Photography News

The Panasonic Lumix TZ300 lands in a market where its closest rivals are seven years old and increasingly hard to find. Whether that makes it a smart buy or a missed opportunity depends on which tradeoffs you're willing to live with. 

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Shooting film for a decade gives you a clear view of what separates a polished image from one that looks like it came from a beginner. The culprit is almost never the camera or the film stock itself; it's a handful of repeatable mistakes that are completely fixable once you know what to look for. 

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  Macro and close-up photography allows us to see the world from a different viewpoint and sometimes, shots can be almost magical with what they unveil. Plus, with so many subjects waiting to be captured, you really can put your macro photography skills to the test and, you don't have to venture much further than your own garden either.    To get you started, here are our 10 top tips on capturing images with close-up/macro lenses.  [HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]  1. Make Sure Your Subject Is Perfect

 

When you're working at such close focusing distances any imperfections become more noticeable and they can end up distracting the viewer or spoiling what could be an excellent shot. However, taking the time to look at your subject, making sure the butterfly you're photographing doesn't have a damaged wing or your fungi specimen isn't dirty or had a bite taken out of it, will mean you won't be disappointed when you review your shots on your computer once home.

2. Get Up Early

 

Not everyone's a fan of early starts but if you want to shoot macro photography out in the field, it's something you should get used to doing. Some subjects tend to be less active in the morning, especially when it's still a little chilly, making them easier to photograph and plants, flowers and other foliage are less likely to have had a bite taken out of them early on, too. Mornings can bring a sprinkling of dew which adds another level of interest to your shots and morning light is softer and warmer too.
 

3. Try Backlighting

 

Low, morning light makes it easier to backlight your subjects which can give your macro shots an interesting twist. Objects which are slightly translucent such as leaves, flower petals and butterfly wings look really good when light shines through them from the back. Keep a close eye on your shots though as the light levels can fool your camera into thinking the scene's too bright and it will underexpose the shot. If you do have problems just use exposure compensation to fix it.
 

4. Switch To Manual Focus

 

When working close to a subject, autofocus tends to end up searching backwards and forwards for something to focus on. Eventually, it may focus on the right point but it's much quicker to switch over to manual where you'll be able to focus more precisely. If you're not used to using manual focus it can take a little bit of practice but if you try shooting flowers, fungi and other objects which are less likely to fly or runoff, you don't have to rush so can take your time in getting your focusing spot-on. Then, once you're used to working manually, move on to more tricky subjects such as insects and other wildlife.
 

5. Try Pre-Focusing

 

Some macro subjects such as insects move fast and scare easily so pre-focusing your lens before they come into frame can increase your chances of capturing a good shot. Find something that's of a similar size of your subject and position it the same distance away as your subject will be when it lands.

 

6. Pack A Polarising Filter

 

A polarising filter can be fitted to a lens to ensure the colours captured are the same as the real thing, giving your shots more punch in the process. Attaching a polarising filter to your lens will slow your shutter speeds down, however, so make sure you're using a tripod to stop shake which can spoil your shot when working hand-held.
 

7. Avoid Shake

 

Camera shake is more noticeable when working close to your subject so always use a tripod. If you have one, use a remote release to fire the shutter button so you don't have to touch the camera or if you don't have one, use the camera's self-timer or your Smart Device if you have a camera that'll allow you to control it this way. Making sure your image stabilisation is on and using quicker shutter speeds, which you can get by switching to a higher ISO if you're working in low light, will help keep movement to a minimum but it's still best to fasten your camera to a tripod.
 

8. Windy Days Are Your Enemy

 

As already mentioned, any movement in the frame is exaggerated when working at such close focusing distances so what may seem like a small breeze to you can look like a strong, winter gale blowing through your image.

You can hold your subject in place with plamps etc. or if you're patient, just wait for the wind to stop blowing. You can also try and shelter the plant you're photographing with a make-shift shield. Card works well but if you're out in the field try using your camera bag or even your own body to shield your subject from the wind. Also, using a slightly quicker shutter speed will freeze motion but this isn't always possible, especially when working in darker locations such as woods.
 

9. Get In Close Then Add Some Space

 

By isolating part of a flower, insect or leaf you can create strong, abstract shots. So find detail that interests you and really zoom in close, filling the frame with striking shapes and interesting patterns.

Don't forget to try the opposite too so your subject has some space to 'breath'. Why? Well, it can help give your image context as well as create a sense of scale in your shot. Do keep your background simple if you do this though as you don't want it to distract from your main subject.
 

10. Light Your Shot Well

 

Where possible, try to use natural light, however, there are times when this isn't possible such as working in the woods where light levels are lower or when you're working with subjects that move quickly.

Rather than using your camera's built-in flash which is harsh and often too direct, try using a ring flash which can give a more even spread of light. Watch out for overexposed 'hotspots' appearing on your subject and when using natural light, make sure your own shadow isn't caught in-frame. You may also need to use a reflector to bounce much-needed light into dark areas of the shot. You can buy reflectors, but one made from a piece of card and silver foil can work just as well.
 

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Handholding a long telephoto lens is one of the fastest ways to come home with a memory card full of soft, blurry shots. Even small movements get amplified at long focal lengths, and if your technique is off, no amount of image stabilization will fully bail you out. 

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Motion, movement and action are wide and varied photographic subjects and as a result, there are many ways a photographer can create a sense of action, motion or movement in their shots. ePHOTOzine has written many tutorials that cover motion/action in some shape or form and as a result, we've decided to group the most popular tutorials together so you can find all of the inspiration you need in one place. 

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Our 10 Top Action, Movement & Motion Photography Tutorials:

 

1. A - Z Of Light Trail Photography Tips

Night + city = the perfect opportunity to capture light trails. Plus, you get to practise your long exposure photography technique while shooting the colourful lines created by traffic weaving through the city streets. 

 

2. Tips To Help You Shoot Sharp Action Shots

When it comes to action and sports photography, one of the main problems you face is your subject moves quick and they don't tend to stay in the same place for very long. As a result, it can be a bit of a challenge to try and get a sharp photo where your subject is in focus, however, there are a few things you can do to capture your moving subject perfectly.

 

3. Tips On Shooting Water Sports Photography

 

Head to the coast on a sunny day or even to your local reservoir and you'll probably find someone skimming along the water, holding onto a sail fasted to a windsurf board or getting pulled along by a boat on a board. The pros make it look easy and their jumps, turns and sheer speed make water sports a great photographic subject.

 

4. How To Capture The Action At Running Events

 

Many sports take place some way from the spectators which makes taking decent pictures without long lenses a challenge. However, accessible sports photography comes in the form of road running events. Something which can be captured right up and down the country. Plus, good action shots can be captured with modest gear at local events because you just stand by the roadside - often there are no barriers or anything to get in the way.  

 

5. 7 Top Tips On Using Blur To Create A Sense Of Action In Your Photos

 

Contradictory to what you're told when you first pick up a camera, it is OK to have blur, and quite a lot of it, in your shots when you're photographing the right subject and want to emphasise speed or create a sense of motion. When we say it's OK we don't just mean a shot you accidentally took out of focus will pass off as something creative, you have to deliberately adjust your camera's settings or know how a quick twist of your lens will give you the blur that's needed to add a sense of action to your shot.

 

6. Photographing Fairground Rides At Night

 

If you want to shoot general wide shots of the fair then head out just as the lights are coming on when there's still a touch of colour in the sky. That way you'll be able to get the lights, stalls and other foreground interest of the fair set against a deep blue sky. Leave the flash at home though as it can kill the atmosphere you're trying to create. For more abstract images, wait until the sky's a little darker and turn the rides into streams of light patterns. Look for rides that spin quickly or are bursting with colour as these tend to produce the better results. 

 

7.  Top Long Exposure Subjects For You To Photograph

 

See how long exposures can turn what can be described as ordinary into something much more interesting. From atmospheric shots to northern lights and, of course, blurry water, plenty of topics are covered in this tutorial. 

 

8. Waterfall Photography Tips: 3 Ways To Photograph Waterfalls

 

When it comes to photographing waterfalls, you can either capture the power and intensity of every cascade or you can slow things down and make the movement the focus of your photo.

 

9. 10 Top Tips On Adding Blur To Water For A Creative Effect

 

Love it or loathe it, blurred water can look great in the right situation so it is always worth a try. For those who are new to the technique, here are 10 tips to get you started in turning even small cascades can look like raging torrents. 

 

10. 5 Top Ways You Can Add Creative Movement To Your Landscape Shots

 

The idea of movement isn't usually a thought that first springs to mind when you try to describe what a landscape shot is. However, when you start to think of popular landscape topics such as waterfalls, rivers, trees, clouds and the sea, you suddenly realise movement, which makes shots more dynamic, crops up more often than you think.

 

Bonus Top List: Best Action And 360 VR Cameras

To help you capture all of the action, an Action or 360 camera might be useful and as there are so many action cameras available, we've put a handy guide together which talks you through action cam features as well as what's currently available on the market. 

 

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Hohem, a global leader in intelligent imaging and stabilization technology, has long focused on empowering creators through precision engineering and smart design. They are also among the first to pioneer AI tracking in gimbal technology. The latest Hohem iSteady MT3 and MT3 Pro represent the brand's vision of an all-rounder, multipurpose gimbal designed for professionals who need flexibility across different shooting scenarios. 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Mike43 (Day 21 - Rivers & Waterfalls).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 15

Spring Landscapes

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Day 16

Small Mammals

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Day 17

Towns At Night

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  Day 18

Macro Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|89636|3848619[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 19

Low Light Photography

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Day 20

Moon

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|115557|2814423[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 22

Seascapes

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Day 23

Faces

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

Simplicity has an undeniable charm, especially when it comes to setting up for filming. This new, thoughtfully designed wireless microphone from Saramonic offers exactly that. 

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Just when you thought Thunderbolt™ 4 was fast, here comes the new generation that takes it further. UGREEN's new docking stations offer to upgrade your workflow if you're up for it. 

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If you're new to photography, you might feel overwhelmed by the variety of settings and controls on your camera. But don't worry, there are only a few you actually need to worry about.  

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Most photographers spend years building an archive worth protecting, but very few have a plan for what happens to it after they die. Copyright, physical media, cloud accounts, and stock licensing don't sort themselves out automatically, and without a plan, decades of work can vanish or get tied up in legal chaos. 

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With good cameras becoming more reasonably priced and nearly all phones having one built-in, photography's something that most people can now easily dabble in. Even though this is true, there are still people out there, kids for example, who haven't picked up a camera before and need a little guidance. So, that brings us on to our ten basic photography tips to teach someone new to photography.

1. Hold The Camera Correctly

This may seem like a really obvious thing to be telling someone, but camera shake, which can occur when you're not holding the camera correctly, is a problem those who are new to photography face. In fact, those who use mobile phones to take photos and hold one hand out while trying to press the shutter button will know all too well how it can result in blurry, wonky shots. To stop this, hold your camera/smartphone with two hands, quite close to your body, position your feet shoulder-width apart to give yourself a more stable base to shoot from.
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If you're using the LCD to compose your shot don't stick your arms out too far in front of you and keep your arms/elbows tucked in when possible.

Before you take your shot, make sure your fingers aren't over the flash (if using it) or blocking the lens and keep a firm grip of your camera but don't squeeze too tightly as you can cause the camera to move, resulting in shake.
 

2. Support

Having your arms tucked close to your sides and standing as still as possible will stop any blur caused by movement from spoiling your shot. Don't move your camera/phone away as soon as you've clicked your shutter button either as shutter lag can mean your camera's still processing the shot so you'll end up with a blurry photo of another part of the scene rather than the person or object you want a photo of.

Using a tripod will keep the camera still and help keep shake to a minimum. There are various light-weight, easy to use models which are designed to be used with smaller cameras.

If you don't have a tripod, use a nearby solid object as a support or lean against a wall, tree or whatever object you can find that won't move. 
 

3. Breathing

Being conscious of your breathing can further minimise shake. Some suggest taking a deep breath, holding it, taking your shot and exhaling while others prefer to do it the other way around. It's not something that's recommended for very long exposures though!

4. Hold The Camera Straight

Check the framing of your shot before hitting the shutter button as having a photo where it looks like everything's about to slide out of frame's easily done. Having said that, there are times when shooting on an angle can work really well but most of the time, you'll want your horizons to be straight. Using a tripod can help as some models have built-in spirit levels which can tell you when the tripod's not straight. There are the occasions where the spirit level will tell you the shot's wonky but your eye will know different so trust your instincts on these occasions.

 

5. Different Modes

Camera modes are there to help you capture the best possible images you can so learn what they're for and switch to them when needed. There's also aperture and shutter priority which give you more control over how your camera takes photos and are a great way to start your journey into the manual world. For more tips take a look at these tutorials:

• Camera Modes
• Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority

As well as using different modes for different situations, have a go at shooting from different angles and positions too.

 

 

6. Shutter Button

Don't be too heavy-handed with the shutter button as this can cause the camera to move which can mean you end up with a slightly blurred shot.

Another important thing to learn about the shutter button is that it can be pressed halfway to focus your shot. This can be used in all shooting situations but is particularly important for shots where your camera doesn't know what your main focus point is and as a result, you end up with blur in the wrong part of the shot. An example of this would be when you position your subject to the left or right of the shot, leaving more space towards the centre and opposite side. As your subject is off-centre your camera may not think they're what you want to focus on and as a result, they'll be blurry while you'll have a background that's nicely in focus. However, using focus lock (half-pressing the shutter) will stop this from happening. Have a look at our previous tutorial for more tips on how to use this: Focus Lock.

7. Backgrounds

Check the background for unsightly items and objects sticking out of your subject's head. If you're not planning on throwing your background out of focus (some drive modes do this automatically) so it's blurred, make sure it's not too distracting or cluttered.

 

8. Fill The Frame

Use the optical zoom on your camera to bring your subject closer, filling the frame and creating more interest. A person can look dwarfed in a wide landscape or surrounded by buildings so use your zoom so you don't lose them in the frame. If you're using a camera phone which doesn't have an optical zoom use your feet to move you closer to your subject rather than using the digital zoom which can lower the quality of the shot. 

 

9. Focus Point

A shot needs a focal point otherwise your eyes will be left searching the image and they won't find anywhere to settle. You can have more than one focal point but make sure the point that's secondary doesn't fight your main focal point to be the centre of attention. Once you know what your main focal point is there are various compositional tricks you can perform which includes using various elements within the frame to draw the eye to one focus point, you can adjust your framing to make a more pleasing composition or zoom in to really focus on your subject, eliminating other items in the process.

 

10. Shoot Different Subjects

Many professional photographers focus on one type of photography, but this isn't something you need to do straight away. Experiment with various subjects, learning how each needs to be approached differently in the process. It'll also give you the chance to find out which you enjoy shooting the most so if you do want to start shooting more regularly, you'll have a particular subject you can work on perfecting.

Don't be afraid to take lots of shots either as getting out there and actually pressing the shutter button is the best way to learn. Do take the time to evaluate your work too so you know what needs to be improved and just as importantly, know what techniques work successfully. You can also ask other photographers, family members and friends for their feedback too as sometimes they'll see things you've missed. Finally, make sure you have fun and enjoy taking photos! 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Landscape photography has an intimidating reputation, built up by an industry of tutorials, workshops, books, and courses that treat it like a discipline requiring years of study. But this video makes a compelling case that most of that complexity is noise. 

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Getting white balance right in real estate interiors is harder than it looks. Competing light sources, colored walls, and reflective surfaces all pull your colors in different directions, and fixing it all globally in post rarely works. 

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There's been a lot of press about how the new MacBook Neo performs on one photo or video task or another, and largely the consensus has been that it can do a number of things, but not all things. Well, what does that mean in actual raw data? 

 

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Nikon Europe has introduced a free extended five-year warranty on all newly purchased NIKKOR Z mount lenses, offering photographers added confidence and long-term protection. The warranty applies to all Z mount lenses, including kits and teleconverters, purchased from authorised Nikon retailers, the Nikon Store, and Nikon Plazas across most European countries. This initiative highlights Nikon’s trust in the enduring quality of its NIKKOR lenses, built on more than 90 years of optical innovation.

 

From Nikon:

Nikon Europe announces an extended, free five-year warranty on all newly purchased NIKKOR Z mount lenses.

Purchasing a new NIKKOR Z mount lens now comes with added peace of mind, as the lens will be covered against faults that might occur within the first five years of ownership.1

The new warranty is applicable in most European countries2 and covers NIKKOR Z lenses purchased from authorised Nikon retailers, Nikon Store and Nikon Plazas in Europe.

All NIKKOR Z mount lenses are covered by the new warranty, including kit lenses and teleconverters. If a claim fulfils the conditions during the extended warranty period, the lens will be repaired free of charge by authorised Nikon technicians.

Customers simply need to register their NIKKOR Z lens product within 90 days of purchase via an easy online process and it will be covered for five years from the date of purchase.

Nikon has been designing and manufacturing NIKKOR lenses for more than 90 years, pushing innovation in optical science alongside a dedication to the highest possible quality products. This extended free warranty reflects Nikon's confidence in the enduring quality of NIKKOR lenses.

For more information, please visit the Nikon Europe website.

 

1 Terms and conditions apply

2 See terms and conditions for the full list of applicable countries

Shooting in low light is one of the most technically demanding situations in photography, and a handful of bad habits can quietly ruin your results before you ever open an editing program. Most of these mistakes are easy to fix once you know what to look for. 

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When you look out of your window and you see your lawn covered in morning dew, sparkling in the sunlight you need to get out of your PJs, pick up your camera and get outside to photograph it. If you can't face getting up quite so early you can try using a spray bottle on your plants and shrubbery as this will create the same kind of effect.

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1. Macro Lens Is A Must 

You'll need a macro lens as you're going to be working at close focusing distances but if you're a compact user you should switch to macro mode (usually a flower symbol on your mode dial) to let your camera know you're going to be working close to your subject).
 

2. Find Your Tripod 

If you have a tripod with a centre column that can be turned horizontally or upside down, set it up, otherwise, you might find a bean bag more useful. If you have one, use a cable release or remote release as even the slightest touch on the camera can cause enough camera shake to blur your image. Alternatively, a two-second self-timer gives you enough time to press the button and let go or, if your camera supports it, use your Smart Device to trigger the shutter.
 

3. Aperture Choices

A mid-range aperture will give you a decent depth of field, throwing the background out of focus while the subject stays ultra-sharp. Keep an eye on your shutter speed as you don't want a blurry photo. Do try a larger aperture too but if you find it blurs more of the shot then you intended, just change the size.
 

4. Focus On The Drop

Make sure your focus is on the drop(s) so you get a nice clear shot of them. You may have to sacrifice foreground sharpness as a blurry drop will just distract the viewer.
 

5. Refraction Photography

Dewdrops falling down blades of grass look great but another cool and simple trick is to get an image inside the dewdrop. To do this take another flower or grass blade and move it behind your subject until you can see it in your viewfinder. Do remember that everything you see is reversed in the dewdrop though so if you want to centre the object that's to the left you need to move it more to the right.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

For as far as I can recall, I have always been somewhat skeptical about using flashes for my personal work, specifically the casual, street-documentary style shooting that I tend to do whenever I simply feel like bringing a camera out. Ironically, when it comes to my commercial work, where everything is more controlled with purpose, I am not shy about using flashes to shape the lighting of the final image.  

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Recently, I got a chance to have a look at the brand-new Laowa Sunlight 2x FF Anamorphic Zoom Series and thought I'd share a thought or two. 

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