Photography News

Buying a Leica M camera, be it a film or digital model, has become a dream for many. There is immense pleasure in holding a little M rangefinder—it just oozes quality, and using it is one of photography's greatest pleasures. And let's be honest, that red dot gives you some serious street cred. 

The problem many of us run into is that once we've scraped enough pennies together to buy a Leica, we then have the issue of buying glass for it. Leica lenses cost a small fortune, and owning two to three focal lengths is often just not financially viable.

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If you've been shooting professionally for more than a year, you've met all of these people. They aren't bad people. Most of them are perfectly lovely humans who simply have no frame of reference for how professional photography works, what it costs, or why you keep making that face when they ask for "just a few small changes."  

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Standard and wide-angle focal length primes can be remarkably compact and portable, as these three Nikon Z primes illustrate.

 

There was a time when zoom lenses were considered second class citizens, optically inferior to their fixed focal length brethren. As optical design advanced, zooms got better, so much so that when it comes to performance, a high-end zoom can match or even surpass what a prime lens can deliver. Put simply, the choice of prime or zoom lens is no longer a consideration of optical performance and there are other factors that come into play.

There’s no right or wrong when it comes to lens choice, it just depends on what you want, your budget and how you prefer to work.

 

A fast wide-angle such as the Sony FE 16mm f/1.8 suits interior work and more specialist subjects such as astro photography. For people photography, the Sony 85mm f/1.4 is just the ticket.

 

Zooms are hugely flexible when it comes to framing the photograph and a wide variety of different compositions can be achieved without changing camera position and that’s a major attraction. In addition, you may be shooting in a cramped space and unable to step back or you physically can’t move closer, but with a zoom, that’s easily solved. 

Zooms also have a logistical benefit with one lens replacing a bagful. In theory, a 24-105mm standard zoom could displace a 24mm, 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm and 100mm in the bag, so there’s a significant saving in weight and money. The recently arrived Sigma 20-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DG zoom does an even better job in this respect.

 

Using a fast telephoto at its widest aperture gives a very shallow depth-of-field, so focusing must be done very carefully. Shot with an OM System 45mm f/1.8 lens (equivalent to 90mm in full frame) with an exposure of 1/50sec at f/1.8 and ISO 800. Image by Will Cheung.

 

For days out with the camera, when you want a lightweight yet versatile package, or if you’re travelling, a wide-ranging zoom has a compelling appeal. 

Of course, it’s not all one-way traffic and primes have several pluses too. Not all zooms are made equal and while high-end zooms turn in superlative image quality, that is not the case with cheaper models especially when used at their wider apertures. 

Speaking of apertures, this is one area where primes hold sway. Fast aperture zooms do exist, but they are often expensive. The Sigma 28-45mm f/1.8 DG DN Art is a fast aperture standard zoom that sells at £1039 in like new condition from MPB, while for Sony users, the FE 50-150mm f/2 GM is a remarkable optic which MPB has samples available at £3299 in like new condition.

 

Tripod-free night photography is a big benefit of fast lenses. Shot with a Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 R with an exposure of 1/70sec at f/1.4 and ISO 1600. Image by Will Cheung.

 

The recent resurgence in primes has been fuelled by the appeal of fast maximum apertures. In practical terms, this means the possibility of using lower ISO speeds for optimum image quality, faster shutter speeds and shooting at wide apertures for a shallow depth-of-field and attractive background bokeh. It’s using fast lenses at their wide settings that can give your photos a distinctive look which distinguishes them from zoom lens photos. On a point of technique, though, with such limited depth-of-field, shooting at such wide f/stops means focus must be spot-on. The camera’s AF confirmation aid might be telling you focus has been achieved but it’s still worth double-checking.

Fast primes are available from all the camera brands as well as independent manufacturers. When you start shopping for primes, one thing that will be immediately obvious is how much more you have to pay for a fraction of an f/stop. Taking two Sony lenses for example, a new FE 50mm f/1.4 GM is £1399, which is £600 less expensive than the superfast FE 50mm f/1.2 GM. Only you can decide whether it’s worth paying so much more for an extra half-a-stop. At the time of writing, MPB does not have stock of either lens so in this situation, you can create an alert – which can be cancelled at any time - by submitting your email address and you’ll be contacted when stock becomes available.

 

No light, no problem with a fast lens. This was shot with a Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 R lens wide open with an exposure of 1/40sec and ISO 3200. MPB has samples of this lens at £409 in excellent condition. Image by Will Cheung.

 

Getting the best from a prime means modifying your shooting approach, which can be a challenge to start with. You can’t zoom for a tighter or broader composition so you have to move your feet, but the process does have the benefit of making you think more about the picture and that can improve the result. 

The ideal system building option for most photographers is to concentrate on zooms but add a prime or two to complement them. You might be a keen nature shooter so adding a dedicated macro lens would make sense. For Canon users, there’s the RF 100mm f/2.8 L Macro IS USM which is £1209 from MPB in like new condition and this lens can get close enough to give 1.4x life-size magnification without any extra accessories. The Sony FE 100mm f/2 Macro GM OSS has the same potential and this is available from MPB at £1299 in like new condition.

 

A lightweight prime is the perfect companion for a day’s street photography. Taken with Zeiss Touit 50mm f/2.8 lens with an exposure of 1/80sec at f/8 and ISO 200. Image by Will Cheung.

 

If your zoom collection comprises lenses with modest maximum apertures, a good move would be a fast prime which gives options when light levels drop. Canon users could go for the RF 24mm f/1.8 Macro IS STM at £419 in like new condition. Its fast aperture suits street and general shooting while its close focusing skills add an extra dimension. For Fujifilm X-System owners, there’s the choice of two 50mm lenses which give the equivalent of 75mm in full-frame so ideal as portrait lenses. The Fujifilm XF 50mm f/1.0 is available from £804 in excellent condition but you can sacrifice the speed and go for the more compact and cheaper XF 50mm f/2 R WR on sale from MPB at £259 in excellent condition.

If you’re tempted by going prime, make MPB your first port of call. As the world’s leading used gear dealer, MPB has a huge range of imaging gear on its books and incoming kit is thoroughly checked by its experts before being offered for sale. On most lenses, there is a wide choice available with the price set according to the item’s condition. Check out your trading options now on the MPB website.

 

 

News from MPB

With spring in the air, it’s time to consider your outdoor photography options so if you need any help making the most of the cash, check out MPB’s Best Cameras for Landscape Photography here. MPB’s Connor Redmond offers essential advice if you’re keen to up your landscape game. Whether you’re looking for a DSLR, mirrorless, compact or medium-format, this feature is a great place to start your buying journey.

  MPB Explained

You need kit to take photographs and produce videos, and taking the used route is a cost-effective way of making the most of your budget and keeping up with the latest developments in imaging technology.

MPB is one of the biggest used retailers with bases in the UK, Germany and the USA.

Trading with MPB the process is fair, safe, painless and incredibly easy.

Whether you have kit to sell, want to make a purchase or part exchange, start by going to the MPB website which is intuitive and straightforward to use.

If you have kit to trade, just start typing the name in and a list of suggestions from MPB’s huge database will appear. If a name on that list matches your product click on it and add its condition; if not, continue typing in the whole name and condition.

It’s worth bearing in mind that MPB’s database covers much more than cameras and lenses so if you have, for example, a photo backpack, tripod or filters to sell these can be shown as you type in their name too.

With all your kit listed, add contact details and a quote will appear in your inbox soon afterwards, although manually entered items will take one working day.

If you are happy with the quote, accept it and follow the instructions to get the kit ready for courier collection on a day to suit you. For higher-value deals, an MPB account manager will also be in touch, so you have a personal point of contact if you have any queries.

Once received by MPB, you will get a notification and after checking by its product specialists you will receive a final quote. This can vary from the original quote if there is a missing item —like a battery not being supplied—or your assessed condition differs from the actual condition.

A quote can go down, but it can also increase if the kit’s condition is better than your assessment.

The whole process doesn’t take long and MPB are in touch by e-mail at every step so you’re never in the dark, and only when you are totally happy with the deal, pass on your payment details or pay the balance in the case of part-exchange. Either way, the money or your new kit will be with you soon after.

Get A Quote From MPB Today

 

About MPB

• MPB is the largest global platform to buy, sell and trade used photo and video kit.
• MPB is the simple, safe and circular way to trade, upgrade and get paid.
• MPB is not a marketplace, instead buying directly from visual storytellers and evaluating all items before reselling MPB-approved kit.
• MPB's dynamic pricing engine provides the right price upfront for all items.
• Circularity is at the centre of MPB, promoting sustainability, diversity and inclusion in everything they do.
• MPB prioritises inclusive recruitment and supports employees with extensive training and development. They promote inclusive visual storytelling and an inclusive circular economy.
• MPB's business model is 100% circular. All packaging is 100% plastic-free. Their cloud-based platform uses 100% renewable electricity.
• MPB recirculates more than 570,000 products annually
• MPB provides first-class customer service. Customers can receive support through their Help Centre or by speaking directly with a kit expert.
• MPB's product specialists are trusted by thousands of visual storytellers in the UK.
• MPB is rated ‘Excellent’ on Trustpilot with over 37,000 reviews.

Visit The MPB Website

                                                                                                                           

ePHOTOzine members can enjoy exclusive savings on PortraitPro 24 from Anthropics Technology.

Edit whole shoots in just minutes. Highly rated by leading industry publications, PortraitPro 24 is the world’s first intelligent retouching software, powered by advanced Generative AI and smart tools for fast, professional results.

 

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• Seamlessly switch between faces in group shots.
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• Utilise a streamlined preset search box.
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• (Exclusive to Studio Max) Apply multiple presets to each picture.

 

"This feature alone (Glasses Reflection Remover) would pay for the upgrade after repairing just a couple of shots spoiled by the reflections in a subject's glasses, mainly in time saving."
 

Professional Image-Maker

 

Download your free trial today and discover what PortraitPro can do for your portraits!

 

 

Buy PortraitPro 24 or upgrade at 50% off, plus enjoy an exclusive extra 20% off with the code EPJ26.

See Anthropics Bundles for further savings.

 

 

Some people put their pets before family and have images of their favourite dog sat alongside their wedding, holiday and children's pictures. This might be you too! Of course, you are stuck if you do not have a dog, but the odds are you know someone with one so if you are really keen, finding a subject is not an issue.
 

1. Kit Suggestions 

 

In terms of kit, all you need is a camera with a lens or two. Or you could try something like using a Lens Baby for a different effect. If you're heading to a dog show consider taking a smaller camera bag as space can be a premium and leave the tripod at home. 
 

2. Do They Like The Camera?

 

Having a trained dog that's used to being in front of a camera will make things easier. You don't want to get your camera out to find they either want to eat it or won't come near you because they're unsure about it. Some dog could not give two hoots; others will just scamper away.

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3. Get Them Running Around 

 

Pet photography is a popular subject, but most people tend to snap their dog when sitting, rather than capturing the active moments dogs are well known for.

Shots of your pet running and chasing around are far more interesting than a static shot of them sat on a rug in front of the fire. But to capture them it takes some planning and dogs running around are fast and they can be unpredictable. Having someone with you (your partner? Kids?) definitely will be a help because you can ask them to call for the dog while you concentrate on shooting.

Try autofocus with continuous shooting and see if it can track the subject. It might cope well but as dogs move quickly and their coats are low contrast, autofocus can be tricky so try manually pre-focusing on a particular spot and when your dog runs to it, press the shutter.

You'll need a reasonably fast shutter but not so fast that the dog is frozen in the image. Having a mix of sharpness and blur can work well, or just use an even slower shutter speed for more blur to exaggerate its movement. 
 

4. Get Down Low 

 

We're used to standing and looking down on dogs so a shot from this height is nothing special. So instead, try getting down to your dog's eye level or even lower. Kneel, lie (but there's no need to roll over!) to produce a much more dynamic and interesting shot. With features like LiveView, getting a composition from ground-level is easy enough. Of course, there are times when shooting from a higher angle works well such as in the shot at the top of the article.

  5. Exposure Tips 

 

Expose for the dog and not the surroundings. If you have a particularly dark or light dog you may find exposure compensation helps the camera meter correctly. As with human portraiture, it's also important for the eyes to be sharp but again, due to the speed they move, this can be difficult to perfect.
 

6. Natural Light Is Your Friend

 

Natural light is good but as with humans, dogs look less good in contrasty light. For maximum detail in the coat, a bright sky when the sun is gently diffused by high cloud can work well. If the day is quite dull, try fitting the flashgun to lighten the shadows or try underexposing the daylight so your lit subject stands out proudly from a darker sky - it can be a great look.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

I've been asked more times than I can count when I'm finally going to move on from my DSLR. The assumption is always the same. People think that holding on is a technical decision, or a reluctance to keep up. But the truth is, it has very little to do with technology at all. Read on to find out why my Nikon D850 is still the camera that I reach for most today. 

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Lens flare is one of those problems that can ruin an otherwise great shot, and the usual fixes in Lightroom take time and skill. A trick circulating in the landscape photography community suggests using Lightroom's reflection removal tool, originally designed for shooting through glass, to clean up lens flares instead.  

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Fog, rain, and low light are the conditions most people pack away their cameras for. This photographer shoots in exactly those conditions on purpose, and the reasoning is worth understanding. 

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Losing the joy of photography is easier than it sounds, and getting it back isn't always about better gear or more exotic locations. Sometimes the problem is entirely mental, and recognizing that is harder than it looks. 

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Fog, muted tones, and a dull day at Hickling Broad Nature Reserve on the Norfolk Broads make for some of the most compelling images in this video, and that's exactly the point. The difference between a snapshot and a photograph comes down to one thing: how much time and thought you put into making it. 

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When photographers turn their attention to using lengthy shutter speeds at the coast, the sea takes on a silky, mist-like quality that meanders and contrasts against dark rocks and other strong static subjects found in the coastal landscape. These images are popular with landscape fans and with the right gear and a little bit of know-how, you too can capture these types of eye-catching imagery.  

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1. Time Of Day 

Early morning is a time that's favoured by photographers and it's also the perfect time when trying to create this particular effect as lower light levels increase exposure times. The downside is that ideally, you do have to get up really early, we're talking before dawn, however, if you have an ND filter in your bag, you don't have to worry about setting your alarm clock too early if you prefer later starts. 

 

2. Using ND Filters 

For those who are wondering, an ND filter will stop as much light reaching your camera's sensor and as a result, increase your exposure times. This means you can use longer shutter speeds even at times when normally, you wouldn't be able to as your shots would turn out overexposed. ND filters are available in a variety of strengths and the stronger the filter, the longer your shutter speeds will be. Variable NDs are useful when you're not sure what strength you'll need but normally, exposure times of around 30 seconds or more will really blur the motion of the water.

The problem with ND filters which have a greater density is they're very dark which can make it tricky to compose your shots through your viewfinder or when using LiveView but you can sort your settings and composition before fitting the filter under these circumstances. It's also worth noting that some cameras allow you to boost the image when using LiveView so it's worth checking your camera settings. 

Another filter you might find useful is an ND Grad for when the sky is appearing too bright when the land is correctly exposed. By fitting one in front of your lens, the exposure will be balanced and the final image is closer to how the eye sees the real thing. 

 

LiveView without the filter in place.

 

LiveView with the filter in place.

 

3. Carry Your Tripod 

Make sure you use a tripod as you'll just end up with shaky shots if you try to work without one when using longer shutter speeds. Plus, a tripod will help you ensure your horizon's straight along with your camera's grid or even a small spirit level fitted to your camera's hot-shoe. A remote or cable release will minimise shake and if your camera has the feature, put LiveView into good use but do keep an eye on your battery levels as power will be depleted quickly and you don't want the battery to die half-way through your long exposure. Finally, pack a lens cloth to keep your lens/filter sea-spray free and always clean your equipment when back home. 

 

4. Location, Location, Location

If you get the chance, scout a few locations out before you head off with your kit. Obviously, you need to be along the shore but lookout for locations where foreground detail such as rocks and driftwood will add interest to your image. Try using lower angles to exaggerate the size of rocks etc. sitting in your foreground and don't forget about your main focal point. You could even use foreground interest to guide the eye through the shot to the lighthouse, pier etc. 

 

 

5. Tide Times 

Noting the tide times is not only important from a safety perspective but you also want the water level to be at the right point along the shore. Plus, if you can time your visit for when the tide's going out, the sand will still be damp and decorated with patterns created by the receding tide and rocks will have more definition thanks to the wet surface creating shine. If you don't mind a little trial and error, you can also use the line created by the sea as it moves back out to guide the eye to your main point of interest.

 

6. Apertures, Autofocus & ISO

Narrow apertures (try f/11 or f/16 and go from there) are what you're aiming for and stick to lower ISOs. Frame up and check your composition carefully, without the filter attached if it's particularly dense. Use the autofocus function to focus on your main focal point, although the low light levels can mean your lens keeps searching so you may need to use a torch to highlight part of the scene so it can focus on it. Once happy, lock your focus, making sure you don't knock the focusing ring on your lens in the process.

 

 

7. Test Shots

Again, if you are working with a particularly dense filter, now's the time to take a test shot and check your histogram as well as the image on the screen to ensure the exposure is correct (no blinking highlights or shadows). Make a note of the shutter speed and attach the filter. You then need to use this shutter speed to help you calculate the correct exposure length. Most filters come with an information chart/conversion table to help with this or you can download an app that'll provide the same information.

If there's some of the scene visible when using LiveView it's worth just checking your composition once more before hitting your shutter release. You won't be able to make/see tiny adjustments but if something's not quite right with the overall composition, you should be able to adjust for it. If you find you need a shutter speed that's longer than the maximum shutter speed that your camera provides, use Bulb mode but make sure you have a remote / cable release to-hand so you don't introduce shake. 

If you're using a filter that's lighter (around 1-5EV stops) you should still be able to see the scene through the viewfinder or when using LiveView so you shouldn't have any problems working in aperture priority, focusing and composing your image with the filter fitted.

  8. Try Again 

If you don't get the results you want straight away, try decreasing the aperture further, use a denser ND filter or wait for slightly darker lighting conditions if you don't own another ND filter. If you don't own an ND filter at all, decrease the ISO (if possible), use an even smaller aperture and keep decreasing the shutter speed until you gain the correct exposure. Again, keep an eye on your histogram and be patient!   

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Spend enough time around other photographers and you start noticing patterns. Not in their work, but in their behavior. The same archetypes show up at every wedding, every event, every multi-photographer commercial job, and every workshop. You'll recognize most of them immediately. You'll probably recognize yourself in at least one, and if you don't, you're in denial. Here are the thirteen photographer personality types that exist at every shoot, identified for science. 

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Sigma lenses are divided into groups: Art, Contemporary and Sports. The Art group are lenses that aim to reflect the pinnacle of the lens makers' art, billed to be the cream of the crop, the best that can be delivered. This is a claim that has been upheld very well, continuously and reliably. Sigma have been consistently making some very fine lenses indeed. Of course, there are many companies who offer very fine lenses, so the competition is fierce. Let's see if Sigma have offered here something that is indeed a cut above the rest and can take on even the very expensive top marque optics. To take us on this voyage of discovery, we have  the lens plus the very capable 42MP Sony A7R III body. Let battle commence....

 

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II Handling and Features

The lens is solid, but not onerously so, using Aluminium and Thermally Stable Composite. These materials work well together as they have the same coefficient of expansion. Weight is a reasonable 525g, and dimensions measure 73.0mm x 96.0mm. This is much larger than a traditional 35mm f/1.4 lens would have been, but is in keeping with current design and manufacturing parameters. The whole is dust and splash resistant. The front element also has an oil and water repellent coating in addition to Sigma's AAC (Advanced Amorphous Coating) multi-coating. 

There is a provided petal shaped lenshood that clips smoothly and securely into place. A flush locking catch ensures that it stays there, and this cannot be easily pushed by accident so there is little chance that the hood could be accidentally displaced. Within the bayonet fit for the hood is a standard 67mm filter thread.

 

 

First up is the generously sized focusing ring, utterly smooth in operation as befits its electronic nature. Behind this is a selection of buttons and switches. There is the usual AF/MF switch. All the usual Sony focusing options are available – AF-S (Single shot), AF-A (Auto selection), AF-C (Continuous), DMF (Direct Manual Focus) and MF (Manual Focus). DMF enables tweaks to the focus position to be made manually when AF is active. This can be particularly useful for close up shooting where the desired point of focus may be offset from where the AF system settles.

There are two AF-L buttons, a click on/off that refers to the aperture ring click stops and an aperture ring lock. This lock can be operated when the ring is set to A, preventing it from being nudged off that setting. It can also be set when using the aperture ring values, thus preventing A being selected in error. This is a very logical and useful arrangement. The aperture ring itself is clearly marked in one third of a stop steps and is very slickly engineered.

Focusing is down to 28cm, or 11.1”, for a maximum magnification of 1:5.4. This is in line with what we might expect from a 35mm lens intended as a standard lens. AF is driven by dual HLA (High Response Linear Activator) motors using a floating focus system. AF is smooth and virtually silent as well as being fast and accurate. 

 

 

Optical construction is 15 elements in 12 groups, including 2 SLD (Super Low Dispersion) and 4 Aspherical. The diaphragm comprises 11 blades for an impressively rounded aperture. This suggests that we might be finding some gorgeous bokeh.

There is no IS built into the lens. This is provided by the Sony camera body, and is still highly effective despite the A7R III not being the latest incarnation. It does the job extremely well.

The mount is the usual high quality Sigma, the fit being firm on this A7R III. It may not be the smoothest fit, but it is solid and does the job. There are Sony FE and L mount versions of the lens, the latter fitting the Sigma USB Dock UD-11. 

There are a few places where a well-established manufacturer such as Sigma could go astray with a quality prime lens such as this, and indeed, Sigma delivers the goods very effectively. The controls are high quality and operate flawlessly. Is this quality of construction and ergonomics matched by its technical performance? Time to find out.

 

 

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II Performance

Central sharpness is excellent all the way from f/1.4, right through to f/11. It is still very good at f/16. The edges are also excellent from f/1.4 through to f/5.6 and then still very good from f/8 to f/16. This is a truly great performance.

 

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is very well controlled throughout, and colour fringing is unlikely to be an issue.

Distortion is just -0.11% barrel, an impressively low figure. The slight residual barrel distortion is the right choice anyway, as that is what our eyes expect from wide-angle lenses.

 

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is a subjective assessment of the quality of the out-of-focus areas in an image. This new lens is beautifully smooth, aided by the 11-blade construction of the diaphragm and the rounded aperture. Lovely.

Flare control is about as good as it gets and even the most harsh lighting is easily handled without any sign of artefacts.

Vignetting is present wide open, albeit not excessively so, and thereafter well under control.

 

Aperture   f/1.4 -1.6 f/2 -1.3 f/2.8 -1.3 f/4 -1.3 f/5.6 -1.3 f/8 -1.3 f/11 -1.3 f/16 -1.2

 

This all represents a very high standard of performance, definitely up there with the best.

 

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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Value For Money

The [AMUK]Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II Art|Sigma+35mm+f/1.4+DG+II+Art[/AMUK] lens is priced at £849. It is possible that stocks of the original Mk I lens might be found at £769.

Some alternatives for Sony FE fit:

• [AMUK]Samyang AF 35mm f/1.4 Prima|Samyang+AF+35mm+f/1.4+Prima[/AMUK], £528
• [AMUK]Sony FE 35mm f/1.4 GM|Sony+FE+35mm+f/1.4+GM[/AMUK], £1429
• [AMUK]Sony FE 35mm f/1.4 Distagon T” ZA|Sony+FE+35mm+f/1.4+Distagon+T”+ZA[/AMUK], £999

VFM is not only about price, so adding in the performance level, which is very strong, then this is excellent VFM.

 

 

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II Verdict

For full-frame cameras, the 35mm lens has always represented an alternative standard lens for those photographers who prefer something a little wider than the ubiquitous 50mm. Many classic compact cameras have had fixed 40mm lenses, or thereabouts. For the experienced photographer, it brings the opportunity to step in a bit closer and feel more included and intimate with the subject matter. This is particularly ideal for street/reportage shooting and brings us into a more inclusive style of street photography, becoming a part of the events unfolding rather than just an observer. Beginners may appreciate a slightly wider view that avoids clipping the edges of the subject, allowing a little more space.

The new Sigma lens is a superb performer, fitting the hands well, delivering the quality at the highest level and yet being reasonably priced. The ergonomics is a lesson in good design, and the Sigma engineers can be truly proud of the fine lens that is the fruit of their labours. It duly receives the accolade of Editor's Choice.

 

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II Pros

• Excellent central and edge sharpness
• Low distortion
• Low CA
• Fast, accurate and virtually silent AF
• Dust and splash-resistant construction
• Low vignetting
• Low flare
• Excellent handling

 

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG II Cons

• No IS inbuilt

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=5|R_performance=5|R_value=5|R_overall=5|A_level=5|A_text=Editor's Choice – A superb “wide standard” lens for full-frame cameras|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

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Outdoor portraits add levels of interest to a shot you can't always get from an indoor shoot and as this time of year particularly, it's the perfect excuse to wrap up in layers and pose in front of snow-filled scenes. No snow? Well, your highstreet at night can be an equally cool location as can be your local woods or even your backyard should you not want to walk as far. 

To kick-start your outdoor photoshoot, we've put a few easy to understand but rather essential outdoor portrait tips together for you to peruse. Plus don't forget to share your examples of outdoor portraits in our Gallery or Daily competition forum. 

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1. Get Your Lighting Right 

Once you've found a model brave enough to go out, possibly in the cold, you need to sort out your lighting. It is a good idea to have a friend or fellow photographer on hand. This applies to both male and female photographers and an extra pair of hands can be really handy to hold flashguns and look after things during the shoot.

If working a night, a powerful torch will help you focus. Just shine the light at the subject – not directly into the model's face and focus. It is worth considering shooting using manual focus for this subject because autofocus might continually adjust and throw the subject out of focus once the torch is switched off. Flash modifiers, coloured filters and lighting stands will find a use too. 

One of the big problems of using flash at night – apart from the attention (sometimes unwanted) that it attracts – is that a flashgun can pump out too much light and burn out the subject. You need to watch this and use flash exposure compensation to cut down the amount of light if that is the case. 

Another important thing to remember is the inverse square law – double the distance between the flash and the subject and the power output falls by a factor of four, not two as you might expect.

As well as on-camera type flashguns, there are several studio-quality flash units that run off portable batteries. These are more powerful than a typical flashgun and worth trying.
 

 

2. Tripod Or No Tripod? 

Your tripod is handy here too, especially if you want to mix flash and ambient lighting. That said, blurring the ambient light can be an effective technique. Any tripod will be fine, although if you have to walk some distance to your chosen shoot location you may want to consider packing a light-weight model. Carbon fibre models are lighter than those made of aluminium, although they can be cold to the touch but many tripods feature thick foam on the legs that enable a secure grip and stop you having to touch the cold surface.

 

 

3. Poses & Direction 

Make sure you've primed the model regarding poses, clothing and the location that you will be shooting in. You need to think of their comfort, dealing with the weather, keeping warm in between shots and so on. Conversation can help with the flow of the shoot but if you're not very good at banter, just be concise with your posing instructions and don't try to be something you're not. 

You can find plenty of ideas about posing in lighting in fashion magazines and in ePHOTOzine's gallery but just don't simply copy someone else's work, always put your own 'stamp' on it. You need to shoot quickly and have fresh batteries in the flashgun. Minimal messing around is a good idea too and show the model the effects you are getting as you go along. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Shooting in auto is normal. It is professional. The camera now takes over a technical layer that once demanded constant attention and experience. Exposure, white balance, tone mapping, and autofocus are handled quickly and with stable results. What used to require conscious monitoring now arrives as a reliable baseline. This does not mean the work disappeared. It means part of the work moved. 

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Waterfalls, no matter their size, are a pretty awe-inspiring naturally occurring element that stand tall in the landscape and are well worth a photo or two. With this in mind, here are some quick-fire ideas you can think about next time you're lucky enough to be photographing one. 

 

Do It Differently 

 

Instead of starting with slow shutter speeds and blurry water (we'll get to this in a bit) why not take the time to think how you can shoot the waterfall you've found on your travels differently?

1. Try standing on the curve of a riverbank so you can use the s-curves created by the flowing water to lead the eye to the waterfall. Look at the scenery to the sides of the waterfall. Do the wet rocks have particularly interesting patterns? Is the foliage particularly vibrant and as a result will make a colourful frame?

2. Closer to the waterfall take your wellies, waders and macro lens with you and photograph the bubbles that are formed.

3. When winter comes around again a few days of really cold weather can turn waterfalls into interesting ice structures and icicles on the edge of banks can turn an ordinary-looking shot into something more spectacular.

 

4. Enhance the power of the waterfall with fast shutter speeds then finally turn your attention to everyone's favourite technique - blurring water with slow shutter speeds. You need your tripod and your camera set to shutter priority. Then, pick a slow-ish shutter speed of around one to two seconds, check your composition and take your shot. If you find your shot's overexposed use a polarising filter or switch to aperture priority mode but then it can take you a while to find the right shutter speed. You can also go back to your chosen location at sunrise or sunset when the light's not as bright.

 

For more tips on photographing waterfalls, have a look at these tutorials:

• Ten Top Tips On Photographing Waterfalls
• Waterfall Photography For Beginners
• Capture Movement In Your Landscape Shots
• Photographing Waterfalls

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition