Photography News

The biggest weakness of Sony's newest high-resolution camera turns out to be everything you expected of it before you ever picked it up. Expectations, not hardware, set the trap, and understanding that shift changes how you shoot with a resolution-first body in a market crowded with do-it-all machines. 

[Read More]

A motion-activated camera captured the first confirmed images of a black-naped pheasant-pigeon since 1882. The rare ground-dwelling bird, known locally as Auwo, was photographed on Fergusson Island in Papua New Guinea only two days before the expedition was scheduled to end.

 

[Read More]

 

It's the school summer holidays here in the UK which means many will be heading to the coast either on day-trips or for a longer holiday which gives us photographers the chance to capture a few coastal landscapes. If you do have coastal landscapes on your summer shoot agenda, here are a few tips to think about.

  1. Time Of Day

You can capture coastal landscapes at any time of the day, however, most photographers favour the light during the 'golden hours'. You get this light regardless of where you are, but it is where it falls that is important. On the east coast, the land gets warm light early in the day but not later when the sea gets the benefit. On the west coast, it is the other way round. But this is a massive generalisation because of the way the coastline is not made up of straight lines. Check an OS map to see the potential of the coastline you're visiting and do your research online to ensure you don't miss the best light.

It's also worth noting that everything from blue skies dotted with white clouds to brewing storm clouds can work well at the coast, you just have to be out at the right time of day with the right gear which includes waterproofs and protection for your camera gear if you're heading out when the heavens have opened.

 

2. Pack The Right Accessories

Wide-angle lenses will be what we tend to reach for first when landscapes are in-mind and a tripod is an essential piece of kit no landscape photographer should be without. As you could be working with lower light levels and slower shutter speeds you may want to consider taking a remote / cable release to reduce the risk of camera shake and make sure image stabilisation is switched off when supporting your kit on a tripod otherwise shake could be introduced. To balance the exposure, you may find an ND grad filter handy as the sky tends to be a lot brighter than other areas of your shot.

 

3. Foreground interest

There's nothing wrong with a photo of an empty beach stretching out for what seems to be miles but by adding some foreground interest you'll give your image more depth, help guide the eye through the shot and keep people interested in your photo for longer. A low angle and a wide-angle lens will help exaggerate the perspective of the shot and anything from rocks and wood that's washed up after a storm to jetties, lobster pots and patterns in the sand can be used to add interest the foreground of your shot. Just remember you'll need a smaller aperture to get everything from the front to the back of the shot in focus. This could increase the exposure time, particularly if you're shooting during the 'golden hours', so make use of your tripod.

Reflections can be used as foreground interest to add more depth to a scene. They'll also help brighten your foreground, making the overall shot more evenly lit. Look for puddles left by the receding tide or try using the water sat in rock pools to capture reflections of a cloud-dotted or sunset sky.

 

 

4. Long exposures

If you're working when the light's lower or just like the 'misty' water effect, you're going to need to use slower shutter speeds. For this, you need a strong, sturdy tripod and you must make sure it's not going to topple over if a wave circles it. Try pushing the legs into the sand slightly to anchor its position; just remember to wash the feet when you get home to get rid of the sand and salt. If it's a particularly bright day you'll need an ND filter to reduce the amount of light reaching the camera's sensor and remember to use low ISOs as well as a small aperture. If you don't want to capture the 'blurred' water shot, you'll need to use quicker shutter speeds, wider apertures and you may need to increase your ISO level. Alternatively, visit the location earlier / later (depending on the time of day) when there's still plenty of light in the sky.

A blurry sky dotted with clouds will give you the chance to create patterns as the longer exposures cause the cloud's movement to stretch across the sky and if you wait until the sun's set you could capture the movement of the stars as trails above the ocean, but this is a wholly different technique in itself.

 

5. Horizons

You don't want it to look like the sea and sand's about to slide out of shot so make sure the horizon's straight and don't put it in the centre of the frame. If the sky's more interesting move the horizon down but if there's more interest in the foreground lose some of the sky and move the horizon up. If you are going to deliberately slope the horizon make sure you make it obvious otherwise it'll just look like you've not looked through the viewfinder to check if the horizon's level or not.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

  1. What's A Catchlight?

A catchlight is simply a light's highlight reflected off the surface of your subject's eyes. They subtly breathe life into portraits by adding a little more depth to the eyes and are something that painters were using in portraits long before photography was a popular pastime.

 

2. How Do I Create Them?

What light source you're using, how strong it is and how far it is from your subject will change the shape and size of the catchlight. The larger the light source, the bigger the catchlight will be and if you have multiple light sources, you can end up with more than one catchlight appearing on the eyes.

You can use artificial or natural light to create catchlights, just remember that direct flash will produce a much smaller catchlight than flash that's reflected off a brolly and if you're working outside, the catchlights can have a slight blue tint to them. When working indoors with fill-in light as well as a key / main light source, your additional, fill-in light may create an additional set of catchlights in your subject's eyes. Some people like the effect so if you're one of these, just make sure one is dimmer than the other so they're not too distracting. You can always try removing one set in your editing software too, but it's always easier to get it right in-camera first rather than relying on Photoshop.

 

 

3. Where To Position The Catchlights?

If you look at the eye as if it was a clock you should try and get the catchlight to sit, ideally, at 10 or 12 o'clock but anywhere between a quarter to and quarter past should work just as well. Of course, this isn't set in stone and you may prefer to use a lower position. Placing your light source above your subject's head will also help you get the positioning of the catchlights right.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

There is a switch on your telephoto lens that many photographers never touch. It sits in the bank of controls on the barrel, usually labeled something like FULL and 3 m to infinity, and it is one of the quickest things to check when you hit the most maddening autofocus problem there is: the lens racking back and forth through its focus range while the bird you wanted flies away. 

[Read More]

In my previous review of the Rogeti T32MAX With C32GK + RG-1, I highlighted its strengths as a well-designed, precision tripod that solved conventional issues I had long accepted as unavoidable compromises. While the T32Max excels in adaptability and modularity, it falls short for low-angle shooting because Rogeti chose to eliminate leg angle selectors to prioritize better overall stability. The only way to achieve low perspectives was to invert the entire center column, which can be cumbersome and slow in the field.

[Read More]

Twenty dollars can buy a film camera that shoots manual exposure, aperture priority, and autofocus, and it happens to be the same camera one longtime shooter started his whole film journey on. Film photography keeps pulling in new people every year, and picking a first camera without wasting money or ending up with a broken body is the hard part. 

[Read More]

Smartphone cameras are good enough now that the question for many casual photographers isn't whether their phone can take the photo, it's whether they should still bother owning a camera at all. The answer has less to do with sensors and lenses than most gear debates assume. 

[Read More]

Color grading gives you a quiet way to shift the mood of an image without wrecking it, and getting it wrong is how photos start looking fake. Two shots of the same bird, taken in different light, can end up looking like completely separate images unless you know how to steer the color. 

[Read More]

YouTube has terminated several established ASMR channels after determining that they linked viewers to material prohibited under its nudity and sexual-content policies. The enforcement action has alarmed creators who say they received little or no warning before losing channels that served as both long-running archives and major sources of income.

 

[Read More]

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

Aperture is very important when it comes to portraiture as it controls how much of the background and foreground is in focus, which has an effect on how much of the focus is on the subject of your portrait. 

 

1. Depth-Of-Field

There is an amount of front and back sharpness in front of and behind the main focus point of your image and this is referred to as the depth-of-field.

The amount of depth-of-field within an image depends on several factors:

• The distance between the camera and the subject - The closer the subject the more shallow the depth-of-field. With distant scenes, therefore, there is plenty of depth-of-field.
• Choice of lens aperture - The wider the lens aperture (ie /2.8, f/4) the shallower the depth-of-field, and the smaller the aperture (f/16, f/22) the greater the depth-of-field.
• Focal length - Contrary to popular belief a wide-angle lens does not give greater depth-of-field than a telephoto lens if the subject magnification is the same. You can test this for yourself. Take a frame-filling headshot with a wide-angle lens (you will have to get close to the subject, so warn them!) and then do the same frame-filling shot with a telephoto – this means backing away from the subject. Use the same aperture for both and you will see that the depth-of-field is the same.

Some cameras come equipped with a depth-of-field preview button, letting you see how much depth-of-field you have before taking the shot, but you can just experiment with depth-of-field and preview the shots on-screen to see what works best if your camera doesn't have this particular function. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

2. Photographing People

In terms of portraits, especially outdoors, wider lens apertures are often best because they throw the background nicely out of focus. How effective this is depends on the scene and focal length as well as aperture choice. If your subject is standing quite close to a distracting background even shooting at f/2.8 or f/4 will not throw the background out of focus but bringing the subject forward a couple of metres should work nicely.

If you do use a wide aperture for your portraits, do make doubly sure that the subject's eyes are in focus. With the shallow depth-of-field created by wide apertures, even a small error can mean unsharp eyes and you do not want that in your portraits.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

3. Bokeh Backgrounds

How the background is thrown out of focus depends on the lens. Bokeh is the term used to describe the pictorial quality of the out of focus blur. Lens design and aperture shape play a large part in how effective its bokeh is, so do try it with your own optics. A good test is shooting a close-up portrait outside against a background with some bright pinpoints of light, ie sun glinting off water, car lights, streetlamps etc.

Of course, you might prefer greater sharpness in your backgrounds and that is when small apertures are used. The important thing is to keep your eye on the background and if it looks messy or cluttered use wide apertures rather than small ones.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

ePHOTOzine members can enjoy exclusive savings on PortraitPro 24 from Anthropics Technology.

Edit whole shoots in just minutes. Highly rated by leading industry publications, PortraitPro 24 is the world’s first intelligent retouching software, powered by advanced Generative AI and smart tools for fast, professional results.

 

"It is in the creation of flawless skin and perfect make-up that PortraitPro excels."

Professional Imagemaker

 

 

Repair mouth and teeth with Generative AI, remove glasses reflections, recover blurry faces, and do lots more, in a fraction of the time.

 

"Anthropics PortraitPro offers photography editing tools that are easy to use and surprisingly effective."

Creative Bloq

 

 

Enhance your portrait work for pro-style portraits with powerful features:

 

Key New Features:

• New gender and age detector
• Mouth inpainting & teeth replacer
• Face recovery
• Skin and hair masks
• Glasses reflection remover

  Improved Workflow:

• Seamlessly switch between faces in group shots.
• Effortlessly share presets.
• Utilise a streamlined preset search box.
• Explore more image save options.
• (Exclusive to Studio Max) Apply multiple presets to each picture.

 

 

 

Turn hours of retouching into minutes. Try PortraitPro for free today.

The 50% OFF sale is on now, plus you'll get an EXTRA 40% OFF at checkout with your exclusive coupon code EPZSS. And, you'll receive a FREE SOFTWARE GIFT with any PortraitPro new purchase or upgrade.

Buy or Upgrade now.  Don't miss the huge discounts on our Bundles.

 

The ASUS Zenbook Duo is a laptop with two 14-inch OLED screens instead of one, and for six months it has been trying to solve the single thing I hate most about working away from my desk. I have never been able to edit on one screen. At home, there are two big panels in front of me, one for the image and one for everything else, I want the same on the go.  

[Read More]

In March 1981, an amateur wildlife photographer named Carl McCunn arranged to be flown deep into the Alaskan bush to spend the summer alone with his cameras. He brought 500 rolls of film, 1,400 pounds of provisions, two rifles, and a shotgun. He never secured a dependable way to get back out, and that failure turned out to be one of several.

[Read More]

The Fstoppers community is brimming with creative vision and talent. Every day, we comb through your work, looking for images to feature as the Photo of the Day or simply to admire your creativity and technical prowess. In 2026, we're featuring a new photographer every month, whose portfolio represents both stellar photographic achievement and a high level of involvement within the Fstoppers community. 

[Read More]

 

Waterfalls, the pools of water in front of them and streams will always be popular photographic subjects but just because everyone's taking photos of these photogenic landscape spots doesn't mean all of your shots have to be the same as the next photographer who comes along. With this in mind, let us share a few tips with you on how to shoot waterfall shots that have a bit of a twist. 

 

1. Capture More Close-Up Shots

 

Instead of capturing the whole scene why not focus on a small area of the waterfall. Focus on movement and colour rather than a landscape as a whole or use rocks that cause smaller cascades further downstream to fill your images with sharp shapes that contrast well against the smooth flow of water.  

 

2. Use Fast Shutter Speeds

 

When you think of waterfall images the shot of silky water cascading down rocks probably springs to-mind but there's no reason why you can't switch this around and capture a sense of motion and power. If you're working in aperture priority you can set a wide aperture (f/2.8 - 4) to get the quicker shutter speeds you need. You can also bump up your ISO to gain a faster shutter speed. To freeze movement you have to set a fast enough shutter speed to prevent the subject’s movement blurring as it moves across the sensor. What shutter speed you need will change depending on how fast the water is moving so experimentation is key but keeping the speed under one second should be a good starting point.

 

3. Go Abstract - Shoot Bubbles

 

At the foot of the waterfall or even further downstream you'll find water bubbles that can be captured and turned into abstract pieces for your wall. Please take care on slippery rocks and obviously take care of your kit. Remember to wipe it down after use and unless you are using a camera which is weather-resistant try not to stand in a spot where the spray will be a problem. Shoot plenty with fast shutter speeds and focus manually. For more tips on this subject, have a read of this: Why And How To Shoot Creative Abstract Photos Of Water Bubbles

Further downstream the currents of bubbles can be turned into spirals that decorate the surface of the water when shot with longer shutter speeds but try to not make the shutter speed too long as this will add too much blur and you'll lose definition. 

 

4. Head Out On 'Bad' Weather Days

 

Most of us aren't fans of rain and cloudy days but after a shower, foliage appears more vibrant and it'll help your image to really 'pop'. The contrast will be lower too which makes it easier to get the shot you want without having to worry about bracketing. Later in the year when frost and ice begin to make an appearance, you'll be able to capture shots with icicles decorating banks and if it's really cold, the waterfall may be frozen all together giving you the opportunity to capture a waterfall shot that's certainly different from the norm. Just remember to be careful when walking at the side of streams and rivers as surfaces will be slippery. 

 

5. Do A Black & White Conversion 

 

If you think your shot is lacking punch, apply a black & white conversion and you may be surprised with the results. The cascade of water will really stand out against darker, wet rocks and foliage, plus a black and white conversion can often add mood to a waterfall shot that wasn't there in the colour version. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

The JOYROOM PODIX 140W 5-Port Desktop GaN Charger is designed to eliminate your desktop's cable spaghetti. This compact cube offers five charging ports, including two built-in retractable USB-C cables, a 140 W total output, and a live LCD display showing real-time power draw per port. The unit keeps everything safe via its smart recognition and intelligent thermal control, all in something the size of a Rubik's Cube.

 

[Read More]

Premiere Pro can now bleep out swear words on its own, and that's just the first of several tools buried in the software that most editors have never touched. If you've been cutting video for years, some of these will still catch you off guard. 

[Read More]

Today, let’s get close. Like, really close, with the new Laowa Aksen Ultra Macro zooms. 

[Read More]

A 135mm f/1.8 that retails for under $1,000 is not something you expect to perform like a premium lens. The 7Artisans 135mm f/1.8 for L-Mount does exactly that, and it changes the math for anyone who has wanted this focal length but balked at the cost. 

[Read More]