Photography News

Skylum has released an update for its popular Luminar Neo editor that is incremental but will please owners. It follows a major fall update that brought many new features to the editor.  

What's in It?

This update improves the quality of results from our generative tools while also making Luminar Neo more stable and reliable overall. We’ve enhanced performance, fixed crashes, and refined key interactions to make your editing smoother and more consistent.

[Read More]

Image without HDR

 

When shooting HDR (High Dynamic Range) images there are two ways you can produce them. The first is in-camera with a built-in mode and the second is manually where the photographer produces various bracketed exposures and combines them in software once back in front of their computer. This isn't a technique just for advanced camera users either as you can also do HDR with images from compact digital cameras so long as you can control the exposure.

But before we look at 'how', we need to look at 'why' this feature is useful for photographers.
 

Why HDR?

A photographer could choose to shoot HDR images just to be a little more creative or because the scene they are trying to capture won't look at its best without it.

What we mean by this is the camera's sensor doesn't see how we do so if you meter for the brighter areas of the scene then chances are you'll lose some shadow detail. Do the opposite and highlights can end up looking 'blown out'. However, by working with a built-in HDR mode or shooting an HDR image manually you'll be capturing a series of exposures, known as a bracket, that will be combined into one image that has a better dynamic range (highlights and shadow detail). 
 

HDR In-Camera

Select cameras feature a built-in HDR mode which does the work for you. This captures a wide range of tones, from shadows to highlights to produce an image with a more balanced exposure. Take a look at your camera's manual to see if your model has this function built-in. Using an HDR mode can make a big difference to your images with more detail and colour becoming visible.

 

 

HDR Image

 

HDR Manually

When shooting, it’s vital that you keep the camera as still as possible between each of the shots, so as to produce identical images. This makes the blending process much easier. Mounting your camera on a tripod is the simplest way to ensure your shots stay lined-up. It'll also help if you use a cable or remote release so you don't have to touch the camera when starting an exposure. If you don't have one, use your camera's built-in self-timer.

Try to avoid adjusting your zoom between shots too as it'll be a pain trying to line them back up again and once you have your focus point, switch to manual focus (if not using it already) so the camera doesn't refocus after taking your first shot. You may want to lock the focus and switch to manual exposure to help ensure everything remains consistent throughout. It's also worth switching to aperture priority mode as this will ensure that the aperture doesn't change from shot-to-shot. 

Most cameras will have an auto-bracketing feature which makes the photographers job slightly easier as all they have to do is pick the increments the exposures are going to differ by and the camera sorts the rest. If you've checked your camera's manual and this feature isn't offered, you can use exposure compensation and bracket manually. 

Three images, at two stop intervals, should produce good results but this will depend on the contrast range in the scene you're capturing. Taking between 3 - 7 shots are common for this type of photography so do take the time to access the scene to see how many shots will produce the best result for you. Use zero as your base exposure then take your +2 and - 2 exposures and check the results. It's worth checking your camera's histogram when setting your base exposure to ensure the highlights and shadows aren't clipped. Take a look at our article on using histograms on your camera for more information on this. 

Once you have a set of images that cover the scene's full contrast range you can open the exposures on your computer in an HDR software program, various are available and bring them together in one image. Adjustments can be made to the image to produce a more accurate representation of the scene or you can go for a hyper-real shot where elements are over-cooked. Do take care with this, though, as not all scenes will work with the latter.
 

When To Use HDR

HDR won't work for every situation, you need to judge if it's needed. For example, If you have a landscape scene that's evenly exposed and well-lit you won't need to use HDR. However, if you have a scene where the camera can't handle all the different exposure levels present, HDR can help you capture a more balanced exposure. having said that, it's worth using a longer exposure before reaching for the HDR controls to see if it'll give you the sharpness and detail you're after.

You can always take a few test shots, paying particular attention to shadow areas, to see if any detail is lost before working on your HDR image.

As mentioned, do take care in post-production too as a strong HDR effect won't work for everything. Go for subtle then add more if you think the image needs it. 
 

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When we stretch the concept of the superzoom full frame lens from 28-200mm, we end up with this fine looking Tamron 25-200mm. This is a significant advantage for those who require a wider field of view, whilst maintaining a very useful 200mm at the telephoto end. This is the 2nd Generation version of this lens. It looks good, balances well with the 42MP Sony A7R III used in this review, and the focal length range seems ideal for general purpose shooting, wildlife, landscapes and travel. The wide f/2.8 aperture at the 25mm end also bodes well for use in low light. Let's see if the lens lives up to its potential, both in the studio tests as well as the great outdoors.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Handling and Features

Weighing in at a modest 575g and measuring just 121.5mm x 76.2mm, the moisture sealed body sits well on the Sony A7R III. If we start our tour of the lens at the front, we have a provided petal lens hood that bayonets smoothly into place, with a positive click stop that ensures it stays put with no need for a retaining catch. Within the bayonet fitting is a conventional 67mm filter thread. Most of the Tamron mirrorless lenses utilise the same filter thread, useful in avoiding having to stock several sizes of filter or lens cap. The hood will be most efficient at 25mm, whilst avoiding any vignetting, and less so as we move towards the telephoto settings, but this cannot be helped, and it also has the very useful function of protecting the front of the lens against knocks. Regardless of flare reduction, there is a strong case for always using a lens hood.

 

 

There is a wide, easy to grip, zoom ring that is clearly marked with accurate settings of 25mm, 35mm, 50mm, 70mm, 100mm, 135mm and 200mm. The ring is smooth in operation and does extend the lens barrel, so there is some mass of lens to move. It will never be electronic-smooth as a consequence, but it is definitely well damped, a cut above the norm. A lock switch is provided just behind the ring but the lens showed little sign of extending whilst being carried. There is also an AF lock button at the opposite side of the barrel at the same point.

The final ring is slimmer, is electronic and is used for manual focus. All the usual Sony focus options are supported and these are selected via the camera menu.

Focusing is down to 0.16m (6.3”) at 25mm, for a maximum magnification of 1:1.9. or around half life size. At 200mm this becomes 0.8m (31.5”), for a maximum magnification of 1:3.9, or around one quarter life size. Whilst most current macro lenses focus to 1:1, this zoom lens focuses as close as vintage half life size macros traditionally would be expected to do. This is very useful and confirms the universal applications that it is aimed at.

 

 

Optical construction is 18 elements in 14 groups, coated using Tamron's BBAR-G2, the second generation of their Broad Band Anti-reflection coatings. The front element also has a Fluorine treatment to help repel dirt, grease and moisture. A series of internal seals completes the moisture resistant construction. The diaphragm comprises 9 blades and results is a nicely rounded aperture. This raises our expectation of some ultra smooth bokeh.

Last but certainly not least is a USB-C socket, used for connection to a smartphone and also on the PC version for updating the lens software. Tamron Lens Utility Software enables various control functions. Usefully, the AF lock button can also be programmed via this route to toggle between AF and MF.

In use, the lens behaves impeccably. AF via the VXD (Voice coil eXtreme-torque Drive) voice coil motor is fast, accurate and virtually silent. With the Sony body even focusing between bars of a cage is possible much of the time, something that many cameras and lenses can be totally defeated by. For universal use when travelling, this lens is just so versatile and so easy to use that it should cover almost every conceivable eventuality.

Now let's see how well things hold up in the technical tests.

 

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Performance

Sharpness is looked at first, and the images in general look crisp, colourful and have plenty of contrast. They look good, and for most users that totally fulfils what they might expect.

At 25mm, central sharpness is very good at f/2.8 and f/4, rising to excellent from f/5.6 all the way through to f/16. The edges are consistently very good all through the range, from f/2.8 to f/16.

At 70mm, central sharpness is very good from f/4.5 right through to f/16, just dropping to good at f/22. The edges are good at f/4.5, very good from f/5.6 to f/16 and good at f/22.

At 140mm, central sharpness is fair from f/5.6 to f/11, good at f/16 and f/22 and fair at f/32. The edges are fair right through the range from f/5.6 to f/32.

As with many wide range zoom lenses, the longest focal lengths drop off in sharpness, but the Tamron, given a small amount of Photoshop sharpening still delivers great looking nature shots even at 200mm and f/5.6. This is always the dilemma – some lenses are able to deliver the goods in the field but are not really designed for the closer distances of lens testing charts.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is very impressively under control throughout the range and further correction in software is unlikely to be necessary.

Distortion measures just -0.81% barrel at 25mm, +0.10% pincushion at 70mm and +0.12% pincushion at 140mm. This renders the lens suitable for copying and for architectural shots and is again very impressive, particularly so in a zoom lens.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is the smoothness of gradation in the out of focus areas in an image. This is an aesthetic judgement rather than a measurement, but we know attractive bokeh when we see it. Here we find really very beautiful, smooth out of focus backgrounds, relaxed and natural with not a trace of raggedness. 

The flare performance is also excellent, clearly the design, internal baffling and coatings are all combining to do an excellent job of suppressing internal reflections. 

Vignetting is very well controlled.

 

Aperture 25mm 70mm 140mm f/2.8 -1.8     f/4 -1.4   f/4.5   -1.1   f/5.6 -1.3 -1.1 -0.7 f/8 -1.3 -1 -0.6 f/11 -1.2 -1 -0.6 f/16 -1.2 -1 -0.5 f/22   -0.9 -0.4 f/32     -0.3

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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Value For Money

The [AMUK]Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2|Tamron+25-200mm+f/2.8-5.6+Di+III+VXD+G2[/AMUK] lens is priced at £729.

There are no obvious alternatives that match the exact specification, but even looking at the lens in isolation, it looks terrific value for money.

 

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Verdict

The original 28-200mm lenses were a revelation in their day, offering incredible versatility and probably focusing closer than most alternatives as well. Quality and fine detail may have been less on the optical engineers' minds, as the technology of the day did have its limitations. Fast forward to today, though, and we can now see extended ranges such as this very fine 25-200mm from Tamron. Sharper, faster focusing, closer focusing and even more versatile at a very reasonable price point. What's not to like?

As with all lenses, it's important to understand what they are designed for, what they will do well and what they are not best suited for. This lens is a fantastic travel companion, with a wider than average field of view, focusing closer than most and with a fast, bright f/2.8 aperture. Tonal quality is excellent and images have punch and impact. At the longest focal lengths sharpness does fall off, as is almost always the case, but the lens still delivers sharp, punchy images well suited to wildlife, nature and portraiture.

In summary, a very fine lens that delivers very satisfying results and handles with consummate ease, all at a price that is impressively keen. Highly recommended.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Pros

• Good to excellent sharpness
• Minimal distortion
• Fast, accurate and virtually silent AF
• Excellent flare resistance
• CA well controlled
• Versatile extended zoom range
• Moisture and dust sealing
• Magnification 1:1.9 at 25mm
• Modest vignetting
• Beautiful bokeh
• Affordable pricing

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Cons

• Loses fine detail at longest focal lengths

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=5|R_performance=4.5|R_value=5|R_overall=4.5|A_level=4.5|A_text=Highly recommended – Punchy results from this easy to use and universally useful lens, all at a very keen price.|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

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Nikon shooters face a unique challenge that Canon and Sony users simply don't encounter: a lens ecosystem so sprawling and historically layered that even longtime Nikon photographers routinely get confused about what works with what. Here's everything you need to know. 

[Read More]

 

You erased some videos from an SD card by mistake, or maybe they just vanished for no reason. Perhaps you removed them on purpose, felt proud of your cleanup skills, but now you need them immediately. So, how to recover deleted videos from SD card easily and quickly? Fret not! There are 6 free ways for SD card video recovery on Windows and Mac in 2026, and we’ll be shedding light on each one.

 

Part 1: SD Card Video Recovery Tips You Should Know First

Before trying any solution, you can actually improve your chances of SD card video recovery by following these simple steps:

1. Stop using the SD card right away: Don’t record, save, or copy anything to it, as new data can overwrite deleted videos and make them impossible to recover.
2. Remove the SD card carefully: Take it out of the device gently and avoid bending or damaging it. Keep it in a safe place.
3. Do not format the SD card: Formatting can erase data and reduce the chance of recovery. Thus, avoid both quick and full formats.
4. Make a backup image of the card: Create a full copy of the SD card before recovery. This helps protect your data, especially if the card has errors.

 

Part 2: 6 Ways to Recover Deleted Videos from SD Card for Free

Here’s how to recover deleted SD card videos for free in 7 ways. But each method is for a different scenario. So pick accordingly:

 

Way 1: Employ a SD Card Recovery Tool

When you don’t possess a backup and your video files are permanently erased from the memory card, you can try a free SD card recovery tool for Windows and Mac. For instance, 4DDiG Data Recovery supports both platforms. 

It offers to recover deleted videos from SD card for free up to 2GB for Windows users. Other than videos, the tool supports 2000+ file formats and targets numerous data loss scenarios rather than just deletion. Here we shine a light on its benefits:

• The tool offers a high SD card video recovery rate and selective file retrieval, e.g., you can retrieve videos only.
• The software has a clear, intuitive, and easy-to-use interface.
• The tool offers a free preview for recovered videos.
• The program can first create an image of the card and then recover lost data from it.
• It can repair recovered photos or videos that cannot be opened.

Here’s how to recover deleted SD card videos with the aid of this tool:

Step 1: Attach your problematic memory card to your computer. Then, execute the SD video recovery tool on the same PC. Choose “SD Card” on the tool. Tap “Video” as the file type to only retrieve the videos from the card. Hit “Scan.”

 

 

Step 2: You can finish, or pause the scan once you find your desired videos. Preview the recovered videos.

 

 

Step 3: Adjust the filter tags or type keywords in the search field to find the exact videos.

Step 4: Select the videos you want back. Hit “Recover” to move to your computer or cloud drive.

 

 

Way 2: Look for Existing Backups

If you possess a backup, then it’s quite easy to recover lost videos from SD card. Simply check all the places you think the backup could be, such as:

1. Check your local backups first: Look on external hard drives, USB drives, or other storage where you may have saved the videos.
2. Check cloud storage: Review cloud services like iCloud, Google Drive or Dropbox for uploaded videos.
3. Check device-specific cloud services: If you use a GoPro or similar device, check its cloud account. With an active subscription, you can restore videos using the app (for GoPro, use the Quik app).

 

Way 3: Check the SD Card’s Trash Folder

When you erase videos from an SD card, they skip the Recycle Bin. This happens because Windows treats SD cards and USB drives as removable storage, not internal drives. However, the erased videos might be temporarily stored in a hidden “.Trashes” folder on your card. 

So, you can recover deleted videos from SD card for free by unhiding that folder. To do so:

 

On Windows:

Step 1: Attach your problematic memory card to your computer. Open “File Explorer.” Then, head to the “View” tab. Tick mark “Hidden items.”

 

 

Step 2: Afterward, open the SD card. Look, if the “.Trashes” folder is revealed now.

Step 3: If it does, open it. Next, look for your desired footage. Then, undelete video from SD card ".Trashes” folder.

 

On Mac:

Step 1: Attach your problematic memory card to your computer. Open “Finder.” Then, head to your SD card’s main folder. 

Step 2: Press “CMD + Shift + .” to reveal hidden files. This will unhide the “.Trashes” folder.

Step 3: Open the “Trash” folder inside “.Trashes. Search for your erased videos. Right-click. Next, select “Put Back” to restore them.

 

Way 4: Restore to a Previous Versions

The Previous Versions feature in Windows saves older copies of files so you can recover lost videos from SD card if they’re erased. While this feature is mainly used for files on internal drives, it can help you undelete video from SD card. But only if its previous version was once saved on your computer. Here’s how to recover deleted videos from SD card with Previous Versions:

Step 1: Attach your problematic memory card to your computer. Then, open “File Explorer.” 

Step 2: Open your memory card. Then, the folder where your erased videos once existed. Right-click. Next, choose “Properties.”

Step 3: Tap “Restore previous versions.” Afterward, pick a version that contains the erased videos. Hit “Restore.”

 

Way 5: Use Windows Backup

You can also recover deleted videos from SD card for free if you’ve activated the Windows Backup & Restore feature.  Here’s how to recover deleted SD card videos with Backup & Restore:

Step 1: Attach the problematic SD card to your computer. Then, type “con” in the Windows search. Execute “Control Panel.”

Step 2: Tap “System and Security.” Then, choose “Backup and Restore.” Click “Restore my files.” 

 

 

Step 3: Look for your erased videos in the backup. Next, choose a location to save it.

 

Way 6: Undelete Video from SD Card via Time Machine

If you’re a Mac user and have activated the Time Machine backup with the SD card videos also included in it, you can restore them easily. The Time Machine tool can make multiple versions of your files on an external drive, so you can restore them later on from a particular timeline. Here’s how to recover deleted videos from SD card with the Time Machine:

Step 1: Attach the external drive with the Time Machine backup to your computer. Then, open “Finder.” Pick your SD card.

Step 2: Click the “Time Machine” icon in the “Dock.” Next, tap “Browse Time Machine Backups.” 

 

 

Step 3: Browse through the timeline to find videos you want. Hit “Restore.”

 

Part 3: Why SD Card Video Recovery Is More Challenging?

Compared with other file types, it's more difficult to recover deleted videos from an SD card. Video files are usually much larger in size and are written to the memory card continuously across multiple sectors during recording. If even a small portion of this data is overwritten or damaged, the entire video file may become unplayable.

Another factor that makes SD card video recovery more difficult is the use of proprietary data formats by some camera manufacturers. These custom formats are not always recognized by standard recovery tools, which means the corresponding video files may not be detected during a scan.

 

Part 4: How to Keep Data Safe on an SD Card?

Now you should no longer need to worry about how to recover deleted videos from SD card for free. However, in the future, there might still be a risk of losing data from an external drive like an SD card due to any number of reasons. You can lower the chances of loss by taking concrete measures, such as the following:

1. Back up often: Save files to cloud storage or an external drive, especially when traveling.
2. Choose good-quality cards: Use trusted brands and carry extra cards as backups.
3. Use multiple memory cards: Switch cards during long shoots so you don’t lose everything if one fails.
4. Protect your data: Use encryption to keep files safe from malware or hackers.
5. Follow the 3-2-1 rule: Keep three copies on two different storage types, with one kept offline.

 

Conclusion

SD card video recovery is viable on Windows and Mac, but by using the correct method according to the reason for the loss. Stop using the card right away to prevent overwriting data. Then try free options like checking backups and hidden folders. But if no backup exists and the videos are fully erased, a tool like 4DDiG Data Recovery is a good choice.

The 24-70mm lens is one of the most used focal ranges in photography, yet it often feels flat and uninspiring. That frustration usually has less to do with the lens and more to do with how you’re standing when you use it. 

[Read More]

So you’re wondering if high megapixel counts actually matter or whether the hype is blown out of proportion. Well, here are three simple scenarios when it may be worth the extra investment. 

[Read More]

 

For today's tutorial, we thought we'd bring together all of the features and techniques ePHOTOzine has published on sports photography so next time you're at a match or trackside, you'll have the knowledge you'll need to shoot some top sports imagery.

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If you already have some sports shots you want to share or are heading to a game/race over the next few days, why not post your images in the Competition forum? You never know, you may have an award-winning shot that'll give you the opportunity to win our competition prize this week. 

 

18 Top Sports Photography Tutorials:

1. Top Tips On Shooting Water Sports Photography
2. How To Capture The Action At Running Events
3. Why Use A Support For Motorsport Photography?
4. Tips On Photographing Athletics
5. Photographing Polo
6. Sport Photography Tips
7. 10 Things To Do When Photographing Parkour
8. Cricket Photography Tips
9. How To Photograph Wakeboarders & Waterskiing
10. Photographing  Kitesurfing
11. Bowls Photography
12. Capturing Cricket
13. Football Photography
14. Photographing Snowboarding
15. Surf Photography Technique
16. Top Of The League Sports Photography
17. Throw The Winning Punch With Your Boxing Photography

 

You've read the article now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition

The Graflex K-4 is a 1950s military rangefinder built for 70mm film, and it is as intimidating as it sounds. 

[Read More]

You don’t need a shelf full of cameras to make strong images, yet it’s easy to end up with one. The real question isn’t which model is best, but why you own what you own. 

Coming to you from James Popsys, this reflective video walks through his personal lineup of cameras. Popsys is blunt about it. One camera is enough. Two, if paid work demands a backup. Beyond that, every extra body becomes cost, complication, or both. Switching between different systems can slow you down. Buttons move. Menus change. Moments pass while you check a setting you thought you memorized.

[Read More]

A 200mm f/2 lens is not subtle. It is big, bright, and built for reach, speed, and real subject separation when light drops or backgrounds get busy. 

[Read More]

Love it or loathe it, blurred water can look great in the right situation so it is always worth a try. For those who are new to the technique, here are 10 tips to get you started in turning even small cascades can look like raging torrents. 

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1. Time Of Day

Waterfalls are a favourite landscape subject and early morning or late afternoon on an overcast day is the perfect time to photograph them using this technique. Bright sun stops you using slow shutter speeds and the contrast can be horrendous. 

 

2. Camera Set-Up 

Switching to shutter-priority so you can control the length of the time the shutter is open for makes this technique easier so take a camera out you can do this with. DSLRs are an obvious choice but if you want to use a smaller bodied camera, take a look at a high-end compact or Micro Four Thirds System.

 

3. Use A Support

As you're using slow shutter speeds you need to use a tripod, self-timer or a remote cable release to ensure the camera stays completely still. Using the camera's mirror lock-up can also help with this, as it will avoid shutter shock. 

 

4. Find Your Filters

A polariser, as well as a neutral density filter, is handy for cutting down the amount of light reaching the camera sensor, thus allowing even slower shutter speeds. 

 

5. Slow Shutter Speed

The slower the speed you choose the more blur there will be. Try a speed of 1/8sec to 1/15sec but if this doesn't work, change the shutter speed and take the shot again.

 

6. Volume, Flow And Distance

There is no right or wrong speed for this as this changes depending on how much blur you want, the volume of water (large amounts need shorter shutter speeds), the speed of flow (slower flows need slower shutter speeds) and the distance between the camera and water (shorter the distance the faster the shutter speed needs to be).

 

7. Metering Tips

Take care when metering water as the large areas of light tones can fool the meter into underexposing, making the picture look dark. It's always worth bracketing, perhaps shooting at plus and minus one stop.

 

8. Take 2 Shots

Slow shutter speeds will add blur to anything that moves so if grass or plants surround the waterfall these could end up blurred too. To combat this, you can take two shots: one with a slow shutter speed to capture the waterfall and one with a faster shutter speed to capture the surroundings. You then combine both images later during post-production. 

 

9. How To Shoot

To create impact, fill the frame with the waterfall. Taking a low angle will also make the waterfall more dominating. Shooting straight on will allow you to capture water patterns. 

 

10. Away From Waterfalls

This same technique can be applied to wave imagery. You can create lava-style flows of water by choosing a slow shutter speed. Simply mount your camera on a tripod and choose an area where the water is crashing against rocks so the shape of it changes. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Image Credit: Canon

 

Canon expanded its professional optics range with two specialized L-series ultra-wide lenses designed to give photographers and filmmakers fresh creative perspectives. The RF 7-14mm F2.8-3.5L FISHEYE STM was announced as the world’s first fisheye zoom covering a 190-degree angle of view, featuring a lightweight build and an integrated drop-in filter system. The RF 14mm F1.4L VCM debuted as a high-speed hybrid prime, pairing a bright maximum aperture with specialized glass for astrophotography, landscapes, and video production. Both lenses carried weather-sealed construction and focus breathing suppression for reliable performance in professional environments. They go on sale on the 26th of February 2026.

 

From Canon:

Canon today expands its professional RF lens range with two new ultra-wide lenses that invite photographers and filmmakers to unleash their creativity and capture the world in dynamic new ways. With their fast apertures, compact sizes and outstanding optical quality, the RF 7-14mm F2.8-3.5L FISHEYE STM and RF 14mm F1.4L VCM are worlds apart from ordinary wide-angle lenses.

 

Introducing the world’s first 190° fisheye zoom lens1

 

The RF 7-14mm F2.8-3.5L FISHEYE STM is a unique ultra-wide RF zoom lens for dramatically different images and video. Paired with a full-frame EOS R System camera, the RF 7-14mm F2.8-3.5L FISHEYE STM delivers two distinctive looks: an ultra-wide 190° circular fisheye image at 7mm and a frame-filling 180° diagonal fisheye image at 14mm. On APS-C cameras, the maximum wide angle can be set to approximately 8.7mm for frame-filling 180° diagonal fisheye images2.

Building on the success of the pioneering EF 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye USM, the RF 7-14mm F2.8-3.5L FISHEYE STM has a wider, faster, lighter design and enhanced edge-to-edge image quality. An innovative drop-in filter system improves convenience by allowing real- time adjustment of optional circular polarising and variable ND filters, giving photographers and filmmakers precise control over lighting in any situation.

 

Image Credit: Canon

 

Designed for professionals who want their work to stand out, the RF 7-14mm F2.8-3.5L FISHEYE STM creates a striking look across a wide range of genres – from action sports and astrophotography to landscapes and expressive portraits. Focusing as close as 0.15m, this versatile zoom lens enables even greater exaggeration of creative distortion to set your work apart.

While offering photographers the freedom to explore a bold fisheye perspective in imaginative new ways, image quality remains tightly controlled through an advanced optical design. This includes two replica aspherical elements to suppress spherical aberrations, five UD elements to reduce chromatic aberrations, and ASC coatings to cut ghosting and flare.

Quiet leadscrew-type STM autofocus coupled with focus breathing suppression makes the RF 7-14mm F2.8-3.5L FISHEYE STM an accomplished lens for creative video as well as stills. Circular fisheye videos captured on a compatible camera can be converted to 2D 180° VR files via EOS VR Utility3, for immersive viewing using a VR headset. With its equidistant projection, the RF 7-14mm F2.8-3.5L FISHEYE STM keeps image detail consistent from the centre to the periphery. This ensures high resolution throughout, even when the image is stretched for 2D VR – so every view stays clear and captivating.

 

Image Credit: Canon

 

Key features of the RF 7-14MM F2.8-3.5L FISHEYE STM:

• World’s first fisheye zoom lens that covers a 190° angle of view1
• 7mm circular and 14mm diagonal fisheye for two different looks on a full-frame camera
• Circular fisheye with equidistant projection for easy conversion to 2D 180° VR with official Canon app3
• Aspherical and UD elements for high image quality across the frame
• Bright f/2.8-3.5 aperture for action and low-light shooting
• Drop-in filter support
• Durable L-series design with dust- and moisture-resistant construction4
• Lightweight at approx. 476g for ultra-portable convenience

 

RF 14mm F1.4L VCM: Extraordinary speed, exemplary sharpness

 

The RF 14mm F1.4L VCM sets a new benchmark for wide-angle excellence. Ultra-wide, ultra-fast and ultra-light, this latest addition to Canon’s hybrid prime lens lineup is designed to inspire photography and video production on a grand scale.

With its expansive 114° diagonal angle of view, the RF 14mm F1.4L VCM is a great choice for capturing sweeping landscapes as well as indoor spaces. An exceptionally bright f/1.4 aperture offers greater flexibility while shooting in low light or when using a shallow depth of field to help isolate your subject.

Despite its ultra-wide design and fast aperture, the RF 14mm F1.4L VCM remains lightweight, making it a highly practical lens for outdoor and travel photography, or working from a drone. Weighing around 578g, it’s built for shooting on the move, and the durable L-series construction ensures it is ready for demanding assignments.

 

Image Credit: Canon

 

Delivering remarkable image quality from the centre to the corners, even wide open at f/1.4, the RF 14mm F1.4L VCM achieves a level of performance rare for such a wide, fast design, thanks to the extensive use of specialised lens elements and coatings. Three glass-moulded (GMo) aspherical elements suppress sagittal coma flare for finely rendered point light sources such as stars, while Fluorite, BR and UD lenses reduce chromatic aberration. Ghosting and flare are minimised though the use of Canon’s sophisticated SWC and ASC coatings.

The superb edge-to-edge precision at f/1.4 is one reason the RF 14mm F1.4L VCM excels at astrophotography. The large maximum aperture lets you use faster shutter speeds to reduce star trails, while keeping image quality high and ISO levels manageable. Thanks to its ultra-wide angle of view, it is also an ideal lens for professional landscape and architecture photography or for shooting tight interiors. Additionally, the hybrid design of the RF 14mm F1.4L VCM, which incorporates smooth, precise AF tracking capability along with focus breathing suppression, 11-blade circular aperture and dedicated Iris Ring6, makes it an outstanding lens for photographers who also need to shoot video.

 

Image Credit: Canon

 

Key features of the RF 14MM F1.4L VCM:

• High-quality rectilinear ultra-wide hybrid prime lens
• Fast f/1.4 maximum aperture for shallow depth of field and greater freedom in low light
• Outstanding sharpness and image quality right across the frame, with aspheric, UD, BR and Fluorite elements
• Voice Coil Motor5 for smooth, quiet and precise autofocus, with focus breathing suppression
• Designed for professional photographers, with added hybrid features for advanced video performance
• 11-blade circular aperture for cinematic bokeh and 22-point starburst effects
• Smooth action Iris Ring6, Control Ring and Lens Control button for intuitive manual control
• L-series build quality with dust/moisture resistance4
• Compact and lightweight for a 14mm f/1.4 lens, at approx. 578g

 

1. First lens for interchangeable lens cameras compatible with 35mm full-frame sensors. As of February 4, 2026; research by Canon.

2. 180° diagonal fisheye photography is possible on EOS R System cameras with APS-C sensors when the ‘C’ mark on the zoom ring is aligned with the C index (at approximately 8.7mm). The location of the zoom limit/lock switch at wide-angle does not guarantee a diagonal fisheye image for APS-C size.

3. To record circular fisheye videos that can also be remapped into the equirectangular projection by Canon’s EOS VR Utility for 2D 180° VR viewing, you will need a compatible camera that supports Open Gate video recording.

4. Lenses with dust/moisture resistance are fitted with a rubber ring on the lens mount which may cause slight abrasion of the camera mount. This in no way effects either the lens or camera performance.

5. Important: The Voice Coil Motor in the lens emits a low-level magnetic field. While generally safe to use, we advise consulting your doctor if you have a pacemaker or any other medical device to address any concerns. When the lens is not connected to the camera or when the camera is off may cause internal noise from the lens’s components. This is normal and not a malfunction. Minor movements during transportation do not affect performance.

6. Various limitations apply to some cameras; we recommend installing the latest Firmware update on your camera for best performance. Even with latest Firmware update on EOS R, RP, Ra, R3, R5, R6, R6 Mark II, R7, R8, R10, R50, R100 and EOS R5C when shooting still photos, the aperture value cannot be set using the iris ring.

 

For more information, please visit the Canon UK website.

Editing is as crucial as capturing a great shot. Removing distractions, adjusting elements, or enhancing visuals can be time-consuming. AI tools now assist photographers in handling repetitive post-processing tasks efficiently, while keeping creative control intact.

Platforms like Piclumen provide intelligent features for real-world editing needs. These tools do not replace artistic judgment but help streamline tedious processes, letting photographers focus on refining their vision.

 

 

AI Replace: Targeted Editing for Photographers

 

The AI replace function allows selective content replacement in images. Users can mark areas to modify — such as unwanted objects or backgrounds — and describe the desired replacement. The system blends new content naturally into the image. This reduces manual editing time while maintaining creative flexibility. Instead of painstaking pixel-level adjustments, photographers can quickly implement changes while keeping control over the final image.

 

Using AI Replace in Your Workflow

 

A simple workflow makes AI replace accessible:

1. Mark the area: Use the brush to select parts to edit.
2. Describe the change: Input a brief description of the replacement.
3. Generate and review: Evaluate the AI-generated result and fine-tune if necessary.

This process is ideal for photographers looking to save time on repetitive tasks, especially in client work or batch editing.

 

 

Solving Common Editing Pain Points

 

Unwanted subjects or distracting background elements are common in photography. AI replace can quickly remove these issues — for example, stray pedestrians in street photography or clutter in product shots — by replacing them with cleaner backgrounds or natural textures. This helps photographers focus on composition, lighting, and storytelling rather than repetitive pixel work.

 

Keeping Creative Control

 

AI replace is an assistive tool, not a replacement for the photographer’s skill. Creative decisions about composition, lighting, and visual narrative remain fully under the user’s control. By treating AI outputs as drafts or variations, photographers retain full creative freedom. 

 

Conclusion

 

AI replace offers a practical way to speed up post-processing while preserving creative control. Tools like Piclumen support photographers in reducing repetitive editing tasks, allowing more time to focus on the artistic aspects of photography, without ever replacing the human judgment at the core of image creation.

 

 

Top Gear and Preparation Tips for Starting Out in Travel Photography

 

 

Embarking on a journey into travel photography is more than just taking pictures in exotic locations—it's about capturing stories, understanding cultures, and being equipped with the right tools and mindset. When exploring vibrant markets, remote landscapes, and bustling cities, having the best gear for travel photography and being well-prepared can significantly impact your results.

In this guide, we'll cover essential travel photography gear, practical tips for beginners, and tricks to maintain your equipment while on the move.

 

Explore DepositPhotos for licensed travel photos for your creative projects.

 

How to prepare for a travel photography job as a beginner creator

 

Landing your first travel photography job can be both exciting and overwhelming. The key lies in preparation, consistency, and adaptability.

 

Research your destination

Before heading to popular travel photography hotspots, learn about the local culture, climate, and accessibility. Understand the best times for natural lighting and golden hour shots, and what locations might be sensitive to photography.

Consider these aspects:

• Seasonal light patterns' impact on landscapes;
• Local festivals showcasing vibrant traditions;
• Off-the-beaten-path locations for authentic storytelling;
• Cultural taboos to respect while photographing people;
• Optimal times for capturing iconic landmarks;
• Local markets and their unique visual elements.

 

Build a shot list

A shot list will guide your creative process and show professionalism, especially if you're handling commissioned travel photography jobs. Consider these categories to enhance your visual storytelling:

• Dawn patrol. Early morning cityscapes;
• Local artisans. Traditional craftsmanship;
• Hidden gems. Lesser-known locations;
• Night scenes. Vibrant after-dark moments;
• Architectural contrasts. Old meets new;
• Cultural rituals. Unique local traditions;
• Street food. Culinary experiences.

A well-planned list serves as your visual roadmap, ensuring you capture key moments while allocating time for spontaneity.

 

Check your legal and logistical needs

Ensure you have travel documents, photography permits, and insurance coverage for health and travel photography gear. Investigate permit requirements for protected areas and landmarks. Secure necessary visas, especially for commercial work. Familiarize yourself with local photography laws and cultural sensitivities. Consider these crucial aspects:

• Research drone regulations and no-fly zones;
• Obtain model releases for portrait subjects;
• Respect copyright laws for artwork and performances;
• Review customs regulations for equipment transport;
• Understand privacy laws in public spaces;
• Check restrictions on tripod use in crowded areas;
• Be aware of photography bans in religious sites.

 

 

The best gear for travel photography

 

Choosing the best gear for travel photography means balancing performance, durability, and portability. Here's a breakdown of what you should consider packing as a beginner:

 

Best cameras for travel photography

Compact mirrorless cameras are now a top choice among professional and beginner photographers. They offer compact size without sacrificing professional features. Here are a few standout options:

1. Fujifilm X-T5. Lightweight with excellent image quality and film simulation features.
2. Sony Alpha a7 IV. A full-frame powerhouse with advanced autofocus and video capabilities.
3. Canon EOS R8. A strong entry-level full-frame option for high-resolution travel shots.

These are among the best cameras for travel photography because they offer superior image quality while remaining compact enough for daily travel.

 

Versatile lenses

For beginners, a versatile 24–70 mm f/2.8 zoom covers everything from wide-angle vistas to portraits, while a fast 35 mm f/1.8 prime excels in low-light and street scenes. As your skills (and itinerary) expand, build a travel-ready lens kit that balances scope and portability: a 16–35 mm wide-angle for landscapes and architecture, the trusty 24–70 mm for everyday flexibility, and a 70–200 mm telephoto zoom to bring distant wildlife or compressed cityscapes closer.

To round out your creative arsenal, you might also pack:

• Ultra-wide fisheye—dramatic, curving distortions for unique perspectives;
• Macro lens—crisp, close-up detail of flora, food, or textures;
• Tilt-shift lens—perspective correction and miniature effects in urban settings;
• Fast prime—wide aperture for atmospheric, low-light street shots;
• All-in-one zoom (18–300 mm)—space-saving versatility when you can carry only one lens.

 

Accessories to enhance workflow

Enhance your travel photography workflow with these essential accessories:

• Versatile camera bag. Protect gear and organize efficiently;
• Lightweight tripod. Ensure stability for sharp images;
• High-capacity memory cards. Capture more without interruption;
• Spare batteries. Extend shooting time in remote locations;
• Portable hard drive. Backup photos securely on-the-go;
• Remote shutter release. Minimize camera shake for crisp shots;
• Polarizing filter. Reduce glare and enhance colors;
• Cleaning kit. Maintain equipment for optimal performance.

 

 

How to take care of your travel photography gear during trips

 

Protecting your investment in travel photography gear is essential, especially when facing varied climates and rugged terrains.

 

Weatherproof your equipment

Protect your gear from the elements with quality rain covers and dust-proof cases. While weather-sealed cameras like the Canon 5D Mark IV offer protection, caution is still necessary. Consider these tips:

• Use silica gel packets to combat humidity;
• Wrap gear in microfiber cloths for added protection;
• Acclimate equipment gradually in temperature extremes;
• Keep spare dry bags for sudden weather changes;
• Invest in waterproof camera straps for added security.

 

Routine cleaning

Maintaining your travel photography gear requires a consistent cleaning routine. Implement these techniques for optimal performance:

• Use microfiber cloths to gently remove smudges from lenses;
• Dislodge dust from sensors with a rocket blower;
• Clean camera bodies carefully, avoiding buttons;
• Apply lens cleaner sparingly for stubborn marks;
• Inspect and clean lens contacts for reliable connections.

 

Smart packing and transport

Invest in a padded camera bag to shield your gear from impacts. Always carry essential equipment as hand luggage when flying. Avoid exposing gear to extreme temperatures and use hotel safes for secure storage during exploration.

 

Conclusion

Starting a career or hobby in travel photography demands more than a love for travel and visuals—it requires the right gear, thoughtful preparation, and ongoing care. From choosing the best cameras for travel photography to discovering new travel photography hotspots, every step of your journey adds to your visual storytelling toolbox. As you land more travel photography jobs, this article's foundational habits will continue to support your success.

 

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