoising and sharpening are handled together, the final appearance can vary depending on how each model balances smoothing and detail enhancement.

 

 

DxO PureRAW

DxO PureRAW takes a RAW-first approach to image enhancement, combining camera and lens profiling with AI-based processing tailored to specific sensor characteristics. Within this workflow, DxO relies on DeepPRIME models to denoise images. Using camera and lens profiles together with AI-based processing, they handle image noise reduction, demosaicing, and optical corrections in a unified step. Newer versions like DeepPRIME 3 and XD3 further improve noise suppression and detail recovery in high-ISO images.

This calibration-heavy workflow delivers exceptionally clean RAW files with superior noise suppression, providing a purer "digital negative" that is particularly effective for high-ISO images shot in difficult lighting.

 

 

ON1 NoNoise AI

Available as both a standalone tool and plugin, ON1 NoNoise AI applies AI-driven noise reduction to RAW and JPEG files while offering adjustable control over detail preservation and smoothing intensity.

The tool uses AI-based noise reduction to clean up high-ISO and low-light images while attempting to preserve fine detail and sharpness, with adjustable intensity levels that allow users to control how aggressively noise is removed. While it prioritizes a balanced, natural look for everyday photography rather than deep texture reconstruction, it remains a popular AI denoiser for its ability to preserve color fidelity in challenging low-light shots.

 

 

Conclusion 

AI has transformed noise reduction from a tedious chore into a professional-grade shortcut. While tools like Lightroom and DxO focus on RAW consistency, and others lean toward automation, Aiarty Image Enhancer stands out for its superior balance of noise removal and genuine texture preservation.

For photographers who need powerful, easy-to-use image noise reduction that restores natural detail without complex manual steps, Aiarty is a top-tier choice. It offers the precision and speed required to turn noisy, low-light shots into clean, professional results with just a single click.

 

Landscape photography's all well and good, but what do you photograph when the skies are leaden and the rain's really set in for the day. That's when I pick up a tripod and head off for a 'rust fix' and there are plenty of museums and collections around the country that are perfect for this type of day.

 

Think In Textures & Patterns 

The secret when visiting collections of rusty vehicles is to try to forget what it is you are photographing, by that I mean not to look at them as a lathe, excavator, or drill; but to view everything as simply shape, pattern and texture. Indoor locations such as old sheds and workshops should be explored, too, as even though they may seem to be filled with junk, if you look around carefully there will be a wealth of goodies to point your camera at.

It's worth leaving the camera in your bag and walking round for 15 minutes, just looking to see what might work photographically – pick out maybe a pile of spanners sitting on a workbench, or if outside, select one vehicle and look over it carefully, choosing details that will make strong, abstract, colourful and interesting pictures.

Raindrops on the surface add another texture, and wet paint and rust enrich the colours. If you are working inside using light coming through a window behind the items you are photographing, a reflector can be invaluable to bounce light from the window back into the shadows. Be careful not to rush around trying to photograph everything – you will more than likely be disappointed with the results, spend time working around each subject, trying various angles and looking close to create strong, abstract, colourful and interesting pictures.

 

Why's A Tripod An Important Tool?  

Because the 'undercover' work (and if it's pouring with rain, that's probably the best place to be) tends to be in darker locations, a tripod is an essential piece of kit. Lighting levels are low and shutter speeds can be quite long, but I'm not a huge fan of flash in these places – firstly, it tends to kill the natural lighting, second, if there other people looking around, a continual flashing can be annoying for them. I keep my ISO fairly low for this work, as non-moving subjects taken using a tripod are no problem up to 30-second exposures – or beyond if you have a remote release with a timer.
 

Work With Custom White Balance Settings 

Be careful of lighting – often there is a mixture of diffused daylight coming through the windows, and fluorescent lighting in the ceiling. The ideal solution is to turn off the lights, but this wouldn't go down too well with others, so make full use of your camera's custom white balance settings.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

amaran has a reputation for creating excellent lighting solutions for today’s image creators. Its latest introduction is the Halo series, a range of great value COB (chip on board) lights. The five-strong family comprises the Halo 60x (63W output), 100x (100W), 200x (200W), 300x (305W) and the top of the range 600x, a 610W unit tested here. With an impressively high output coming from compact, space-saving designs, the Halo series is attractively priced, making great light attainable to content creators of all budget levels.

There’s no denying that the amaran Halo 600x monolight has a handsome profile. Key features include two control knobs on the rear, a light stand mount which doubles as a carry grip and brolly holder, and an internal cooling fan with silent mode.

 

Quick Verdict

If you need a powerful, no-nonsense monolight, look no further than the amaran Halo 600x. It’s solidly built and user-friendly whether using the on-board controls or the amaran app to fine-tune its output. Its design is well thought through too with some nice touches such as its light stand mount, which can accept a brolly spindle and works a comfortable carrying handle.

However, design and ergonomics count for nothing if the Halo 600x didn’t deliver a capable performance, but there’s nothing to worry about on that score. It has a prodigious amount of power that’s tightly controllable in terms of output and colour temperature and its colour performance is impressive too.

 

+ Pros

• Powerful
• Controllable down to 1% output
• 2700-6500K
• Accurate colour temperature output
• Integral cooling fan
• Bowens modifier mount
• Option of app control
• Special effects
• Design and build quality
• Support of amaran’s accessory and modifier system
• DMX control (Digital Multiplex control – remote control)

- Cons

• To be honest, at this price and with this level of performance, nothing
• A carry case would have been nice, but of course, that would impact the price

 

 

 

The amaran Halo series is the perfect companion to amaran’s flagship Ray series which features four monolights; the top of the range Ray 660C has a 660W output. In terms of lighting, the Ray series provides a full-colour output and an even wider colour temperature range (2300-10,000K) powered by the OmniColor light engine. The Ray 660C retails at £694 / $699.

By comparison, the Halo family features bi-colour lights offering core lighting needs in simple to use units that are perfectly at home, on location or in a full-blown professional studio. The Halo range-topping 600x retails at £462 / $469.

amaran offers a full range of Bowens fit lighting modifiers including softboxes (rectangular and octa), spotlights, barn doors and lantern diffusers. 

In this review, we used an amaran Lantern 90 (£104 / $99) and an Octa Dome 60 (£83 / $89).

Unmodified, the Halo 600x’s head gives a light spread of 85° and it accepts Bowens bayonet fit modifiers. The light mount stand has a hole for a lighting brolly stem and is contoured to serve as a carrying handle.

 

amaran Halo 600x Hands on

Pick up the Halo 600x, and I challenge you not to be impressed with its build quality but it’s not heavy, so it’s reasonably portable. The unmodified head gives a light spread of 85°, and it’ll accept Bowens fit lighting modifiers. 

A 5m mains cable with an angled connector comes with the Halo 600x, so just plug this in, and you are ready to go. Turning the unit on and off is done with a push button, and the central TFT screen keeps you informed about power output and colour temperature. Altering output is done with the top right knob and is controllable in 1% steps within the 1-100% power range, while the bottom button handles colour temperature from 2700 to 6700K. There’s no need to dive into a menu.

A free app available for iOS, Android and desktop (Mac and Windows) allows remote control of the Halo 600x via Bluetooth, and there’s a USB-C port for more advanced DMX control. The Halo series is amaran’s first COB light to offer DMX control via USB-C on every model for convenient integration into studio lighting consoles. There’s built-in NFC too.

Hit the bottom left button and that takes you to more settings and functions including the unit’s special effects, that includes fireworks, lightning, paparazzi and strobe.

The modifiers used for the test were the amaran Lantern 90 and the Octa Dome 60. In the Lantern’s case, it’s designed to give a soft, even spread of light across a broad area, while the Octa Dome 50 gives a tighter circle of light and comes with a diffuser cover and a cloth grid. Both are very quick to set up, but the Octa Dome 60 deserves a special mention for its innovative design. Assembling octa-type softboxes is traditionally fiddly and takes effort but to erect the Octa Dome, all you do is push the blue plastic tab into place. No strain and no having to mess around with stiff supporting rods.

I tried the amaran app on my iPhone. Pairing the light and app was easy and re-connected reliably each time I came to use the light. Controlling power, colour temperature and special effects was straightforward, so it was a convenient way of working if you can’t get to the Halo 600x’s control knobs or see the control panel.

Running at a high power for long periods even when a modifier was attached, was no issue. The unit grew warm but not hot, so the cooling fan did a fine job and was quiet too. 

 

The Halo 600x has a range of special effects that can be fine-tuned to suit.

 

amaran Halo 600x Key Features

• Price £462 / $469
• High-power COB light
• Mains powered
• Bi-colour chipset
• Separate brightness and colour temperature knobs
• CCT 2700-6500K output
• Range of special effects
• 96+ CRI
• 97+ TLCi
• Bowens modifier mount
• Beam angle, no modifier 85°
• Built-in active cooling fan
• On-board controls, by amaran app, DMX via USB-C
• Max power consumption 610watts
• Max light output 32,500 lux at 1m, no modifier
• TFT screen
• IP20 weather resistance rating
• Firmware upgradable
• Size including mounting bracket 24.2x14.1x16.5cm 
• Weighs 2.91kg
• Comes with 5m mains cable
• amarancreators.com

 

Simple but efficient, that sums up the Halo 600x’s control panel. The two knobs on the right control colour temperature (top) and output level (below) with the on/off push button (top left) and CCT/effects and other settings (below left). At the centre is the TFT readout panel. Here, it's just showing that a mains lead is connected.

 

amaran Halo 600x Output

Look through the amaran Halo 600x’s long specification list and you’ll see that the bare head at 1m at full power pumps out 32,500 lux at 4300K, the colour temperature that gives maximum output. This sounds impressive but what does that mean in practice? Using a Gossen lightmeter set to ISO 100, I got an exposure reading of 1/30sec at f/16.5 and ISO 100 at 1m and that dropped to f/8 at 3m. That’s an impressive amount of light, but of course, an unmodified head doesn’t give a flattering light, so I turned to amaran’s diffusers for a kinder look.

Adding the Octa 60 fitted with the outer diffuser sheet only, at full power, ISO 100 and at 1m, the meter reading was 1/30sec at f/11.8 and this dropped to f/5.6 at 3m. This remains a very useable amount of light.

Next, it was the turn of the amaran Lantern 90, a larger modifier that produces a lovely light. At 100% output, 4300K, 1m and at ISO 100, the meter gave an exposure reading of 1/30sec at f/11.7, so essentially the same at the Octa Dome 60. Moving out to 3m and the aperture dropped to f/5.6, again the same as the Octa Dome 60.

Trying different output levels showed that the power drop-off was consistent. As an example of this, without any modifier, the Halo 600x at 5600K, 1m and full power gave a meter reading of 1/30sec at f/16.6 and this dropped to f/11.6 at 50% power and f/8.0.7 at 25% power.

The cooling fan has three modes: Smart, High and Silent. My testing was done with the Halo 600x in its High mode, which did a great job of dissipating heat. The head does get warm in use, but not hot, so it’s still comfortable to change modifiers without burning your fingers.

Fan noise is not really an issue, but it is audible in a quiet environment, so if noise is a concern, there’s a silent mode, but this comes at a cost of output. With the Lantern 90 fitted and at 4300K, full power, ISO 100 and 1m, the meter reading was f/30sec at f/4, so that is over three f/stops less power than normal mode. Adjust output from 100% downwards and the output stays constant until you fall below 10%, and then it drops another one f/stop to f/2.8. At 3m, the reading is 1/30sec at f/1.4.3 throughout the output range until you dip below 10%, where the meter reading is 1/30sec at f/1.0. 

The Halo 600x’s two knobs give precise control of output in CCT mode, from 1 to 100%, and colour temperature from 2700 to 6500K.

 

amaran Halo 600x Colour performance

To test its colour performance and stability at different output settings, we used the Halo 600x in a practical scenario, using a simple set-up that included a colour test chart. The Halo 600x was fitted with the amaran Lantern 90 modifier and pictures taken of the test scenes at different output levels - 10%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% - and at a range of colour temperatures - 2700K, 3200K, 5500K and 6500K. Two cameras were used, the Canon EOS R5 and the Sony A1 II, and each was set to a manual white-balance value to match the Halo 600x’s colour output.

From this test, it’s safe to say that the Halo 600x gives a more than respectable and stable colour performance through its output range with minimal colour variance.

To see the results in more detail, please click on the thumbnails below.

 

Our test scene comprised test charts, natural colours and neutral tones, so any colour shifts would be easily identified.

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 2700K

Canon EOS R5 manual WB

set to 2700K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 2700K, Canon EOS R5

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 3200K

Canon EOS R5 manual WB

set to 3200K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 3200K, Canon EOS R5

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 5600K

Canon EOS R5 manual WB

set to 5600K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 5600K, Canon EOS R5

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 6500K

Canon EOS R5 manual WB

set to 6500K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 6500K, Canon EOS R5

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 2700K

Sony A1 II manual WB

set to 2700K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 2700K, Sony A1 II

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 3200K

Sony A1 II manual WB

set to 3200K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 3200K, Sony A1 II

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 5600K

Sony A1 II manual WB

set to 5600K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 5600K, Sony A1 II

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 6500K

Sony A1 II manual WB

set to 6500K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 6500K, Sony A1 II

 

The amaran Halo 600x has a USB-C port for DMX control, there’s NFC and Bluetooth connectivity for control with the free amaran app.

 

amaran Halo 600x Verdict

The amaran Halo 600x is a powerful, reliable monolight that’s built to withstand the bangs and bumps of everyday photographic life. It performed exceptionally with no issues arising during our test period. 

The Halo 600x ran for several hours with the fan set to its High setting and it didn’t overheat, even when a modifier was fitted. 

In terms of light, the Halo 600x delivered plenty of power even when fitted with a modifier, and that light was colour consistent at different output levels. 

Ultimately, unless you need a full colour RGB light, the amaran Halo 600x is a great value, high performing monolight with much to commend it. With no serious shortcomings to report, it comes highly recommended for creators of all levels.

 

amaran Halo 600x Pros

• Powerful
• Controllable down to 1% output
• 2700-6500K
• Accurate colour temperature output
• Integral cooling fan
• Bowens modifier mount
• Option of app control
• Special effects
• Design and build quality
• Support of amaran’s accessory and modifier system
• DMX control (Digital Multiplex control – remote control)

 

amaran Halo 600x Cons

• To be honest, at this price and with this level of performance, nothing
• A carry case would have been nice, but of course, that would impact the price

 

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4|R_handling=4.5|R_performance=4.5|R_value=5|R_overall=4.5|A_level=4.5|E_id=8016[/REVIEW_FOOTER]