Photography News

    1. Be Patient  Photographing lively animals like cats is all about patience – try not to get frustrated if your animal won't do what you want. Remember, it is at heart a wild animal and they won't always do what you want them to do. You might want to sit around with your camera without taking photos a few times too so they get used to seeing the camera and won't attack it or run away when you take it out of its bag.   2. Be Ready The most difficult thing about photographing animals, no matter how large or small, is that they move at the most inopportune moments. Setting your camera to continuous shooting mode may help you capture a good shot as they run off in a different direction. DSLRs feature quick continuous shooting modes but don't worry if you're not a DSLR owner as many compacts also have a continuous shooting mode built-in. Compact camera owners can also switch to sport/action mode to increase your chances of getting a blur-free shot.    

 

3. Ask For Assistance 

If you are looking to capture some action or movement shots, get someone else to play with your cat, distracting them so you can get some shots of them swiping and jumping without them going for your camera. Try getting your cat to run by throwing a toy or treat, and snap it in full run. Quicker shutter speeds or switching to sports/action mode will help you freeze your cat's movement. To further enhance the feeling of speed, pan your camera, following your cat as they run. This will, hopefully, keep your cat sharp while the background is thrown nicely out of focus. If you don't want to have a go at panning, pre-focus on a spot where you know your cat will run through and hit the shutter button when they come into frame.

 

4. Candids & Close-Ups

Another technique, to create a more wild effect, is to watch your cat outside for a while and snap more candid style shots of it hunting or climbing on a wall. Try shooting side-on so you can get a shot just as it leaps into action.

If you want some close-up shots of your feline friend, try dangling a toy above it to get it to look up from the ground. You could also try getting your cat to paw at you to give the impression that it's leaping. Dangling a toy will also encourage your cat to keep still and keep its attention focused, to stop it from wandering off. For less action-based shots, why not try capturing it lying down or stretching. Some really lovely shots can be taken while they're resting/sleeping, for example.

 

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For as long as digital photography has existed, full frame has been treated as the gold standard. Camera marketing has hammered home the idea that “serious” photographers need the biggest sensor, the fastest zoom, and the heaviest glass. That narrative worked for a while, but in 2025, it’s looking increasingly out of touch.

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How can a pure photo camera still evolve in 2025? While many manufacturers push for new video features, photography itself has felt like it hit a technological plateau. Real innovations have been rare. So what should a new version of the Hasselblad X2D, already one of the best cameras in the world, actually bring to the table?

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The Reto Pano is the latest addition to Reto’s growing family of affordable and fun film cameras. With its built-in flash and panorama mode, this little point-and-shoot promises a nostalgic 90s shooting experience at the accessible price of just $35.

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DJI has once again redefined what’s possible in aerial imaging with the launch of the DJI Mini 5 Pro, the world’s first sub-250 g mini drone to feature a 1-inch CMOS sensor. Compact yet powerful, the palm-sized drone pushes its boundary with pro-level image quality, advanced safety features, and extended flight time, making it a versatile tool for creators at any level.

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When you start shaping light, modifier choice controls direction, softness, and contrast that define faces, texture, and color in a scene. Getting the order right saves money and gives photographers a flexible kit that works across portraits, products, and tight locations.

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Two of the most talked about lenses right now are the Viltrox 35mm f/1.2 and the Sigma 35mm f/1.2 DG DN Art. Both are full frame, both are designed with serious build quality, and both are capable of the kind of shallow depth of field that makes backgrounds melt away. Choosing between them is not straightforward, which makes this head-to-head comparison worth paying attention to.

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The Viltrox 85mm f/1.4 Pro is entering territory long ruled by Sony’s 85mm lenses. For portraits, this focal length has always been a favorite because of how it isolates the subject, smooths the background, and keeps images flattering. Can you get similar performance without paying a similar price?

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Wacom has introduced the Wacom One 14, a new entry-level pen display aimed at beginners and hobbyists who want an accessible way to get started with digital drawing, photo editing, and creative work.

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When buildings are illuminated at night their shapes and features are enhanced in a very different way than by daylight and it's a great time to take photographs. The most challenging thing is getting the exposure and colour balance right, which we'll help with, otherwise, the standard rules of composition apply which we'll cover briefly first.

 

1. Composition - Don't Forget The Basics 

When shooting upwards expect the building to slope inwards at the top, especially when a wide-angle lens is used. Move to a higher position to reduce the distortion or use a special shift lens that's designed to correct perspective but these are expensive and aren't really a sensible option for the casual shooter.

Try to include the whole building by using a wider angle lens or stepping back to a more suitable viewpoint. Choose the position carefully. The same building could be shot head-on, at an angle of, say, 3/4 or by using a telephoto to capture a section with a more graphical feel. Don't forget you can zoom with your feet as well as your lens, too. When it comes to focusing, manual is your best option. 

  2. Exposures

When the sun goes down the light changes in two ways; firstly the exposure time required increases and secondly the colour of the light becomes warmer. Let's first look at the exposure. In low light, the shutter speed that's necessary to ensure a good exposure will usually be too long to avoid camera shake when hand-holding the camera. Using a tripod enables you to shoot at these long exposure times of between 1/15sec and several seconds or even minutes. If you don't have a tripod you can usually find a wall, lamppost or tree to support the camera, which can help considerably. Or you can try switching to a higher ISO as most cameras now cope well in the higher ranges. This means that in low light situations, such as shooting buildings at night, you can take photos with minimal noise or blurring. You'll also want to put your camera's self-timer into action or use a remote release if you have one as even pressing the shutter button can introduce shake that'll leave your with blurry shots. Consider using the Mirror Lock-up function, too which can be accessed via your camera's menu. 
 

3. Metering

Low light can also fool the camera's meter and this happens because it looks at the mass of dark and tries to compensate to make it mid-grey. By doing so, you get an exposure time that is too long for all the illuminated parts of the scene, such as neon lights, street lights or spotlit areas of a building as they become grossly overexposed.

To avoid this, you need to compensate for it. As a guide, use your exposure compensation setting to reduce the exposure by a couple of stops when most of the area is in darkness and by one stop when the building has a medium coverage of illumination.

 

4. Colour Balance

Illuminated buildings offset against a dark sky can look great, but you have to be careful with the colour as there can be a slightly orange or yellow cast created. Buildings illuminated by artificial light can also be problematic, depending on the lighting used in them. Two popular types are Fluorescent and Tungsten. Fluorescent tend to be used inside in offices and Tungsten in spotlights that part illuminates buildings.

With digital cameras, you can preview the image to check the colour balance and if it doesn't look right, just change the white balance setting you're using. Cloudy will warm your shots up while the Tungsten options will give your images a more blue tone. 

  5. Security

Take care when carrying a camera around at night, especially if you're venturing off the beaten track. Keep alert and where possible, take a friend with you.

  6. What To Capture 

Look for tall buildings you can shoot from. From up high you'll be able to shoot skylines as well as focus on single buildings. For something different, try to shoot the same location in daylight and in the evening. You'll soon see how buildings have a very different feel at night. Cropping in on illuminated buildings can make the image more striking and reduce the black from the surrounding, unlit areas. To give streetlights a 'starburst' use a small aperture which will also give you front-to-back sharpness in your shots too. Exposure times will be longer but if you have your tripod, this won't be an issue. If people are still exploring the city you can use them to add more interest to your shots. Get creative with silhouettes against well-lit structures or how about using slightly longer shutter speeds, say 1/2 a second, to blur the movement of people who pass through your shot. Don't increase your exposure times too much if you want to keep the patterns people create passing through your images though as anything above 15 seconds will probably remove them from your image. Bridges can be used to draw the eye through the image to a particular structure or focus your attention on famous buildings and landmarks which are guaranteed to be lit-up at night.

 

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Micro Four Thirds has been declared “dead” so many times you’d think it was a cat working its way through nine lives. Year after year, people predict its collapse, citing smaller sensors and the dominance of full frame. And yet, here we are in 2025, with OM System unveiling one of the most audacious lenses in recent memory. The M.Zuiko Digital ED 50–200mm f/2.8 IS PRO doesn’t just extend the format’s lifespan; it makes a strong case that Micro Four Thirds might be the most interesting platform in photography right now.

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AI-based software company Evoto held its first-ever live-streamed event today to announce its latest build, Evoto 6.0, featuring numerous powerful updates designed to streamline retouching for photographers. Evoto Instant, a new platform aimed at event shooters seeking the fastest possible turnaround and delivery of their images, was also announced.

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There’s always room in your gear bag for a 360 camera to help you document what you do. What’s even better is that now, you have highly evolved tech and multiple options for it.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Mike43 (Day 13 - Stairs & Steps).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 9

Bridges In The Landscape

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Day 10

Music Photography

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Day 11

Shopping

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  Day 12

City Skylines

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Day 14

Lights

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Day 15

High-Up

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

Not every meaningful photograph comes from epic adventures. Humble photography shows that beauty, expression, and discovery are possible wherever you are and whoever you are—at a pace that fits your life.

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The Ricoh GR IV is small, pocketable, and aimed at being the kind of camera you always have with you. Street photography demands speed, sharpness, and reliability, and this release promises to step up from the older GR III with a new sensor, better autofocus, and improved image stabilization. The question is how much those changes actually matter when you’re out shooting.

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A lens that gives you reach, speed, and durability changes what you can capture in the field. When that lens is tested in Alaska’s harshest conditions, you get a clear sense of how it performs where it matters most.

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The Sony 70-200mm f/4 G II Macro and 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS are both workhorse telephoto lenses, and deciding between them often comes down to sharpness, speed, and flexibility in real-world use. These lenses serve different purposes depending on how you shoot, and knowing where the differences show up can save you from second-guessing your choice later.

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When using a tripod on terrain that is rocky, uneven, or hilly, there are a few things that you can do to make sure your tripod is as stable as it can be. Some of these tips may seem like common sense, but they will hopefully help prevent any accidents such as your camera taking a plunge in a river!

 

1. Weight And Load

Before you venture out make sure you're using a tripod that can support the weight of your gear. Also, if you're buying a new tripod and are planning on getting larger heavier lenses in the future do take this into consideration when making your purchase. Look for a light tripod rated for the highest weight as you'll soon notice the weight of your tripod once you're halfway up a wet, uneven hillside. 

 

2. Assess Your Environment

It's always better to be safe than sorry, so make sure that the area is stable enough to stand your tripod on before setting up. If you're working on very rocky terrain or near the edge of a big drop, make sure the tripod is not liable to slip.

It can also take a while to set your tripod up so it's always a good idea to find your location and have some ideas about composition before putting your camera on its support. 

 

3. Legs Before Column

When setting up, extend the legs before extending the centre column. Extending just the centre column is one quick operation and you are ready to shoot, but it is not good technique and can leave you with an unstable base to work with.

 

 

4. Adjust The Legs

Extend the fattest leg section first and keep the thin, spindly legs till last for when you really need the height. Having a wider base to work with is always a wise decision as they are more stable. Many tripods now offer various angle settings that lock at different degrees.

 

5. Ensure Your Tripod Is Level

Many tripods and tripod heads have built-in spirit levels to help you keep the tripod level. If your tripod hasn't, buy a spirit level to fit onto the camera's accessory shoe.

 

6. Position Of Your Tripod's Legs

Point one of the legs towards your subject so you have room for your feet between the two other legs. This will mean you have one less thing you have to worry about falling over when working on tricky terrain. 

 

 

7. What Feet Does Your Tripod Have?

Most tripods have rubber feet which absorb shock and offer good grip, but some do have spiked feet. Spiked feet can be bought as optional accessories or sometimes you can get both types in one. They're particularly useful for outdoor photographers as most of the time you'll end up working on loose soil, dirt, and other surfaces that will be uneven. 

8. Keep It Stable On Windy Days

Some tripods have a hook which you can feature a centre column hook, you can hang a bag of stones or other weighty objects off it to balance the tripod. Another option is to take a heavy camera bag and wrap the strap(s) around the tripod's head to add extra weight. For lighter tripods, use your body as a shield from the wind. Sticking spiked feet into the ground will also help keep the tripod still, they're particularly useful when working at the coast to stop waves knocking your gear into the sea. 

Another option is to use a piece of string or some nylon webbing can add extra stability. Tie one end to the centre column and have the other tied in a loop. Next time in a strong wind, have the string/webbing hanging down and slip your shoe into it and lean down. Your body weight will give extra stability.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition  

The best baseball photographs don’t always happen when the crowd is standing and the lights buzz a little hotter. Sometimes the picture you keep is the one that smells like rosin and bubblegum—the quiet breath between pitches when the game is thinking about what it wants to be next.

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