Photography News

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|154993|154993_1774066401.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Mike43 (Day 21 - Rivers & Waterfalls).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 15

Spring Landscapes

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|146271|146271_1773571981.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 16

Small Mammals

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|98542|3807981[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 17

Towns At Night

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|51474|51474_1773750061.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

  Day 18

Macro Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|89636|3848619[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 19

Low Light Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|345095|345095_1773911411.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 20

Moon

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|115557|2814423[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 22

Seascapes

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|332115|332115_1774165078.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 23

Faces

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|163790|163790_1774243122.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

Simplicity has an undeniable charm, especially when it comes to setting up for filming. This new, thoughtfully designed wireless microphone from Saramonic offers exactly that. 

[Read More]

Just when you thought Thunderbolt™ 4 was fast, here comes the new generation that takes it further. UGREEN's new docking stations offer to upgrade your workflow if you're up for it. 

[Read More]

If you're new to photography, you might feel overwhelmed by the variety of settings and controls on your camera. But don't worry, there are only a few you actually need to worry about.  

[Read More]

Most photographers spend years building an archive worth protecting, but very few have a plan for what happens to it after they die. Copyright, physical media, cloud accounts, and stock licensing don't sort themselves out automatically, and without a plan, decades of work can vanish or get tied up in legal chaos. 

[Read More]

 

With good cameras becoming more reasonably priced and nearly all phones having one built-in, photography's something that most people can now easily dabble in. Even though this is true, there are still people out there, kids for example, who haven't picked up a camera before and need a little guidance. So, that brings us on to our ten basic photography tips to teach someone new to photography.

1. Hold The Camera Correctly

This may seem like a really obvious thing to be telling someone, but camera shake, which can occur when you're not holding the camera correctly, is a problem those who are new to photography face. In fact, those who use mobile phones to take photos and hold one hand out while trying to press the shutter button will know all too well how it can result in blurry, wonky shots. To stop this, hold your camera/smartphone with two hands, quite close to your body, position your feet shoulder-width apart to give yourself a more stable base to shoot from.
[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]
If you're using the LCD to compose your shot don't stick your arms out too far in front of you and keep your arms/elbows tucked in when possible.

Before you take your shot, make sure your fingers aren't over the flash (if using it) or blocking the lens and keep a firm grip of your camera but don't squeeze too tightly as you can cause the camera to move, resulting in shake.
 

2. Support

Having your arms tucked close to your sides and standing as still as possible will stop any blur caused by movement from spoiling your shot. Don't move your camera/phone away as soon as you've clicked your shutter button either as shutter lag can mean your camera's still processing the shot so you'll end up with a blurry photo of another part of the scene rather than the person or object you want a photo of.

Using a tripod will keep the camera still and help keep shake to a minimum. There are various light-weight, easy to use models which are designed to be used with smaller cameras.

If you don't have a tripod, use a nearby solid object as a support or lean against a wall, tree or whatever object you can find that won't move. 
 

3. Breathing

Being conscious of your breathing can further minimise shake. Some suggest taking a deep breath, holding it, taking your shot and exhaling while others prefer to do it the other way around. It's not something that's recommended for very long exposures though!

4. Hold The Camera Straight

Check the framing of your shot before hitting the shutter button as having a photo where it looks like everything's about to slide out of frame's easily done. Having said that, there are times when shooting on an angle can work really well but most of the time, you'll want your horizons to be straight. Using a tripod can help as some models have built-in spirit levels which can tell you when the tripod's not straight. There are the occasions where the spirit level will tell you the shot's wonky but your eye will know different so trust your instincts on these occasions.

 

5. Different Modes

Camera modes are there to help you capture the best possible images you can so learn what they're for and switch to them when needed. There's also aperture and shutter priority which give you more control over how your camera takes photos and are a great way to start your journey into the manual world. For more tips take a look at these tutorials:

• Camera Modes
• Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority

As well as using different modes for different situations, have a go at shooting from different angles and positions too.

 

 

6. Shutter Button

Don't be too heavy-handed with the shutter button as this can cause the camera to move which can mean you end up with a slightly blurred shot.

Another important thing to learn about the shutter button is that it can be pressed halfway to focus your shot. This can be used in all shooting situations but is particularly important for shots where your camera doesn't know what your main focus point is and as a result, you end up with blur in the wrong part of the shot. An example of this would be when you position your subject to the left or right of the shot, leaving more space towards the centre and opposite side. As your subject is off-centre your camera may not think they're what you want to focus on and as a result, they'll be blurry while you'll have a background that's nicely in focus. However, using focus lock (half-pressing the shutter) will stop this from happening. Have a look at our previous tutorial for more tips on how to use this: Focus Lock.

7. Backgrounds

Check the background for unsightly items and objects sticking out of your subject's head. If you're not planning on throwing your background out of focus (some drive modes do this automatically) so it's blurred, make sure it's not too distracting or cluttered.

 

8. Fill The Frame

Use the optical zoom on your camera to bring your subject closer, filling the frame and creating more interest. A person can look dwarfed in a wide landscape or surrounded by buildings so use your zoom so you don't lose them in the frame. If you're using a camera phone which doesn't have an optical zoom use your feet to move you closer to your subject rather than using the digital zoom which can lower the quality of the shot. 

 

9. Focus Point

A shot needs a focal point otherwise your eyes will be left searching the image and they won't find anywhere to settle. You can have more than one focal point but make sure the point that's secondary doesn't fight your main focal point to be the centre of attention. Once you know what your main focal point is there are various compositional tricks you can perform which includes using various elements within the frame to draw the eye to one focus point, you can adjust your framing to make a more pleasing composition or zoom in to really focus on your subject, eliminating other items in the process.

 

10. Shoot Different Subjects

Many professional photographers focus on one type of photography, but this isn't something you need to do straight away. Experiment with various subjects, learning how each needs to be approached differently in the process. It'll also give you the chance to find out which you enjoy shooting the most so if you do want to start shooting more regularly, you'll have a particular subject you can work on perfecting.

Don't be afraid to take lots of shots either as getting out there and actually pressing the shutter button is the best way to learn. Do take the time to evaluate your work too so you know what needs to be improved and just as importantly, know what techniques work successfully. You can also ask other photographers, family members and friends for their feedback too as sometimes they'll see things you've missed. Finally, make sure you have fun and enjoy taking photos! 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Landscape photography has an intimidating reputation, built up by an industry of tutorials, workshops, books, and courses that treat it like a discipline requiring years of study. But this video makes a compelling case that most of that complexity is noise. 

[Read More]

Getting white balance right in real estate interiors is harder than it looks. Competing light sources, colored walls, and reflective surfaces all pull your colors in different directions, and fixing it all globally in post rarely works. 

[Read More]

There's been a lot of press about how the new MacBook Neo performs on one photo or video task or another, and largely the consensus has been that it can do a number of things, but not all things. Well, what does that mean in actual raw data? 

 

[Read More]

 

Nikon Europe has introduced a free extended five-year warranty on all newly purchased NIKKOR Z mount lenses, offering photographers added confidence and long-term protection. The warranty applies to all Z mount lenses, including kits and teleconverters, purchased from authorised Nikon retailers, the Nikon Store, and Nikon Plazas across most European countries. This initiative highlights Nikon’s trust in the enduring quality of its NIKKOR lenses, built on more than 90 years of optical innovation.

 

From Nikon:

Nikon Europe announces an extended, free five-year warranty on all newly purchased NIKKOR Z mount lenses.

Purchasing a new NIKKOR Z mount lens now comes with added peace of mind, as the lens will be covered against faults that might occur within the first five years of ownership.1

The new warranty is applicable in most European countries2 and covers NIKKOR Z lenses purchased from authorised Nikon retailers, Nikon Store and Nikon Plazas in Europe.

All NIKKOR Z mount lenses are covered by the new warranty, including kit lenses and teleconverters. If a claim fulfils the conditions during the extended warranty period, the lens will be repaired free of charge by authorised Nikon technicians.

Customers simply need to register their NIKKOR Z lens product within 90 days of purchase via an easy online process and it will be covered for five years from the date of purchase.

Nikon has been designing and manufacturing NIKKOR lenses for more than 90 years, pushing innovation in optical science alongside a dedication to the highest possible quality products. This extended free warranty reflects Nikon's confidence in the enduring quality of NIKKOR lenses.

For more information, please visit the Nikon Europe website.

 

1 Terms and conditions apply

2 See terms and conditions for the full list of applicable countries

Shooting in low light is one of the most technically demanding situations in photography, and a handful of bad habits can quietly ruin your results before you ever open an editing program. Most of these mistakes are easy to fix once you know what to look for. 

[Read More]

 

When you look out of your window and you see your lawn covered in morning dew, sparkling in the sunlight you need to get out of your PJs, pick up your camera and get outside to photograph it. If you can't face getting up quite so early you can try using a spray bottle on your plants and shrubbery as this will create the same kind of effect.

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]

1. Macro Lens Is A Must 

You'll need a macro lens as you're going to be working at close focusing distances but if you're a compact user you should switch to macro mode (usually a flower symbol on your mode dial) to let your camera know you're going to be working close to your subject).
 

2. Find Your Tripod 

If you have a tripod with a centre column that can be turned horizontally or upside down, set it up, otherwise, you might find a bean bag more useful. If you have one, use a cable release or remote release as even the slightest touch on the camera can cause enough camera shake to blur your image. Alternatively, a two-second self-timer gives you enough time to press the button and let go or, if your camera supports it, use your Smart Device to trigger the shutter.
 

3. Aperture Choices

A mid-range aperture will give you a decent depth of field, throwing the background out of focus while the subject stays ultra-sharp. Keep an eye on your shutter speed as you don't want a blurry photo. Do try a larger aperture too but if you find it blurs more of the shot then you intended, just change the size.
 

4. Focus On The Drop

Make sure your focus is on the drop(s) so you get a nice clear shot of them. You may have to sacrifice foreground sharpness as a blurry drop will just distract the viewer.
 

5. Refraction Photography

Dewdrops falling down blades of grass look great but another cool and simple trick is to get an image inside the dewdrop. To do this take another flower or grass blade and move it behind your subject until you can see it in your viewfinder. Do remember that everything you see is reversed in the dewdrop though so if you want to centre the object that's to the left you need to move it more to the right.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

For as far as I can recall, I have always been somewhat skeptical about using flashes for my personal work, specifically the casual, street-documentary style shooting that I tend to do whenever I simply feel like bringing a camera out. Ironically, when it comes to my commercial work, where everything is more controlled with purpose, I am not shy about using flashes to shape the lighting of the final image.  

[Read More]

Recently, I got a chance to have a look at the brand-new Laowa Sunlight 2x FF Anamorphic Zoom Series and thought I'd share a thought or two. 

[Read More]

Today, I'm not talking about the newest camera on the market. But I'm talking about one of the best. And, in the end, that's kind of the point. 

[Read More]

Doriyan Coleman is a Cleveland-based photographer, author, and educator whose work treats the everyday as something worthy of sustained attention. His street photography draws on themes of selfhood, community, and the quiet grandeur of the natural world, and the results feel less like documentation and more like visual verse. 

[Read More]

Shooting in bad light isn't a death sentence for your images. In fact, some of the strongest nature photographs come from conditions most people walk away from. Knowing how to read light, use contrast, and process with intention separates images that resonate from ones that just document a place. 

[Read More]

Great light isn't random. After 15 years of landscape photography, William Patino makes the case that almost none of his best work has come down to luck. It comes down to reading the sky, understanding cloud behavior, and knowing exactly what to do once conditions start to break your way. 

[Read More]

Flat photos usually come down to one thing: no sense of depth. Understanding how to build layers into your compositions is one of those skills that quietly separates the work of consistently compelling photographers from everyone else. 

[Read More]

Churches are something the majority of us will have in our towns and villages and they're a great location for a spot of photography as they're just as interesting on the inside as they are on the outside. Plus, you might have a graveyard to explore as well. Whatever your style of photography, a church will probably have something to grab your attention. 

 

1. Getting Access 

 

To make the most of what our churches have to offer we have to get inside them which can be trickier than you think. Larger churches and cathedrals may have photographic restrictions (a fee payable to use a tripod, no flash etc.) and certain opening hours but generally smaller, local churches are more willing to give you access any time of the day. Just phone in advance to let the vicar or whoever holds the key know that you'd like to take some photographs inside the church. In many smaller towns churches are left unlocked during the day. 

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]

In buildings of this size, you might as well keep your flash in your bag as it will only add light to objects a few feet in front of you. Instead, you need to get your sturdy tripod out, fasten your camera to it and use a long exposure.

As exposures can be several seconds long, the smallest of nudges can cause the camera to shake so try using a remote / cable release or the camera's self-timer option to reduce it. You could even use your Smartphone to trigger the shutter if you have a camera which can be controlled remotely via smart devices. When it comes to lenses, anything goes. Telephoto lenses can be used to capture the details found on the roof, wide-angle lenses for the wider architectural scenes and macro lenses for close up details of pews, columns and altars.

 

2. Respect Your Surroundings & Fellow Visitors 

 

Before we discuss shooting suggestions do please remember churches, particularly smaller ones, are quiet places so try to make as little noise as possible as you move around. Be respectful of others around you who are there to pray etc. too.

If you're visiting a church that's popular with tourists do remember that others will want to take photos too so work quickly or plan your visit for first thing in the morning or nearer closing time when less visitors will be around. 

 

3. Shooting Suggestions 

 

Try shooting down the aisle to capture the lines of pews, altar and everything else people think of when you ask them to describe a church. Find a comfy pew or a part of the floor you can lie on (don't worry about the funny looks) and focus your lens on the roof which often has interesting patterns and features. Don't be afraid to get in close to objects either.

Reflections off windows, cases and even abstract shots of blurred lines of pews up close can create interesting images. Although if you're trying to capture images of objects protected by cases you won't want reflections or glare spoiling your shot. Try using an ND, polarising filter or cupping your hand around your lens to cut down on reflections and have a cloth handy to remove any fingerprints that have been left on the case.

The large stained glass windows found in most churches look great when lit up by sunlight and they also work well as zoom burst subjects, something we've covered previously on the site. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition