7 Things You Can Photograph On Your Way To/From Work
If you commute of a tube or train, there are some great opportunities for candid portrait photography. Candids on the carriages showing people's emotions, feelings and behaviour can make for interesting shots.
Focus on the face and try to capture the mood of the person, to make the photo feel more personal. If you're on the tube, there is a lot more open space and room for more varied shots. A line of people sat down, if the tube isn't too crowded, will work well to illustrate your journey to work.
If you don't want to photograph people how about the platform, signals, trains or old stations? More tips on photography in stations can be found here. Do remember there are certain rules you have to follow when it comes to photography in certain locations so do make sure you do your homework before taking your camera out of its bag.
2. Transport Photography
One thing you'll see a lot of on your commute is transport. Be it cars, bikes or trains, there will be plenty of opportunities to shoot transport. Keep your eyes open for anything unusual, like a rare or old car that you can photograph for that little something different to the norm. Use a quirky angle or take a macro shot if possible, to emphasise an interesting part of the vehicle.
3. Light Trails
These are relatively easy to capture as long as you have a tripod and if you can stop at the side of the road safely on your way home (obviously we don't want you to block roads are park where you shouldn't be!). Light trails work great when shot at the side of busy roads, however, if you can get high up and look down on the road, this will work well too, capturing a bird's eye view. Slow shutter speeds will be necessary to capture those all-important trails of light. Take a look at our article on light trail photography for more information.
4. Architectural Photography
If you work in the city, then there will be some great opportunities for architectural photography around you. Whether your subject is the busy city centre shops or the skyscrapers in the business district, some great effects can be achieved. If you're looking for architecture photography advice then take a look at this top list of tutorials.
5. On The Way To Work Documentary Style
If you're really keen on taking photos on your way to work, then why not document your experience in photos? Photograph interesting and memorable points from your commute to create a documentary-style record of your experiences. Repeat this monthly, and see how the world around you changes over the passing of time.
Often, you won't think to take your camera along with you to work. But as this article shows, there may be some great photo opportunities you are missing by not having it with you just in case.
6. Sunrise / Sunset
If you set off to work early, and return just as it is getting dark, depending on the season you'll be able to get some great shots of the sunrise and sunset. You need to be ready for those all-important minutes of the sun's rays coming up over the horizon.
7. Landscapes, Fields And CropsIn the summer, when all the crops are out, you can take some great sweeping field vistas of oilseed rape. You can easily photograph fields from the roadside on your way home if you commute through the open country. Some great abstract and macro shots can also be taken, as well as the traditional landscape. Take a look at this tutorial for more tips: How To Photograph Crop Fields Creatively.
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ePHOTOzine Daily Theme Winners Week 4 January 2026
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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to kenwil (Day 27 - Frost).
Daily Theme Runners-Up
If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A.
Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.
Day 25Amazing Views
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Day 26
Waterfall
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Day 28
Mountain Photography
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Day 29Trees
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Day 30
Pets
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Day 31
Action Shots
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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.
The Wonder of Fast Lenses
- Partner Content -
Fast aperture prime lenses have always been in fashion, sought after by photographers keen to enjoy the photo opportunities they bring. They are exciting optics, but they come with baggage. Depending on the format, they are often big and hefty and then there’s the price which can be considerable. Comparing like-for-like focal lengths, a lens that is just a fraction of an f/stop faster can mean a big enough price difference to make the hardened photographer weep.
Are fast primes worth the cash? Well, that’s only a question you can answer but if you like the idea of shallow depth-of-field, shooting in poor light and using low ISOs, then a fast lens or two in the kit bag is a compelling option. Of course, the other thing with primes is that they demand a more disciplined photographic approach and that’s a good thing too.
So, if a fast prime is on your wish list it makes sense to check out used gear specialist MPB first. With great service, competitive prices and expert-checked stock, MPB will help you make the most of your budget, and the camera kit is covered by a warranty too.
In this shopping trip, we have assumed a £3000 spend with the aim of equipping ourselves with a three fast prime lens outfit together with a high resolution, full-frame camera.
As for which brand, it was a choice between Nikon, Panasonic and Sony, with Canon sidelined being limited to its own AF lenses. Panasonic full-frame cameras use the L-Mount, which is well supported. The Nikon Z mount is gaining ground among independent lens makers, but we plumped for Sony. Its E-mount currently has the broadest choice of its own and third-party optics.
For the body, the Sony Alpha A7RIV appealed. Its AF might not be quite up to the level of its newer brothers but it’s still very capable and it has 61 megapixels under its bonnet to enjoy. High resolution is a big attraction, but this classy camera also has 10fps continuous shooting with AF tracking, weather-sealing, impressive video capability and plenty of customisation potential.
Typically Sony, the top plate controls are nicely placed and there’s plenty of customisation potential with camera set-up.
A quick search on MPB’s website showed A7RIV body options from £1239, which was in good condition but with a shutter count of over 150,000. Committing a further £200 of our budget to the body gave the option of an A7RIV in excellent condition and a shutter count of just over 14,000. It’s a good choice for £1439.
Onto lenses, choosing which three focal lengths to go for was a challenge because obviously, much depends on what you like to photograph. After a little internal deliberation, the idea of a wide-angle, a standard and a short telephoto seemed a great outfit capable of dealing with a wide breadth of subject matter.
Wide-angle lenses mean you can include plenty of environment to give pictures context. Image credit: Will Cheung.
For the wide, the 24mm focal length had the greatest all-round appeal, with the 20mm perhaps too wide for general shooting and the 28mm not quite wide enough. Anyway, at the time of our stock search, MPB didn’t have any stock of the 20mm or 28mm lenses from Sigma, but in this situation what you can do is create a stock alert - it can be cancelled at any time - by supplying an email address and as soon as the relevant item comes into stock, you’ll receive notification.
The 24mm focal length means foreground can be exploited in landscape pictures. To blur the water in this scene, the exposure used was 2 secs at f/11 and ISO 100. Image credit: Will Cheung.
MPB had a couple of Sigma 24mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art lenses in excellent condition at £354. It’s not quite as good as the current 24mm f/1.4 DG DN Art, but it’s not far behind and the attractive price meant we had more budget to complete our outfit.
Sigma Art lenses have a great reputation, and we stayed with Sigma for the 50mm lens. MPB had two 50mm f/1.4 DG DN Art in stock, both in ‘Like new’ condition at £674 and £699. We went for the cheaper option which took our spend so far to £2467, which leaves £533 for a short 85mm telephoto, a focal length that would suit portraits, street and scenes.
A fast 50mm lens is just the ticket for available light portraits and means high quality shots are possible without having to push ISO too far. This portrait was exposed at ISO 1600. Image credit: Will Cheung.
Having £533 to spend on a high spec short telephoto doesn’t give much room for manoeuvre. More recent 85mm lenses f/1.4 from Samyang and Viltrox were not in stock from MPB at the time, while f/1.4 alternatives from Sigma and Sony bust the budget. One 85mm f/1.4 option was the Sirui Aurora with a single sample priced at £394.
Zooms dominate the lens market but there’s a very healthy interest in primes, especially high spec models with fast apertures.
Another route was to go for an 85mm f/1.8 which brought quite a few options into play. The difference between f/1.8 and f/1.4 is a little over half-a-stop so significant but not huge. In practice, having to use a marginally higher ISO would have minimal negative impact on the Sony A7RIV, especially with the possibility of noise reduction in editing. Pictorially, an f/1.8 lens used wide open will still give a nicely blurred background and be very slightly less critical when it comes to focus.
The 85mm focal length is extremely versatile and having a fast maximum aperture is a big advantage too. This was shot at f/3.5 and the background is still nicely blurred. Image credit: Will Cheung.
MPB had an excellent condition Zeiss Batis 85mm f/1.8 at £514. Taking the route of a Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 at £289 for an excellent condition model would save money, and that could be used for protection filters for the three lenses. In the end, though, the thought of having a Zeiss lens in the bag makes the option more compelling.
So, with MPB’s help, we have a solid, general purpose three prime lens outfit comprising a 24mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8 together with a recent Sony 61 megapixel full-frame camera. That sounds good and a fabulous way to kick off 2026.
News from MPB
Keep right up to date with the latest camera techniques and buying advice with MPB. Two In the Field shooting guides were recently posted, using Canon EF lenses for Astrophotography and the Nikon Z8 for Landscape Photography. For hardware buying tips, check out MPB’s Selects guides. A recent story was Top Camera Gear for Wildlife Photography.
Click here to take you to the Photo and video kit guides web page.
MPB ExplainedYou need kit to take photographs and produce videos, and taking the used route is a cost-effective way of making the most of your budget and keeping up with the latest developments in imaging technology.
MPB is one of the biggest used retailers with bases in the UK, Germany and the USA.
Trading with MPB the process is fair, safe, painless and incredibly easy.
Whether you have kit to sell, want to make a purchase or part exchange, start by going to the MPB website which is intuitive and straightforward to use.
If you have kit to trade, just start typing the name in and a list of suggestions from MPB’s huge database will appear. If a name on that list matches your product click on it and add its condition; if not, continue typing in the whole name and condition.
It’s worth bearing in mind that MPB’s database covers much more than cameras and lenses so if you have, for example, a photo backpack, tripod or filters to sell these can be shown as you type in their name too.
With all your kit listed, add contact details and a quote will appear in your inbox soon afterwards, although manually entered items will take one working day.
If you are happy with the quote, accept it and follow the instructions to get the kit ready for courier collection on a day to suit you. For higher-value deals, an MPB account manager will also be in touch, so you have a personal point of contact if you have any queries.
Once received by MPB, you will get a notification and after checking by its product specialists you will receive a final quote. This can vary from the original quote if there is a missing item —like a battery not being supplied—or your assessed condition differs from the actual condition.
A quote can go down, but it can also increase if the kit’s condition is better than your assessment.
The whole process doesn’t take long and MPB are in touch by e-mail at every step so you’re never in the dark, and only when you are totally happy with the deal, pass on your payment details or pay the balance in the case of part-exchange. Either way, the money or your new kit will be with you soon after.
About MPB
- MPB is the largest global platform to buy, sell and trade used photo and video kit.
- MPB is the simple, safe and circular way to trade, upgrade and get paid.
- MPB is not a marketplace, instead buying directly from visual storytellers and evaluating all items before reselling MPB-approved kit.
- MPB's dynamic pricing engine provides the right price upfront for all items.
- Circularity is at the centre of MPB, promoting sustainability, diversity and inclusion in everything they do.
- MPB prioritises inclusive recruitment and supports employees with extensive training and development. They promote inclusive visual storytelling and an inclusive circular economy.
- MPB's business model is 100% circular. All packaging is 100% plastic-free. Their cloud-based platform uses 100% renewable electricity.
- MPB recirculates more than 570,000 products annually
- MPB provides first-class customer service. Customers can receive support through their Help Centre or by speaking directly with a kit expert.
- MPB's product specialists are trusted by thousands of visual storytellers in the UK.
- MPB is rated ‘Excellent’ on Trustpilot with over 37,000 reviews.
8 Top Tripod Tips For Photographers To Consider
1. Know What You'll Be Using It For
Before you make your purchase, make sure you think about where and what you'll be using your tripod for. For example, you don't want to set out walking through the countryside to find the tripod you've purchased is heavy or impractical.
A full-sized tripod extends to eye level, offer rigid support and tend to stay standing when used on windy days. Some models can be a little bulky and heavy but some companies have tripods which are made out of aluminium alloy making them light and easy to transport.
A compact tripod is similar to the full-size version except it but collapses to a very small size making it easier to carry around. There are also mini pods and tabletop tripods available. For times when a tripod would get in the way, such as when shooting in a crowd, the next best thing that gives you the same height but without the bulky splayed legs is a monopod.
If you're buying the tripod from a shop on the high street, make sure you extend the legs fully so you can check to see if they go to the height you need. Obviously, you can't do this online but most sites have a section where more details such as height, weight etc. of the product you're interested in can be found.
4. Have A Look At The Head
Most tripods do come with a head but tripod manufacturers do stock heads which you can buy separately. Most tripod heads will shoot in a vertical format as well as horizontal. If you're going to be shooting panoramas, move the head so you can see how freely/smoothly it'll pan. If you're buying online just have a read of the tripod's features for more information on how well the model pans and moves.
Many tripods now feature a quick release system which uses a plate that can be permanently fastened to your camera to lock it in position on your tripod. Check how easy it is to fasten and remove your camera to the tripod as you don't want to be fighting with your equipment when out in the field.
6. Legs And Locks
Make sure the legs are fully out before you put your camera on the tripod and always extend the thickest part of the legs first before moving on to adjust the smaller parts as this will give you a more rigid support. Before extending the height of the centre column do check the legs are at their maximum height because even though it's quick and easy to adjust the centre column, it's not a good habit to get into and you'll have a much more sturdy base to work with if you adjust the legs first.
As well as securing your tripod, locks should be quick to adjust and easy to use. Locks are either levers or twist grips. Twist grip locks are very secure while the lever lock option is faster to use but do make sure they are locked tight before taking your shot as you don't want the tripod to slip mid-exposure.
7. The Feet
Most tripods have rubber feet which absorb shock and offer good grip on most terrain. Some models feature spiked feet which are useful in situations where you need to sink your tripod into the ground such as at the beach or on a windy, wet hillside.
8. Clean Your Tripod
You want to make sure your gear is always ready to go and in a good condition so keep it clean and free of rust. This is even more important when you've spent the day at the coast as saltwater will corrode tripod legs and feet so always rinse them off in fresh water once home.
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A Mistake Almost Every New Photographer Makes
Here's a scenario most photographers will recognize: you come home from a portrait session or family event with 800 frames on your memory card, feeling like you absolutely nailed it. Three hours of culling later, you've exported maybe 15 images worth keeping. The math on that works out to under 2%, which isn't a success rate so much as it is a coin flip repeated until something lands.
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How to Start Lightroom Classic the Right Way in 2026
Adobe Lightroom Classic still scares people off in 2026, mostly because the first 10 minutes feel like a wall of buttons and empty panels. If you shoot a lot, you need a setup that keeps files predictable and edits reversible, not a messy pile of “final_final_2” exports.
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Portrait Photographer Tries Shooting Ultra-Wide With the Viltrox AF 14mm f/4.0 Air Z Lens
As a seasoned portrait photographer, stepping into the world of 14mm shooting was new territory, but it also served as a great opportunity to put the Viltrox AF 14mm f/4.0 Air Z through its paces. This ultra-wide prime autofocus lens encouraged me to see new places and familiar faces with fresh eyes, revealing perspectives and compositions I wouldn’t normally explore.
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If You Only Bring One Prime: 50mm or 85mm?
A 50mm and an 85mm can both make strong portraits, but they push you into different decisions the moment you pick one. This video puts the Viltrox AF 50mm f/1.4 Pro FE and Viltrox AF 85mm f/1.4 Pro FE in the same real location so you can see what changes when you use both.
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Rain, Fog, Snow: 12 Photos That Prove the Plan Is Optional
You can spend a whole year chasing the next trip and still miss what actually moved your work forward. This recap is built around that tension: the gear and locations change, but the real lesson is how you respond when the day refuses to match the plan.
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Why Instagram Doesn’t Reward Effort Anymore
Instagram is changing what “good” looks like, and it’s not the kind of change you can fix with a new lens or cleaner color. If you keep posting work that looks polished and still get silence, this video lays out a reason that’s hard to ignore.
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10 Top Frost Photography Tips For You To Read Today
1. The Kit For For Frost Photography
With a cool, clear night comes morning frost and it's a subject that works well for both close-up work and wider landscape shots. For your close-ups of the patterns frost creates, you'll need a macro lens or a 70-200mm zoom lens with extension rings will work just as well if you don't own a macro lens.
A tripod's handy for the times you'll be working in shaded areas and a lens hood attached to your lens will help prevent flare when shooting in the direction of the sun. Take a reflector out with you (a piece of card covered in foil will do fine) as they're useful for bouncing light into shaded spots and remember to slip a few spare batteries into your pockets if you're planning on venturing out for a while. It's also worth remembering to wrap up warm as you'll soon feel the cold when you're stood waiting for those long exposure times to complete.
2. Be An Early Riser & Head For Space
If the weatherman tells you it's going to be a cloudless night set the alarm clock to go off early, before the sun rises is a good time, as the lack of cloud cover means there's nothing to keep heat in so there's more chance of frost appearing. Head for open spaces (fields) rather than places that are sheltered (forests) as the canopy, or whatever is creating the shelter, can prevent frost from forming.
Like snow, frost, particularly when it's a thick covering, can fool your camera's meter to think the scene's much lighter than it actually is and it will underexpose the shot. If this happens, use exposure compensation and shoot half to one and a half stops over what your camera thinks is correct. You should always check your histogram to ensure the exposure's correct.
4. Lighting Tips
Side and direct light will help emphasise the way the frost glistens and sidelight, in particular, can help add depth to your scene. Try shooting directly into the sun so the frost glistens, you just need to use a lens hood to minimise the chances of flare spoiling your shot.
5. Look For Shade
Frost will last longer in shaded areas, but you'll need to use a reflector to bounce much-needed light into the shot. This will add the sparkle you expect to see when you look at frost and help remove the blue cast that's common with shade.
For shots that capture the patterns and textures frost creates, get in close and avoid using flash.
Adjusting your white balance to create a cooler colour temperature can further enhance the feeling of cold in your shot. You can also adjust the contrast of the image during post-production to give more definition to the patterns the frost has created.
Once home, don't take your camera out of your bag as soon as you get through the door as condensation can form on your camera/lens. Instead, leave it in your bag while it acclimatises.
If you don't want to venture too far have look for frost on your windows as the patterns it produces are great for macro work. Out in the garden, icy blades of grass are worth capturing early in the morning and look for fallen leaves that are covered with frost while you're out there too. Use a small aperture to make sure more of your image is sharp but if you're working with a leaf that's still on a tree, try using a wider aperture to throw the background out of focus, isolating the leaf in the process. While you're looking at branches look for frost covered berries as the reds contrast well with the white coloured frost.
Around ponds, reservoirs, rivers and lakes, look for frosted up reeds and branches above and around the water. They make interesting close-up studies but do take your wider lens with you too to capture a frosted landscape.
Finally, don't forget about capturing the popular frosted spiders web. Look for webs on or facing hedges, fences and other plain, dark backgrounds as this will help the web stand out. Use a large aperture too so the darker backgrounds also thrown out of focus. If you find using autofocus doesn't give you sharp enough images, switch to manual as if the focus isn't right, your shot will lose impact and can be spoilt.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum CompetitionThe Biggest Photography Stories of January 2026
January opens the year with CES and closes before the spring photography-focused trade shows like CP+ and NAB. It is often treated as a transitional month, but 2026 proved anything but routine. Between major gear launches, regulatory crackdowns on AI tools, a prestigious engineering award for the inventor behind every camera sensor on the planet, and the continued evolution of what photographers and audiences consider "authentic," the first month of 2026 delivered stories that will shape the industry for the rest of the year. Here are the ten developments that mattered most.
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Leica Released First Noctilux 35mm f/1.2 ASPH Lens
© Leica
Leica expanded its legendary Noctilux line with the launch of the NoctiluxâM 35 f/1.2 ASPH, the first in the series to feature a 35mm focal length. Built in Wetzlar for M-Cameras with high-resolution sensors, the lens delivered the signature subject isolation, smooth background rendering and film-like quality that photographers love, while offering the ability to focus as close as 50cm. Compact at just 5cm in length and weighing 416g, it combined speed, precision and portability, making it a versatile choice for portraits, reportage and street photography. The Noctilux-M 35 f/1.2 ASPH is available worldwide through Leica Stores, the Leica Online Store and authorised dealers, priced at £7,700 / €8,950 / $9,650.
From Leica
Since first being introduced in 1966, the name ‘Noctilux’ has represented the pinnacle of optical craftsmanship at Leica. The name is made up of the Latin words ‘noctu’ and ‘lux’, meaning ‘night’ and ‘light’, and refers to the exceptional speed of this lens series. With a maximum aperture of up to f/0.95, Noctilux lenses are considered to be the epitome of optical development, allowing creative possibilities beyond the ordinary and delivering images with an unrivalled visual aesthetic. With the new Noctilux-M 35 f/1.2 ASPH., Leica Camera AG is presenting the first Noctilux M-Lens in the company’s history to feature a 35 mm focal length.
Like all Noctilux lenses, the latest addition to the family impresses with its exceptional speed and superior imaging performance. The new, compact Noctilux-M 35 f/1.2 ASPH. produces clear, high-contrast images characterised by a distinctive look. The shallow depth of field at a wide aperture precisely separates subject and space, creating a velvety soft bokeh and lending images tangible depth as well as a cinematic atmosphere. Stopping down the aperture allows you to selectively increase the depth of field. A floating element within the complex optical construction ensures consistent performance across the entire focusing range, from the close focus distance to infinity.
© Leica
Up until now, the strength of Noctilux glass has been leveraged exclusively for 50 mm and 75 mm focal lengths, but the new Noctilux-M 35 f/1.2 ASPH. now makes this strength available for the versatile 35 mm focal length for the very first time. The perfect combination of a wide aperture and natural perspective makes it ideal for outstanding portrait, reportage, available-light and street photography. Subjects are clearly in focus thanks to precise separation, while retaining their context thanks to harmonious transitions to the background.
This new lens is the first Noctilux to feature an extended close focus distance down to 50 cm. When used with the new Leica M EV1 and its high-resolution integrated electronic viewfinder, focusing is particularly convenient across the entire focusing range. M-Cameras with a rangefinder can focus to a distance of 70 cm via the optical viewfinder. In the close-up range of 70–50 cm, focusing is carried out via Live View on the rear LCD panel or the Visoflex 2 clip-on viewfinder. The large focusing angle of the Noctilux-M 35 supports this, thereby enabling precise and sensitive work.
© Leica
The new Leica Noctilux-M 35 f/1.2 ASPH. has been optimised for M-Cameras with high-resolution image sensors, in addition to having been completely redesigned and handcrafted in Wetzlar. Decades of experience and state-of-the-art production technologies have gone into its development. This includes processing special glass materials and aspherical lens elements manufactured in Wetzlar using innovative Precision Glass Moulding (PGM) technology, which shapes lenses in a highly precise process, achieving exceptional quality standards. The optical design comprises ten lenses in five groups, including three aspherical lenses, and a floating element which ensures consistent imaging performance over the entire focusing range. The integrated lens hood reduces glare and reflections, ensuring high contrast and brilliant colour rendering, even with backlighting. Measuring just 5 cm in length, with a diameter of 6.5 cm, and weighing only 416 g, the new lens also impresses with its remarkably compact size.
The Leica Noctilux-M 35 f/1.2 ASPH. will be available worldwide as of the 29th of January 2026 from Leica Stores, the Leica Online Store and authorised dealers. The recommended retail price is £7,700.00 (incl. VAT.) / €8,950 (incl. VAT.) / $9,650.00.
A lens cap will also be available separately for an RRP of £70.00 / $95.00.
For more information, please visit the Leica website.
How To Photograph Awesome Show Shots: 4 Common Snow Photography Questions Answered
At this time of year, across the UK, snow can start appearing in our landscape. But, it's not the easiest of subjects to photograph, so we have answered some of the most frequently asked questions to help you out when snow's filling your landscape shots.
1. Why does the snow look blue/grey in my shot?
This is because your camera's metering system is fooled by the highly reflective tones of the white snow, which makes the image appear darker than it should be. Blue snow in pictures occurs where the snow is receiving no direct sunlight but is simply being lit by the sun reflecting off the blue sky (hence the cast).
All cameras have built-in metering systems that are designed to deliver a perfect picture assuming the contrast range is normal. They do this by scrambling the tones and then adjust so the scrambled colour brightness is mid-grey or average. This is fine when the subject has a wide tonal range with everything from black to white being present, but when the subject is predominantly white, such as snow, the camera underexposes so that the white becomes grey.
If you are using a compact camera it most likely has a snow scene mode and by switching to this, your once grey snow should appear white. For those using more advanced cameras, you can get around this by adjusting the exposure compensation setting to either plus 1 or two stops depending on the amount of snow in the picture. If your camera has the exposure lock feature, which is usually set by half-pressing the shutter button, point it at a mid-tone in your scene, lock the exposure then recompose your shot.
To fix a blue cast in-camera you'll need to switch your white balance settings to either shade or custom if you want to create a custom white balance from the snow. If working in sunny conditions the snow shouldn't appear blue but your shadows may but if you try and correct the image in-camera to remove the cast from the shadows you'll alter the colour of the snow so generally, it's best to leave the blue in the shadows so your snow is crisp and white. Plus, there's always the option to adjust the image in your image editing software once home.
2. Why does my snow shot look boring?
When snow covers most of your shot it can make the scene look a little bland, especially with a snow-filled sky as there won't be that much definition between the sky and the ground. Try stopping down a little to add more depth to your shot, or if this doesn't work, try adjusting your position to include a stone wall perhaps, or a lone tree, to add a little more to the shot. To darken light skies so your shots are a little more moody fit a graduated filter to the front of your lens.
3. Falling snow is ruining my shot. How can I minimise the appearance of the flakes?
The simple answer to this is to wait until it stops snowing. If this is not an option, make sure you're not using your flash, as this can cause the light to reflect off snowflakes nearer to the lens, causing the rest of your shot to look really dull and grey. A better way to capture snow falling is to put your camera on a tripod and use slower shutter speeds.
4. Why has my lens steamed up?
This is because you've moved from a warm house to the freezing cold outside, resulting in condensation. To avoid this, let your camera acclimatise in its case or bag for a while. Don't be tempted to wipe the lens with a cloth as this will cause smudges and marks which will spoil your image.
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Don't miss last day this Saturday....the 2026 London Photo Trade Show
The UK’s most exciting photography Convention is back — bigger, bolder and packed with more inspiration, education and industry powerhouses than ever before.
The 2026 London Photo Convention & Trade Show brings thousands of photographers together under one roof for four days of hands-on learning, live demos, exclusive deals, and world-class speakers. If you’re serious about your photography — this is where you need to be.
London Photo Trade Show: 15–17 January — Meet the Biggest Brands in Photography
Get ready for three electric days on the Trade Show floor, with leading camera and lighting brands showcasing their latest kit. Expect:
- Hands-on access to the newest cameras & lenses
- Live demonstrations from top pros
- Expert advice from manufacturers
- Show-only offers and exclusive discounts
- Retailers showcasing must-have accessories
Whether you shoot weddings, portraits, landscapes, content for social, or you’re just passionate about photography – the Trade Show has something for you.
Entry: £10 on the day (free if you pre registered before Tuesday)
Over 200 Hours of Training with Masterclasses & Superclasses
If you're hungry to learn, the Convention’s education programme is unmatched.
Masterclasses
Dive into a huge lineup of practical, inspiring and business-boosting sessions covering:
- Portraits
- Weddings
- Lighting
- Wildlife
- Macro
- Post-production
- Creative storytelling
- Branding
- Business growth for photographers
Top photographers, award-winning educators and industry leaders share the techniques and insights that elevate your photography fast.
Superclasses
Want hands-on training with the best in the business?
The Superclasses deliver small-group, practical workshops with some of the most respected names in the industry. Limited spaces — these sell out fast every single year.
Exclusive Offer
Save 10% with code epz10 on all class tickets!
The Photography Event You Simply Can’t Afford to MissIf you want to improve your skills, grow your business, network with other creatives and immerse yourself in the world of photography — this is your event.
Save the Dates
Full Convention: 14–17 January 2026
Photo Trade Show: 15–17 January 2026
Venue: Novotel London West, Hammersmith, W6 8DR
Join thousands of photographers for the ultimate start to 2026.
Masterclass Passes and Superclasses available now.
Fstoppers Photographer of the Month (January 2026): Christopher Doelman
The Fstoppers community is brimming with creative vision and talent. Every day, we comb through your work, looking for images to feature as the Photo of the Day or simply to admire your creativity and technical prowess. In 2026, we're featuring a new photographer every month, whose portfolio represents both stellar photographic achievement and a high level of involvement within the Fstoppers community.
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Photography Isn’t About the Camera — It’s About Learning How to See
“Wow, what an amazing photograph. What camera do you use?” “I really love your photographs; you must have a very expensive camera.” “Gee, thanks. I use a very old, outdated camera system that’s not very expensive at all.” Let's talk about gear and how it doesn't make you a better photographer.
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Starting Photography? Avoid These Three Mistakes That Waste Time and Money
Buying a first camera can feel like a test you have to pass before you even take a photo. This video is about avoiding the early traps that waste money, kill momentum, and make you second-guess every click.
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Stop Waiting for the “Right” Camera and Start Getting Better Results
Lightroom Classic can either become the place where your landscape work stays alive for years, or the thing you install after you have already lost track of it. The video lays out a few mistakes that feel small in the moment, then show up later as missing files, wasted trips, and slow progress.
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Eye Bag Removal in Photoshop That Still Looks Real at 100%
Dark under-eye bags can wreck an otherwise strong portrait, and heavy-handed fixes usually leave that telltale “plastic” skin. In this video, the focus is removing extreme eye bags in Photoshop while keeping texture believable at 100%.
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