Photography News

Choosing between objective and subjective camera coverage is one of the most consequential decisions you make when planning a scene. The difference between showing an audience what's happening and making them feel it from the inside can transform a competent scene into an unforgettable one. 

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Film is expensive, inconvenient, and gives you zero instant feedback. A single shot on medium or large format can run you the equivalent of a few dollars once you factor in the film stock, processing, and scanning. Those aren't reasons to dismiss it entirely, though. 

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Wildlife photography is a popular photographic subject, but it's not one of the easiest photography types to master. Subjects are fast, shy and can be tricky to capture, plus precision and patience are a must which means it's not something we can all get right. With this in mind, we've put together a list of 5 common mistakes along with advice on how to avoid them. 

 

1. Your Subject Is Too Small In The Frame

Wild animals are easily spooked which means getting close to them is usually out of the question. As a result, you may find that your wildlife shots tend to have more of what's surrounding your subject in shot, with your subject looking tiny and lost in its environment. There are times when shooting an environmental portrait of your animal will work but most of the time you'll want to capture frame-filling shots that show sharp eyes. For this, you need a telephoto lens (200mm +) as you'll be able to zoom in but still keep a decent distance. If you don't want to rely on super-long lenses, spend an extra half-hour getting closer to the subject instead. Consider investing in a hide or camouflage gear as this will allow you to work closer to your subject without scaring them off.
 

2. You Didn't Do Your Research

Understanding your subject and knowing where you need to be and at what time is essential if you want to capture a top wildlife shot. Where does your subject call home? What do they eat? When are they most active and for your own safety, it's worth knowing how they'll react if they feel you're a threat. 
 

3. You Didn't Wait Long Enough

Wildlife shots aren't something you can just capture successfully in a couple of off-the-cuff shots because as we've said, animals/birds are easily spooked and it can take some species a while to get used to your presence. Be quiet, sit still and be as inconspicuous as possible. Even if you're using a hide it will still take a while for your subject to feel comfortable so patience is very much the key. If you're photographing birds in your garden consider setting the hide up the day before you want to use it so your garden visitors get used to it. 


 

4. Your Subject Isn't Sharp

Keep longer lenses supported on a monopod or tripod to prevent camera shake spoiling your shots and make sure you're using a fast enough shutter speed to freeze movement. Even small garden birds will move quicker than you think, especially when they're sat still but their heads are continuously twitching. You may also find that depth of field is restricted when using wider apertures so do make sure enough of your subject is sharp. Increasing the ISO will mean you can use a smaller aperture but do be aware of noise. Do zoom in when previewing your shots to check the sharpness of your subject, too. 
 

5. Composition Isn't Great

As you do when photographing a person, always think about your composition before taking your shot. Wait for their heads to turn towards the camera or at least until their face is visible. If they are looking towards the edge of the frame, make sure there's actually space to look into, especially if they're moving. Again, it's important to be patient and be prepared to take more bad photos than good ones as wildlife are unpredictable so you will capture shots that are spoilt by flapping wings, head turns and other movements. Check that you've not clipped a tail or wing with the edge of the frame and try to avoid centred compositions where possible as they tend to look uninteresting. 

 

 

 

Colour management just got more accessible for Mac-based creatives. Calibrite has revealed that its Display Plus HL colorimeter has received Apple approval for use with Apple's built-in display calibration system, a first for any colorimeter on the market. This level of hardware-level precision was previously reserved for high-end spectroradiometers used in dedicated colour facilities, yet the Display Plus HL brings that same capability to working photographers, filmmakers, and designers at a fraction of the cost.

 

From Calibrite:

Calibrite, the leader in colour management solutions trusted by photographers, filmmakers, and colourists worldwide, announced today that the Calibrite Display Plus HL has received Apple approval for use with Apple’s built-in display calibration system.

It is the first colorimeter to achieve this distinction.

The approval enables hardware-level calibration for Apple Studio Display, Studio Display XDR, Pro Display XDR, and supported MacBook Pro models, working natively within Apple’s macOS calibration workflow.

 

Calibration Written to the Display, Not Layered on Top

Unlike profile-based adjustment, Apple’s display calibration system writes settings directly to the display, refining white point, luminance, and colour accuracy at the source. A single calibration session updates every reference mode simultaneously, delivering consistent, reliable colour across the full brightness range, from SDR to HDR content up to 2,000 nits peak brightness.

Until now, this level of hardware-level precision required professional spectroradiometers designed for dedicated colour facilities; instruments priced well beyond the reach of most working creatives. At £309, Calibrite Display Plus HL changes that.

 

"This is a genuinely exciting moment for us at Calibrite. Calibrite Display Plus HL is now Apple Approved for hardware-level display calibration, working natively within Apple’s built-in macOS workflow across the full range of supported Apple displays. Until now, that level of precision required professional instruments priced for dedicated colour facilities. At under £400, Calibrite Display Plus HL brings it within reach of every serious creator on Apple hardware. For anyone serious about colour on Apple hardware, this changes what’s possible, and what’s affordable." -Stefan Zrenner, General Manager of Calibrite

 

Built for Apple’s Evolving Colour Standards

Calibrite Display Plus HL is designed to work with Apple’s latest colour technologies, including Apple CMF 2026, Apple’s next-generation Colour Matching Function that advances beyond the dated CIE 1931 standard, ensuring accurate and dependable results as display technology continues to evolve.

For professionals who require a comprehensive colour management workflow, Calibrite Display Plus HL works alongside Calibrite PROFILER software for ICC profiling, validation, and reporting, providing a complete end-to-end solution.

 

Availability

Calibrite Display Plus HL is available at £309 RRP through authorised retailers and calibrite.com. It is currently on offer at £249 until 30 June 2026.

 

Supported displays include:

• Apple Studio Display (2022 and 2026)
• Apple Studio Display XDR
• Apple Pro Display XDR
• Supported MacBook Pro models (M1-M5 Pro/Max and later)

 

For more information, please visit the Calibrite website.

 

About Calibrite

Calibrite is committed to providing the very best colour control solutions for Colour Perfectionists; photographers, filmmakers, designers, and content creators who love color and demand the very best tools for their colour critical creative workflow. From display calibration to ICC profiling and beyond, Calibrite builds tools for those who demand precision.

 

 

Photogenic lighthouses can be found all around the UK's coastline and many of us are close enough to head out for a day trip where a space for photographing a lighthouse, among other things, can be made. However, not all shots need be taken when there's plenty of light in the sky as silhouettes of lighthouses can be just as interesting as ones that capture textures and colour.
 

1. What Gear Do I Need?

You can use any lens for a lighthouse silhouette, depending on the type of image you are wanting to shoot. With a wide-angle, you will need to get in closer and that means converging verticals although that it not a problem with a lighthouse. However, the top will look rather thin and spindly.

From further away, you can frame the lighthouse along the base of the frame and let a colourful sunrise or sunset sky dominate. With a telephoto, you can retreat even further away so it really depends on the effect you are wanting to get.

It's always a good idea to use a tripod for landscapes as you need to ensure your horizons are straight and it makes it easier to adjust your camera settings too.

 

Always make room for filters as they can come in handy and plenty of camera bags have compartments for accessories such as these, plus they don't take up much room.

 

2. What Time Of Day Is Best? 

Timing your shoot is the key thing here. Of course, you can shoot silhouettes at any time of day, but they often look much better when there is some warmth in the sky, so early or late in the day is best.

Early isn't for everyone, however the advantage of sunrise, though, is that there are not many people around so it depends on the effect you are after.

 

3. What About The Weather? 

You are obviously very dependent on the sky for this technique and you can get good effects in all sorts of conditions – dull, even greyness is when it is not worth the effort.
 

4. Never Look Directly At The Sun 

One word of warning with the sun – you should never look through the camera directly at the sun because you can permanently damage your eyes. For silhouettes like this make sure that the sun is shielded by the lighthouse when you are framing up. Or if you want the sun in the frame, use the camera's Live View feature so you can frame up safely.

 

5. How Can I Create A Silhouette?

Aim a camera at a brightly backlit scene and a silhouette is often the result anyway. Some multi-zone metering systems will try to avoid that, though, and give you more detail than you might want in the shadows. This is easily sorted by aiming the camera up at the sky and using the auto exposure lock to take a reading off the brighter sky. You could use the spot or centre-weight light measurement modes of your camera but multi-segment should work fine too. Recompose and shoot for the perfect silhouette. Or just set -1EV or even -2EV on the exposure compensation dial.

 

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Dear Lisa,

I've loved photography for years and have always treated it as a hobby. Over time, friends, family, and people they know have asked me to photograph birthdays, couples, small events, and the odd portrait session. I never really advertised myself; it just sort of happened. 

The problem is that I've started wondering whether I could actually turn this into something more serious.

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Matt Black has spent much of his career doing something most photographers avoid: staying uncomfortable long enough that it stops being a moment and instead starts becoming a pattern. A member of Magnum Photos, Black is best known for his long-term project American Geography, a six-year journey across the United States in which he traveled over 100,000 miles and 46 states. During this journey, his focus was specific and deliberate. Black documented communities with concentrated poverty, defined as places where at least 20% of the population lives below the poverty line.

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Instagram has started testing an "AI creator" label, an account-level badge that tells viewers a profile "posts content that was generated or modified with AI." It is clearer than the vague "AI info" tag Meta already sprinkles on some posts, and it reads like a step toward honesty in a feed increasingly clogged with synthetic images and video. There is one detail that undoes all of it. The label is entirely optional.  

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Pancake lenses are a niche obsession, but they solve a real problem: full-size image quality in a package small enough to actually carry. Most of them cut corners on sharpness to hit that tiny footprint, but a handful genuinely don't. 

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Fringing around hair and fur is one of the most stubborn problems you'll run into when cutting out subjects in Photoshop. No matter how clean your layer mask looks, switching to a new background can expose a halo of the original background color that ruins the shot. 

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Shooting landscapes in the rain sounds miserable, and sometimes it is. But the difference between a wasted day and a productive one often comes down to how you adapt when conditions refuse to cooperate. 

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Photographing a tiny chapel on a rock off the northwest coast of Spain sounds straightforward until you factor in tides, unpredictable weather, and a composition that may or may not even be physically possible. The difference between a shot that works and one that doesn't here comes down to a very specific water level on one of the highest tides of the year. 

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If you've been wondering if you should purchase a telephoto lens, here are 7 reasons why, we think, they're a worthwhile investment. Still not sure? Have a read of our lens buying guide and we also have a top list of telephoto lenses that's well worth a peruse. 

 

1. Out Of Focus Background

 

Telephoto lenses are useful for producing shots that have a shallow depth of field which means your backgrounds will be nicely out of focus allowing all attention to fall on your subject.

2. Capturing Portraits

 

Shooting portraits with longer lenses means you still fill the frame with your subject's face without making them feel uncomfortable by invading their personal space. Longer focal lengths also give a more pleasing perspective and the good bokeh they create, as mentioned previously, helps isolate your subject so they 'pop' from the frame. Finally, the compression longer lenses offer, especially when you're using a wide-ish aperture, helps flatter their features – something all subjects want.

3. Shoot Landscapes

If you have distant and foreground interest you should pull out your longer lens from your bag. Just make sure you're using a small aperture as you'll need front to back sharpness in your shot. This works well with interesting rock formations, trees etc. but also consider using an object such as a fence or path that can lead the eye from the front of the image to a point of interest in the distance. The perspective longer lenses create also mean you can almost stack distant and objects closer to your lens so they appear to be much closer to each other than they are, adding impact and extra interest as you do. This can work particularly well on misty mornings when distant hills can be turned into lines of stacked shapes.

If you have a lot of open, boring space between you and the mountains you want to photograph use the longer focal length to pull the mountains to you, removing the empty foreground as you do. You can also pick out detail such as a waterfall, tree or distant structure that a wide-angle lens wouldn't be able to capture in the same way.

 

4. Photograph Buildings

 

Longer lenses will help you highlight patterns and shoot interesting detail you'd miss with a wide-angle lens. It also means that if you can't access the roof to get close to the statues/carvings that sit around the building you're photographing, you can use the longer lens from the ground to bring the detail to you. Do remember though that when longer lenses magnify distant objects the tiniest of movements can create a large amount of blur in your photograph so make sure you stick to quicker shutter speeds when possible and carry a lens that features vibration reduction. For more stability work with a tripod.

 

5. Capture Shots Of Wildlife

 

Try and get close to a lot of wildlife and they'll have ran or flown off before you've got your camera out of its bag. Instead of playing a game of cat and mouse all day, find a spot that you won't scare the wildlife off from and use the pull of a telephoto lens to bring the animal/bird to you. Using a longer lens will also mean you're not putting yourself in danger if you're trying to capture shots of something known to bite!

6. Photograph Action / Sporting Events 

Unless you have a press pass, getting close to the action at many sporting events isn't possible so you'll need your long lens. For tips on shooting action take a look at ePHOTOzine's technique section.

 

7. Shoot For The Moon

 

If you try and photograph the moon without a telephoto lens (you may also need a teleconverter too) it will just like a small bright circle sat against a blanket of black sky. For tips on shooting the moon take a look at our previous articles in the technique section.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

    It's well-known in the photography community that you can go to certain locations and expect to see tripod holes in the floor where photographer after photographer has set-up to capture a popular shot so how can we, as photographers, do something a little bit different? We answer this question, and more, below. 

 

1. What Gear Do I Need? 

1. Zoom lens - it's easier to carry just one lens
2. Support - A support that's lightweight and compact is easier to carry and this could be a tripod or monopod, depending on your preference. 
3. Camera bag - An everyday backpack which is strong, can carry various pieces of kit and is easy to access is perfect for this type of photography. A rucksack style distributes the weight of kit more evenly, which means you'll be more comfortable when walking for long periods of time. 

 

2. What Research Should I Do? 

Having a look through online photo galleries and in travel guides will give you an overall picture of how the landmark(s) you're planning on visiting have been captured before. You'll also be able to find out if there are any costs and the opening/closing times so you can plan your trip around the crowds of tourists that will no doubt flock to your photographic subject. When you arrive at your destination have a look around the tourist information office as you'll find plenty of postcards that feature photos of landmarks and other important buildings which can be a great source for shooting ideas.

 

 

3. Is Clichéd OK?

There are shots that every photographer and his dog have taken of well-known landmarks, but this doesn't mean you should avoid them. A good, postcard style shot of a landmark is something you should try and get early on in your trip then spend the rest of the hour, day or week looking for angles that mean the landmark is still recognisable but the shot you produce is slightly different to what someone would usually expect to see.

 

4. When Should I Plan My Visit For? 

The problem with landmarks is they're popular with tourists so unless you want them in the shot, you'll have to arrive early or stay late to avoid them. Of course, changing your angle or working a little closer to the structure will mean tourists become less of a problem. If it's a really busy day, including them in the shot can add an extra element of interest. Particularly if you use a slightly slower shutter speed to blur their movement around the bottom of the structure you're photographing. Just remember to carry your tripod as you will need it if you plan on playing with slower shutter speeds. Panoramas can work particularly well in busy places too. 

There's probably a couple of local landmarks that may not be as popular with the tourists but are important to the people who live there so consider capturing them too if you want to work somewhere that's slightly less busy.

 

 

5. How Can I Be Different? 

Use your feet and take a walk around to find a unique take on the landmark you're photographing. How does it look from underneath? Can you crouch down and shoot up? Or climb some steps or a hill that's close by to give you a little more elevation. Working from a slightly higher angle can help reduce the convergence you get when shooting tall structures too. When you've finished with the front of the structure have you ever considered photographing it from the back? No? Well, not many tourists do either so you'll be able to capture a unique photo.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

The view from a window seat at cruising altitude is one of the few genuinely unique perspectives available to anyone with a camera and a boarding pass. Mountain ranges, river deltas, coastlines, city grids, cloud formations, and weather systems reveal themselves at a scale and angle that no drone, helicopter charter, or hiking trail can replicate. The light at altitude behaves differently than it does on the ground: cleaner, less diffused by low-altitude haze, with color gradients at the horizon that shift from warm gold to deep indigo across a span of sky you cannot see from the surface

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The best camera upgrade you make this year isn't a new lens, side grip, or lens filter. This camera upgrade makes you a better photographer because it gives you more control over how you see.

 

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One of the benefits of the Micro Four Thirds system is that there are many, many lenses to choose from to get the job done. If that job is specifically portraits, look no further than this deep dive into almost a dozen of the options available for the system. 

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Growth in photography often feels like a series of overwhelming choices. We look at different genres and techniques, trying to find a starting point that feels right. But the most effective roadmap for development is found in a classic idea you've probably heard: great artists don't just copy, they steal. 

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Most Lightroom Classic users stick to the same handful of tools and never dig into what the software can actually do. The masking system alone, when used to its full potential, can give you precise, layered control over every part of an image that most basic edits can't touch. 

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While some of us were indoors spraying Windex on our groceries during the COVID-19 pandemic, others took the time to explore how to visually relate to that time through passion projects. Photographer and author John Lazzaro did just that, spending those years and then some exploring, photographically, the history of sanatoriums in the United States to produce his latest book, Sanatorium. 

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