Photography News

From copyrighted light bulbs to illegal selfies, here are the strangest regulations governing your shutter button. Most photographers operate under a simple assumption: if your eyes can see it, your camera can capture it. Point, shoot, done. Nobody can tell you otherwise. Except they absolutely can. 

[Read More]

Autofocus is fast, reliable, and so baked into modern cameras that you probably never question how it’s tied to the shutter button. This argues that default setup quietly forces a trade you don’t have to accept once you start separating focus from exposure. 

[Read More]

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|320788|320788_1770192128.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to dke (Day 4 - Flower Photography).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

Frost Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|146271|146271_1769941497.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 2

Commute Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|162081|3906537[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 3

Glass Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|289105|3816361[/COMMENT_IMG]

  Day 5

Car Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|51474|51474_1770301465.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 6

Football Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|44488|44488_1770389116.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 7

Food Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|189602|3746570[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

Photography has never been cleaner, sharper, or more technically flawless. Paradoxically, it has never felt easier to hesitate before pressing the shutter or posting the image. 

[Read More]

Fog can turn a strong landscape into a flat sheet, even when the scene looked deep in person. The fix is rarely a single slider, and the right masking move in Lightroom can make fog read like real space instead of gray mush. 

[Read More]

The new Photoshop update adds adjustment layers that feel tailor-made for real estate edits, especially when a scene is flat and hazy. If you shoot homes, rentals, or interiors, the difference between “fine” and “booked” often comes down to controlled, believable separation in the sky, water, and key surfaces. 

[Read More]

The LUMIX S1II sits in a tricky spot: it has to satisfy stills, video, and paid work without forcing you into a slow, fragile setup. If you’ve been bouncing between systems trying to get speed, clean files, and dependable video in one body, this is the kind of camera that can end the search or expose a new compromise you didn’t expect. 

[Read More]

   

The idea of movement isn't usually a thought that first springs to mind when you try to describe what a landscape shot is. However, when you start to think of popular landscape topics such as waterfalls, rivers, trees, clouds and the sea, you suddenly realise movement, which makes shots more dynamic, crops up more often than you think.

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]

Slowing your shutter speeds can create a sense of movement in your landscape shots. Just remember you'll need to use a smaller aperture to limit the amount of light that reaches your camera's sensor. If you don't, you'll end up with a shot that's overexposed. If you find your shots are still a little on the light side, fit an ND filter to further reduce the amount of light going through your lens. For shots where you want to exaggerate the power/strength of your subject or for shots that have people/vehicles moving or birds in-flight, you'll need quicker shutter speeds, a steady hand and good panning technique all of which we'll look at later on.

  1. Waves

For shots of waves crashing against cliffs and sea walls you'll need a quick-ish shutter speed, around 1/125 should help you capture the power on display. Just remember, unless you want a soaking, to keep yourself and your kit out of the wave's reach. Have a lens cloth handy and remember to wipe your kit down thoroughly once you're back home.

For shots where the waves turn into a mass of soft, blue and white blur use exposures which are 5 seconds or more. If it's a particularly bright day make sure you have an ND filter to-hand and use the smallest aperture and ISO possible. If you want the waves to have a little more shape to them use a slightly shorter exposure. How short you go will depend on the amount of shape you want and how choppy the sea is on the day so you may end up experimenting with a few different exposures before you land on the one that gives you the shot you're after.

 

 

2. Waterfalls

We've covered waterfalls in a previous article so here are just a few quick tips to get you started. For a more in-depth look, take a look at our previous technique: Shooting waterfalls.

• What shutter speed you use will be determined by how much blur you want, the focal length you're using and the amount of light available.
• Pick an overcast day when you're going to be using longer exposures. Your shot is less likely to have contrast problems too when there's a touch of cloud cover.
• An ND filter can help you extend your exposure times while a Polarising filter will reduce the amount of glare/reflection coming off the water.
• Turn the waterfall's movement into a mass of blur - 1/8 sec longer
• Faster shutter speeds will enhance the power/force of the waterfall, freezing the movement of the water as it cascades and splashes on rocks.
• Have a go at photographing water bubbles.

 

  3. Clouds

Cloud formations can appear and vanish again even before you've thought about taking a shot so if you do spot an interesting one make sure you snap it straight away. Keep an eye on your histogram to make sure your shot doesn't have areas which are overexposed and if the formation is really spectacular cut some of the foreground out, moving the horizon down so the sky fills more of your shot. Use slower shutter speeds to blur the movement of the clouds and look out for trails left by planes too as the crisscrossing lines can make an interesting abstract shot.

 

4. Birds and People

If you want to capture birds in-flight you'll need a quick shutter speed, continuous autofocus and a good panning technique. As soon as you see a bird come into shot lock your focus on it straight away and follow it through the frame, panning even after you've taken your shot. To freeze the movement you'll need to use a shutter speed around 1/500sec but if you want to blur the movement of their wings try something slower around 1/30sec.

When it comes to people, how fast your shutter speed is will depend on what they're doing. For example, someone who's water skiing will be moving a lot quicker than someone rowing across a lake.

For more tips on panning and capturing people moving take a look at our articles:

• Panning tips
• Capture motion
• Shutter speeds explained

      5. Trees

Leaves blowing in the wind are an obvious way to capture movement in a forest but for something artier, try creating a drag landscape. For tips on how to do this take a look at our articles:

• Drag landscapes
• Drag landscapes in the woods

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Competition Forum

The internet has a long memory, and nowhere is that more apparent than in the used camera market. Cameras that launched to scathing reviews, forum outrage, and YouTube takedowns carry that baggage for years, even when the original criticisms have become largely irrelevant. The result is a fascinating opportunity for photographers who can separate genuine limitations from outdated grievances: cameras with professional image quality selling for a fraction of their original price because the collective hive mind decided they were failures half a decade ago. 

[Read More]

You can hike all day, reach a location with a clean view, and still walk away with nothing because you rushed the setup. This video is about building a repeatable process so the light doesn’t decide whether you get a usable frame. 

[Read More]

Whether you’re a die-hard football fan or just watching Super Bowl LX for the multi-million-dollar commercials and the halftime show, there is one thing we can all agree on: the sheer scale of the production is staggering. This weekend, Super Bowl LX kicks off in San Francisco, and Sony is bringing an insane mountain of gear to ensure every single moment is captured in high definition. 

[Read More]

Fast portrait primes for APS-C often force a compromise between price, build, and image quality. The Viltrox AF 56mm f/1.2 Pro aims to sidestep that trade-off by delivering flagship-level optics at a price that undercuts most competitors. But how big can APS-C glass go and still work for the system? 

[Read More]

A 24–105mm zoom that stays at f/2.8 the whole way is the kind of lens idea people talk about for years, then hesitate to buy the moment it exists. If you shoot weddings, events, portraits, or travel on a Canon RF body, this specific range can replace a two-lens routine, but only if the real-world tradeoffs work out. 

[Read More]

Choosing between Nikon’s three current 35mm Z-mount primes can quietly change how your portraits look, even when the framing stays the same. If you shoot people, travel, or weddings, the wrong 35mm can leave you fighting background texture, missed focus, or a bag that feels heavier every hour. 

[Read More]

Artificial images are moving into places that once depended on real shoots, real light, and real decisions, and that shift is already changing how work gets commissioned and valued. If you make images for clients or personal projects, the pressure to compete with fast, cheap AI output is no longer abstract. 

[Read More]

Be it a Sunday lunch you've cooked at home, a selection of groceries found on a stall or a collection of spices you've taken out of your kitchen pantry, food is something that's easily accessible which makes it a great subject for photographers. You can create still life pieces, get creative with props or just really focus in on the food item itself. Don't be afraid to experiment and remember to upload your fab food shots to the ePHOTOzine gallery or the competition forum to win top prizes.

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK] 

To get you thinking about food as a photographic subject, we've brought our food photography related pieces together so you can brush-up on your technique before raiding the fridge for interesting food items worth photographing.

  1. Food Photography: Top Tips For Instagram Food Photography Likes

 

Helge Kirchberger and 2-star Michelin-chef Jörg Bruch, with the help of the COOPH team, take you back to basics to show you how subtle changes can make all the difference in your food photos.

 

2. Seven Top Creative Ways To Use Coffee In Your Photos

 

You can eat coffee beans so we're rolling with this one! Coffee might be a lovely drink that powers you through the day but when the weather's a bit grey outside, it can also keep you warm indoors as you can focus your lens on beans and grains rather than fighting the chill outdoors. 

 

3. How To Take Awesome Travel Food Photography Shots

 

Instead of just capturing shots of family members in pools and on the beach, why not turn your attention to food photography and capture some mouth-watering images of the plates you're served and stalls you pass on trips. 

 

4. Serve Up Beautiful Food Photography With The Help Of Hugh Johnson

© Hugh Johnson

If you're one of the many astronomic photography fans who enjoy sharing the culinary delights online, you'll probably be interested in perusing this article with tips from renowned food photographer Hugh Johnson.  

 

5. Man Vs Food: The Difference Between Photographing People & Plates

 

Although my university training prepared me for portraits, still lifes, landscapes and anything else you can imagine, I’ve definitely noticed an increasing emphasis on food photography and have adapted and expanded my skills to capture Cuban sandwiches, crab Benedicts and vibrant vegetable platters. While many of the skills necessary for attractive human portraiture applies to food, there are also some key differences we’ll explore here. 

 

6. Food Photography Basics For Smartphone Photographers

 

Taking good food photos isn't as hard as you may think. In fact, with the right light and a few homemade accessories, even your smartphone can help you capture images that look good enough to eat.

 

7. Ten Top Tips For Taking Better Photos Of Food

 

Here we share 10 basic but essential tips to help you capture better photos of the food on your plate. If you're at a restaurant, generally, you'll find food is well presented so you don't have to worry about playing the role of a food technician, however at home, it's a different story. 

 

8. Food Photography Lighting Tips From Taylor Mathis

 

You don't need expensive lighting gear to take beautiful pictures of your food. Using the powers of the sun, you can create captivating and mouthwatering images.

 

9. Jamie Oliver And David Loftus' Food Photography Tips

 

Photographing food is a trend that has swept across social media sites over the past year, and the topic is a firm favourite with bloggers all over Europe, so how can you get the most out of your DSLR to make your food photos look good enough to eat, and impress your food-loving friends?

 

10. Creative Fruit Photography Tips & Tricks

 

Photographer Markus Pettersson has captured a series of vibrant still life images with his Hasselblad H5D-40 and he's put a pretty awesome tutorial together on how you can capture similar shots

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Competition Forum

Camera specifications have become reasonably standardized over the years, but lens specifications are a different animal entirely. Optical performance resists easy quantification, and manufacturers have learned to fill that void with impressive-sounding terminology that obscures more than it reveals. This guide cuts through the jargon to explain what each specification actually measures, when it genuinely affects image quality, and how to read between the lines when comparing options. 

[Read More]

 

When we stretch the concept of the superzoom full frame lens from 28-200mm, we end up with this fine looking Tamron 25-200mm. This is a significant advantage for those who require a wider field of view, whilst maintaining a very useful 200mm at the telephoto end. This is the 2nd Generation version of this lens. It looks good, balances well with the 42MP Sony A7R III used in this review, and the focal length range seems ideal for general purpose shooting, wildlife, landscapes and travel. The wide f/2.8 aperture at the 25mm end also bodes well for use in low light. Let's see if the lens lives up to its potential, both in the studio tests as well as the great outdoors.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Handling and Features

Weighing in at a modest 575g and measuring just 121.5mm x 76.2mm, the moisture sealed body sits well on the Sony A7R III. If we start our tour of the lens at the front, we have a provided petal lens hood that bayonets smoothly into place, with a positive click stop that ensures it stays put with no need for a retaining catch. Within the bayonet fitting is a conventional 67mm filter thread. Most of the Tamron mirrorless lenses utilise the same filter thread, useful in avoiding having to stock several sizes of filter or lens cap. The hood will be most efficient at 25mm, whilst avoiding any vignetting, and less so as we move towards the telephoto settings, but this cannot be helped, and it also has the very useful function of protecting the front of the lens against knocks. Regardless of flare reduction, there is a strong case for always using a lens hood.

 

 

There is a wide, easy to grip, zoom ring that is clearly marked with accurate settings of 25mm, 35mm, 50mm, 70mm, 100mm, 135mm and 200mm. The ring is smooth in operation and does extend the lens barrel, so there is some mass of lens to move. It will never be electronic-smooth as a consequence, but it is definitely well damped, a cut above the norm. A lock switch is provided just behind the ring but the lens showed little sign of extending whilst being carried. There is also an AF lock button at the opposite side of the barrel at the same point.

The final ring is slimmer, is electronic and is used for manual focus. All the usual Sony focus options are supported and these are selected via the camera menu.

Focusing is down to 0.16m (6.3”) at 25mm, for a maximum magnification of 1:1.9. or around half life size. At 200mm this becomes 0.8m (31.5”), for a maximum magnification of 1:3.9, or around one quarter life size. Whilst most current macro lenses focus to 1:1, this zoom lens focuses as close as vintage half life size macros traditionally would be expected to do. This is very useful and confirms the universal applications that it is aimed at.

 

 

Optical construction is 18 elements in 14 groups, coated using Tamron's BBAR-G2, the second generation of their Broad Band Anti-reflection coatings. The front element also has a Fluorine treatment to help repel dirt, grease and moisture. A series of internal seals completes the moisture resistant construction. The diaphragm comprises 9 blades and results is a nicely rounded aperture. This raises our expectation of some ultra smooth bokeh.

Last but certainly not least is a USB-C socket, used for connection to a smartphone and also on the PC version for updating the lens software. Tamron Lens Utility Software enables various control functions. Usefully, the AF lock button can also be programmed via this route to toggle between AF and MF.

In use, the lens behaves impeccably. AF via the VXD (Voice coil eXtreme-torque Drive) voice coil motor is fast, accurate and virtually silent. With the Sony body even focusing between bars of a cage is possible much of the time, something that many cameras and lenses can be totally defeated by. For universal use when travelling, this lens is just so versatile and so easy to use that it should cover almost every conceivable eventuality.

Now let's see how well things hold up in the technical tests.

 

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Performance

Sharpness is looked at first, and the images in general look crisp, colourful and have plenty of contrast. They look good, and for most users that totally fulfils what they might expect.

At 25mm, central sharpness is very good at f/2.8 and f/4, rising to excellent from f/5.6 all the way through to f/16. The edges are consistently very good all through the range, from f/2.8 to f/16.

At 70mm, central sharpness is very good from f/4.5 right through to f/16, just dropping to good at f/22. The edges are good at f/4.5, very good from f/5.6 to f/16 and good at f/22.

At 140mm, central sharpness is fair from f/5.6 to f/11, good at f/16 and f/22 and fair at f/32. The edges are fair right through the range from f/5.6 to f/32.

As with many wide range zoom lenses, the longest focal lengths drop off in sharpness, but the Tamron, given a small amount of Photoshop sharpening still delivers great looking nature shots even at 200mm and f/5.6. This is always the dilemma – some lenses are able to deliver the goods in the field but are not really designed for the closer distances of lens testing charts.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is very impressively under control throughout the range and further correction in software is unlikely to be necessary.

Distortion measures just -0.81% barrel at 25mm, +0.10% pincushion at 70mm and +0.12% pincushion at 140mm. This renders the lens suitable for copying and for architectural shots and is again very impressive, particularly so in a zoom lens.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is the smoothness of gradation in the out of focus areas in an image. This is an aesthetic judgement rather than a measurement, but we know attractive bokeh when we see it. Here we find really very beautiful, smooth out of focus backgrounds, relaxed and natural with not a trace of raggedness. 

The flare performance is also excellent, clearly the design, internal baffling and coatings are all combining to do an excellent job of suppressing internal reflections. 

Vignetting is very well controlled.

 

Aperture 25mm 70mm 140mm f/2.8 -1.8     f/4 -1.4   f/4.5   -1.1   f/5.6 -1.3 -1.1 -0.7 f/8 -1.3 -1 -0.6 f/11 -1.2 -1 -0.6 f/16 -1.2 -1 -0.5 f/22   -0.9 -0.4 f/32     -0.3

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]

Value For Money

The [AMUK]Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2|Tamron+25-200mm+f/2.8-5.6+Di+III+VXD+G2[/AMUK] lens is priced at £729.

There are no obvious alternatives that match the exact specification, but even looking at the lens in isolation, it looks terrific value for money.

 

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Verdict

The original 28-200mm lenses were a revelation in their day, offering incredible versatility and probably focusing closer than most alternatives as well. Quality and fine detail may have been less on the optical engineers' minds, as the technology of the day did have its limitations. Fast forward to today, though, and we can now see extended ranges such as this very fine 25-200mm from Tamron. Sharper, faster focusing, closer focusing and even more versatile at a very reasonable price point. What's not to like?

As with all lenses, it's important to understand what they are designed for, what they will do well and what they are not best suited for. This lens is a fantastic travel companion, with a wider than average field of view, focusing closer than most and with a fast, bright f/2.8 aperture. Tonal quality is excellent and images have punch and impact. At the longest focal lengths sharpness does fall off, as is almost always the case, but the lens still delivers sharp, punchy images well suited to wildlife, nature and portraiture.

In summary, a very fine lens that delivers very satisfying results and handles with consummate ease, all at a price that is impressively keen. Highly recommended.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Pros

• Good to excellent sharpness
• Minimal distortion
• Fast, accurate and virtually silent AF
• Excellent flare resistance
• CA well controlled
• Versatile extended zoom range
• Moisture and dust sealing
• Magnification 1:1.9 at 25mm
• Modest vignetting
• Beautiful bokeh
• Affordable pricing

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Cons

• Loses fine detail at longest focal lengths

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=5|R_performance=4.5|R_value=5|R_overall=4.5|A_level=4.5|A_text=Highly recommended – Punchy results from this easy to use and universally useful lens, all at a very keen price.|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

.borders { border: 1px solid #ccc !important; border-collapse: collapse; } .borders td,.borders tr { border: 1px solid #ccc !important; } .borders { border: 1px solid #ccc !important; border-collapse: collapse; } .borders td,.borders tr { border: 1px solid #ccc !important; }

                                                                                                                           

ePHOTOzine members can enjoy exclusive savings on PortraitPro 24 from Anthropics Technology.

Edit whole shoots in just minutes. Highly rated by leading industry publications, PortraitPro 24 is the world’s first intelligent retouching software, powered by advanced Generative AI and smart tools for fast, professional results.

 

"PortraitPro 24 takes the whole process that took hours, or was virtually impossible, and reduces it to just a few minutes, sometimes mere seconds per photo when editing greater volumes!"

SLR Lounge

 

Enhance your portrait work for pro-style portraits with powerful features:

 

Key New Features:

• New gender and age detector
• Mouth inpainting & teeth replacer
• Face recovery
• Skin and hair masks
• Glasses reflection remover

  Improved Workflow:

• Seamlessly switch between faces in group shots.
• Effortlessly share presets.
• Utilise a streamlined preset search box.
• Explore more image save options.
• (Exclusive to Studio Max) Apply multiple presets to each picture.

 

"This feature alone (Glasses Reflection Remover) would pay for the upgrade after repairing just a couple of shots spoiled by the reflections in a subject's glasses, mainly in time saving."
 

Professional Image-Maker

 

 

Download your free trial today and discover what PortraitPro can do for your portraits!

Buy PortraitPro 24 or upgrade at 50% off, plus enjoy an exclusive extra 20% off with the code EPJ26.

 

 

All PortraitPro purchases qualify for a FREE Anthropics software gift.

See Anthropics Bundles for further savings.

 

Being a landscape photographer usually consists of a set routine: check the weather apps, check PhotoPills, arrive an hour before golden hour to find your compositions, and shoot until the end of blue hour. 

[Read More]