Photography News

Choosing a telephoto lens usually means choosing between size, cost, and autofocus capability. The Kase 150mm f/5.6 autofocus mirror lens is trying to hit all three at once, and that's not something any lens has really pulled off before at this price point. 

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Portrait retouching is one of those skills where the gap between fast and good is enormous. Generative AI can fill in a blemish in seconds, but the moment you zoom in, the skin texture looks synthetic, the pores disappear, and the person starts to look like someone else entirely. 

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    It's well-known in the photography community that you can go to certain locations and expect to see tripod holes in the floor where photographer after photographer has set-up to capture a popular shot so how can we, as photographers, do something a little bit different? We answer this question, and more, below. 

 

1. What Gear Do I Need? 

1. Zoom lens - it's easier to carry just one lens
2. Support - A support that's lightweight and compact is easier to carry and this could be a tripod or monopod, depending on your preference. 
3. Camera bag - An everyday backpack which is strong, can carry various pieces of kit and is easy to access is perfect for this type of photography. A rucksack style distributes the weight of kit more evenly, which means you'll be more comfortable when walking for long periods of time. 

 

2. What Research Should I Do? 

Having a look through online photo galleries and in travel guides will give you an overall picture of how the landmark(s) you're planning on visiting have been captured before. You'll also be able to find out if there are any costs and the opening/closing times so you can plan your trip around the crowds of tourists that will no doubt flock to your photographic subject. When you arrive at your destination have a look around the tourist information office as you'll find plenty of postcards that feature photos of landmarks and other important buildings which can be a great source for shooting ideas.

 

 

3. Is Clichéd OK?

There are shots that every photographer and his dog have taken of well-known landmarks, but this doesn't mean you should avoid them. A good, postcard style shot of a landmark is something you should try and get early on in your trip then spend the rest of the hour, day or week looking for angles that mean the landmark is still recognisable but the shot you produce is slightly different to what someone would usually expect to see.

 

4. When Should I Plan My Visit For? 

The problem with landmarks is they're popular with tourists so unless you want them in the shot, you'll have to arrive early or stay late to avoid them. Of course, changing your angle or working a little closer to the structure will mean tourists become less of a problem. If it's a really busy day, including them in the shot can add an extra element of interest. Particularly if you use a slightly slower shutter speed to blur their movement around the bottom of the structure you're photographing. Just remember to carry your tripod as you will need it if you plan on playing with slower shutter speeds. Panoramas can work particularly well in busy places too. 

There's probably a couple of local landmarks that may not be as popular with the tourists but are important to the people who live there so consider capturing them too if you want to work somewhere that's slightly less busy.

 

 

5. How Can I Be Different? 

Use your feet and take a walk around to find a unique take on the landmark you're photographing. How does it look from underneath? Can you crouch down and shoot up? Or climb some steps or a hill that's close by to give you a little more elevation. Working from a slightly higher angle can help reduce the convergence you get when shooting tall structures too. When you've finished with the front of the structure have you ever considered photographing it from the back? No? Well, not many tourists do either so you'll be able to capture a unique photo.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

When you first think of transport photography you probably think of cars but trains, boats and planes are just as interesting and with the right planning, can be photographed. In this article, we list popular transport photography tutorials and offer a few tips on the gear you may want to consider using.

 

Photographing Cars - Gear Choices & Our Top Tutorials 

 

A standard lens is fine as you can move around the car to alter the angle and position. You'll also want to use a polarising filter to reduce reflections just remember shutter speeds will be slower so you may want to use a tripod.

• Five Ways To Take More Creative Shots Of Cars 
• How To Photograph Your Car Successfully 
• Tim Wallace's To Car Photography Tips

  Photographing Boats - Gear Choices & Our Top Tutorials 

 

A standard zoom of the 35-80mm range is fine, although you may prefer a longer lens 80-200mm if the boat is further away. Make sure you use a polarising filter to reduce reflections/deepen blue skies and pack a tripod but if you plan on taking your shots at the coast or will be walking along a canal for a lengthy period of time, a light-weight tripod that still offers good rigidity will be easier to carry, particularly after you've been walking for a while. 

• Everything You Need To Know About Boat Photography
• How To Take Good photos From A Boat
• More Boat Photography Tips 
   

Photographing Trains  - Gear Choices & Our Top Tutorials 

 

A lens with a focal length between 50mm and 100mm is ideal. Better still, use a zoom lens with a range that covers 28-105mm so you don't have to waste time changing lenses. For shots away from stations, use a tripod with a pan head to follow the train and on the platform use a monopod as they can get busy and you don't want to get in anyone's way.

• Steam Railway Photography Guide 

  Even More Top Transport Photography Tips 

 

If you want even more transport themed photography advice, we have 10 more top tips to help you take better photos of trains, planes, cars and other modes of transport.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition

Street photography can be intimidating for those of us who usually stick to nature. But after spending years shooting landscapes, I've realized that the transition to the city isn't really about learning new techniques. It's about realizing you already have most of the tools. 

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A photographer can shoot 30 weddings a year, stay booked months in advance, and still feel a quiet dread every time an unexpected expense hits the account. This advice-column piece tackles that disconnect — why so many working photographers are fully booked and still broke, and what actually fixes it. 

The Letter

Dear Lisa,

I feel ridiculous writing this because if you looked at my Instagram, you'd probably think I was doing really well.

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A while back, I made the mistake of comparing my old Polk TSi100 bookshelf speakers against much more expensive speakers. Somehow, my cheap speakers won. Now it's time for round two.  

In that first test, I preferred the Polk TSi100 speakers. So did everyone else who listened blind. Naturally, that made audiophiles angry. The main criticism was that I was using bookshelf speakers as near field computer speakers, and that I should be comparing them to proper studio monitors instead.

So that is exactly what I did.

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New AI software can now create incredibly accurate video from still images, and the Real Estate video market is about to change forever.  

For years, real estate video has followed the same formula. You show up with a camera, maybe a gimbal, maybe a drone, and you create a polished walkthrough of the property. You glide through the front door, pan across the kitchen, show off the pool, and end with a dramatic exterior shot. It has worked because there was no better option. This is now outdated. 

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Every January, the trend forecasts roll in. And every year for at least the last five, "authenticity" has appeared somewhere on the list, wedged between AI predictions and whatever retro aesthetic is cycling back. By now, it would be reasonable to dismiss it as an empty buzzword, the kind of thing that sounds important in a webinar and means nothing in practice. 

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Most of us know that shooting in a flat log picture profile will give you the highest quality video footage but the workflow has always been too difficult to deal with. I've created Fstoppers' LUTs for Sony cameras and a shooting and editing workflow that changes everything.  

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Choosing between the Canon EOS R6 Mark III and the Sony a7 V is one of the more genuinely difficult calls in full frame photography right now. These are the two cameras sitting at the top of the hybrid market, and the differences between them are real but subtle enough that the wrong choice is easy to make. 

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Color grading in Lightroom can be the difference between a photo that feels alive and one that falls flat. The color grading panel is one of the most powerful tools in Lightroom, but most people either skip it entirely or use it wrong. 

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One speedlight and a diffusion setup can go a long way toward producing a clean, versatile portrait. Knowing exactly how to position, power, and modify a single flash is the kind of skill that makes the difference between a shot that works for one purpose and one that works for a dozen. 

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The Viltrox TC 2.0 is the first third-party 2x teleconverter for Sony E-mount, and it cuts into Sony's own $600 option at just $280. That price gap alone is worth paying attention to, but the real question is whether the performance holds up. 

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1. Gear Suggestions

A long zoom lens will be handy as you'll be able to get close to the animals without having to climb into the enclosures. Something around the 70-300mm mark or bigger would be good. Also, consider taking a macro lens along as most zoos have enclosures where you can get close to insects.

A camera with a tilting LCD screen is perfect for zoo photography and you could take a monopod along to raise your camera up above the fences but leave your tripod at home as they don't mix well with crowds.

Pack a brolly as it will most likely rain at some point during your visit and have a lens cloth handy to wipe off raindrops that will blur your shot. As you have limited angles to work with you may have to shoot into the sun so a lens hood would be handy.

A polarising filter will be good when you're shooting through glass as it reduces reflections it will also reduce the amount of bounced light so the textures and tones in fur will stand out.

 

 

2. Weather

Pay attention to the weather forecast. When it's raining you'll get drenched kit and most animals will head indoors where you can take photographs, but you'll have glass and crowds in a small space to contend with. If it's gloriously sunny is maybe too bright and you'll get very harsh shadows. You can use fill-in flash but check before you do as it's often not allowed. You're better off sticking with natural light and increasing the ISO instead. Rain's too wet and the sun's too bright but an overcast day's just right. A slight covering of cloud acts like a softbox so you'll have images that have even tones and are well balanced.

 

3. Plan And Research

Before you set off, go on the zoo's website, find a map and make a plan. Arrive early to beat the rush and try walking around the opposite way to the crowds to give yourself chance to capture shots without the crush. Feeding times are great photographic opportunities but they're popular with visitors so arrive early.

 

 

4. Cages And Glass

Unfortunately, zoos are full of cages and there's nothing worse than shooting through wires and bars! Sometimes the gaps are just big enough to poke your lens through but if they're not, get as close to the fence as possible, position your lens so it's pointing through one of the gaps or, when the fence has small gaps, make sure that the face of the animal you're photographing is in a gap, use a wider aperture setting and wait for the animal to move back from the cage. This way the fence will be thrown our of focus so you, hopefully, won't even notice it. If you venture indoors you won't have fencers to contend with but glass full of greasy smudges will certainly be in your way. To minimise reflections attach a lens hood or hold your hand to the side or above the lens. If there's a lot of people touching the glass switch to a slower shutter speed to minimise shake. You may also need to switch to manual focus as cameras can be fooled by glass.

 

5. Find Good Shooting Spots & Angles

Make sure you take a walk around the edge of the enclosure before you take your photos to find shooting locations that won't leave your image with a distracting background or posts sticking out of the animal's head. Try to avoid shooting down as this can distort features instead get down low, to eye level if possible, to create a more dynamic shot. Use a wide lens setting and crop in later to make sure you don't amputate any limbs by accident – a shot of a monkey missing its tail is very can be very annoying to look at. Don't be afraid to fill the frame with your subject as this will give your shot more impact and it won't be so obvious that you took your photo at a zoo.

 

 

 

6. Focus And Shutter Speeds

Most of the animals won't stay still so use focus lock to prefocus on a certain point and take the shot as the animal enters the zone that's focused. Always focus on the eye and try using continuous shooting mode if you don't manage to get your subject in frame the first time. Try freezing their movement with a fast shutter speed and if you're panning, use a speed between 1/8sec to 1/30sec to blur the background but leave the animal sharp.

 

7. White Balance

Keep an eye on your white balance when going from indoor and outdoor enclosures and watch out for condensation when moving from the cooler outdoors into the tropical climate of a butterfly house. You'll need to give your camera time to acclimatise otherwise you'll end up with hazy, dream-like shots.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

I set out to photograph and light paint a mysterious, dilapidated homestead cabin in the Mojave Desert under moonlight. With nothing more than a flashlight and a single long exposure, I turned it into a glowing, cinematic scene. Here's exactly how I did it, and how you can too. 

I'll also discuss some of the issues one might run into while attempting to photograph this abandoned cabin. I did the entire photo in a single exposure, however.

But first, let's find out what "light painting" is.

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Imagine your editing workflow being enhanced by something that resembles the controllers you once played video games with. That, plus customizable efficiency, is what this editing console offers.

 

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Your camera has image stabilization. Your lens might, too. You also have a shutter speed dial that goes up to 1/8,000 of a second. Both of these tools fight blur, but they fight different kinds of blur, and mixing them up is one of the most common mistakes beginners make. 

Here is the distinction in one sentence: image stabilization compensates for your hands shaking. A fast shutter speed freezes your subject moving. They are solving two completely separate problems, and understanding which one you need in a given moment will immediately make your hit rate go up.

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Choosing between the Sony a7R VI and the a7 V isn't straightforward, even though one costs significantly more than the other. The sensor architecture, video specs, and body features differ in ways that could genuinely change which one makes sense for how you actually shoot. 

 

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There are photographs that seem to exist entirely on their surface. 

You look at them and everything is already there. A trailer, parked on a patch of dirt. A road cutting the foreground. Mountains in the distance. A sky that holds the whole thing together without insisting too much. And across the side of the trailer, a name stretched in bold letters, impossible to ignore.

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