Photography News

Getting into video production? Want to record a podcast? Maybe interview someone for a vlog? There are microphone solutions for all of these individual audio scenarios, but there isn’t any one handy solution that covers them all. Until now.

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Zoos and wildlife parks are great places to get up close with wildlife, but the fences and glass keeping us and the animals safe can cause a few problems for photographers.

 

Height Is An Issue

Fences often rise above eye level and the tops aren't in easy reach (for good reason) so you can't hold your camera up above it to take your shots. As a result, we often have to take photos with the cage in front of us but this doesn't mean the fence has to appear and as a result spoiling the shot.

Sometimes it's easy to capture fence-free shots as the gaps in the mesh are just big enough for a lens to be poked through, however, when it's not, you'll have to use a few other tricks to capture your wildlife shot. 

 

Close With Wide Apertures

One way is to get as close to the fence as possible and select a wider aperture. Then, line up your lens so it's over a gap or if they're too small, try and wait so the face of the animal you're photographing is in a gap. Once the animal has put some distance between them and the fence, take your shot. The fence will, hopefully, be thrown our of focus, thanks to the reduced depth-of-field, so you won't even notice it while your subject will be sharp. 

You may find that Auto Focus tries to focus on the fence rather than your subject so switch to manual focus to ensure your subject is sharp. 

 

Longer Lenses

If you are using a lens that doesn't have a particularly wide aperture then don't worry; you'll still be able to capture a mesh-free shot with a longer focal range. If you can't shoot through or throw the fence out of focus you can often clone it out later using an image editing program. 

 

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Meike has unveiled the MK-EFTL-C, delivering EF lens compatibility to L-mount cameras through its drop-in filter mount design, with autofocus support and filter functionality. The adapter supports autofocus and works with both PDAF and CDAF modes.

The adapter includes electronic contacts for aperture control and EXIF data transmission. It ships with a variable neutral density filter (ND3–ND500) and a clear UV filter. The metal-bodied unit weighs 105g with the ND filter installed.

 

Specifications

Model: MK-EFTL-C

SRP: USD $199.99

Front mount: EF(EF-S) lens

Rear mount: L-mount camera

Maximum diameter and length: 73 × 24.7 mm

Packing size: 88 × 65 × 88 mm

Autofocus: Supported

Focus modes: PDAF and CDAF

 

For more details, visit the Meike website.

Every photographer's journey starts with boundless enthusiasm and a camera, but most beginners unknowingly sabotage their progress with costly mistakes that could easily be avoided. These ten brutal truths about amateur photography will save you thousands of dollars, countless hours of frustration, and help you skip the painful learning curve that destroys so many creative aspirations.

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The conventional wisdom says you should stick with Sony or Canon when buying your first full frame camera. This advice might actually cost you money and limit your creative potential in ways you haven't considered.

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Here's something a little different to display your photos. It's the Aluratek ePaper frame. Photos look like printed photos, and this 13.3" Wi-Fi-connected frame can run for about a year after a charge through its built-in USB-C port.

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The Brightin Star 50mm f/0.95 lens turned a lot of heads when it first hit the market because of its extremely fast aperture and attractive price point. Here's a look at how it performs in the real world.

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The Canon RF 35mm f/1.4 L VCM promises significant upgrades if you're looking to step up from the popular RF 35mm f/1.8. Here's a look at what you can expect.

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If you've been considering a high-quality portrait lens without overspending, the Viltrox AF 85mm f/1.4 Pro FE lens could be exactly what you're looking for.

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  Every year for one weekend in August Ramsey and the people who visit take a step back in time and celebrate the 1940s. The event, which you can find more information about on the Ramsey 1940's weekend website, is a great place to take your camera to and you're also guaranteed to have some fun while you are there. If you can't get to Ramsey there are plenty of other events that take place right across the country.     1. Gear Suggestions

If you arrive before the crowds then a 50mm lens is perfect for capturing people in costume but when the masses arrive or if you like to have a little more versatility, pack a zoom lens that gives you wide to mid-range focal lengths. A tripod's always helpful, particularly if you're heading to the dance in the evening when the light will be lower. They can be a little clunky and can get in the way though so you may like the flexibility a monopod gives you instead. Flash may be handy in the evening, but you could just turn up your ISO slightly or pop your camera on a tripod and use slightly longer shutter speeds.
 

2. Picking A Subject

When you arrive you'll find plenty of people dressed in 1940s clobber and RAF uniforms who are perfect for a nostalgic portrait shot or two. Some people will be so fabulously dressed they'll just shout: 'photograph me' at you but make sure you take a good walk around to see who else is hiding among the vehicles and stalls. You could get a few candid snaps of the crowds as you do so too.

 

 

3. Ask If It's OK

When you do find your subject make sure you ask their permission and don't be in a hurry to photograph them where they stand as you could look back and realise you have a modern car or burger van ruining your shot. You can try and throw the ugly background out of focus but if you have the time, make the effort to chat to your subject and ask them to move somewhere that's more appropriate. You still may want to throw the background out of focus and leave all the attention on your subject, but at least the blurred objects and shapes will be more fitting to the era you're trying to capture. If you can, do take your time when you're looking through the viewfinder and pay particular attention to their costume. It's amazing how straightening a skirt or fastening up a button can make a big difference to the overall shot.

 

4. Capture Movement

If you hang around for the dance you'll need fast shutter speeds to freeze the action on the dance floor or put your camera on a tripod and slow your shutter speeds to blur the movement of the skirts/dresses as they spin around. There will also be plenty of candids off the dance floor such as to capture too. 
 

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Today, I’ll talk about three key reasons you might want to consider the NIKKOR Z 28-135mm f/4 PZ power zoom lens.

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Canon’s RF 24-105mm f/2.8 L IS USM Z lens has stirred plenty of interest with its big aperture, power zoom, and substantial price tag. But does it justify the investment?

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You don't need to spend thousands to capture magazine-worthy photos and television-worthy videos that rival expensive professional equipment. These 10 modern cameras (no DSLRs!) prove that exceptional image quality, advanced autofocus systems, and professional features are now accessible to photographers on any budget.

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For anyone who’s serious about capturing detailed, crisp images with smooth, beautiful backgrounds, lens choice can change everything. This lens looks like a fantastic option.

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Choosing the right 50mm lens can dramatically impact both image quality and day-to-day usability. The Canon RF 50mm f/1.4 L VCM lens has entered the scene promising high-end performance in a lighter package, raising questions about whether it's worth replacing the heavier but highly respected RF 50mm f/1.2 L.

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ePHOTOzine member Pete2453 earns a spotlight with his long exposure monochrome image, Abandoned, taken at the Pin Mill shipwrecks in Suffolk.

The shot shows strong control over exposure. Water and sky blur to a soft wash, creating contrast with the wreck’s clear, sharp form. The monochrome treatment simplifies the scene, allowing shape, texture, and tonal range to stand out. Composition works well—unevenly spaced wrecks balance the frame and add depth.

It’s a classic approach, executed with precision. The image feels calm, with technique that holds the mood without pulling focus.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

If you shoot weddings or events, you’ve likely hit the wall where 24mm just isn’t wide enough. Tight prep rooms, crowded dance floors, and sweeping venue shots demand a true ultra-wide that still works when you move in close.

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Zoom burst photography is a photography technique that is achieved by zooming your lens in or out whilst the exposure is being taken. It's a great technique for exaggerating movement or for just adding an abstract feel to an image. Colourful subjects or scenes with patterns work well as they help create a really striking zoom burst that's full of bright, colourful lines.

 

1. Equipment Check List

To get the desired effect, you'll need your zoom lens and a tripod, to keep the image steady, plus this will allow you to have your hands free to smoothly control the zoom. A zoom with a good range to play with will mean you can get a really even effect, with some nice long streaks guiding the eye through the image. You'll also need a remote or cable release to eliminate any shake caused by pressing the shutter. If you don't have one, then use the self-timer setting on your camera. Using the flash on your camera or an external flash gun can help to add sharpness and freeze the image too.

 

2. Get The Zoom Right

The key to success with this technique is to get the amount of zoom burst right. If the zoom is too obvious then it may disguise the subject. If you don't zoom enough, then the image won't have the desired effect. You don't want your exposure to be too long, otherwise, your shots will be overexposed, but it needs to be long enough to enable you to create the zoom effect.

To create the effect you can zoom in or out, most people choose to zoom out. Press the shutter and wait for a while, around half to three-quarters of the exposure should do it, and then you need to zoom out in a smooth and fast manner. Leaving the image to develop for half to three-quarters of the exposure beforehand allows some definition to be captured in the image before the zoom is added. Try somewhere between 1-3 seconds for your starting exposure length and extended if it's needed. If you can, it's worth locking the focus, too so it stays constant.

Use a small aperture and an ISO of 100 or 200 for the best results. If you find that your images come out overexposed, it's probably best not to make the exposure time shorter as this will make it more difficult to fit the zoom in. Fit a polarising filter or ND filter instead and try again.
 

3. Experiment & Try Again

It's then quick and easy to see on the screen if your attempt was successful. If it wasn't, you can try again straight away. Experiment with the shutter speed and zoom timing until you find something that works for you and your subject. You may find you need to crop the shot for better composition but as the vanishing point will be in the middle of the frame, this won't cause any problems.

To be different, why not zoom in, try a shorter zoom, experiment with city lights at night or rotate the lens to add circular shape to your lines? If one idea doesn't work just delete the image and try again.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

The question becomes: how does a photographer think? I don’t know how everyone else thinks, but I can tell you my process.

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Macro photography, especially at weddings, can mean juggling multiple lenses, sacrificing time, or struggling in tight spaces. That's where a versatile lens like the Canon RF 85mm f/2 Macro IS STM can come in handy, simplifying your work without sacrificing image quality.

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