Photography News

There are moments when the street offers nothing back. No gesture, no alignment, no interruption — just space, air, a sky that refuses to hold anything except itself, a line cutting across almost by accident, a billboard drifting at the edge already dissolving into irrelevance.  

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The Canon RF 20-50mm f/4L IS USM PZ is a lens built around a specific kind of shooter: someone who wants wide angle coverage, reliable stabilization, and smooth power zoom control, all in one relatively compact package. At $1,400, it sits in territory where performance has to justify the price tag. 

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  1. What Gear Do I Need?

A standard lens or something with a slightly more length can make isolating detail easier while a tripod will help you make sure everything is aligned and straight. 

 

2. What Should I Look For? 

Patterns are everywhere, you just have to look carefully at what you're photographing. You may find it a little difficult at first but once you've trained your eye, you'll see patterns all over. Try and search for single items that are repetitive such as a row of windows or a more random pattern such as apples in a basket.

Here are just a handful of places to look for patterns:

• Buildings – windows, doors, steps, columns, roof tiles, brickwork, whole buildings if you can find a good location to shoot from.
• Markets – gift shops, stalls selling fruit, veg etc.
• Beach – stones, patterns in the sand, pebbles, seaweed
• Sky – clouds, flocks of birds flying overhead

 

 

3. Where Should I Stand? 

If possible, stand straight-on to the surface you're photographing and make sure the patterns straight. This will help turn distant shapes into the patterns you're looking for. If you can, get up high as you'll be able to photograph roof tiles then back on the ground take a look at what's under your feet as floor tiles and bricked pavements will create interesting patterns that are worth photographing. If you can't get straight on to your subject don't worry; shooting from a slight angle gives you the chance to use a little blur to guide the eye to a certain part of the image. You do this by adjusting the aperture, shooting wide open.

4. Crop In Where Possible 

The key to a successful pattern shot is to make sure there's nothing around it that would distract the viewer away from it so move your feet to get close or use your zoom to fill the frame. If it's not possible to crop in camera you can always open your images up in the editing software you use and use the crop tool.
 

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Finding a fast, versatile zoom for APS-C mirrorless that doesn't cost as much as a full frame body is genuinely difficult. The Tamron 17-70mm f/2.8 sits in a spot where very few lenses compete. 

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Shooting a wedding with one camera is a gamble. One malfunction, one missed moment, and there's no recovering it. That's the core reason most working wedding photographers carry two camera bodies, but the backup argument is only part of the story. 

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Fog doesn't wait. When it rolls in at dawn and burns off by mid-morning, the window for shooting is measured in minutes, and whether you get the shot comes down to what you did the night before. 

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It might seem strange to be out on the beach at night with your camera but you can get some interesting pictures so delay the visit to the pub for a little longer and do some night-time coastal photography once you have your sunsets in the bag.

  1. When To Shoot

The usual thinking for low light work is to shoot while there is still some colour in the sky and this helps avoid those stark black backgrounds. This is definitely good advice and helps you avoid pictures with too much light pollution, which comes out a yucky yellow and can look horrible. But after you've got your sunset shots, stay out after the twilight hour and continue shooting to even later.

You can try this photography at any time of the year, however you may prefer to wait until later in the year when the sunset isn't as late so you don't have to stay out for as long or late.

 

2. What To Shoot

As the sun sets, try shooting silhouettes or if the sky is particularly impressive, make this your focus. Later on, what you shoot is dependent on where you are. If you are at a traditional seaside resort with some nightlife there may be a pier and amusements that are worth shooting. On night's that are clear and the moon is full, try shooting some seascapes decorated in moonlight.

 

 

3. White Balance

The colours you get with different artificial lamps can vary, and you can get orange or green colour casts depending on the light type. Leave the camera in auto white balance and see how it copes with the light source. If you do not like the look of the results, try setting the colour temperature manually. To be honest, though, do not worry too much about weird colour casts because they can embellish the moodiness of the scene.

 

4. Flashguns

You could introduce your own light to close-by subjects thanks to flashguns. The flashgun on the camera hot-shoe will work fine for many scenes but beware of glare off glossy surfaces. 

 

5. Longer Exposures

Another way is to have the camera on the tripod, open the shutter on a long exposure setting of a few seconds or use the Bulb setting with a remote release to keep the shutter open while you fire the flash several times to light up foreground features. If you're working on the sand do make sure your tripod is balanced and secure.  This painting with light technique is fun and will need several attempts to perfect so don't expect to get it right straight away. When trying this technique, do not stand between the subject and the camera and fire the flash because your ghostly image will show. 

 

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Harlowe has just launched the Rocket Air, a brand-new tripod that is bundled with a fluid head, providing a wonderfully light solution for hybrid shooters. The fluid head has a leveling adjustment, so for me, this makes it the perfect travel tripod for photography. If I want to shoot some video too, the fluid head has very good dampening to absorb external vibrations and resist rapid, jerky movements. 

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Thypoch has been slowly making a name for itself in the industry and is no stranger today to creating modern manual lenses that pay homage to classic lenses—starting with the Simera, Eureka, and now the Ksana. The 21mm f/3.5 Asph is Thypoch's first entry in the new "Ksana" series, designed to be an ultra-light and compact everyday lens with vintage rendering. If you must know, the name Ksana comes from the Sanskrit word Kṣaṇa (क्षण /ˈksɑːnə/), representing the eastern concept of the "instant" or the duration of a sudden enlightenment.

 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Leon88 (Day 20 - 'Dog').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 16

Summer Show

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Day 17

Castles

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Day 18

Close-Up Portraits

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Day 19

Puddles

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  Day 21

Family Vacation

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Day 22

Statues & Sculptures

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Day 23

Plane

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

In photography, there's always a tension between control and immediacy. On one side, you have post-production, refinement, and the ability to shape an image long after it's been captured. On the other, there's the raw act of photographing in real time, where decisions are irreversible.

"Dogma 11" sits firmly in the second camp.

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On June 1, 2026, GoPro filed a document with the Securities and Exchange Commission that no company ever wants to file. Its auditor, PricewaterhouseCoopers, had attached a going-concern warning to GoPro's 2025 accounts, the formal accounting language for substantial doubt that a business can survive the next twelve months.  

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Choosing between raw and JPEG isn't just a technical preference; it directly affects how much you can recover and reshape an image in post. This helpful video tests this in a setting where the stakes are real: a Grand Canyon sunset, shot across four current-generation camera bodies. 

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Lightroom's masking tools are the single biggest gap between a flat edit and one that looks professionally dialed in. Most people skip them entirely, and their edits suffer for it. 

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Buying a compact camera when you already own a full frame setup sounds like a step backward. The Canon PowerShot V1 makes a surprisingly strong case that it isn't. 

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Landscape photography's a wide topic, however, there are certain key elements which appear in various shots, taken by many different photographers, as they help add an extra level of interest or give shots mood and more impact.

  1. Capture Images Of Trees

 

A subject which is photogenic at any time of the year, trees, either on their own or stood shoulder-to-shoulder in a large forest, are strong structures that add interest to wide landscapes and become dominant and striking when photographed on their own. They can give images a sense of scale and when photographed up close, make excellent textures for adding to other photos at later dates.

For more tips on shooting trees, take a look at this tutorial: Ten Top Ways To Photograph Trees

 

2. Shooting Interesting Skies

 

The sky, and how much of it is in-frame, will change the overall focus and feeling of the image you're trying to take. Dark, rain-filled clouds will add drama while white clouds sat against a blue sky will create a completely different feeling altogether. Interesting skies can occur at any time of year and at any time of day so you just have to be aware of the conditions and keep an eye on what’s happening.

If you have a sky full of interesting cloud formations the key is to making sure the clouds aren't too bright. Check your histogram if you're unsure. Make sure you're ready to shoot an interesting formation as soon as you see it as they change shape quickly and if the clouds are rather breath-taking remember to lose some of the ground to make the sky your focus.

Blurring the movement of the clouds is an interesting effect that can also help create leading lines to guide the eye through the photograph. If you're shooting on a brightish day you'll need to fit an ND filter so you can use the slower shutter speeds without too much light reaching the sensor.

As briefly mentioned above, if the sky is really impressive, shift the horizon down so the sky dominates the frame. It does still help to have some land in the image, though as this adds foreground interest as well as scale to the shot.

For more tips on shooting skies, take a look at this article: How To Photograph Interesting Skies. We also have an article on Capturing Mood In Your Photos as well as a Top Ten On Photographing Sunsets.

  3. Use Water In All Its Forms 

 

Be it lakes, rivers, streams or ponds, water often plays a big part in landscapes. It can be used to add a sense of movement to what would be a static image, reflections on its surface can add depth and in winter, frozen water adds another element of interest to landscape shots.

For more tips on shooting water in the landscape, take a look at these tutorials:

• How To Blur Water
• Top Reflection Photography Tips
• Photographing Rivers
• Ice Photography Advice

 

4. Capture Patterns And Textures

 

Taking the time to emphasise shapes, patterns and textures that appear in nature can help create a strong image when isolated from what's around them. This works particularly well for black and white shots when you need ways to separate the different elements in your frame. Why? Well, when taking landscapes in colour, it's easy to see different elements in the landscape but once the colours are taken away, the various elements tend to blend together more as the tones are similar once converted to black and white. Seek out strong shapes in the landscape such as walls and trees that might provide a leading line into the landscape. Strong distinctive shapes are easier for the eye to pick out and understand even when the tones are similar.

Strong, side-light will enhance textures so head out early or late in the day when the sun's decided it doesn't want to hide behind clouds.

For more tips on using textures and patterns, take a look at these tutorials:

• What Looks Good In Black And White?
• How To Photograph Black And White Landscapes
• Photographing Textures On Buildings
• Tips On Photographing Textures

 

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Image Credit: Niah Aldrich / Westcott

 

Photographers and filmmakers know the exact struggle of traveling with traditional V-flats. Known as fragile and bulky to lug around, Westcott has finally changed that with a new collapsible V-Flat that's built to last and actually portable enough to travel with.

This isn't your typical foam board. The Westcott V-Flat combines a sturdy aluminum frame with fabrics you can toss in a washing machine. No more worrying about dents, chips, or warping after a few shoots.

Photographers and filmmakers now have the ability to travel with full-size V-Flats.

We designed the Westcott V-Flat to give creators the light control they expect without the headaches that come with foam core. It travels easily, sets up fast, and holds up shoot after shoot.

– Brandon Heiss, President of Westcott

 

Image Credit: Niah Aldrich / Westcott

 

What Makes It Different

The standout feature is how compact it gets. When you're done shooting, the whole unit folds into a 45" by 9" by 6" carry case. Most traditional V-Flats are just too unwieldy for location work, but this one packs down neatly so you can easily throw it in your trunk or backseat.

Setup is hassle-free. There are no tools required, and you'll have it ready to go in under five minutes. The magnetic feet have rubber grips so nothing slides around mid-shoot, and switching between black and white fabric panels takes seconds depending on what your lighting setup needs.

 

Size and Versatility

Each side measures 41" by 84", and when fully opened, you get 82" by 84" of usable surface. The frame pivots anywhere from 15 to 180 degrees, giving you total control over the angle. You can bounce light, block sunlight coming through windows, create dramatic shadows, flag unwanted light, or even use it as a backdrop. Basically, any lighting problem on set can be solved with this thing.

 

Image Credit: Westcott

 

Where to Buy

The Westcott V-Flat is in stock now at authorized Westcott dealers and directly through the official Westcott V-Flat collection page. Options include single-frame setups with your choice of black or white, a two-pack bundle, or individual fabric replacements if you want to mix and match.

For more information, please visit the Westcott website.

Choosing the right lens for a Sony APS-C camera is genuinely difficult right now, because the options have multiplied fast and the differences between them aren't always obvious. Curtis Padley has been shooting Sony APS-C for six years and has run through enough glass to have strong, experience-backed opinions about what actually works. 

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The chances of us ever getting the opportunity to travel back in time to witness one of the many historical conflicts that the world's seen is very slim. However, the sound of guns firing and an army marching can still be heard at battle re-enactments right across the country and they're the perfect place for a photographer to snap a few images of times long gone.
 

1. What Gear Do I Need? 

You need a good, long lens as for safety reasons, you won't be able to get right among the action. But also pack your wide lens for opportunities after the battle's over. Spare memory cards, batteries and protective gear for yourself and your camera should also have a place in your bag. Take your tripod along too as in the middle of a battle when you're trying to track the action, having your camera on a tripod will make life much easier. If it's a popular event, you may find a monopod is easier to manage and won't take up as much room.

 

2. Safety First

Before we talk about technique, we must mention safety. Safety is the number one concern of all the people taking part and the event organisers. You must obey the rules and if you're not allowed in certain areas please don't ignore the ropes and barriers that are put in place. They're there to protect you and the people around you and stepping over them to get a better photo will only upset the proceedings.

 

3. Arrive Early

Battle re-enactments are popular events and crowds are challenging at the best of times and that's before you've got your camera out! If you can, arrive early or stay later than the main crowd to maximise your chances of getting a collection of good shots.

 

4. Do Your Research

Prior to the main event familiarise yourself with the battlefield and find the best positions to photograph from. Find a spot that gives you a good viewpoint of the whole field and don't forget about the background - you'll be very annoyed when you get home if your brilliant battle shot is ruined by a burger van sitting in the background.

 

5. Capture Portraits

At some events, there will be a camp which you can walk around, soaking up the sights and sounds of the past. There will be plenty of people who often do expect to be photographed but do remember it's always polite to ask permission first. It will also give you the chance to tell them a little bit about yourself and explain what you're trying to achieve. This will also give you the chance to make sure the little details are correct. You'll be surprised how asking someone to fasten a shirt higher or move a strand of hair out of the way will make a big difference to your final image.
 

6. Follow The Action

Once the battle begins, stick to your chosen position and make sure all of your attention is on the action. As your camera's on a tripod you can use it as a spotting scope to home in on the action. Make sure you listen to the people who are part of the re-enactment too as the orders they shout out will help you know where you need to focus on the field. You'll find fast shutter speeds are needed and make sure you have your panning technique perfected before you arrive so you don't miss a shot.
 

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1. Camera Choices

If you have one, use an interchangeable lens camera but compact or smartphone users shouldn't think this means they can't shoot good portraits. Select Portrait Mode as this will tell the camera you want to use a wider aperture to throw the background out of focus. It also helps if you use the telephoto end of the zoom, just keep the camera steady as shake can be emphasised when working closer to your subject.
 

2. Lens Options

You want to throw the background out of focus and using a telephoto lens will make this job easier. A telephoto lens also creates a more flattering perspective.

  3. Should I Use A Tripod?

Longer lenses may create a more pleasant and natural-looking portrait but when you're working hand-held shake can be a problem. To combat this, don't let your shutter speed value drop lower than your focal length when working hand-held or just put your camera on a tripod.

 

4. Sun Direction

Soft morning or evening light is good for portraits but sometimes we don't have a choice but to shoot when the sun's more direct and high in the sky. Most people will position themselves so the sun sits behind them, facing their subject but this will only cause them to squint. Instead, position your subject so the sun sits behind them. This will diffuse the light and make yoke subject 'pop' out of the frame by creating a halo of light around their head. Just remember you'll need to meter from your subject's face to get your exposure right as if you meter manually from the background, you'll end up with a silhouetted subject.

 

 

5. Shadows

Shooting with the sun behind your subject can leave unsightly shadows under the nose and eyes. A pop of flash will remove them but this can look a little artificial, particularly if you're using a compact camera where the flash is more direct, so try using a reflector to bounce extra light into the shot. If you're working alone you'll need to compose your shot and set the camera on a self-timer or use a remote release to set the exposure going so you can hold the reflector in place. If your subject's hands aren't going to be in the shot you could get them to hold it or rope a friend into being your assistant if you can. If you do want to use flash, take it off your hotshoe (if using a DSLR) and bounce it off a reflective surface to diffuse it.

 

6. Find Shade

The light in shaded areas is more even and is less likely to have spots of bright light and harsh shadows, making them easier to work with.

 

7. Background

Even though you're outdoors you don't want the background to overshadow your subject so make sure it's not too busy and throw it out of focus. A wider aperture and putting some distance between your subject and the background will help you achieve this.

  8. Natural Props

You're in the outdoors so use the trees, leaves and flowers around you in your portraits. Subjects sometimes don't know what to do with their hands and can look awkward as a result. To stop this, give them something to hold/lean on. Ask them to lean on a tree trunk or hold a branch. How about getting them to blow on dandelions? Or framing their faces with branches and leaves?

 

 

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