Photography News

  Natural light is often the only light available to us when we are out shooting. But far from being an untameable beast, there are several ways that you can control it to achieve your desired photo.   1. Pay Attention To How It 'Looks'

A scene can look very different depending on what time of day you're looking at it. For this reason, when possible, it's worth visiting a location at various points a day or so before you want to take your photos as this will give you the opportunity to judge when it looks at its best. Of course, this isn't always possible but a little research on the internet may uncover some information on your chosen location you can use to your advantage.

Don't always think you have to shoot in the 'golden hours' either as you some subjects, such as close-up work for creating textures, look better when photographed at other points during the day. Having said that, early morning or late sun can transform a scene which appears flat and not very inspiring during the middle of the day. 
 

2. Light Direction

By changing your shooting position or moving your subject (if possible) you can alter the direction the light falls. The relationship between the direction of light and your subject is important as it can change your image from a good shot to a great one. Think about light direction when setting up and decide if front, side or backlight is perfect for the scene. Side lighting often produces the best highlights and shadows which is key for giving shots a dimensional feel. 

 

 

3. Reflect Light

Reflectors come in many shapes, sizes and colours. Predominantly though they are white, silver or gold and each type of colour will reflect light slightly differently. White reflectors are a safe bet but if you want a brighter light, use a silver reflector, while gold ones produce a warmer light. 

Why do you need to use a reflector? Well, it's a simple and reasonably inexpensive way to bounce light where it's needed. Try not to hold the reflector too low and remember that light will bounce back off a reflector at the same angle it hit it at. Also, the closer the reflector is to your subject, the stronger the light reflecting off it will be. 
 

4. Diffuse Light 

When working indoors with window light, curtains can be used as barn doors or flags to control the 'spill' of the light and a net or something similar can be used to diffuse and soften the light.  

If you're working outdoors ask your subject to move into a shaded area where the light will be more even and as a result, your portrait will be more flattering. 

 

 

 

5. Post Processing

Even though we strive to get everything right in camera, often shots need a slight tweak during post-production to balance the tonal range. We know this isn't about working with natural light when out in the field but it's about making the natural light balance correctly throughout the image. 
 

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A day out at the coast gives you a good excuse to get your camera out of its bag. It doesn't matter if you're going on a family day-trip or with a group of fellow photographers as you'll be able to capture a decent amount of imagery with whoever you go with, although your family probably won't want to see you looking down your view-finder all of the time!

In this article, we list 10 popular photography tutorials which are all about taking photos at the coast as well as offer some advice on what gear you might want to consider packing next time you head for the beach.

 

1. Beach Photography Tips - 5 Top Ways To Shoot Beach-Themed Images

 

2. Photography Tips For Shooting At The Coast  As And After The Sun Has Set 

 

  3. Tips And Kit Suggestions For Photographing Piers At The Coast 

 

4. Edwin Brosens Shares His Top Tips On Capturing Seascapes

 

 

5. Coastal Compact Camera Close-Up Photography Tips

 

6. Step Down Onto The Sand And Under The Pier For A Spot Of Pier Photography

 

7. How To Capture Lighthouse Landscape Shots On Your Coast Visit

    8. Top Flotsam Photography Tips For You To Read

  9. Five Tips To Improve Your Coastal Landscape Shots

 

10. Ten Top Tips To Help You Improve Your Seaside Photography

 

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Somewhere in every beginner photography forum, someone posts their first edited photo and asks for feedback. And somewhere in the replies, someone says: "You should really learn Photoshop." The implication is that Lightroom is training wheels, that serious photographers use Photoshop, and that the beginner will not produce professional-quality work until they learn layers, masks, blend modes, and frequency separation. 

That advice made sense in 2012. In 2026, it is actively counterproductive for most photographers.

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There is no shortage of talented photographers. Every year, more people buy a camera, launch a website, announce their new business, and genuinely believe they are about to build something sustainable. Many of them never do. 

That's not because photography is impossible to make money from, or because the market is completely saturated, or because only a lucky few can succeed. Most photography businesses fail for much simpler reasons: weak foundations, poor pricing, inconsistent marketing, avoidable burnout, and a misunderstanding of what clients are actually paying for.

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Most photographers hit a wall where their shots feel technically fine but visually flat. Knowing why that happens is the first step to fixing it, and a handful of specific, repeatable mistakes are almost always responsible. 

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Infrared photography turns familiar landscapes into something almost otherworldly, with blown-out white foliage, dark skies, and a contrast you simply can't replicate in post.  

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Fujifilm's GFX system produces some of the most detailed, tonally rich files available to working photographers today, and the lens lineup is both the system's greatest strength and its most significant financial commitment. After six years of building out a GFX kit, Samuel Elkins has opinions on what actually earns its place in the bag and what doesn't. 

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The Fujifilm X-E5 is a compact, rangefinder-style APS-C camera with a 40-megapixel sensor, in-body stabilization, and a $1,700 body-only price tag. That combination sounds compelling on paper, but the real question is whether the image quality holds up when you push past the base ISO. 

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Is the old way of retouching dead? With various AI plugins, the world of classical retouching is definitely changing. Recently, I tried out Retouch4Me and some of their plugins, and these are my thoughts as a working pro on whether it is something that would fit into my workflow or not, as well as where it excels and where I find it to struggle more. Retouch4Me has a suite of different plugins across frequency separation, dodging, burning, healing, cloning, fabric removal, dust removal on a backdrop, and many more. 

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Have you ever dreamed of stumbling across a Rolleiflex for $180, or a Widelux for $1,400? 

 

These are exactly the kind of deals waiting for you at Karachi's Hakeem Centre in Pakistan, as captured by Karl Rock in this incredible video.

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As we dream of jetting off to warmer climates in search of sea, sun and some scenic shots to photograph, we thought we'd put together a collection of top travel tutorials you really should have a look at before you head off with your case packed and photographic gear ready.

 

1. How To Improve Your Travel Photography Portraits Instantly

We share our tips on how to successfully photograph the people who live in the place you're travelling to with kit advice, tips on framing and more. 

  2. Six Awesome Travel Food Photography Tips For That Perfect Instagram Shot

As well as portraits and shots of beaches why not take a few photos of the plates of food you purchase? After all, getting your smartphone out before you chow down is the normal thing to do nowadays, isn't it?

 

3. How To Photograph Ruins in 5 Easy Steps

Historical ruins such as churches, castles and abbeys decorate our countryside and seaside towns but you'll also find a few smaller, but still impressive ruins closer to home. Walls, arches and columns are still dotted around a few towns and villages which are still photogenic even if there's not much of the structure left to photograph. If you're off on your travels, have a look online and at local tourism centres to find out what ruins are near to where you're staying.

 

 

 

4. How To Keep Shooting During Those Hot, Sunny Days

If you're heading off on holiday here are a few tips to help you keep taking photos when it's hot outside. Plus, as well as looking after your gear, don't forget to look after yourself. It may seem obvious now, but it's easy to get away with taking photos and the small things such as reapplying sunscreen and having a drink of water can be forgotten.

 

5. Ten Safety Tips For When Traveling With A Camera 

Here's a quick list of quick but essential tips to help you keep your camera safe while on holiday. 

 

6. Learn To Convey A Sense Of Place And Culture With Your Travel Shots

When shooting travel images, as well as showing people back home that you had a really great time and that it was sunny every day, try capturing shots that convey a sense of place and culture as well. 

 

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In most cases, when manufacturers moved from DSLRs to mirrorless cameras, this also meant a new mount to accommodate the reduced back focus distance. No longer did lenses have to be designed with the DSLR mirror box in mind. The main consequence is that we might be left with an impressive collection of fine DSLR lenses with a dwindling supply of new bodies to use them with. As technology developed further, we would need new lenses along with the resulting expense. The answer is, of course, a lens adapter, enabling the old lenses to be used on the new cameras. Ideally, that would include transmission of data and full operation of AF and exposure information.

The Canon solution is the EF-EOS R AF Mount Adapter, at a price as we might expect. Enter Meike, with their own version of the adapter range, plus quite a few additional filters of their own. The Meike adapter range is much more affordable, and Meike has a growing and impressive reputation for efficient, well made kit, so this makes a very interesting proposition.

Armed with the 26MP Canon EOS RP body plus the very fine Canon EOS EF 50mm f/1.8 lens, let's see how the Meike adapter brings these two together.

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Handling and Features

The version of the adapter provided for review is the MK-EFTR-C, with a drop-in filter facility and two drop-in filters provided. These are the V-ND, a variable neutral density filter, plus a clear filter. Including the V-ND, the adapter weighs in at a featherweight 136.8g. Dimensions are a trim 73.0mm x 24.7mm. 

There are electronic connections and AF is fully supported. It is quite clear that the adapter is very well made, from the look and feel of the components to the smooth action when bayoneting either lens to the adapter or the adapter to the R body. Although tempting perhaps to think an adapter contributes little of its own and is just an interface, in fact, there is much more to it than that. Apart from the need for precision in manufacture, of which more in a moment, there is the need for rapid AF performance and correct transmission of EXIF and other data.

 

 

To ensure absolute precision in the connection of the lenses, a couple of shims are provided and these can be used if the tolerances should happen to be slightly out. There was no evidence of that, so they were not needed, but it's good to know that should it be necessary, the point is well covered.

There are several versions of the Meike adapter. The one provided for the review is the MK-EFTR-C, which includes a drop-in filter V-ND plus a clear filter. V-ND is a variable neutral density filter ND-3 to ND-500 mounted in a beautifully designed drop-in system that is compatible with the original Canon version. There is also available an MK-EFTR-B, which is a version with the control ring. A third option is MK-EFTR-CPL, with a drop in polarising filter. The plastic case for the storage of filters not in use is another design gem. This all adds up to a very efficient way of storing and changing filters. This is so much easier than using screw in front filters and, of course, also means just one set of filters regardless of the lens in use. 

 

 

Rotating filters are especially easy to use, as a small wheel is provided that enables adjustment. The obvious application would be the polariser, or as in the case of the version provided, a variable ND. This also extends to a whole series of filters from Meike and the leaflet provided in the box lists some 22 options. Admittedly, these are mostly various ND filters, plus the variable ND, the clear filter and the C-PL. The “Creative filters” include various star, streak and rainbow effects.

However, the basic application is, of course, the ability to use Canon EF and EF-S lenses on the new Canon R bodies, specifically EOS-R, RP, R5, R6, R7, R10, C70 and Red Komodo. Let's now have a look at how the adapter performs in use and see whether we have a viable and reliable alternative to the Canon original product.

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Performance

First job is to align the correct colour of dot with the EF (red) or EFR-S (white) index on the mount, and the lens smoothly clicks into place. The fitting end of the adapter, with its generous seal, offers a moisture and dust resistant interface with the camera body. After that, we can use our EF or EF-S lenses as they were intended, and of course, there are many fine lenses that have long working lives ahead of them yet.

The drop-in filter system is magnificent, so easy to use and such an excellent idea. The filters themselves do not seem to create any CA effects, perhaps the very slightest sign of an increase in fringing at the mid point of the V-ND, but even then very difficult to induce. As we rotate the V-ND, the colour balance does not seem to be severely affected, certainly not in any way that is obvious to the eye, although a slight shift might be expected at high values approaching the maximum.

AF operation is also unimpaired and the camera operates just as it would normally be expected to.

The instructions suggest that the filter should be removed before installing on the camera, something that might easily be forgotten. The idea that a filter should always be installed is a more obvious one. Failing to do this would result in light leaking in to the side of the lens, running the risk of creating flare effects.

 

MEIKE Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Sample Photos Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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  Value For Money

The kit as provided, the [AMUK]Meike MK-EFTR-C Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter|Meike+MK-EFTR-C+Drop-in+Filter+Mount+Adapter[/AMUK] with V-ND and Clear filters, is priced at £135.99.

There are other kit versions:

• [AMUK]MK-EFTR-B with Control Ring|Meike+MK-EFTR-B[/AMUK], £79.99
• [AMUK]MK-EFTR-CPL Circular Polarising Filter for MK-EFTR-C|Meike+MK-EFTR-CPL[/AMUK], £55.99
• [AMUK]MK-EFTR-VND Variable ND filter|Meike+MK-EFTR-VND[/AMUK], £55.99

To put this in perspective, some Canon original options:

• Canon mount adapter with control ring, £239
• Canon drop-in filter mount adapter with C-PL filter A, £359
• Canon drop-in filter mount adapter with V-ND filter A, £499

Those figures are pretty dramatic and in terms of pricing the Meike looks very attractive indeed.

 

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Verdict

Meike is pitching in here with an excellent product at a very attractive price point compared to the OEM version from Canon. There may be those who, regardless, will always opt for the manufacturer's original version for any and all accessories, and that's fair enough, although we know it comes at a price. Manufacturers such as Meike compete with keen pricing, but at a quality level that does the job and does it well. The irony is that often the after market items have features that extend and even improve on the original. Meike is a manufacturer that does this very well, and this latest adapter is a great example of a really well designed and manufactured item that can hold its head high, at a price level that brings it into range for many more photographers.

The Meike adapter is Highly Recommended.

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Pros

• Very well designed and made
• Efficient and reliable operation
• Keenly priced
• Enables full use of DSLR lenses on mirrorless bodies
• Moisture and dust resistance

 

Meike Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter MK-EFTR-C Cons

• Some slightly fiddly instructions re shims, should they be needed

 

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Photography publications, this one included, spend a lot of time telling you why a dedicated camera is worth buying. And it is. The sensor is bigger, the lenses are interchangeable, the depth of field is real rather than simulated, and the raw files give you editing latitude that phone JPEGs cannot touch.  

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    It's coming up to that time of year when many families start to think about jetting off to warmer climates or simply heading to the Britsh coast to escape reality for a while. An accessory that's guaranteed to be packed is a camera but instead of just capturing shots of family members in pools and on the beach, why not turn your attention to food photography and capture some mouth-watering images of the plates you're served and stalls you pass on trips. 

 

1. Where Will You Be Taking Your Photos? 

Where you're working can sometimes determine what equipment you can use. If you're in a busy restaurant there's probably not room for a tripod so you'll have to work hand-held or use a smaller support that can fit on the table. But if you're out in the street photographing food stalls and the people who run them, they'll be more room to use a tripod, although if you plan on moving around a lot, you'll probably better taking a monopod with you as they're easier to walk with and take up less room.
 

2. Think About Presentation 

Restaurants want to impress you so food is, generally, presented and displayed well already which means you don't have to play the role of the designer. Do look out for attractive produce though, particularly if you're at a hotel where you can serve yourself. Make sure fruit isn't bruised and colours are vibrant. If you're photographing meat make sure it's not overcooked and lookout for herbs and pepper grinders as a sprinkling of pepper or a few green leaves can make your photograph looking more appetising. Also, look out for crumbs and sauce that may be sat on the side of the plate as this can distract the viewer.

 

 

3. Consider Using Repetition 

If you can pick your own food, repetition works well and three items on a plate will often look better than two. Don't think you always have to centre your subject and if you're working with tall items such as ice creams and coffees in glasses, switch your orientation to portrait.

  4. Backgrounds Shouldn't Distract

Try and keep your background uncluttered but if you're in a busy restaurant where this isn't possible, just use a wide aperture to throw the background out of focus or you could try placing a plain jacket/cloth over a chair and positioning so it sits in the background of your shot. If the chairs are too low use the back of a menu, so long as it's plain, as your background, placing it behind your plate. If it's coloured make sure there's no colour cast on your food/plate, particularly if the crockery is white and a shallow depth of field will help keep all attention on the food in the foreground of your shot.

Don't forget to take some wider shots of the serving area too. In hotels particularly you'll find several buffet carts, chefs preparing food and guests deciding what to eat which can make interesting shots. 

 

 

5. Stick To Natural Light

Use natural light where possible so if you can pick where you sit, choose a window seat or better still, sit outside. You need to avoid using direct flash as your food won't look very appetising so make sure you've switched it off, particularly in low light situations where some flashes will automatically fire.

 

6. Get Out On The Street 

Away from restaurants, you can find small stalls, especially in markets, that make and sell food. If you want to snap a few shots of the stallholder it can help if you actually show some interest in the food they are producing. It's not always advised to eat the food they're cooking but you can ask them questions and spend some time actually appreciating their skill. If you're working close up never shoot without asking permission first and if they say no, just move on to another stall instead of arguing with them. For those who do agree, fill the frame with their face as you'll find they'll create plenty of interesting expressions when concentrating on getting their creation perfect.

If your subject is working under a canopy your camera can get confused by the brighter space that surrounds them and your shot can end up a little dark. If this is the case, just lock your exposure and recompose the shot.

 

If the weather's not playing ball or you're on a street that's shaded from the sun don't be tempted to use your flash as this can destroy the feeling/atmosphere you're trying to create. Just try using a wider aperture or a higher ISO and if you find the higher ISOs make your shot a little grainy, try turning the shot black and white as it can work rather well.

Another option is to use a tripod and slower shutter speeds which will blur the movement of anyone who passes through your shot, however, if you're focusing on someone who is moving between a chopping board and a stove, the blur can emphasise the speed they're working at. The slower shutter speeds can also be used to capture a few closer shots of flames, just make sure you don't burn yourself and don't catch any hot plates and pans by mistake.
 

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You feel it, or you don't. There's no middle ground.  

I didn't become a football photographer by chasing the perfect action shot. I became one by putting myself where things are unstable, emotional, unpredictable—where football stops being a sport and turns into something else entirely. Something human. Something where the emotions are the real goal for a photographer like me.

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Photoshop's latest update quietly added two masking features to Adobe Camera Raw that most people haven't noticed yet. If you shoot anything with a complex edge, like trees against a bright sky, these tools change how you handle exposure and color adjustments. 

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Street photography is one of the hardest genres to stay sharp at if you only do it occasionally. Rust sets in fast, and when you're dropped into a busy city with a camera, the gap between what you see and what you capture can feel enormous. 

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Broadcasting an NBA game takes more gear than you'd probably guess, and the skill required to operate it is even more surprising. The broadcast setup for a single playoff game involves dozens of cameras, miles of cable, and a live production that makes Hollywood look slow. 

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Choosing between a budget telephoto zoom and a pro-grade lens isn't always obvious, and the answer depends on more than just image quality. This video makes the case that spending four times more doesn't automatically mean getting four times more usefulness, especially when your shooting style may not demand what the expensive glass actually offers. 

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Tadpoles tend to be more prevalent at this time of year and, as they take about 12 weeks or so to become froglets, it's a good time to take some photographs.

 

1. What Gear Do I Need? 

A macro lens of 90 to 100mm is perfect, providing you have access to get close to the surface of the water. If not you will need a longer lens with a close focus facility. A tripod is handy to keep the camera steady as you take the photo, but you'll need one that has legs that splay out so you can get the camera closer to the pond's surface when using a macro lens. It's also better if the centre column swivels over 90-degrees to act as a macro arm so you can position the camera over the water's edge and not at an angle. It may be easier to lay down on the floor (use a waterproof sheet to keep you dry) and use your arms as support. A polarising filter will reduce any surface reflections allowing you to see more clearly under the water.

 

2. Follow One Tadpole

Tadpoles tend to be quite active but move around in spurts. One minute they stop to presumably rest and then swim off to another spot. When they're active you need to hone in on one and follow it around, taking shots as it rests. Use a fast shutter speed to prevent tail blur, and increase the ISO if you need a smaller aperture.

Also, watch for tadpoles taking in air - they swim quickly to the surface and gulp air in. At this point, you can get a head-on shot with mouth wide open, but you often have to be quick as it's fast action.

 

3. Make It Easy For Yourself

Look around the edges of the pond for the easiest shots. It's here where the tadpoles will be feeding off vegetation around the side of the pond, especially when they have no legs as they are not yet meat-eaters.  In the shot above the tadpole was slowly pecking away at the edge of the pond causing debris to burst back. This microscopic activity comes to life when a macro lens is at its extended range.

If the sun is out, make sure you don't get the distracting rim where the water touches the side. This will appear as a white burnt out outline. Take the shots slightly away from the edge pointing inwards to conceal this outline. Shoot when the tadpoles are nearer to the surface to prevent the cloudy water making the image look dark.

4. Older Tadpoles

When the tadpoles have legs they become carnivorous (meat-eaters) so you can pop the odd worm, snail or piece of chicken in and watch them gather around in a feeding frenzy.
 

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