Photography News

 

Music festivals are not only fun, they're great places to capture images of bands performing. Plus, you'll also be able to capture quite a few cracking candids of fellow festival-goers enjoying the music, rides, food and probably an alcoholic beverage or two! For those heading to a music festival this year, here are a few photography tips for you to have a think about before you start setting your tent up. 

 

1. Keep your things safe

You need to know where your camera and bag is at all times. If you don't want to carry your kit and other valuables all of the time, invest in a locker. Many festivals are now offering secure lock-up facilities, for a small fee of course. Even if you do have to pay they are handy things to have, particularly if it rains as you can stick all of your electrical equipment in them. 

 

2. Be ready

When you're squashed in a crowd of people who are trying to get closer to the stage trying to pull a camera out of your bag is really hard work so it's best to have it in your hands ready before the crush begins. Don't be tempted to put it on a camera strap either as even though it will stop it falling onto the floor if it gets tugged while on your neck you can injure yourself. If you want to make sure you're not going to lose it put a smaller strap on it and place it over your wrist.

Alternatively, use your smartphone to capture photos as they're just as good as many compact cameras nowadays and you'll probably have it on you anyway!
 

3. Have a plan

They'll be plenty of information online about who's playing what stage but it's worth buying a programme when you arrive and keeping it with you so you know who's playing when. That way you can circle the bands you'd like to photograph/watch or use is to make your own timetable, showing where and when each band will play. If you don't want to spend money you'll find the line-up posted around the camping areas of the festival which you can snap a photo of or make notes from.

 

 

 

4. Get to the stage well before the band is on

If you're heading for the main stage there's usually quite a big gap between the crowd and the stage so arriving early to get a spot at the front is advised. If you don't unless you have a very long lens, the bands will look a little bit small and you'll have trouble filling the frame when you're shooting individual shots of the band members (as demonstrated in the shot below). You can get closer at the smaller stages but if it's a particularly popular group you're heading to shoot, you'll still need to be there within plenty of time otherwise you'll have rows and rows of heads in front of you. If you intend to stay by the main stage, which is usually out in the open, make sure you take plenty of water with you, as dehydration can be a big problem on hot summer days. It's also a real pain to get back to the front once you leave!

Try to avoid standing where speakers will clip the side of your shots and avoid framing up with cables, monitors and other stage clutter in the background if you can. Sometimes all you have to do is wait for the artist you're photographing to move to a different spot on the stage to get the clutter-free shot you're after.

 

5. Compose your shots

As you won't be able to move very far, the ways you can compose your shots will be limited and you'll just have to rely on the band getting into poses/positions you think are worth photographing. Capturing the guitarist in a mid-air jump or the lead singer leaning over for the crowd are shots everyone's seen a million times before but that's not to say you shouldn't capture them. If you struggle to get the shots you want, head for a band you don't want to photograph but don't mind listening and just watch them on stage. You'll soon be able to pre-empt what they're going to do next so when you do lift your camera up, you'll be ready to take the shot.

 

6. When the sun goes down

As the light fades, getting decent shots of the stage becomes more of a challenge. You really need to be in the few front rows as the sun sets if you want to capture shots where you can see who's on stage. As most compacts try and use flash when it gets dark make sure you turn it off. If you don't turn your flash off you'll probably end up with a shot that shows a few rows of heads and nothing behind them. Your camera will have also picked the settings it thinks are suitable for when you're using flash so a short shutter speeds, small aperture and a low ISO will have further reduced the amount of light in your shot. You can increase the ISO manually but just keep an eye out for noise as some compact cameras struggle with this when you start to use higher ISO settings. If there's a particularly interesting light show happening on stage and you're some distance away try switching to Firework mode to capture it.

 

 

7. Try and standstill

It can be hard to do when you're in a crowd but by doing so you'll reduce the amount of shake in your shot, particularly when the sun's set and your camera's having to use longer shutter speeds when any movement can be easily picked up in your final photograph. If you have a barrier in front of you use it for support or lean on a wall that's behind you. If you're in the middle of the crowd just hug your arms as close to your side as possible and try and keep your hands still.
 

8. Remember the crowd

Try turning around and photographing the mass of people around you. It's not as easy if you're stood low down but get up higher on a slight hill/banking and it's easy to capture a sweeping shot of the festivities. Some compacts have panorama modes which can be handy when you're trying to take wider shots such as this. Do snap a few candids as you walk around as you're guaranteed to find plenty of interesting characters in the three or four days you're there. Plus, there will be plenty of stalls and tents for you to capture shots of as well. 

 

 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to pink (Day 21- 'The Sea').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 17

Abstract

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Day 18

Running

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Day 19

Animals & Wildlife

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Day 20

Landmarks

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  Day 22

Leaves & Tree

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Day 23

Swans

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

Holiday season is approaching again and the time of year when you'll no doubt be dusting off your old camera or considering buying a new one. This article will help you take better pictures, avoid disasters and maybe make you think a bit more before you press the shutter.

 

1. Individuality

You only have to go to any popular tourist spot to see camera-clutching individuals out in their droves, each clambering to the same old spots to take the same old pictures. I wouldn't be surprised if the ground is eroded in certain places as certain spots have provided support for thousands upon thousands of people pointing their cameras to take pictures. Now here's an idea, how about some tripod manufacturer concreting one of their best selling models into place so you can get exactly the same picture! What I'm eluding to is it's better if you can get off the beaten track to take your pictures. If you're in a coach party and the coach stops, walk up the road and see if there's a better viewpoint. Coaches have to stop in lay-bys and that's not always the ideal vantage point. Often shrubs or trees block the view, and there's likely to be rubbish strewn all over the place. But the main thing is you won't have the same picture that everyone else has. You can usually buy those at the postcard shop.

 

 

2. Look For Ideas

Talking of which, postcards, taken by the professionals, often give you ideas and point out not only the obvious beauty spots but also the less ventured locations. When you stop in an unfamiliar village or town, it's always worth checking out the local postcards to see what previous photographers have discovered, and then plan your trip to include that location and take your own versions of the postcard shots. Use their ideas as inspiration for your own pictures, and use these in other locations. Of course with the internet available almost anywhere you can also do your research online, either before you go or at your hotel before you head off for a day of exploration. 

 

 

3. Wonky Won't Work

There are several simple tips to help you take better pictures with your camera. The main thing is to check the viewfinder just before you take the shot. Look for obvious problems such as trees or lampposts growing out of heads, horizons at an angle and fingers straying over the lens. Also, avoid covering the flash when taking pictures indoors. Using a tripod will help ensure the horizons straight and you can also buy Hot Shoe Bubble mounts that can be placed onto the hot shoe of a camera to help ensure your camera is level.

 

 

4. In The Sun

If you're lucky you'll have good weather, lucky for your tan, but maybe not for your picture taking. The sun when high in the sky casts hard shadows and bright highlights that create too much contrast making detail in shadow areas become black and highlights washed out. Here's where your built-in flash will help. No, it's not just for parties and indoor frolics, the flash can be used to put detail back into shadow areas and also adds a sparkle to eyes (known as a catch-light). Use it when you can see a harsh dark shadow under the nose and chin. 

 

  5. On The Beach

If you're a sun worshiper and head for the beach watch your camera. Cameras don't like salt water or sand and if either element comes into contact it's a recipe for disaster. You can buy a special waterproof pack that houses the camera and lets you take pictures with it in place, or you could buy a waterproof camera or a single-use splashproof camera if you prefer. Of course, keeping your camera and lenses in a camera bag when not in use will reduce the amount of sand and sea-spray that gets into contact with it. An everyday backpack will have more than enough room for camera gear plus other accessories you may need for a day at the beach. 

 

 

6. Photos Of People

When you go abroad you're likely to see interesting characters and will be eager to snap these locals in their natural environment. While some will be happy to pose, you must remember you are invading their privacy so don't go prodding your lens here, there and everywhere without understanding the culture of the locals. You can often go on tourist trips to villages that have been set up to show what life is like in the real villages and, as you've paid to go, there's no harm taking pictures. If you want to tread further afield do some research before you go.

 

 

 

7. Insured?

Lastly, if you have an expensive camera make sure your insurance covers it. You don't want to damage your camera or have it stolen before you find you're not covered for damage or theft.

 

 

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The Sony a7R VI arrived this month with 66.8 megapixels, a fully stacked sensor, 30 frames per second, and 8.5 stops of stabilization. The spec sheet is extraordinary. But the feature that will matter most to photographers who use their cameras after dark is one that does not appear in any resolution or burst-speed comparison: the rear buttons glow. 

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The first mistake people make when photographing Día de Muertos is thinking they already understand it.

The makeup seems easy to understand.The candles seem symbolic enough.The flowers, the smoke, the parades, the altars. Everything appears visually generous from the very beginning, almost too generous. Mexico City during those days feels like the kind of place photographers dream about: chaos, beauty, theater, death, celebration, all colliding in the same streets at the same time.

And this is exactly why it can deceive you.

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I remember so vividly the excitement of when I first started taking pictures. It was all new, new, new. "Oh my God, what's this? Did you just see that?" No matter what it was I photographed, I felt a rush of pure exhilaration. Even now, 24 years later, I am thrilled to say that I still feel that rush. 

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Choosing between the OM System 100-400mm and the OM System 50-200mm f/2.8 is one of the more genuinely difficult calls in the Micro Four Thirds wildlife kit. Both cover similar ground in terms of size and weight, but they get to their results in completely different ways, and picking the wrong one for how you actually shoot will cost you. 

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The Fujifilm X-M5 sits at around $800 and punches well above that price with 6.2K open gate video, a 26-megapixel APS-C sensor, a mechanical shutter, and a hot shoe — specs that most competitors at this price point simply don't offer. After a full year of real-world use, McClure has a clear-eyed take on where this camera succeeds, where it falls short, and who it actually makes sense for. 

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Knowing your gear is one thing. Knowing what to do when the shot isn't working is another. This breakdown of seven real wildlife situations covers the kind of fieldcraft that doesn't show up in spec sheets or camera manuals. 

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Getting a sharp subject is one thing. Getting that subject to visually separate from the background and command attention is something else entirely. These editing techniques can make the difference between an image that looks decent and one that stops people mid-scroll. 

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Panoramas and landscapes go together like gin and tonic and make a potent combination. There are several panoramic heads available and we will be discussing how they are used in due course. To start with, though, this is a technique that you can shoot handheld.

  Working Without A Panoramic Head

This technique works fine for subjects some way from the camera position. If you have subjects quite close to the subject you do need a proper panoramic head that can be adjusted to get the optical centre of the lens directly above the tripod's centre axis.

 

1. Gear Suggestions

Your normal DSLR and a standard zoom are fine (30-50mm on an APS-C sized sensor and 50-75mm on a full-frame camera.)

 

2. Work Manually

Go manual control for this technique. Set your DSLR's white balance to manual using a suitable preset, set manual focus and set manual exposure. Shooting manually does make life easier and streamlines workflow rather than having to tweak each image before stitching.

 

3. Check Your Exposure 

White-balance and focusing are pretty straightforward, but manual exposure needs a little thinking about. Ideally, you want an exposure that ensures good highlight detail and shadows will look after themselves. Take a meter reading and shoot three images, one at the centre of the panorama and then one at each extreme edge. If the exposure works for each area you have got it right.

 

4. Don't Adjust The Focus Once Set

It is also important that focus is not adjusted during the panorama so take care not to touch the focus barrel once you have focused.

 

5. Take Your Shots

Try shooting in an upright format and start from the left, allowing a one-third frame approximate overlap between each frame. Capturing between six to eight frames should be fine.

Shooting horizontal format is fine too but it is good to have some area spare to crop into should it be necessary. Shooting upright gives less of a letter-box effect, too.

 

6. Stitching

There are various stitching software packages available. Try Panorama Factory - it is quick and very effective or you can always use Photoshop.

 

 

    Working With A Panoramic Head

For panoramas where there are elements much closer to the camera, you need a purpose-built tripod head.

 

1. Gear Suggestions

There are various models of panoramic head available at a variety of prices and enable single row panoramas and some multi-row. The key thing is that the instructions of the head are followed to find the no-parallax point of the lens, usually called the nodal point.

 

2. The Set-Up

Find your scene, set up the tripod and camera so that it is level. Set manual white-balance, manual exposure and manual focus. Meter to get tones in the important part of the scene – and bracket exposures if it is contrasty.

 

3. Take Your Shots

Shoot from left to right once you have set up and the head has click stops to ensure that you get the correct amount of overlap. Do a ‘dry run’ before shooting for real.

 

4. Stitching

Back home, get the images corrected and cloned and put them through your usual panorama software. 

 

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    1. What Gear Do I Need?

Pack your telephoto zoom when you're heading out as you'll be able to get close to the swans without having to get your feet wet. It's also handy for photographing them as they fly off or for capturing the splash as they come into land.

For particularly bright days you'll find a polariser filter useful as it will reduce the glare and reflections you get from the water.

If you're going out with the family when photography is not necessarily your main focus, use your smartphone to capture photos of kids feeding the ducks and shots of the swans closer to the bank.
 

2. Where Will I Find Them? 

If you're in a particularly rural place where not many people venture and a swan sees you it probably means you won't be seeing it for much longer! But if you're at your local park where people often feed them you'll find it much easier to snap a swan's portrait. Nature reserves do have public hides you can sit and wait in but as we've said, if you're in a place where the swans are used to seeing people you can leave your camouflage gear at home. Early mornings and later afternoon until the sun goes down are the best times for catching swans which is good news if you're hoping to catch them in flight as there will be less contrast between the swans and sky which will give you a more balanced exposure.

 

3. Can I Capture A Shot Of Them In-Flight? 

Swans are big enough to focus on and slow enough to keep up with as they pass you by so they're perfect subjects for photographers who haven't photographed birds in flight before. A good point to remember is swans turn into the wind when they're about to take off so keep an eye out for that. If the sun's shining in the same direction as the wind's blowing position yourself with the sun behind you for a front-lit shot of a swan taking off. If you're parallel to the swan make sure you press the shutter when the wings are fully up or down so you can see the head.

If you spot a flock or single swan in the sky don't frame up with them in the centre as you'll probably miss the shot or if you do manage to capture them, they'll look a little squashed. Instead, move so they're to the edge of the frame giving them space to, essentially, fly into. By doing this you'll also be able to use the centre focusing point. Make sure you're on continuous focus and get the focus locked on the bird straight away, even if this does mean missing some of the action.

If you want to freeze motion try a shutter speed of around 1/500sec but if you prefer to blur the motion of the wings try 1/30sec. Keep an eye on your exposure as a bright sky and a white bird may mean your camera underexposes the shot. Check regularly to see if you need to overexpose by one or two stops.
 

4. What Other Shots Can I Try?

If capturing a swan in-flight seems a little daunting there are plenty of other shots to try closer to the ground. Try shooting the reflections of the swans on the pond or focus on just the head, blurring the background so you can really pick out the detail and colours of the beak and face. Get the family involved and shoot some portraits of them feeding or watching the swans or how about a shot of the swans out of the water on the bank? If you do this, be aware of your surroundings as you don't want parked cars and other objects spoiling your shot.

 

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Almost nothing is more fundamental and important than shutter speed. Here's everything you need to know about it.  

 

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When it comes to focal length choice, my photography goes in cycles. For a few years now I've been shooting 28mm and 35mm, but recently decided it was time to move back to the 50mm focal range.

 

My favorite everyday carry/travel camera—which I grab for local strolls around town, or take on long backpacking trips—is my trusty Nikon Z50.

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Photography has always occupied a curious position. It can be art, journalism, testimony, or obsession. But before any of that, it is memory made visible. And nowhere does that become more apparent than in the family photograph. 

A while ago, I asked my parents if I could borrow a selection of old prints from the family archive. My intention was straightforward enough: to edit them, scan them, and preserve them digitally. What began as a simple archival exercise quickly became something much more meaningful.

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Feeling creatively stuck is one of the most common problems in photography, and the advice to "pick a genre and stick to it" might be making it worse. Rick Bebbington spent years labeling himself a landscape photographer, and by his own account, that label kept him stalled for a long time. 

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Shooting portraits in black and white is a genuine creative decision, not just a stylistic default. The difference between a black and white image that works and one that falls flat comes down to whether the light, expression, and mood were already there before you pulled the color out. 

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The Canon EOS R6 V lands at $2,500 with active cooling, IBIS, open gate 7K, and internal Raw — a spec sheet that would have cost you significantly more just a couple of years ago. The obvious question is how it actually performs against cameras like the Sony FX3 at $4,300 and the Canon EOS C50 at $3,900, and whether the gap in price reflects a meaningful gap in real-world image quality. 

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Choosing between the Viltrox 50mm f/2 Air and the newer Viltrox 55mm f/1.8 Evo isn't just a matter of budget. At $199 versus $370, these two lenses represent genuinely different philosophies, and if you already own the Air, you might be wondering whether the Evo is worth the jump. 

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Taking a walk to the end of a pier and back is a must when visiting the coast. However, instead of walking up and over the beach why not step down onto the sand and under the pier for a spot of pier photography with a difference?

You can't get underneath all piers so please use your common sense and don't put yourself in danger for a photograph. If you do plan on spending time under the pier, make sure you keep your eye on the tide as if you're distracted it can easily take you by surprise.

1. What Gear Do I Need?  

Most lenses, from wide-angle to telephotos can be used for pier photography, but if you want to get in close to the rust patterns and seaweed you'll need a macro lens. If you don't have one, try a close-up lens or even an extension tube. Pack your tripod if you want to play with long exposures. 
 

2. Capture Lines And Patterns

The underside of a pier is a hidden world of patterns and strong compositional lines waiting to be photographed. Position yourself right and you'll be able to follow the vanishing point into the sea and photograph the solid shapes formed by the supports that frame it. If you're on the beach late afternoon and the pier you're under is made of wooden boards you'll see rays of sunlight shining through, which will add even more interest to your frame.

If you don't want to get your feet wet walk further up the beach and focus your macro lens on the rusting nuts and bolts that hold the pier together.

 

 

3. Study The Tide Times

Check the tide times and head out at low tide when you'll find seaweed and barnacles decorating the supports with bands of colour and textures or take an exposure from the sky to turn the pier into a silhouette and leave all the detail out.
 

4. Play Around With Longer Exposures

As mentioned above, take your tripod along and you can put your camera on a long-ish exposure to leave the still strong pier surrounded by smooth, fluid waves. This can take a while to get right as waves can grow too big or shrink to something not worth photographing so you may have to experiment with exposure times and just keep taking photographs until you get it right. Have a lens cloth to hand as sea spray will land on your lens, leaving dots of water in the process and make sure your tripod is sturdy as all it takes is one, strong wave to knock your gear over into the sea.
 

5. Choose To Shoot In RAW

If you can, shoot in RAW as you'll be surprised how much detail you'll be able to bring out in the highlights and shadows in post-production without ruining the look of the rest of the image.
 

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