Photography News

Not having the horizon in the right place or focusing so much on other aspects that you forget to check that the horizon is actually straight is an easy mistake that many will hold their hand up to making.

This doesn't mean you can't experiment with horizon angles but if you do, you need to make it obvious as a small tilt will just look like you didn't check the viewfinder before hitting the shutter button. The same goes for the positioning of the horizon as if it's positioned badly, it can distract the viewer as well as spoil the composition of your shot.

 

1. How To Keep Horizons Straight

 

To stop your landscapes looking like they're going to slide out of the side of the frame, consider investing in a small spirit level (if your tripod doesn't already have one) that can be attached to your camera or, if your camera has one, use the grid intended for helping with the rule of thirds as a guide as even though this isn't really what they were designed for, they're made up of straight lines so can be helpful when struggling to tell what level is.

  2. Where To Put The Horizon?

 

It's important that your horizon doesn't cut through the centre of your image If the sky's more interesting move it down and if the land's what the viewer should be looking at move it up. That way, they'll know where their focus is meant to be.

If you're at the coast, shooting the sea and the sky has particularly interesting cloud formations or it's an amazing sunset, lower the horizon so the sky fills most of the frame. But if you want to include some foreground interest or create the sense of distance in your image, move the horizon up. Just remember to use a small aperture so you get front-to-back sharpness.

Of course, there are times when breaking the rules do work, such as when your photo includes an eye-catching reflection in a lake, so don't dismiss putting your horizons in the centre of your images completely.

There may be a time when you're shooting a landscape where the shapes and patterns of the land are enough to hold the viewer's attention so removing the horizon completely from the shot would work, too. 

 

3. How To Adjust The Horizon's Position

 

You can either tilt the camera, move its position higher or lower or take your shot as normal and crop the image later when you're in front of your computer.

If you have lots of vertical shapes such as trees and tall buildings in your shot, tilting the camera can cause perspective problems. However, if you're at the coast without a building in sight you should be fine.

To give your camera more/less height adjust your tripod's legs. Just make sure the locks are secure before you start taking your shot as you don't want your camera to start sliding down while you're trying to frame-up. If you need more height you can adjust the centre column but do adjust the legs first before doing this as the legs offer a more stable base to work with.

 

4. How To Fix Horizons In Old Photos

 

If you do take your shot and get home before you realise it's slanting to one side or you look back at landscapes you've taken previously and notice the horizon's not quite right don't worry; a simple crop in Photoshop will have your image back upright. You can also crop your shot to shift the position of the horizon, too.
 

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- Partner Content - 

 

 

Tamron’s reputation as a manufacturer of top-quality lenses for enthusiast and professional photographers is second to none. Its current line-up includes primes and zooms such as the ultra-wide 16-30mm f/2.8 Di III VXD G2, the super versatile 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 and the powerful 50-400mm f/4.5-6.3 Di III VC VXD. Whatever your photographic interest, Tamron has a lens for you. 

First featured on the 28-75mm f/2.8 Di III VXD G2 and 35-150mm f/2-2.8 Di III VXD launched in 2021 and now making a regular feature on its products is a USB-C port, which lets users customise the lenses.

Using the Tamron Lens Utility desktop app – available for Windows and Mac - with the lens connected to the computer, firmware updates are possible directly without the need of a separate dock and different tasks and focus ring behaviour can be adjusted to suit the user’s preferences. It’s a very powerful feature and available on 19 of Tamron’s current lens family.

 

The Tamron-Link TL-01 is tiny and weighs just 2g so there’s no handling impact on the lens it’s plugged into.

 

Tamron recently introduced the Tamron-Link TL-01, which exploits the feature even more. Plug this tiny unit into the USB-C port of a compatible lens, pair it with the free Tamron Lens Utility mobile app - available for Android and iOS - on your smart device using Bluetooth and you have wireless communication and control. 

There’s an impressive range of lens features you can adjust wirelessly.

 

 

 

Tamron-Link TL-01: Quick verdict

It’s a powerful, affordable device that suits stills and video shooting with plenty of creative potential. The Tamron-Link TL-01 will clearly appeal to existing Tamron owners but it’s also a serious attraction for aspiring Tamron lens owners too, offering features not available on competitor lenses.

 

+ Pros

• Great price
• Tiny, so doesn’t impair lens handling
• Stable Bluetooth
• Digital Follow Focus features
• Mobile app is good to use and has plenty of support
• Can be used with multiple lenses

- Cons

• Lens firmware updating still needs a computer

 

 

The process of pairing the Tamron Lens Utility app on your smart device to the Tamron-Link is straightforward. The key thing is to check the ID number printed on the Tamron-Link itself.

 

Tamron-Link TL-01: Setting-up

Pairing the Tamron-Link TL-01 is easy enough and takes a few minutes. The first time you use the TL-01 with a lens necessitates setting up a password and then inputting the Tamron-Link TL-01’s ID details, which are printed on the device itself. Just follow the instruction screens on the app, and you’ll be set up and ready to go in no time. There’s also no need to worry about charging the device because it draws power from the camera’s battery.

Once the lens is connected, the Tamron-Link enables a wide range of features to be called upon wirelessly, which is obviously much more convenient than having to hook it up to a computer.

 

Tamron-Link TL-01: In use

Key handling changes include the ability to change the rotating direction of the focus barrel. The default is anticlockwise direction towards infinity (as seen from behind the camera) which matches Sony lenses, but to suit Nikon users, the direction can be changed to clockwise. The focusing barrel can also be set to cover the entire focusing distance with different amounts of rotation, with the options of 90°, 180°, 270° and 360°.  Another option is the choice of linear focus, which mimics the focusing action of traditional lenses, or non-linear, which is focusing by wire, so focusing speed depends on how quickly the focus barrel is adjusted.

Several Tamron lenses have a three position Custom Switch, and each position can be assigned to a range of features that are brought into play by pushing the Focus Set button. In the Tamron Lens Utility app, there’s a scrolling menu of options, including Select AF/MF, which toggles between autofocus and manual focus operation and Assign Function from Camera, which enables a camera function to be brought into play with the Focus Set button.

 

The Custom Switch (shown here on the 35-100mm f/2.8 Di III VXD) has a positive and firm click and the Focus Set button is on the left.

 

There are several creative features too, including Focus Time Lapse, which works together with the camera’s interval timer, Astro FC-L, which sets infinity focus at a push of the Focus Set button and Ring Function (Focus/Aperture), and this allows aperture or focus ring adjustment wirelessly, so handy when you can’t get at the lens’s controls.

On the app, there is a page called DFF, which stands for Digital Follow Focus and it’s here you can set up the focus features that suit stills and video shooting. For instance, Focus Time Lapse means you can shoot video time lapse and adjust focus at the same time, while in stills, it can be used for focus bracketing. 

For video DFF lets you pull focus with three focus points, and the speed and transition can be adjusted to suit the shot.

Using the TL-01 takes a little practice, but it’s not complicated and the app’s help menu is very good.

A range of features can be assigned to the Tamron Custom Switch and brought into play by pushing or holding (depending on what you have set) the Focus Set button.

 

Tamron-Link TL-01: Specifications

• Price: £59.99
• Length: 25.3mm
• Height: 6.6mm
• Weight: 2g
• Bluetooth class: Class 2
• Bluetooth version: 5.4
• Range Max: 5m
• Operating temperature: 0-40°C
• Operating humidity: 85% or less
• Contact: www.tamron.eu
• Click here for Tamron-Link page
• Click here to check lens compatibility with Tamron-Link 
• Click here to download iOS Tamron Lens Utility
• Click here to download Android Tamron Lens Utility 

 

Tamron-Link TL-01: Verdict

An outlay of £59 is modest when you consider what it offers with compatible Tamron lenses. Indeed, the Tamron-Link TL-01 is a bargain, so whether you already own a suitable Tamron lens or are thinking about buying one, it’s well worth having in the camera bag.

 

Tamron-Link TL-01 Pros

• Great price
• Tiny, so doesn’t impair lens handling
• Stable Bluetooth
• Digital Follow Focus features
• Mobile app is good to use and has plenty of support
• Can be used with multiple lenses

 

Tamron-Link TL-01 Cons

• Lens firmware updating still needs a computer

 

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1. What Gear Do I Need?

 

• Tripod – If you're working your way around the outside of the structure you'll need a light tripod, one with a spirit level will help.
• Wide-angle lens – Get all of the castle in one shot. Take a look at our 'top wide-angle lenses' for recommendations. 
• Longer lenses – Focus in on detail or if the castles further away, use the long reach to zoom in on the castle so it fills the frame.
• Camera bag – You need a bag that will fit all of your kit but not get you stuck when you're trying to navigate small stairwells.
• ND graduated filter – Help balance exposures when you're shooting wide, scenic views.

 

2. Do Your Research

Pre-planning can mean the difference between a successful day of shooting and only returning home with a handful of shots because you spent most of the day walking around trying to find good spots to shoot from. Have a look at how other photographers have shot the castle you're visiting. You should find plenty of advice online but if you're still stuck for ideas, have a quick look in the castle's gift shop for postcards as these should give you plenty of ideas on what angles work and won't don't.

 

3. Watch Those Verticals

If you're shooting uphill or are closer to the castle walls and are shooting up it can end up looking like the walls are sloping in on your final shot. You can buy lenses specifically designed to stop this, but they're expensive so unless you're going to shoot architecture professionally, or on a more regular basis, you're better off just correcting the shot in Photoshop after. You can also find a higher spot to shoot from and there should be plenty of windows or tops of towers you can take your photos from.

4. Include The Surroundings Or Shoot Up Close?

If the castle has particularly majestic surroundings include it but if your castle now sits surrounded by more modern buildings, crop in. For sites where there are only a few walls left standing try some close-up photography. Look for walls that are full of cracks and moss as you'll get a few shots for your texture collection.

 

 

5. Make A Frame

You won't be short of windows, doorways and arches that can be turned into frames for your photos. Just remember to include your 'frame' at the edge of the photo and, where possible, shoot straight on so your frame doesn't sit wonkily.
 

6. Lead The Eye In

Bridges over moats and corridors which seem to stretch on forever can be used to lead the viewer's eye from one point of the shot to another. If they're several archways or columns that line the corridor walls even better as they often form symmetrical patterns that will add further interest to your shot.
 

7. Inside The Castle 

If you can take your tripod inside the castle do as the darker conditions will mean you need longer shutter speeds and you can get shake in your images with you take them hand-held. 

Stairs curving up and around with the old walls make great subjects but as there's very little light, you may want to try shooting several shots at different exposures and merging them together once you're home. For more tips on HDR take a look at our previous article: HDR Tips.

If it's a particularly busy day longer shutter speeds can help 'remove' some of the tourists from your shot. Or, you could try using a shutter speed that turns the visitor's movement into ghost-like streaks for a more abstract approach.
 

8. Photograph People

At larger castles such as Warwick, you'll find people in costumes and there are often days when special events such as jousting take place. For tips on photographing re-enactments take a look at our previous articles on jousting and living museums.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to mmart (Day 28 - 'Hot-Air Balloon').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 24

Holiday Memories

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Day 25

Garden Macro Shots

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Day 26

Summer Landscapes

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Day 27

Historic Buildings

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  Day 29

Pond Life

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Day 30

Travel Shots

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Day 31

Sunrise

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

If a docking station can support or charge everything you use on your desk, this might be it. This 15-in-1 docking station powers all your devices safely and efficiently while keeping your desk neat. 

 

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Behind every lens decision is a balancing act between autofocus, portability, and excellent optical quality. It usually feels like you can only pick two. But with the introduction of Viltrox's second L-mount lens, the AF 28mm f/4.5 L, we might have just found a recipe that genuinely delivers on all three fronts by making the compromise elsewhere: a fixed, slower aperture. In this article, I will be putting this tiny lens to the test to see if it actually holds up its end of the bargain—translating a spec sheet into real-world performance. 

[Read More]

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to AdventureDriver (Day 9 - 'Outdoor Full-Length Portraits').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 10

River

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Day 11

Patterns & Shapes

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Day 12

People In Groups/Crowds

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Day 13

Interesting Angle Theme

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  Day 14

Event Photography

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Day 15

Plane

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

When you're enjoying the sand, sea, sun and sangria chances are, you won't be thinking about getting up during the 'golden hours' to shoot some portraits. Instead, you'll be trying to snap photos of your kids while they're dashing in and out of the pool and eating ice cream as the sun's beaming down. However, shooting at midday, when the light's directly above can cause heavy shadows to be cast on your subject's face. To solve this, it's tempting to switch positions so the sun sits behind you but this can cause your subject to squint which doesn't make a particularly pleasant holiday portrait. But don't fear, there are a few steps you can take to stop funny faces and deep shadows spoiling your shots.
 

1. Use Fill-In Flash

If you notice shadows appearing under your subject's nose and eyes try using your flash as a fill-in light. The extra burst of light can make the background appear slightly darker which helps make your subject 'pop' out of the frame. It also creates catchlights in the eyes and if the sun's behind your subject, the natural light can create an almost halo effect around them while the flash ensures the face is well lit.

2. Look Out For Red Eye

The problem with using flash is that it can cause red-eye, a problem which plagues many family holiday snaps. Many compacts have an anti-red-eye mode or if you're using off-camera flash try bouncing it off something rather than firing it at your subject directly. You can also correct the image in post-production when you get home, too.

3. Shoot In A Shaded Spot 

When we say shade we don't mean somewhere with no light, just a space that's evenly lit where no pockets of bright light can shine on your subject's face. Palm trees have big leaves but they often have gaps in the leaves that let light through so look for areas such as outdoor eating and drinking places or hotel entrances where taxis pull up instead as these will have a solid cover overhead. Just remember to double-check your white balance and adjust your exposure for the slightly darker conditions. If you're by the pool or on the beach a sun parasol will work just as well, just watch your backgrounds to make sure there's nothing distracting or any clutter in the way. If there are no brollies but your subject's wearing a floppy hat this will shade the face, and help create the shade you need. Positioning them so they're side on to the sun can help, too.
 

4. Add Extra Light 

Not everyone will pack reflectors but you'll find plenty of objects at your holiday location that can work as one. Any white surface - patio tables, walls, white t-shirts...etc. will reflect light onto your subject. You could even use aluminium foil if you can get your hands on some!

5. Capture Shots Of Your Kids

As children don't really sit still for very long switch your compact to Sports mode to give you the higher ISO and faster shutter speeds needed to help freeze their movement. If you're using a DSLR you can do this manually. Using the continuous shooting mode will also increase your chances of capturing a good portrait and you could always use several frames to create an action sequence.

 

 

6. Shoot Some Candids

Not all your portraits have to be posed shots. Try capturing your kids splashing in a pool or playing games on the beach.
 

7. Tighten Your Framing

For a more intimate shot fill the frame with your subject. This could be a shot that captures them waist up or for more impact, fill the frame with their face. This technique's particularly useful when you're in busy places where backgrounds can be distracting.
 

8. Get Creative

When you have your basic shots in the bag try shooting different angles, create silhouettes or add a touch of lens flare to your portraits. It's easier to create lens flare earlier in the day but it is possible in the afternoon, you just have to work from a lower angle. Make sure you're working in manual as if you trust the camera's meter, it'll turn your subject into a silhouette. You may need to manually focus too as your camera may try to focus on the brightest part of the image which won't be your subject. Don't overlook close-ups either as shots of hands playing with buckets and spades or feet paddling along the shore will look just as great in an album.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Spend enough time on Fstoppers and you'll notice a pattern. We talk about gear. I'm here to tell you one thing: gear isn't going to make you a better photographer. 

If you're relying on expensive gear, it could even be holding you back. If you think a lens is going to do the job for you, you'll stop doing the job you're supposed to be doing.

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Roughly 10% of the global population is left-handed. That is approximately 800 million people. In almost every industry that manufactures hand-operated tools, those 800 million people can buy a product designed for them. In the camera industry, they cannot. 

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I'm always curious to see what accomplished photographers use as their "rules of thumb" or "best practices." This video offers five tips to improve anyone's travel photography, including one I wish I'd heard before my recent trip. 

 

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Trying different genres of photography can be both challenging and rewarding, especially when you either feel like a change or when the seasons force your hand. But have you ever considered infrared? 

As a landscape photographer, I love being outdoors, and I also enjoy the early starts and late finishes. However, the summer in Ireland and the UK can be quite inhospitable, with 4:30 a.m. sunrises and 10 p.m. sunsets, and photographing during the long, harsh-light days is far from ideal. But that changes when it comes to infrared!

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During the summer, there are all sorts of agricultural events held all around the country and they are great occasions to capture some good images. There are the events themselves, the animals and the people to photograph. It is a great day out too. Usually, there are also plenty of stalls to browse around so there are chances to spend a few quid too.

 

1. Gear Choices

Your camera and a couple of lenses is a perfect outfit, ie pairing of a standard zoom and a telephoto zoom would be a very versatile combination. If you want to travel light, a camera and a superzoom are worth a thought. If you want to travel lighter still, take a zoom compact or one of the mirrorless style cameras.

 

2. Light Can Be Tricky

With luck, the sun will be shining but that can mean exposure and contrast problems. You might find that your camera slightly under and overexposes in contrasty light, so a few test shots to start with is a good idea. If, for example, you find that your camera consistently leans towards overexposure, set -0.3 EV, -0.7EV or even -1EV on your camera so get a more balanced exposure.

 

3. Try Capturing Images In RAW 

Shooting in RAW format is a good idea too, so if you do have exposure or contrast problems they can be controlled during the RAW workflow process. RAW conversion software allows you to adjust exposure, brightness and contrast very easily – and you can do it non-destructively.

 

4. Arrive In Plenty Of Time

For the events, you might have to find a spot early if you do not want to be shooting over people's heads. Often, there is plenty of room to find a decent viewpoint where you can get an unhindered view. Depending on the show, you might find displays of shire horses, carriage driving, dog agility and much more. The dog agility events are great fun to photograph, firstly because there is plenty of action but also there are brilliant candid moments of the owners to be photographed too. Just find yourself a good spot - close to the see-saw, weave poles or a fence - and just get ready for some frenetic action.
 

5. Messy Backgrounds Spoil Shots

Some events and participants are more photogenic than others, but one common problem you may experience is messy backgrounds and you may find avoiding them quite challenging. Stripey or white marquees, enclosures and fellow visitors can all spoil your shots so keep an eye on the background and use your feet and zoom lens to exclude as much clutter as possible. Using your telephoto lens at wide apertures for shallow depth-of-field is a technique to try to minimize bold subjects coming out too sharp.

 

6. Don't Forget Close-Ups And Detail

Concentrating on details within the scene is another photographic approach to consider. Close-ups of shire horses decked out on their finery can look excellent, just take care with exposure. Very dark horses can cause overexposure so appear lighter than they are, while light/white horses can cause underexposure and appear grey. Just use exposure compensation to ensure a good result.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Gunshot punctures, from the series Guilty Grounds, 2023 © Steffi Reimers, courtesy Contour Gallery

 

Nikon is delighted to announce that the Photo London x Nikon Emerging Photographer Award has been awarded to Steffi Reimers. The announcement was made during a special ceremony which took place in the Nikon Gallery, Olympia, during Photo London 2026.

Steffi Reimers is a Dutch photographer whose work explores themes of transience, history, and loss — narratives that often remain hidden from view. Through long-term projects, she is establishing herself as one of the new voices in contemporary Dutch photography. Reimers’ series asks the question: What memory does a landscape hold when it witnesses a crime? In Guilty Grounds, Steffi Reimers investigates the landscapes of Calabria, Southern Italy, revealing  them as silent witnesses to the unsettling crimes and pervasive influence of the ‘Ndrangheta’.

Reimers’ work engages not only with landscape but also with forensic traces, employing specialised lighting to reveal subtle marks, textures, and traces left behind, echoes of human violence that the eye might otherwise miss. Through this forensic approach, the photographs capture hidden details: scars on the earth, remnants of past activities, and the silent testimony of spaces that have witnessed crimes.

Launched in 2015 during Photo London’s first edition, The Emerging Photographer Award was set up to nurture and champion the career development of up-and-coming artists, helping to elevate the profiles of new, young lens-based storytellers. 

Photographers who enter are shortlisted by the Photo London 2026 Curatorial committee, comprised of some of the field’s most esteemed curators, critics and museum directors. This year’s final shortlist included: Sebastián González, Edward Rollitt, Steffi Reimers, Sal Taylor Kydd, Baud Postma, Devin Oktar Yal, Akshay Mahajan and Ci Demi.

The winner will be awarded a Nikon Z camera and a choice of two NIKKOR Z lenses, with specialist training from Nikon School to help take advantage of the capabilities that Nikon’s Z range has to offer.

Lucy Brice, Head of Marketing for Nikon Northern Europe says: “We are thrilled to announce Steffi Reimers as this year’s Photo London x Nikon Emerging Photographer Award winner. Her forensic approach to landscape photography reveals stories that might otherwise remain unseen, highlighting the impact imagery can have on our understanding of the world. Championing emerging talent is central to Nikon’s mission: by equipping and training the next generation of visual storytellers, we hope to amplify bold new voices and help them push the boundaries of craft and conscience. Congratulations to Steffi and all of this year’s shortlisted artists on their remarkable work.”

Sophie Parker, Fair Director of Photo London says: “A huge congratulation to Steffi Reimers on winning the 2026 Photo London x Nikon Emerging Photographer Award. It is incredibly important to us at Photo London to champion the work of every artist, from those who are established household names to artists just starting their careers. Previous winners of the award have gone on to make outstanding contributions to photography, and the future looks no different for Steffi, we are very excited to witness the trajectory of her career.”

Find out more about the winners here.

The deficit of trust in ICM stems from an underdeveloped language of results. While we can describe how to move the camera, we lack the criteria to evaluate what has emerged. This final part addresses the legitimacy of formal photographic practice in a culture dominated by "image-as-statement" and examines why beauty, without a named visual task, is so easily reduced to a gimmick. 

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What photographing Jennifer Hermoso taught me about editorial photography, trust, and why magazine covers still matter.

Magazine covers still matter.

That may sound almost old-fashioned in a time dominated by feeds, algorithms, and endlessly scrolling images that disappear seconds after being seen. Yet the magazine cover remains a strange exception. It still carries weight, it still feels curated rather than accidental, and perhaps most importantly, it still says something about the image selected to represent an entire story.

 

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AI software for photographers is getting so good that it is both incredible and a little horrifying. Every few months, a new app claims it can save us time, but most of them still only handle one piece of the job. Aftershoot’s newest update feels different. 

This is no longer just an AI culling app. Aftershoot can now cull, edit, retouch, export, create client galleries, and even help sell prints, all without needing to jump into Lightroom, Capture One, Photoshop, or a separate gallery service.

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Almost every camera you have ever used works the same way out of the box: press the shutter button halfway to focus, press it all the way to take the photo. One button, two jobs. It is so intuitive that most photographers never question it. You half-press, the camera focuses, you press the rest of the way, the shutter fires. Simple. 

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When the sun's out us Brits pack the car up with buckets, spades, the dog and family members and head to the beach. But as well as eating ice cream and playing the odd game of cricket or rounders take some time out to take a few beach photos. It doesn't even have to be a gloriously sunny day for photography either as waves crashing against the sea wall will look just as good as a family snap on the front.

  1. Gear Suggestions

You won't need a huge bag full of your fancy gear - you'll have enough to carry with all of the cool boxes and beach gear anyway! Your interchangeable lens camera and a zoom lens are fine or even a point-and-shoot camera will be enough if you're really lacking on space. Make space in your bag for a hotshoe flash for when the sun begins to set and if you're worried about saltwater or sand getting into your camera put it in waterproof housing or if you're using a point-and-shoot make it a waterproof one. Pack a blower to gently remove grains of sand that will land on your lens and have a microfibre cloth ready to wipe away sea spray.

 

2. Capturing Portraits

It's most likely that your number one subject at the beach will be your family but you don't always have to take shots of them grinning like Cheshire cats at you. Candids of them resting, playing in the sand, swimming or eating ice cream will work just as well, if not better than a posed, family portrait.

 

3. Lighting Tips 

Make sure you pay attention to where the sun is. It may work well for the sun to be behind you but this will only make your subject squint. Instead, move your subject into the shade of a brolly or have the sun behind them and use flash to fill in the shadows. Also, if you can, avoid taking photos at midday as the light's harsh and causes long shadows.

 

 

4. Check Your Backgrounds

Keep away from distracting backgrounds and make sure you take a good look around the viewfinder before you take your shot as the odd bit of rubbish, which can spoil a shot, is easy to miss when you're surrounded by so many interesting things. Make sure your subject fills the frame to stop attention going elsewhere and even though it may sound a little clichéd, silhouette shots of people do work well. Try using a telephoto lens to help you compose tightly and have your tripod to hand for those longer, evening exposures.

 

5. Don't Forget Your Basic Beach Shots 

As well as people shots try a sweeping shot of the sea and beach, stretching out for miles. Early morning or later in the evening after all the tourists have gone will give you an empty beach to work with. However, not everyone has kids who will get out of bed early so if the only shot you can take is full of brollies and windbreakers in the afternoon do it. A busy beach, particularly if there's not even standing room left, will always get a smile or you could try to clone them all out if you prefer a more natural shot.

 

6. Capturing Sunset Scenes 

Sunsets are, of course, a holiday snapshot favourite but as the sun's not setting until late on you may want to head off for some food then return to the beach later once your stomach's full.

If you do plan on photographing the sun as it sets DO NOT look at it through the camera lens and wait until it's very low in the sky and diffused by the haze caused by pollution or clouds. If the sun's your main focus, have it slightly off centre to make your final image more compositionally pleasing and don't forget that having foreground as well as background interest works well in sunset shots.

 

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