Photography News

Getty Images has killed its $3.7 billion merger with Shutterstock, refusing a condition set by UK regulators that would have forced Shutterstock to sell off its entire editorial photography business. The deal had already cleared US antitrust review with no strings attached, which makes the UK objection the single reason two of the biggest names in stock photography will stay separate.

 

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Having a blurry image isn't always a bad thing. In fact, when it's used in the right place, it can actually make your photos better. Here are a few examples of when blur can be used and a few tips on how to produce the shots.
 

1. Water / Waterfalls

 

1. Use shutter-priority so you can control how long the shutter is open.
2. The slower the speed you choose the more blur there will be.
3. The speed you need will change depending on how much blur you want, how much water there is and the distance between the camera and your subject.
4. Start between 1/8sec to 1/15sec and just adjust until you get the blur you're looking for.
5. If you struggle to get the shutter speed low enough try fitting an ND filter to your lens. 
6. Always use a tripod to prevent shake spoiling your shot and if possible use a remote / cable release. 
7. Meter carefully as large areas of light tones can fool the camera into underexposing your shot.
8. Slow shutter speeds will blur anything that moves so if you don't want what's surrounding your subject to be blurred, try taking two shots: one with the slower shutter speed then the other with a speed that will freeze movement. You can then combine these in editing software such as Photoshop.
9. Try blurring the movement of waterfalls, rapids, waves breaking along the coastline, a fast-flowing river and water flowing from a tap

  2. Action Photography

 

1. For people, animals or vehicles which are moving, adding a touch of blur to the image can give the impression of speed, emphasising motion and creating a sense of drama in the shot.
2. If you use too higher shutter speed you'll just freeze the motion, too slow and there can be too much blur and the background and your subject will seem like they're merging together. So it's worth experimenting with a variety of shutter speeds to get it right.
3. Try panning with the subject as they move. Start panning, release the shutter button and then continue the pan even after the camera's captured the image. If you get it right the subject will appear sharp as it hasn't moved position in the viewfinder, but the background will be blurred making the subject look as though it's hurtling along.
4. Try to get enough blur so the background isn't distracting and the movement of the wheels on the vehicle you're photographing are blurred to create the sense of motion in the shot. This will also help the eye focus on what it's meant to.
5. Try using slow sync flash which is where you use a slow shutter speed and flash together to freeze your subject but blur the background. The low shutter speed continues to record the ambient conditions and further subject movement. It's used mostly by sports photographers recording cycling events or motorsports but can also be creative in any environment that has a moving subject in the foreground. Try using it next time you're photographing your child playing on a swing.

 

3. Light Trails 

 

1. Do not try and drive the car and work the camera at the same time. Get yourself a driver or you drive and get a friend to operate the camera.
2. Make sure the windscreen is very, very clean otherwise smears will spoil the final shot.
3. Make sure the tripod is secure before you set off so the camera doesn't get broken from it falling over during the drive.
4. Try positioning the camera so you can only see the view through the windscreen but don't worry if you have the roof or dashboard in shot as you can always crop it out. The lights and shape of the dashboard can also add an extra element of interest to the image, giving the trails something to contrast against.
5. Focus on the distance - you want the lights sharp ideally.
6. Use a small aperture to give you front to back sharpness. It'll also mean you can use longer shutter speeds.
7. 10-30 second exposure will capture the light trails. If you want longer shutter speeds, use the B setting.
8. Use a remote trigger, cable release or self-timer to fire the shutter.
9. Twilight is a good time and you need a location with a variety of light sources.
10. Towns are good locations for this as they'll be streaks of light on various levels and of several shades on offer. Motorways are also good but here you'll get more continuous long light streaks.

 

 

4. Abstract Shots 

 

1. Sometimes you don't need anything to be sharp and in focus to make an interesting image.
2. If you're using lines try to find a location that gives you a shot that has lines that vary in size and colour. Bolder lines will have more impact than small, faint ones and do remember they will still guide the eye through the shot and tell the viewer where they should be looking.
3. Shapes are obviously softened so make sure you're photographing something that's interesting and bold, otherwise your image won't have any impact.
4. Strong, bold colours work well because you're losing texture and detail you see in sharp shots. Make sure your tones don't clash and check to see if any shades are overpowering certain areas of the frame.

 

5. Drag Landscapes 

 

1. Overcast days are perfect for this technique.
2. Find a scene that has strong lines – fences with flowers in front of them and trees work well.
3. Basically, you need to press the shutter button and as the exposure processes, dragging your camera up, down left or right as it does.
4. Don't stop panning until you're past your subject as you won't get the blurry lines you're looking for.

 

6. Zoom Blur

 

1. You have to get the zoom right – too much and you won't be able to make out your subject, too little and it will just look like a normal shot.
2. Use a small aperture to get the slower shutter speed that's needed. Use a low ISO too. This is particularly important when your subject is backlit.
3. Fit a neutral density filter or a polarising filter if you can't get a slow enough shutter speed.
4. Make sure you meter from your main focus point.
5. You need to set the zoom to either the short or long end of the focal length range, open the shutter, wait for a while then in one, smooth, quite quick movement, zoom out. By pausing at the start your subject will have a little definition before the blur kicks in.
6. Stained glass windows are good subjects for this technique but try it in a forest with the light that flows through the trees too.

 

7. Remove Distracting Backgrounds 

 

1. If you're working somewhere that has a busy background use a larger aperture to throw it out of focus. This blur will hide whatever was distracting the eye, allowing all focus to fall on your subject.
2. If you're using a compact camera try switching to the appropriate mode (portrait for people, macro for close up work) so the camera knows you want to throw the background out of focus.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

You stand in front of something stunning, a valley flooded with evening light, a city skyline at dusk, and you press the shutter sure you have captured it. Then you look at the file and the magic is gone. The colors are flatter, the sky is blown out or the ground is a muddy mess, the mountain that loomed over you looks like a small bump, and the whole thing feels ordinary. The instinct is to blame the camera, or your skill, or to start shopping for a better lens. Usually none of those is the real culprit.

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A bull bison charged an older man walking with his grandson at a Yellowstone campground on Friday evening and threw him roughly eight feet into the air. The man landed on his side with serious injuries, and the animal stood over him afterward instead of running off. 

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I've been looking for new ways to exhibit my photo and video work, ways that aren't tied to white walls or interior spaces. That search led me toward projectors, and I found one that fits. The appeal of something untethered is obvious in the fact that you can take your work almost anywhere. I initially expected I'd need a separate power station, but instead I found a quality projector with a built-in battery, making the whole setup far simpler than I'd imagined. 

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"How you make a picture is much easier to articulate than why you make a picture." I read this statement in a comment under one of my articles here on Fstoppers, and it inspired me to talk about this in more depth.

 

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A flat, cold panorama of a cloud over farmland becomes a dark, dramatic storm scene using nothing but contrast adjustments. The difference comes down to knowing which sliders control contrast globally and which ones do it locally, then applying each in the right place. 

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Custom film built to one photographer's exact wishes, coated by hand sounds like a dream, and this version is wildly unusual. Film that behaves this way rejects almost every rule commercial stock follows, and it opens up a way of working most shooters never consider. 

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I've always wondered what goes through someone's mind when they decide to become a hater. Being a hater is a kind of job: you have to create fake accounts, which guarantee anonymity, and then, from those accounts, launch attacks against the object of your hatred.

 

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Whether it's a line of lampposts on a dark street, light glowing from the windows on the front of your house, a night sky bursting with stars or a panoramic cityscape showing the twinkling lights from the homes, shops and streets that fill the city, there's something for every photographer, no matter where you live, to photograph at night.

 

1. Kit Choices

Your most important piece of kit if you're heading out at night is a tripod as it's impossible to work hand-held when you're dealing with very long exposures. If you have one, pack your remote release to help minimise shake or make use of the camera's self-timer if you don't. Your standard lens will do just nicely but take a telephoto along to get you close to lights on top of buildings and illuminated signs. Pack a torch, wear suitable clothing and take a watch along for timing when using the B setting. Do have fun experimenting with Bulb as you'll be able to produce some interesting and creative results. 

 

2. How Dark?

It doesn't have to be totally dark for you to have a try at night photography. Late dusk, when there's still a little light left in the sky, will give you scenes with less contrast as the light that's still in the sky will illuminate areas not lit by artificial lights. If you do want to head out when most people are tucked up in bed take someone else with you for safety and they can keep you entertained while your long exposure ticks along. If you're not very patient you could, of course, use a higher ISO, however, sticking to ISO100 or 200 will give you better quality images.

 

 

3. Long Exposures & Timing

How long your exposure is will depend on what you're photographing. If the light, such as street lamps, is your focus you'll have a much shorter exposure than if you were photographing an illuminated building when you're photographing light that's reflected. If you have both types of light in one scene go for the longer exposure as if you don't, the only detail will be the lights, you won't see a building. This does mean you'll get flare from the street lights, but this isn't necessarily bad.

Overexposed street lamps, particularly if it's a damp night, can look really good.

 

4. Metering & White Balance

You may get a few metering problems as areas of darkness which are occasionally illuminated by bright lights can confuse your camera. If you find your scenes too dark or the lights have washed the scene out, use the compensation setting to adjust the exposure and try again. Don't meter from a dark area either as this will just cause lights to be overexposed.

Keep an eye on your white balance as different lights can have different colour casts. Shop windows will be fluorescent while street lamps and buildings lit by floodlights are often tungsten which gives a yellowish cast to images. But you may find the colour cast adds to your image anyway.

 

Other techniques to try at night include:

• Light trails of moving traffic
• Light painting
• Star trails 
• Fairgrounds at night – use a slow shutter speed to create pictures a wash of vivid colours.
• Cityscapes taken from an elevated point to give you a sweeping shot of twinkling lights.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Artemis II in Eclipse. Credit: NASA

 

NASA has shared a shot from the Artemis II mission called "Artemis II in Eclipse", captured by the crew using a Nikon Z9 during the lunar flyby back in April. The image shows the Sun eclipsed by the Moon from inside the spacecraft, with Saturn and Mars visible off to the side. What makes this even more interesting is that researchers at Tokyo City University have since used the photo, shot handheld on a commercially available camera, to study the structure of the inner zodiacal cloud, proving that consumer camera gear can contribute to real astronomical research.

  From Nikon:

NASA has released a spectacular image from its Artemis II mission, where Nikon's flagship camera, the Nikon Z9, was used by the crew to capture one-of-a-kind interstellar imagery from the historic lunar flyby. Titled "Artemis II in Eclipse", the picture offers a unique perspective of the Sun eclipsed by the Moon from inside the spacecraft.

This fantastic shot was captured in April using the Nikon Z9 mirrorless camera, paired with a 35mm f/2D lens at an aperture of f/2, an exposure time of 2 s, and ISO 1600.

With this rare vantage point, the Artemis II crew witnessed the Sun hiding behind the Moon for almost an hour at a close distance (4,067 miles at closest approach) where the Moon appeared much larger than the sun. The astronauts also captured Saturn and Mars, visible to the right of the Moon within the majestic shot.

Hiroyuki Ikegami, Nikon Senior Executive Vice President, General Manager of Imaging Business Group says: "Seeing the images from the Artemis II mission return to Earth is a profound honour for all of us at Nikon. This latest research from Tokyo City University acts as a powerful reminder of what imaging can make possible when science, exploration, unrelenting effort and human curiosity come together."

"For more than five decades, from Apollo 15 to the Artemis program, Nikon has been privileged to support NASA with cameras and lenses designed for exceptional clarity and reliability in the most demanding environments. The Nikon Z9's high resolution, expansive dynamic range and outstanding low-light performance are helping crews capture incredible details."

Additionally, researchers at Tokyo City University analysed solar corona images taken by the astronauts with the Nikon Z9 during the Artemis II mission. They found that the Z9's high resolution, wide dynamic range and low-noise performance made it possible to capture even the faintest light around the sun with stunning clarity – contributing to this remarkable scientific discovery in space exploration.

 

Figure 3. Left: a normalized green channel image produced by masking the Moon and bright stars from the original art002e009301 image to extract the structure of the diffuse background emission. Right: a diffuse ZL map for the same field calculated using ZodiSURF (R. O'Brien et al. 2026) with the same normalization. Intensity contours of the diffuse light at levels of [0.01, 0.03, 0.1, 0.3] are overlaid for both images.

 

Their study demonstrates that opportunistic observations from crewed lunar missions can provide valuable insights into the structure of the inner zodiacal cloud.

Kohji Tsumura, Associate Professor, Tokyo City University (currently Associate Professor, Frontier Research Institute for Interdisciplinary Sciences, Tohoku University) says: "I was amazed to learn that this remarkable image was captured by an astronaut using a commercially available Nikon Z9 with an exposure time of just two seconds—a true testament to how far digital camera technology has come. Although I was initially sceptical about analysing a JPEG image, the quality proved comparable to data used in professional astronomical observations. Astronomy is unique in that amateurs and professionals alike can make meaningful contributions, and as high-performance cameras become more accessible, I believe images taken by amateur photographers will increasingly lead to unexpected scientific discoveries. I am delighted that this research offers one such example."

Ko Arimatsu, Co-author of the study;  Senior lecturer, National Astronomical Observatory of Japan (NAOJ) says: "In this study, we investigated the properties of the F-corona—interplanetary dust scattering sunlight near the Moon—using images taken by an astronaut with a commercially available Nikon Z9. The findings demonstrate that scientifically valuable data can be extracted from consumer camera images when properly calibrated and analysed. This suggests that high-performance consumer cameras could serve not only for documentation during future space exploration, but also as tools for unexpected scientific discoveries."

For more information, please visit the Nikon website.

GoPro's founder and CEO is lending his own company $20 million to keep it running while its board looks for a buyer. The action camera maker warned last month that it might not survive the next 12 months without new money or a sale.

 

 

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Meta has removed the feature in its new Muse Image tool that let anyone generate AI images from your public Instagram photos, just three days after switching it on. The company said the feature "missed the mark" and is no longer available. 

 

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Signs aren't the most difficult subject in the world to photograph but there are a few things you can do to ensure your shots are perfect.

 

1. Why Photograph Signs?

Signs can be interesting and/or funny in their own right and they can give the person who's viewing your work more information about the areas you visited too. Older parts of towns will have signs that look a little more battered while newer signs which look less worn and more modern will suggest you spent quite a lot of time in newer areas of town. They also suggest if you've ventured beyond the tourist areas as signs tend to just have the language of the country you're visiting once you're over the edges of the tourist trap. These, in particular, are the signs that can be funny too due to the different language or images used to illustrate what the signs telling people. You may also find people have added their own diagrams to the signs which can often bring to odd grin or two.

 

2. Give Your Collection Direction

As well as having them as photos that sit among your collection you can use signs to organise your galleries, albums and portfolios. They make great headings that will help the viewer understand they're moving into a new collection of images.

 

 

 

3. To Zoom Or Not?

If the sign is particularly interesting or tells a story on its own without its surroundings you'll want to fill the frame with it, making use of your zoom if you can't physically get close to the sign. If you're using the sign within its surroundings you'll probably want to use a small aperture to ensure front to back sharpness. Double-check you can still see what's on the sign too as, after all, it's still our focus. Where possible, try shooting straight on to the sign too so it's easier to read.

  4. Reflections

Modern signs are more likely to have a reflective surface and when you're working with bright sunshine or flash, glare can bounce back off the sign spoiling the shot. As a result, it's usually best to turn the flash off or if you're using a flashgun leave it in the bag. If sunlight is your problem then try a different position to see if the glare goes away or return later or come back early the next day when the sun's moved positions.

  5. Shop Signs

If you come across an interesting shop sign chances are it'll be high up and shooting from the ground, looking up won't look right in the final shot so if you can, find something to stand on to give you more height or stand further back if that's not possible.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Landscape photography looks like it should be easy. You find a beautiful place, point the camera at it, and press the shutter. Then you get home, look at the files, and the magic that was right in front of you has somehow drained out of the picture. Almost always, the cause is not your gear or the location. It is a handful of specific, fixable habits that nearly every beginner falls into. Here are 11 of the most common, each with a fix you can apply the very next time you are out. 

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L-R: Ian McKellen, Love, London, 2023; Chappell Roan, Fashion: Chanel Haute Couture, New York City, 2025; Isaac Julien and Queen Conch Shell, London, 2023; Miriam Margolyes, Clapham Cream Teas, London, 2023 / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

 

The National Portrait Gallery has announced full details of Tim Walker's Fairyland: Love and Legends, a landmark new exhibition from acclaimed British photographer Tim Walker. Running from 9 October 2026 to 7 February 2027, the show brings together 250 specially created portraits made over five years, capturing Queer activists, storytellers, performers and icons including Ian McKellen, Chappell Roan, Isaac Julien and Miriam Margolyes. Curated by Susanna Brown, the exhibition traces over fifty years of Queer history and culture, from the campaigners of the Gay Liberation Front through to today's changemakers, before closing with a bold exploration of fashion, performance and fairy tale reimagined through a Queer lens.

 

From National Portrait Gallery:

Today the National Portrait Gallery reveals details of a major new exhibition created by renowned photographer Tim Walker, presenting a body of new work celebrating Queer culture and life. The project is the result of five years of connecting with Queer people and their allies in Britain and beyond and marks a decisive shift in Walker's artistic focus.

Walker rose to prominence in the 1990s with his unique style of fantastical photography. Since then, his fashion pictures and portraits have graced the pages of magazines such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, W, Love, Another Man and i-D. He has published seven books and staged solo exhibitions at museums around the world, while his short films and projects with musicians have won international acclaim.

Curated by Susanna Brown, the exhibition engages with the historical gallery setting, presenting both unsung heroes and established giants of Queer history. Designed by Walker's longtime collaborator Shona Heath with support from the National Portrait Gallery, Walker spotlights some 250 activists, social workers, nightlife performers, musicians and superstars in a spectacular display. Tim Walker's Fairyland: Love and Legends purposefully reclaims the word 'fairy' for Walker and his sitters, resisting homophobia and transphobia with his original blend of wit, joy and sensitivity.

The exhibition opens with portraits of trailblazers who spent the 1970s and 80s bravely advocating for the right to love. They include founding members of the Gay Liberation Front and Stonewall, among them Olivette Cole-Wilson, Andrew Lumsden, Lisa Power and Tom Robinson. Walker memorialises his own 'queeristocracy' in a style inspired by sixteenth-century portraits of Tudor aristocracy by Hans Holbein the Younger and Nicholas Hilliard.

 

L-R: Andrew Lumsden (1941–2023) (after Nicholas Hilliard), London, 2023; Olivette Cole–Wilson and Blackbird, London, 2025; Sunil Gupta, London, 2023; Jill Nalder Holding a Photograph of Dursley McLinden (1965–95), London, 2023. / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

 

A further group of Queer changemakers, such as Ted Brown, Caroline Paige, Gilli Salvat and Peter Tatchell, are shown alongside storytellers who made Queerness visible in the late 20th century, including James Ivory and Sarah Waters. Walker invited each sitter to bring a meaningful object to their portrait session: author Jane Cholmeley presents the original shop sign from Silver Moon Women's Bookshop, founded in 1984; photographer Sunil Gupta holds his camera; and filmmaker Isaac Julien clasps a conch shell, a motif from his pioneering 1989 film Looking for Langston. Walker then photographed those working today for a better future, among them Liz Carr, Shon Faye, Francis Lee, Lady Phyll, E-J Scott, and Kae Tempest. Nearly all these portraits are set against deceivingly simple white backgrounds, in a style reminiscent of the work of Richard Avedon, whom Walker assisted in the 1990s.

 

L-R: Lady Phyll, London, 2024; Kae Tempest, London, 2023; Francis Lee, Ode to Edward Carpenter, London, 2023; Shon Faye, London, 2025 / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

 

The exhibition pays tribute to the many people who came together in solidarity and action in response to the HIV/AIDS crisis of the 1980s. Walker's photographs of nurses and healthcare professionals who developed effective treatments for the disease are displayed alongside musicians who soundtracked the era, including Marc Almond, Holly Johnson, and Jimmy Somerville. Walker explains, "The brilliance of their music boomed despite the fear of mortality and discrimination. I wanted to bring that disco to the ward, to celebrate the tireless work to spread awareness and pursue proper care and solutions."

A room at the centre of the exhibition is dedicated to large-scale portraits of post-punk collective the Rebel Dykes, inspired by Karlheinz Weinberger's photographs of 1960s biker gangs. These are accompanied by a short film in which the women reflect on the importance of community and their campaigns for nuclear disarmament, environmentalism, sex positive feminism and HIV solidarity.

 

L-R: Aphra and Jo Barwick, Siobhan Fahey and Emily Witham, East Sussex, 2024; Maartje Convens and Marin Céleste, Camfield Place, Hertfordshire, 2022; Paul O'Grady (1955–2023) and Julian Clary as the Glitter Queens, with Harry Browse, Rae and Liam Elias as the Glitter Boys, London, 2022 / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

 

The second half of the exhibition looks at the transformative power that fashion, makeup and performance have long held for Queer people. It features portraits of designers Jean Paul Gaultier and Michaela Stark, drag performers Paul O'Grady, David Hoyle and Midgitte Bardot, personalities Alan Carr and Sue Perkins, and actors Ncuti Gatwa, Hunter Schafer, Fiona Shaw and Ben Whishaw, among many others. International music stars and icons Björk, Lady Gaga, Boy George, Frank Ocean, and Chappell Roan are also pictured.

 

L-R: David Hoyle, Prawn Cocktailed, London, 2023; Ben Whishaw in Crystal Prism, London, 2020; Fairyland Parade, Joe Sweeney, Matthew Keller, Harry Keita, Bolly Illusion, James Corbin, Oliver-Bijan Daryoush, Jack Newman, Yos Clark and Joseph O'Rourke, London, 2023; Alex Gorey and Matías Montes (after Yannis Tsarouchis), London, 2021 / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

 

The exhibition climaxes with a room of staged erotic scenes which subvert fairy tales and nursery rhymes through a Queer lens. Walker contextualises these works saying, "the greatest thing I learned from the activists, storytellers and performers who make up Fairyland is how essential eroticism and humour are. It's the very heart of what we're talking about when we talk about Queerness. A place where you can desire and be desired. A place where you can be whoever you want to be."

"The Fairyland exhibition is me finally placing myself in the queer realm with confidence and greeting all the other friends who live here. Just as I learned from the queer artists who came before me, some of whom I'm lucky enough to have met and photographed here, Fairyland is me saying you are not alone. I want visitors to the exhibition to remember that your difference is your power. It is a precious and beautiful thing." 

Tim Walker, Photographer

 

"This is the most ambitious and important project of Tim Walker's career. He takes exhibition visitors on a journey that begins with protest and outrage and ends with joy. For some visitors, the content will resonate with their own lived experiences, for others it will broaden their understanding of unfamiliar subjects. It's been an honour to collaborate with him and to witness the creation of this powerful and uplifting body of work."

Susanna Brown, Exhibition curator

 

"Tim Walker's Fairyland: Love and Legends takes us on an extraordinary journey through half a century of history. It is a vivid tapestry of Tim's many inspirations and influences and presents lavish, fantastical scenes alongside intimate and singular portraits. This timely exhibition is both deeply personal and profoundly universal and we are proud to host it at the Gallery."

Victoria Siddall, Director of the National Portrait Gallery

 

The exhibition is accompanied by a new book featuring contributions written by Travis Alabanza, Susanna Brown, Russell T Davies, Shon Faye, Lisa Power and Joelle Taylor.

For more details, please visit the National Portrait Gallery website.

Old artefacts aren't the only things to photograph in museums. At places such as Beamish and the Black Country Living Museum, you'll find people dressed in period clothing, acting out specific historical roles who are perfect subjects for a quick snap of times gone by. If you don't fancy heading to a museum there are also plenty of re-enactments held right across the UK where you'll find plenty of people in character who are more than happy to be photographed (a subject we'll be looking at later this month). 

  1. What Gear Do I Need? 

When shooting portraits in large museums where buildings and locations vary, you'll need a versatile zoom lens which allows you to move from a wide-angle to a mid-range focal point easily, even if in a busy crowd. A shorter zoom or prime lens such as 50mm can be used in more controlled environments.

Unless it's really impossible to do so, use a tripod as they slow you down and give you the chance to think about composition more and a reflector would be handy, although don't get in anyone's way with one, especially inside shops and other indoor locations where space can be lacking. 
 

2. Do Your Research 

Make good use of the internet to search for places of interest but always keep a lookout for notices in local shops and venues advertising events as these tend to be based more locally, saving you time and money. 
 

3. Take Your Photos At Less Busy Times

To avoid crowds, arrive as early as you can or stay later. By doing so you'll be able to capture images without a queue of people waiting behind you, meaning you can take your time and as a result, produce better shots. 
 

4. Take A Walk Around 

When you arrive at the museum have a look around and see what's where and who's around to photograph. If possible, find a good subject then go and look for a fitting background. However, most of your subjects will already be in locations that fit their character such as in shops, workshops etc. so you may not need to do this. Do remember though that getting the background right in the shot is much easier than editing one in. 

Do look for 'that person' other photographers aren't surrounding which is easier said than done sometimes but it will give you a shot that, hopefully, not many others will have captured. 

 

5. Always Be Polite

When you do find someone you want to photograph always ask permission first, even if the people there expect to be photographed it's always better to ask. Be confident and always act professionally. You may need to give direction but some will automatically create a pose they like or have held on several occasions before. You can capture them in this pose but do try and persuade them to change their stance a little to give you something a little more unique. It's also important to keep them chatting as this put them at ease and allow a bit of their personality/character to come through.
 

6. Double-Check The Scene Before Hitting The Shutter Button

Small details make a huge difference so do check your frame carefully before taking your shot. Asking someone in a polite way to not smile so much or open their eyes wider may seem like a small thing but it will make a big difference to your final image. 
 

7. Think About The Lighting 

You may find that there's either not enough light or too much electric/artificial lighting and this is where moving a subject will help, but you will need their cooperation so that's why it's always worth chatting to them first.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

In 2010, I made a decision that didn't make much sense on paper. I sold my Nikon gear and bought the first Olympus Pen E-P1.

 

It was slow. It was imperfect. Autofocus... lol. It didn't impress anyone who cared about specs.

But it changed how I worked in the street.

Since then, I've worked with Canon DSLRs, Lumix bodies, Olympus, Ricoh, Sony, Fujifilm, and Pentax systems in real documentary contexts, not as a collector or reviewer, but as a working photographer moving through unpredictable environments.

And over time, something became clear.

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A $200 lens outperforming a Zeiss on corner sharpness is exactly the kind of result that shows how fast optics have moved. The 24mm focal length gives you a wide field of view with just enough drama to hold onto your subject, and paired with a bright aperture, it delivers backgrounds that fall away beautifully. 

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Most slow shutter advice sends you straight to a tripod, a waterfall, and a 30-second exposure. There's a whole range of shutter speeds you can shoot handheld that keeps part of your frame sharp while letting motion streak through it. 

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